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what are splinned hubs? (And cranks)



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 15th 05, 08:59 AM
American_uni
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Default what are splinned hubs? (And cranks)


Hi, I never started a thred before, but I have a question so here it
goes.
I have an old shwinn 24 inch that I had for a long time since I was a
teenager, and I just started to ride it again after not riding it for a
few years.
I'm thinking about getting a new unicycle and I keep hearing about
these splinned cranks and hubs.
I know that they are supposed to be stronger, but how much stronger are
they? Does it make a big difference?
Also, does any one know how thay are constructed?
Thank you.
It's nice to see all the unicyclists out there on the internet.


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  #2  
Old February 15th 05, 09:33 AM
markf
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the search function is your friend. and on the profile and onza websites
i think they discuss this.


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  #3  
Old February 15th 05, 10:11 AM
Klaas Bil
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markf wrote:
*the search function is your friend. and on the profile and onza
websites i think they discuss this. *


But type "splined" not "splinned".

Klaas Bil


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  #4  
Old February 15th 05, 05:37 PM
Mikefule
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The difference between "splined" and "tapered" is to do with how the
crank is attached to the hub.

On a normal square tapered hub, the ends of the axle (spindle) have
square prejections which poke into square sockets cast in the ends of
the cranks. The crank is then held in place with a nut (or, in some
cases, a bolt). The advantages: it's cheap, easy, and does the job.
The disadvantages: they can work loose. The force fo the pedaling is
concentrated on the edges of the square taper, and this can result in
wear and tear.

On a splined hub, the end of the axle (spindle) is shaped like a cog,
with lots of teeth (or "splines"). The crank is shaped to fit these
splines. This is more expensive, harder to make, abut spreads the load
better, making for a stronger and more durable set up.


--
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Everyone should be fatuous for 15 minutes.
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  #5  
Old February 15th 05, 07:00 PM
TheObieOne3226
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OMG REPOST!!!

Yo Homie it's like this. There be 3 major types of crank to axle
interfaces: Cottered, Square Taper, and splizined.

COTTERED:[/b]

[image:
HTTP://WWW.CLASSICRENDEZVOUS.COM/IMA.../TA_COT1L.JPG]

I'LL LET MY MAN SHELDON BROWN HANDLE THIS ONE:

[image: HTTP://IMG89.EXS.CX/IMG89/221/SHELDON26WS.JPG]



THE AXLES AND CRANK HOLES ARE ROUND. THE AXLES HAVE A GROOVE IN THEM. A
WEDGE, CALLED A COTTER, SLIPS IN THERE TO KEEP THE CRANK STILL.

THE COTTERS ARE THIN LITTLE PIECES OF METAL THAT TAPER. THEY WEAR OUT
AND HAVE TO BE REPLACED. SOMETIMES THEY SHEAR IN HALF AND BAD TIMES.
DON'T GET THOSE.

[b]SQUARE TAPER:

Axle:
[image: http://www.unicycle.co.nz/images/shop/HubSuzue1.jpg]

Cranks:

[image: http://www.unicycle.co.nz/images/shop/cranks.jpg]

This was the standard in the bike industry for many years and is still
the standard in the unicycle industry. Many bikes still use this as
well. The axle is a square peice of metal that tapers (thinner on the
outside). This allows you to press a crank (which has the same taper on
the inside) on to the axle by using a bolt. This system is reasonably
strong. Problems exist in the maintenance. The cranks cannot be removed
very often, since each installation removes material from the axle. This
will eventually wear down your axle. On bikes it screws up your
chainline. Also, if someone rides on a loose crank, the axle and crank
turn into round useless things never to be useful again. If installed
properly the first time, this is a good system.

SPLIZINED!!!

Axle
[image:
http://www.bikersclub78.org/pedalato...C_ISIS_BB.jpg]

Crank
[image:
http://www.onshan.com.hk/images/Comp...III---096.jpg]

A more recent development in the bike industry and even moreso in
unicycles, splined axles are totally the way of the future dude. They're
like mega awesome. The axle has grooves on it. The inside of the crank
has a matching pattern (although different companies make different
patterns, because unicyclists are dumb and don't use ISIS yet) and they
slide together all nice like. It's great, thats all you need to know.
Buy some. And then bitch that they aren't ISIS.


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  #6  
Old February 15th 05, 07:10 PM
johnfoss
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That was a great description from Obie! But it leaves one question for
me now... what's ISIS, and what separates it from other types?

Cotterless is still the standard for the majority of the bicycle
industry, and all it needs. But bikes don't put as much wear & tear on
the crank/axle interface, so they don't need an improvement. Splined
parts are used on bikes that get more punishment, such as high-end BMX,
Trials and mountain bikes. Those take a lot more pounding, though it
might be argued that our constant back-and-forth torque puts even more
strain on unicycle axles.


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  #7  
Old February 15th 05, 07:25 PM
TheObieOne3226
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johnfoss wrote:
*That was a great description from Obie!*



Thanks. I got a new idea a while back. We see the same questions every
week or two, so why not answer them once fairly well and then just copy
everything the next time we see the question?

johnfoss wrote:
*But it leaves one question for me now... what's ISIS, and what
separates it from other types?*



ISIS is the new standard in bicycle splined bottom brackets. All ISIS
components are interchangeable, since all ISIS bb's are the same
diameter and flute pattern. Same with cranks. So if you've got a bike,
you can use a truvative bb and raceface cranks etc.

This would be great for unicycles, since right now each hub has about 3
crank lengths. Also, this would allow use of many many different cranks
already available to the bike industry. One potential problem is that
ISIS spindles have a much larger diameter than is used on unicycles.
However, this also means extra strength.

johnfoss wrote:
*But bikes don't put as much wear & tear on the crank/axle inte are
used on bikes that get more punishment, such as high-end BMrface, so
they don't need an improvement. Splined partsX, Trials and mountain
bikes.*



Right. Unicycles put a ton more stress on axles, since whenever we do
anything we are basically putting stress downward on both cranks, which
makes the axle want to twist. This causes a lot of sheared and deformed
axles. On bikes, the axle floats freely in bearings, so the stresses
aren't nearly as bad. My mod has a square taper axle, and many do for
weight considerations, since they hold up as long as the cranks are
installed properly and you don't switch them out very much.


--
TheObieOne3226

'SWAT Gallery' (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/SWAT)
'SWAT webpage' (singlewheeledattackteam.1hwy.com)

"Obie is definately a trend setter, I got in to unicycling because of
him, and came here because of him" - KJ-52

"try not to annoy the great Obie, for he is better than us." - Murde
Mental
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  #8  
Old February 15th 05, 07:54 PM
Gilby
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TheObieOne3226 wrote:
*Thanks. I got a new idea a while back. We see the same questions
every week or two, so why not answer them once fairly well and then
just copy everything the next time we see the question?*



I created a 'new forum' (http://tinyurl.com/4fwtd) for this purpose.
Feel free to add your "repost" in there as an article.


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  #9  
Old February 15th 05, 07:58 PM
TheObieOne3226
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Gilby wrote:
*I created a 'new forum' (http://tinyurl.com/4fwtd) for this purpose.
Feel free to add your "repost" in there as an article. *




Perfect. Good job, I'll clean it up a little and add some stuff, then
put it there. One potential problem is that the article section is going
to be used for quite some time, so IMG tags could become broken, which
means everything in there should probably be attachments.


--
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'SWAT Gallery' (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/SWAT)
'SWAT webpage' (singlewheeledattackteam.1hwy.com)

"Obie is definately a trend setter, I got in to unicycling because of
him, and came here because of him" - KJ-52

"try not to annoy the great Obie, for he is better than us." - Murde
Mental
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