Need help wiring bike light, please.

Jim Smith wrote in message ...
(Lewis Campbell) writes:


You can solder it, just try not to get it too hot. The standard thing
to do is to hold the lead close to the body with something like needle-nose
pliers while soldering.

I would imagine the device is connected across the terminals of the bulb,
so a loose connection would not cause the light to go out, but a defective
device could. Try removing it and see if the problem goes away.

www.mouser.com has the exact replacement:

http://tinyurl.com/5dumz

but you have to buy 5000 at a time.
A likely substitution would be this one:

http://tinyurl.com/6hyww

It is a little bit larger physically, but if it fits it would work.
No minimum order on that one, and it only costs 66 cents.

******************************************

Thanks for your help.

When I go to this link:- http://tinyurl.com/5dumz I can see the
' BZ04-6V4B ' but when I go to the other link:-
http://tinyurl.com/6hyww I don't understand how this can be the same
thing.

What am I missing here?

Kind regards.

Lewis.

****************************************8

Jim Smith wrote in message ...
(Lewis Campbell) writes:


You can solder it, just try not to get it too hot. The standard thing
to do is to hold the lead close to the body with something like needle-nose
pliers while soldering.

I would imagine the device is connected across the terminals of the bulb,
so a loose connection would not cause the light to go out, but a defective
device could. Try removing it and see if the problem goes away.

www.mouser.com has the exact replacement:

http://tinyurl.com/5dumz

but you have to buy 5000 at a time.
A likely substitution would be this one:

http://tinyurl.com/6hyww

It is a little bit larger physically, but if it fits it would work.
No minimum order on that one, and it only costs 66 cents.

******************************************

Thanks for your help.

When I go to this link:- http://tinyurl.com/5dumz I can see the
' BZ04-6V4B ' but when I go to the other link:-
http://tinyurl.com/6hyww I don't understand how this can be the same
thing.

What am I missing here?

Kind regards.

Lewis.

****************************************8

(Lewis Campbell) writes:

Jim Smith wrote in message ...
(Lewis Campbell) writes:


You can solder it, just try not to get it too hot. The standard thing
to do is to hold the lead close to the body with something like needle-nose
pliers while soldering.

I would imagine the device is connected across the terminals of the bulb,
so a loose connection would not cause the light to go out, but a defective
device could. Try removing it and see if the problem goes away.

www.mouser.com has the exact replacement:

http://tinyurl.com/5dumz

but you have to buy 5000 at a time.
A likely substitution would be this one:

http://tinyurl.com/6hyww

It is a little bit larger physically, but if it fits it would work.
No minimum order on that one, and it only costs 66 cents.

******************************************

Thanks for your help.

When I go to this link:- http://tinyurl.com/5dumz I can see the
' BZ04-6V4B ' but when I go to the other link:-
http://tinyurl.com/6hyww I don't understand how this can be the same
thing.

What am I missing here?

Hard to say.

The device, the transient voltage suppressor, is connected across the terminals
of the light bulb. Below some voltage determined by properties of the device,
it looks like a very large resistor, for larger voltages it looks like a short
circuit. So what happens is, when the voltage across the light bulb rises
to more than the set point the device starts conducting, this causes the voltage
to drop, so the device stops conducting, this couses the voltage to rise, so
the device starts to conduct. The overall effect is that, above a certain voltage,
the device looks like a resistor which automgically adjusts its resistance to keep
the voltage across it constant.

The important thing when replacing this thing is to get one that
operates at the same voltage and that can handle the load. It needs to
be bidirectional because most generators are AC. I just picked one
that looked like it was about the same voltage that they had in stock
Click on the link on the mouser page labeled "Manufacture Data Sheet,"
and even if you don't understand all of it you will see that they are
very similar devices.

Hmmm, when I looked a little closer I noticed that they changed the
way they name these things, so what used to be called a 6.4 volt is
now called a 7.5 volt. looks like the one at:

http://tinyurl.com/5rz5d

is actually a little closer to the one you have.

(Lewis Campbell) writes:

Jim Smith wrote in message ...
(Lewis Campbell) writes:


You can solder it, just try not to get it too hot. The standard thing
to do is to hold the lead close to the body with something like needle-nose
pliers while soldering.

I would imagine the device is connected across the terminals of the bulb,
so a loose connection would not cause the light to go out, but a defective
device could. Try removing it and see if the problem goes away.

www.mouser.com has the exact replacement:

http://tinyurl.com/5dumz

but you have to buy 5000 at a time.
A likely substitution would be this one:

http://tinyurl.com/6hyww

It is a little bit larger physically, but if it fits it would work.
No minimum order on that one, and it only costs 66 cents.

******************************************

Thanks for your help.

When I go to this link:- http://tinyurl.com/5dumz I can see the
' BZ04-6V4B ' but when I go to the other link:-
http://tinyurl.com/6hyww I don't understand how this can be the same
thing.

What am I missing here?

Hard to say.

The device, the transient voltage suppressor, is connected across the terminals
of the light bulb. Below some voltage determined by properties of the device,
it looks like a very large resistor, for larger voltages it looks like a short
circuit. So what happens is, when the voltage across the light bulb rises
to more than the set point the device starts conducting, this causes the voltage
to drop, so the device stops conducting, this couses the voltage to rise, so
the device starts to conduct. The overall effect is that, above a certain voltage,
the device looks like a resistor which automgically adjusts its resistance to keep
the voltage across it constant.

The important thing when replacing this thing is to get one that
operates at the same voltage and that can handle the load. It needs to
be bidirectional because most generators are AC. I just picked one
that looked like it was about the same voltage that they had in stock
Click on the link on the mouser page labeled "Manufacture Data Sheet,"
and even if you don't understand all of it you will see that they are
very similar devices.

Hmmm, when I looked a little closer I noticed that they changed the
way they name these things, so what used to be called a 6.4 volt is
now called a 7.5 volt. looks like the one at:

http://tinyurl.com/5rz5d

is actually a little closer to the one you have.