Spoke threads exposed on new wheel - Safe?

The 2mm showing on the left is trivial but the right needs
to be redone. Just curious but what lengths did you use?
Normally rights are 2mm shorter than lefts. BRBR

Just for info, on OCR rims, I use 1mm difference.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Anyone have a good
technique for measuring ERD? BRBR

Wheelsmith rods...

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

daveornee wrote in message ...
It is a pain to get the wheel built and find out the spokes aren't the
correct length. The Ritchey PRO Trekker Girders I have measure ERD 605
mm. I used 294 mm right and 296 mm left. The spoke length came in fine
on my Shimano XTR and DURA ACE hubs.

Mine are 32 spoke 3X. Where did you find the 36 hole version?

My LBS ordered them for ~$30. Eyelets not available in the 36 hole version.

Dave

On Sat, 01 Nov 2003 01:52:20 GMT Josh Gatts
wrote:


The OP has the advantage of an easy of way of calculating what size
spokes to use for his rebuild: whatever size he used + the length of
exposed thread!

Rather than concentrate on the exposed thread, which is only part of
the unengaged thread, he should measure from the other side of the
spoke nipple. Measure how far down below the spoke head the end of the
spoke stops. You can do this rather easily with a bit of wire, or a
paper clip, or even screw in a loose spoke from above and count turns.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

"Jim Adney" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 01 Nov 2003 01:52:20 GMT Josh Gatts
wrote:


The OP has the advantage of an easy of way of calculating what size
spokes to use for his rebuild: whatever size he used + the length of
exposed thread!

Rather than concentrate on the exposed thread, which is only part of
the unengaged thread, he should measure from the other side of the
spoke nipple. Measure how far down below the spoke head the end of the
spoke stops. You can do this rather easily with a bit of wire, or a
paper clip, or even screw in a loose spoke from above and count turns.


You could also measure the length of a nipple to the base of the slot (N),
the length of the threading (T) on a spoke, and the length of exposed thread
(E). If your existing spoke is length L, you buy spokes of length L + N - T
+ E. Heh heh.

It's fun to come up with these things, but in reality a couple of unengaged
threads aren't the end of the world (6 *exposed* threads, which is what the
OP was talking about, are more than I would accept, though.) I would
personally just do the easiest thing (the way I originally recommended,
IMHO), and maybe add 1mm to account for the fact that the threads begin a
little way into the nipple.

I just noticed that Peter Chisholm has recommended just replacing the nips
with 16mm. That's probably the best & cheapest solution, although it may
look a little goofy.

Thanks for the idears.

--Josh

Josh Gatts writes:

The OP has the advantage of an easy of way of calculating what
size spokes to use for his rebuild: whatever size he used + the
length of exposed thread!

Rather than concentrate on the exposed thread, which is only part
of the un-engaged thread, he should measure from the other side of
the spoke nipple. Measure how far down below the spoke head the end
of the spoke stops. You can do this rather easily with a bit of
wire, or a paper clip, or even screw in a loose spoke from above
and count turns.

You could also measure the length of a nipple to the base of the
slot (N), the length of the threading (T) on a spoke, and the length
of exposed thread (E). If your existing spoke is length L, you buy
spokes of length L + N - T + E. Heh heh.

It's fun to come up with these things, but in reality a couple of
un-engaged threads aren't the end of the world (6 *exposed* threads,
which is what the OP was talking about, are more than I would
accept, though.) I would personally just do the easiest thing (the
way I originally recommended, IMHO), and maybe add 1mm to account
for the fact that the threads begin a little way into the nipple.

When threads are exposed, they just show that they are insufficiently
engaged because threads in the nipple do not start until a few mm
inside the nipple shaft. Spokes should be visible at the nipple head
and protrude at least to be close to the bottom of the screw driver
slot.

I just noticed that Peter Chisholm has recommended just replacing
the nips with 16mm. That's probably the best & cheapest solution,
although it may look a little goofy.

That won't help much, the threads in most longer nipples not being any
longer than the short ones. It will only be a cover-up, not an
improvement in thread engagement.

Jobst Brandt

wrote in message
...
Josh Gatts writes:
It's fun to come up with these things, but in reality a couple of
un-engaged threads aren't the end of the world (6 *exposed* threads,
which is what the OP was talking about, are more than I would
accept, though.) I would personally just do the easiest thing (the
way I originally recommended, IMHO), and maybe add 1mm to account
for the fact that the threads begin a little way into the nipple.

When threads are exposed, they just show that they are insufficiently
engaged because threads in the nipple do not start until a few mm
inside the nipple shaft. Spokes should be visible at the nipple head
and protrude at least to be close to the bottom of the screw driver
slot.

I just noticed that Peter Chisholm has recommended just replacing
the nips with 16mm. That's probably the best & cheapest solution,
although it may look a little goofy.

That won't help much, the threads in most longer nipples not being any
longer than the short ones. It will only be a cover-up, not an
improvement in thread engagement.


Thanks for the clarifications and corrections. In particular, I didn't know
about the threading in long nipples.

--Josh

One of the first wheels I built also came up short on the spoke threads, and
several spokes were showing about 5-6 threads.

I stress relieved this wheel using leather gloves and none of the nipples
failed, so I just took that as an indication that the wheel was safe, since
the most stress the nipple threads would ever be under would be when I
stress relieved.

That wheel has proven reliable.

Ed Chait

or (B): simply measure the depth of the hole from the bead diameter,
622-mm for a 700c. don't forget to 2x it.

"Josh Gatts" wrote in message ...
"Jim Adney" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 01 Nov 2003 01:52:20 GMT Josh Gatts
wrote:


The OP has the advantage of an easy of way of calculating what size
spokes to use for his rebuild: whatever size he used + the length of
exposed thread!

Rather than concentrate on the exposed thread, which is only part of
the unengaged thread, he should measure from the other side of the
spoke nipple. Measure how far down below the spoke head the end of the
spoke stops. You can do this rather easily with a bit of wire, or a
paper clip, or even screw in a loose spoke from above and count turns.


You could also measure the length of a nipple to the base of the slot (N),
the length of the threading (T) on a spoke, and the length of exposed thread
(E). If your existing spoke is length L, you buy spokes of length L + N - T
+ E. Heh heh.

it's 56-TPI so 6 exposed will be 6/56 inches too long.