Good News/Bad News

So the good news-

I got my '75 Peugeot PX-10 back from the painters (R&E Cycles -
http://rodcycle.com ) today, and it's just gorgeous.

It was white originally, ( http://wirtznet.net/1974PX10LE.jpg ) but in
1987, I repainted it, and added some braze-ons, to look like the then-
current model, which turned out to be the last year it was made. That
was light blue with the orange & yellow decals Peugeots had those days.
( http://wirtznet.net/1987.jpg )

In recent years, I'd grown to regret changing the bike's look so
drastically, and was happy to chance upon a set of the original decals
on Andrew Muzi's website ( http://www.yellowjersey.org/peudecal.html ).
I wasn't too big on white, though. Then, I saw on Sheldon's site (
http://sheldonbrown.org/px7.html ) that a few years earlier, the PX-10
had been available in the same metallic blue as the UO-8, and that's
what I went for.

So here it is, in all its glory - http://wirtznet.net/2006.jpg


Now, for the bad news-

I'd bought a new Veloce crank and Phil Wood Bottom Bracket to go with it
(it's all new parts...I actually ride this bike), and while waiting for
the frame to come back, I'd bolted the arms on the BB. When I went to
unscrew the bolts to install the crank, the drive-side one was being
awfully difficult to get off. I thought it was the loc-tite that came
sprayed on the bolt. I used a short piece of pipe to get a little more
leverage on the 8mm allen wrench, AND THE HEAD OF THE BOLT BROKE OFF.

This bottom bracket has zero miles on it, and I'm wondering what to do.
I used my dremel to grind some flats on the bolt, but it still won't
budge, and the corners just round. I tried heating the spindle and icing
the bolt. Neither helped.

Should I give up? Would it be cost-effective to send it back to Phil and
have the spindle replaced, or would that cost more than a whole new
unit? I have no idea whether it was the spindle threads that were bad or
the bolt, so I'm guessing it wouldn't be covered under warranty. I
bought the BB from Harris, so would Sheldon or Art have any advice?

Anyway, I'll get the bike going one way or another, but I'd really hate
to chuck a brand new Phil Wood.

-Hank

Hank Wirtz writes:

So you broke your new Phil Wood bottom bracket just to have an
excuse to "out" your new PX-10 frame repaint, didn't you ?? For
shame, for shame ....

I'd take it to a professional machine shop and have them fix it.
Probably cost $20 and they will probably slot the bolt or something
and the bolt will be toast. Don't mess with the bolt any more by
yourself. Afterwards I can sell you a new pair of bolts for only $85,
one dollar cheaper than campy charges for a right-side bolt....

- Don (grin) Gillies
San Diego, CA

Donald Gillies wrote:
Hank Wirtz writes:

So you broke your new Phil Wood bottom bracket just to have an
excuse to "out" your new PX-10 frame repaint, didn't you ?? For
shame, for shame ....

I'd take it to a professional machine shop and have them fix it.
Probably cost $20 and they will probably slot the bolt or something
and the bolt will be toast. Don't mess with the bolt any more by
yourself. Afterwards I can sell you a new pair of bolts for only $85,
one dollar cheaper than campy charges for a right-side bolt....

- Don (grin) Gillies
San Diego, CA

A set of Campagnolo crank bolts is $20 for the metioned crank.

Hank Wirtz wrote:
So the good news-

I got my '75 Peugeot PX-10 back from the painters (R&E Cycles -
http://rodcycle.com ) today, and it's just gorgeous.

It was white originally, ( http://wirtznet.net/1974PX10LE.jpg ) but in
1987, I repainted it, and added some braze-ons, to look like the then-
current model, which turned out to be the last year it was made. That
was light blue with the orange & yellow decals Peugeots had those days.
( http://wirtznet.net/1987.jpg )

In recent years, I'd grown to regret changing the bike's look so
drastically, and was happy to chance upon a set of the original decals
on Andrew Muzi's website ( http://www.yellowjersey.org/peudecal.html ).
I wasn't too big on white, though. Then, I saw on Sheldon's site (
http://sheldonbrown.org/px7.html ) that a few years earlier, the PX-10
had been available in the same metallic blue as the UO-8, and that's
what I went for.

So here it is, in all its glory - http://wirtznet.net/2006.jpg


Now, for the bad news-

I'd bought a new Veloce crank and Phil Wood Bottom Bracket to go with it
(it's all new parts...I actually ride this bike), and while waiting for
the frame to come back, I'd bolted the arms on the BB. When I went to
unscrew the bolts to install the crank, the drive-side one was being
awfully difficult to get off. I thought it was the loc-tite that came
sprayed on the bolt. I used a short piece of pipe to get a little more
leverage on the 8mm allen wrench, AND THE HEAD OF THE BOLT BROKE OFF.

This bottom bracket has zero miles on it, and I'm wondering what to do.
I used my dremel to grind some flats on the bolt, but it still won't
budge, and the corners just round. I tried heating the spindle and icing
the bolt. Neither helped.

Should I give up? Would it be cost-effective to send it back to Phil and
have the spindle replaced, or would that cost more than a whole new
unit? I have no idea whether it was the spindle threads that were bad or
the bolt, so I'm guessing it wouldn't be covered under warranty. I
bought the BB from Harris, so would Sheldon or Art have any advice?

Anyway, I'll get the bike going one way or another, but I'd really hate
to chuck a brand new Phil Wood.

-Hank

Send it back to Phil....ask for Brent, I'll bet they'll make it well
for nuthin' grease onto crank bolts is a good idea BTW-

On Wed, 25 Jan 2006 01:09:02 -0600, Hank Wirtz
wrote:

...When I went to
unscrew the bolts to install the crank, the drive-side one was being
awfully difficult to get off. I thought it was the loc-tite that came
sprayed on the bolt. I used a short piece of pipe to get a little more
leverage on the 8mm allen wrench, AND THE HEAD OF THE BOLT BROKE OFF.

This bottom bracket has zero miles on it, and I'm wondering what to do.
I used my dremel to grind some flats on the bolt, but it still won't
budge, and the corners just round. I tried heating the spindle and icing
the bolt. Neither helped.

I agree with the advice about sending it back to Phil. That bolt was
defective at the very least, and the chances are good that the threads
on the inside of the spindle are now galled or otherwise damaged.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

"Donald Gillies" wrote in message
...

So you broke your new Phil Wood bottom bracket just to have an
excuse to "out" your new PX-10 frame repaint, didn't you ?? For
shame, for shame ....


Oh, I didn't need an excuse...I was looking forward to posting pix of it
fully assembled, but that'll have to wait, dammit.

"Hank Wirtz" wrote: Oh, I didn't need an excuse...I was looking forward to
posting pix of it fully assembled, but that'll have to wait, dammit.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
No you don't. You can fix it in Photoshop.

Hank Wirtz wrote:
I got my '75 Peugeot PX-10 back from the painters (R&E Cycles -
http://rodcycle.com ) today, and it's just gorgeous.
-snip-
http://wirtznet.net/1974PX10LE.jpg
http://wirtznet.net/1987.jpg
http://www.yellowjersey.org/peudecal.html
http://sheldonbrown.org/px7.html
http://wirtznet.net/2006.jpg
I'd bought a new Veloce crank and Phil Wood Bottom Bracket to go with it
(it's all new parts...I actually ride this bike), and while waiting for
the frame to come back, I'd bolted the arms on the BB. When I went to
unscrew the bolts to install the crank, the drive-side one was being
awfully difficult to get off. I thought it was the loc-tite that came
sprayed on the bolt. I used a short piece of pipe to get a little more
leverage on the 8mm allen wrench, AND THE HEAD OF THE BOLT BROKE OFF.

This bottom bracket has zero miles on it, and I'm wondering what to do.
I used my dremel to grind some flats on the bolt, but it still won't
budge, and the corners just round. I tried heating the spindle and icing
the bolt. Neither helped.

Should I give up? Would it be cost-effective to send it back to Phil and
have the spindle replaced, or would that cost more than a whole new
unit? I have no idea whether it was the spindle threads that were bad or
the bolt, so I'm guessing it wouldn't be covered under warranty. I
bought the BB from Harris, so would Sheldon or Art have any advice?

Anyway, I'll get the bike going one way or another, but I'd really hate
to chuck a brand new Phil Wood.

Don't panic. Others have walked this path before you.

When a bolt head snaps off, a good portion of the tension on
the thread is released. Hold the spindle, bolt stump down,
in a vise and drill from the other side. Once your drill
bit catches, it will spin the stump right out.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

"A Muzi" wrote in message
...

Don't panic. Others have walked this path before you.

When a bolt head snaps off, a good portion of the tension on the thread is
released. Hold the spindle, bolt stump down, in a vise and drill from the
other side. Once your drill bit catches, it will spin the stump right
out.


Alas, the spindle is not hollow in the middle.

Thanks, though!

-HW

Hank Wirtz wrote:
"A Muzi" wrote in message
...

Don't panic. Others have walked this path before you.

When a bolt head snaps off, a good portion of the tension on the thread is
released. Hold the spindle, bolt stump down, in a vise and drill from the
other side. Once your drill bit catches, it will spin the stump right
out.


Alas, the spindle is not hollow in the middle.

It will be if you follow that procedure.