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#21
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Clipless pedals have invisible clips.
Has Look discovered a way to bend light to make their stuff invisible? I *must* have a pair *immediately! Cheers, helen s ;-) --This is an invalid email address to avoid spam-- to get correct one remove fame & fortune **$om $ --Due to financial crisis the light at the end of the tunnel is switched off-- |
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#22
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Anyway, what is clip vs clipless?
You say you use "normal old flat pedals". On some such pedals, you can get a little metal or plastic "cage" or "cup" effect that is at the front of the pedal. You place your toe in this, with the ball of your foot on the platform pedal. This is a pedal with a toe*clip* Some toeclips have a strap which you can tighten to secure your foot to the pedal. Clipless pedals have a system where on the sole of the shoe you wear to cycle is a cleat. The cleat clips into the pedal so your foot is securely held without the need for a toeclip. Similar to the way a skiboot clips into the binding on a ski. As clipless pedals don't have a *toeclip* to keep you foot on the pedal, but a *cleat* on the sole of the shoe, then this is why they are called clipless pedals. But yes, you do clip in and clip out of your clipless pedals ;-) There are various systems of clipless pedals available... Loook, spd, Time, Wellgo, Eggbeaters... all variation on a theme and it's individual choice as to which system you find best for you. I changed to clipless from normal pedals because I was given a pair of Look shoes (with cleats) for free. So I went out and got a set of Look pedals - basic ones, not the ultra expensive type. They took a bit of getting used to - I did the standard forgetting to unclip before the bike stopped, which resulted in me finding the one positive of having a fat rear end - padding in a fall ;-) Clipping in and out qucikly became second nature and I would not willingly go back to "normal" pedals. Clipless are simply better at allowing you to pedal efficiently. As you effectively pull on the upstroke of the pedal action, the need to push on the downstroke is reduced - so better pedalling for less effort. Certainly my knees noticed the difference. Cheers, helen s --This is an invalid email address to avoid spam-- to get correct one remove fame & fortune **$om $ --Due to financial crisis the light at the end of the tunnel is switched off-- |
#23
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"Badger_South" wrote
Think about it, though. You get an inexpensive pedal and an inexpensive shoe and it might work for you, but for most newbies, I say get solid middle-of-the-line shoes, be prepared to pay 50-80 bucks. You -do- get what you pay for. You'll presumably be using these for 20-30 days per month and you want something that's durable, functional and comfortable. You go cheap on the shoe and I'd wonder if you'd not regret that. You also want them to look cool. Again, spending a lot of time in them. On the pedals, don't get the very bottom of the line, go up one and get the SPD M520. Solid performers and something that you're gonna be depending on quite heavily. Wellgo is a brand of Taiwanese pedals that is re-labeled by several brands (Performance, Nashbar, Ritchey). Wellgo pedals are generally very good, and half the price of Shimano equivalent. Wellgo "SPD-style" pedals come with a variety of cleats. Some are interchangeable with Shimano, some not. I've found that the pedals with the "98A" cleat usually are (both ways). I have a few sets of "bottom-of-the-line" Shimano (515). I think I paid $32 last year. They're fine, and considering they come with cleats (most pedals do), which cost $20 separately, they were quite the deal. Perfectly good Wellgo pedals are often sold as low as $20. Road use is simple compared to off-road, anything that works well for MTB is fine for the road, spending a little more for MTB pedals might be a good idea, since the application is much more demanding. |
#24
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On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 13:05:39 GMT, "Peter Cole"
wrote: "Badger_South" wrote Think about it, though. You get an inexpensive pedal and an inexpensive shoe and it might work for you, but for most newbies, I say get solid middle-of-the-line shoes, be prepared to pay 50-80 bucks. You -do- get what you pay for. You'll presumably be using these for 20-30 days per month you want something that's durable, functional and comfortable. You go cheap on the shoe and I'd wonder if you'd not regret that. You also want them to look cool. Again, spending a lot of time in them. On the pedals, don't get the very bottom of the line, go up one and get the SPD M520. Solid performers and something that you're gonna be depending to quite heavily. Wellgo is a brand of Taiwanese pedals that is re-labeled by several brands (Performance, Nashbar, Ritchey). Wellgo pedals are generally very good, and half the price of Shimano equivalent. Wellgo "SPD-style" pedals come with a variety of cleats. Some are interchangeable with Shimano, some not. I've found that the pedals with the "98A" cleat usually are (both ways). I have a few sets of "bottom-of-the-line" Shimano (515). I think I paid $32 last year. They're fine, and considering they come with cleats (most pedals do), which cost $20 separately, they were quite the deal. Perfectly good Wellgo pedals are often sold as low as $20. Road use is simple compared to off-road, anything that works well for MTB is fine for the road, spending a little more for MTB pedals might be a good idea, since the application is much more demanding. Good to know, and if you're experienced at this, it's silly -not- to shop for deals. (note I said 'for most newbies'). Just wanted the noobs to realize it's not that difficult to go to clipless, find a shoe, and be happy, and that going 'inexpensive' had pitfalls. If you're an experienced cyclist and you're taking your noob buddy in to get shoes, and help with the selection, then sure, try some rebranded stuff. I'm quite surprised, but shouldn't be, that I'm having absolutely zero problems, no knee pain, nothing. Granted I've not taken this system on a very long ride, and that may be when problems show up. I'm planning on getting in a modest 30 miles or more this weekend on the flats to see how things go, and then move up the distance. But I'm loving them on the foothills! I'm getting so much power, I'm almost skipping the back wheel when sprinting uphill and quickly accelerating. -B |
#25
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On Thu, 4 Nov 2004 08:43:00 +0000 (UTC), "PK"
wrote: wrote in message ... PK what? writes: I'm reminded of that joke every time the subject of clipping into clipless pedals crops up! I don't know what crowd you mix with but around here we step into the pedals and engage the cleat. You've got to admit, it is daft terminology! The only pedals with clips are clipless while clipped pedals have straps and no clips... I think you've got your terms confused. Toe clips support the strap and prevent the pedal from rolling forward when pedaling standing. You would have noticed that when a clip breaks as they often did and your foot rolls off the front of the pedal still strapped in... clip dangling and tinkling on the pavement as it hangs from the strap. Today, plastic clips last a bit longer but are still a pain. Jobst Brandt I know all that Jobst, but the terminology only makes sense if you know the history. Show someone who has seen neither a clipless pedal and one with cage and straps and ask which is clipless! When a newbie arrives on here and says "Which foot should i put in the clip first?" - someone always asks if they are talking about toe straps (clipped) or pedals the shoe clips into (clipless). I was just remarking that it is very much like tring to explain cricket to someone who has never seen the game. EG From an online advice site: The shoe cleats required for clipless pedals are basically shaped pieces of metal [Snip].......Basically, the best way to begin is to clip one foot (the foot you normally begin with) into its pedal.... pk I've seen cricket and still don't get it. Runs or wickets? Which one is important? No, don't answer. I really don't want to go there. I'm still trying to understand clips. |
#26
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#27
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#28
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dgk wrote:
Ok, I've seen guys get of those "clipless" pedals and they clunk around in those shoes. So if I go this route then I have to walk around in these things until I can get to my office and change back to sneakers (my normal cycling gear)? There are different kinds of clipless -- SPDs have flat cleats that don't interfere with your ability to walk. Look into those if you're serious about clipless and put off by clunky road cleats. -km -- Only cowards fight kids -- unidentified Moscow protester http://community.webshots.com/user/blackrosequilts proud to be owned by a yorkie |
#29
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"Badger_South" wrote
Just wanted the noobs to realize it's not that difficult to go to clipless, find a shoe, and be happy, and that going 'inexpensive' had pitfalls. But that's my point, I don't think it does have "pitfalls". Spend more if you want, but the cheap stuff works fine, particularly for entry-level road use. I'm quite surprised, but shouldn't be, that I'm having absolutely zero problems, no knee pain, nothing. Granted I've not taken this system on a very long ride, and that may be when problems show up. Knee problems do only show up after significant mileage. My experience has been that setting toe-in angle of the cleat is necessary, float isn't. But I'm loving them on the foothills! I'm getting so much power, I'm almost skipping the back wheel when sprinting uphill and quickly accelerating. You're getting more force. Any pedal that keeps your foot attached allows you to pull up, achieving more force. Consider for a moment, if you haven't already, what happens if that pedal should release when you're pulling up hard. Pulling up is not necessary or desirable outside of racing. It's a *really* bad idea when you're a clipless newb. |
#30
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"dabac" wrote in message
... Wrote: Rotation release came to bicycling from skiing where step-in engagement and rotation release was introduced years earlier Came from skiing? Unless you mean the very basic principle of push down to engage - twist to disengage I find it very hard to seen a carryover between skiing and cycling in this case. And at the push-and-twist level I think an explanation along the lines of parallell evolution is more probable. After all, how many realistic alternative methods are there to engage/disengage your foot from the pedal? Look, the French ski binding manufacturer, introduced the first clipless pedal. The problem is very similar, as is the solution. |
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