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Innertube Porosity?



 
 
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  #21  
Old January 1st 06, 04:30 AM posted to rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.tech
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Default Innertube Porosity? = Le Cycle to the rescue (as usual)

On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 11:13:00 -0500, Paul Hobson wrote:

Sandy wrote:
Dans le message de ,
Paul Hobson a réfléchi, et puis a déclaré :

Someone wrote:

Sandy wrote:


From its November 2005 issue :

Winner overall : Décathlon butyl (1,5€)
Loser overall : Challenge latex (10€)


INDEFINITE PRONOUN ALERT!

What is "its"?


Look at the the subject line of your own post

(she's referring to Le Cycle)



Please do not tamper with my gender !


Sorry. The only Sandy I know in real life was a female.


Past tense "was?" Has Sandy changed?

Do I really want to know.

Ron
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  #22  
Old August 29th 17, 09:52 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Default Innertube Porosity?

Remove the valve, inject a very strong sugar/water solution, replace dust cap, spin the wheel to distribute the solution inside the tube, drain the solution as much as possible, replace valve and inflate.
  #23  
Old August 29th 17, 04:55 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Default Innertube Porosity?

On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 at 1:52:10 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Remove the valve, inject a very strong sugar/water solution, replace dust cap, spin the wheel to distribute the solution inside the tube, drain the solution as much as possible, replace valve and inflate.


All you have to do is use latex tubes. These have so low a porosity that you only have to pump up your tires slightly one day a week after the initial settling in period.
  #28  
Old August 30th 17, 08:03 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
SMS
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Default Innertube Porosity?

On 8/29/2017 9:24 AM, Joerg wrote:

snip

I use super-thick tubes from Kenda and Sunlite. No more flats, pumping
required only every 6-8 weeks and it has only dropped from 110psi to
75psi. It's great, I need to work a bit longer on a diagnostic case,
miss the Fedex cut-off for truck pick-up, strap the package to the road
bike and put the coals on. Zero prep time for the ride.


Schwalbe tubes have very low porosity. Add air about every 4 weeks.
https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/tubes/all. The thick tubes
also work well but personally I'd rather have better tires to avoid
punctures, and use regular tubes. For bicycles where reliability is
important, get the Schwalbe tires with the puncture protection.

Latex is lighter, but more fragile, more porous, less safe, more
difficult to install, and more expensive.

Blowouts due to overheated rims are more common with latex if you're
doing long steep descents with a lot of heavy braking. Of course if you
have disc brakes this is irrelevant.

The big hassle with latex is that it's much more porous than butyl so
you'll be adding air more often. You basically have to pump up your
tires daily.

"Loss of pressure should also be considered with regards to latex as it
is porous, meaning air leaks out of it.

I tested this and found that a 25mm tyre would go from 100 to roughly 85
psi overnight. This means you should be prepared to inflate your tyres
before every ride."

The bottom line is that unless you're a racer, and really need the
lighter weight of latex, avoid latex tubes at all costs.

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  #29  
Old August 30th 17, 09:12 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Default Innertube Porosity?

On Wednesday, August 30, 2017 at 12:03:32 PM UTC-7, sms wrote:
On 8/29/2017 9:24 AM, Joerg wrote:

snip

I use super-thick tubes from Kenda and Sunlite. No more flats, pumping
required only every 6-8 weeks and it has only dropped from 110psi to
75psi. It's great, I need to work a bit longer on a diagnostic case,
miss the Fedex cut-off for truck pick-up, strap the package to the road
bike and put the coals on. Zero prep time for the ride.


Schwalbe tubes have very low porosity. Add air about every 4 weeks.
https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/tubes/all. The thick tubes
also work well but personally I'd rather have better tires to avoid
punctures, and use regular tubes. For bicycles where reliability is
important, get the Schwalbe tires with the puncture protection.

Latex is lighter, but more fragile, more porous, less safe, more
difficult to install, and more expensive.

Blowouts due to overheated rims are more common with latex if you're
doing long steep descents with a lot of heavy braking. Of course if you
have disc brakes this is irrelevant.

The big hassle with latex is that it's much more porous than butyl so
you'll be adding air more often. You basically have to pump up your
tires daily.

"Loss of pressure should also be considered with regards to latex as it
is porous, meaning air leaks out of it.

I tested this and found that a 25mm tyre would go from 100 to roughly 85
psi overnight. This means you should be prepared to inflate your tyres
before every ride."

The bottom line is that unless you're a racer, and really need the
lighter weight of latex, avoid latex tubes at all costs.


I don't know where that came from but I expected to have to refill the tires every ride like the butyl tubes and that was NOT the case. I have had the bike sitting there for 5 days and no pressure loss at all as measured with my Silca professional pump. For the first week or so there was loss but it simply stopped.
 




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