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Dropout blues - rear wheel pulling out



 
 
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  #1  
Old August 1st 05, 03:54 AM
SuperFly
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dropout blues - rear wheel pulling out

Gday,
I have an older italian steel frame which I just got second hand and
manage to keep pulling the rear wheel out of the dropouts. The dropouts
are almost parallel to the chain line which probably doesn't help.
Anyway, I read thru previous posts and the comments seem to be
distilled to

1. ensure the axle isn't protruding thru the dropouts preventing QR
binding properly
2. use a steel nutted QR such as shimano as they bind better than the
non steel alloy ones.
3. insert a binding washer ( a serrated washer ) between frame and
dropouts
4. score the dropouts as a means of last resort
5. use track axle/nuts

I have some questions regarding these and a couple of other things.


1. I have mavic cosmic elite hubs/wheelset. My LBS reckons they're
"good wheels which are designed to handle the QR being jacked up as
tight as you can get it". I read elsewhere that overtightening QR's can
cause compression of the bearings and other equally painful sounding
ailments. Any solution will require me jacking the QR up very tight so
the q is will I be damaging my hub in the process?

2. do track axles/nuts actually hold the wheel in place any better than
a quick release? I so, will this put extra pressure on my hub ala
question 1?

3. if i wanted to score the dropouts (eek) how should this be done?

4. will inserting the washers change the rear spacing and affect
shifting? If so can i adjust for this simply by adjusting the DR limit
screws or is it more complex than that?

5. is the wise options just to kiss my ( ideal barring the wheel
falling off thing) frame goodbye, and look for a different less life
threatening one?

Appreciate any thoughts you might have.

Happy flaming,
Will

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  #2  
Old August 1st 05, 04:07 AM
Mike Jacoubowsky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dropout blues - rear wheel pulling out

1. I have mavic cosmic elite hubs/wheelset. My LBS reckons they're
"good wheels which are designed to handle the QR being jacked up as
tight as you can get it". I read elsewhere that overtightening QR's can
cause compression of the bearings and other equally painful sounding
ailments. Any solution will require me jacking the QR up very tight so
the q is will I be damaging my hub in the process?


Will: I'm not a big fan of the Mavic QRs; my guess is that you'll find
better results if you replace the rear one with a conventional Shimano (or
Campy) style. The problem isn't just the mating surfaces being steel vs
aluminum or serrated vs smooth, but the way the mechanism works. Give it a
try before pulling hair out on all the other options.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"SuperFly" wrote in message
oups.com...
Gday,
I have an older italian steel frame which I just got second hand and
manage to keep pulling the rear wheel out of the dropouts. The dropouts
are almost parallel to the chain line which probably doesn't help.
Anyway, I read thru previous posts and the comments seem to be
distilled to

1. ensure the axle isn't protruding thru the dropouts preventing QR
binding properly
2. use a steel nutted QR such as shimano as they bind better than the
non steel alloy ones.
3. insert a binding washer ( a serrated washer ) between frame and
dropouts
4. score the dropouts as a means of last resort
5. use track axle/nuts

I have some questions regarding these and a couple of other things.


1. I have mavic cosmic elite hubs/wheelset. My LBS reckons they're
"good wheels which are designed to handle the QR being jacked up as
tight as you can get it". I read elsewhere that overtightening QR's can
cause compression of the bearings and other equally painful sounding
ailments. Any solution will require me jacking the QR up very tight so
the q is will I be damaging my hub in the process?

2. do track axles/nuts actually hold the wheel in place any better than
a quick release? I so, will this put extra pressure on my hub ala
question 1?

3. if i wanted to score the dropouts (eek) how should this be done?

4. will inserting the washers change the rear spacing and affect
shifting? If so can i adjust for this simply by adjusting the DR limit
screws or is it more complex than that?

5. is the wise options just to kiss my ( ideal barring the wheel
falling off thing) frame goodbye, and look for a different less life
threatening one?

Appreciate any thoughts you might have.

Happy flaming,
Will



  #3  
Old August 1st 05, 04:18 AM
jim beam
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dropout blues - rear wheel pulling out

SuperFly wrote:
Gday,
I have an older italian steel frame which I just got second hand and
manage to keep pulling the rear wheel out of the dropouts.


use campy or shimano closed cam skewers. much better mechanism allowing
higher, more consistent application of clamping force. they don't allow
slip.

The dropouts
are almost parallel to the chain line which probably doesn't help.
Anyway, I read thru previous posts and the comments seem to be
distilled to

1. ensure the axle isn't protruding thru the dropouts preventing QR
binding properly
2. use a steel nutted QR such as shimano as they bind better than the
non steel alloy ones.
3. insert a binding washer ( a serrated washer ) between frame and
dropouts
4. score the dropouts as a means of last resort
5. use track axle/nuts

I have some questions regarding these and a couple of other things.


1. I have mavic cosmic elite hubs/wheelset. My LBS reckons they're
"good wheels which are designed to handle the QR being jacked up as
tight as you can get it". I read elsewhere that overtightening QR's can
cause compression of the bearings and other equally painful sounding
ailments. Any solution will require me jacking the QR up very tight so
the q is will I be damaging my hub in the process?

2. do track axles/nuts actually hold the wheel in place any better than
a quick release? I so, will this put extra pressure on my hub ala
question 1?

3. if i wanted to score the dropouts (eek) how should this be done?

4. will inserting the washers change the rear spacing and affect
shifting? If so can i adjust for this simply by adjusting the DR limit
screws or is it more complex than that?

5. is the wise options just to kiss my ( ideal barring the wheel
falling off thing) frame goodbye, and look for a different less life
threatening one?

Appreciate any thoughts you might have.

Happy flaming,
Will


  #4  
Old August 1st 05, 05:15 AM
Neal
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dropout blues - rear wheel pulling out


"SuperFly" wrote in message
oups.com...
Gday,
I have an older italian steel frame which I just got second hand and
manage to keep pulling the rear wheel out of the dropouts. The dropouts
are almost parallel to the chain line which probably doesn't help.
Anyway, I read thru previous posts and the comments seem to be
distilled to

1. ensure the axle isn't protruding thru the dropouts preventing QR
binding properly
2. use a steel nutted QR such as shimano as they bind better than the
non steel alloy ones.
3. insert a binding washer ( a serrated washer ) between frame and
dropouts
4. score the dropouts as a means of last resort
5. use track axle/nuts

I have some questions regarding these and a couple of other things.


1. I have mavic cosmic elite hubs/wheelset. My LBS reckons they're
"good wheels which are designed to handle the QR being jacked up as
tight as you can get it". I read elsewhere that overtightening QR's can
cause compression of the bearings and other equally painful sounding
ailments. Any solution will require me jacking the QR up very tight so
the q is will I be damaging my hub in the process?

2. do track axles/nuts actually hold the wheel in place any better than
a quick release? I so, will this put extra pressure on my hub ala
question 1?

3. if i wanted to score the dropouts (eek) how should this be done?

4. will inserting the washers change the rear spacing and affect
shifting? If so can i adjust for this simply by adjusting the DR limit
screws or is it more complex than that?

5. is the wise options just to kiss my ( ideal barring the wheel
falling off thing) frame goodbye, and look for a different less life
threatening one?

Appreciate any thoughts you might have.

Happy flaming,
Will



I had the same problem when I upgraded the wheels and other components on my
1978 Gios. The newer quick releases don't work on horizontal dropouts. I
reinstalled my Campy skewers and that solved the problem immediately.

Neal


  #5  
Old August 1st 05, 07:24 AM
Zog The Undeniable
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dropout blues - rear wheel pulling out

SuperFly wrote:

Gday,
I have an older italian steel frame which I just got second hand and
manage to keep pulling the rear wheel out of the dropouts. The dropouts
are almost parallel to the chain line which probably doesn't help.
Anyway, I read thru previous posts and the comments seem to be
distilled to

1. ensure the axle isn't protruding thru the dropouts preventing QR
binding properly
2. use a steel nutted QR such as shimano as they bind better than the
non steel alloy ones.
3. insert a binding washer ( a serrated washer ) between frame and
dropouts
4. score the dropouts as a means of last resort
5. use track axle/nuts

I have some questions regarding these and a couple of other things.


1. I have mavic cosmic elite hubs/wheelset. My LBS reckons they're
"good wheels which are designed to handle the QR being jacked up as
tight as you can get it". I read elsewhere that overtightening QR's can
cause compression of the bearings and other equally painful sounding
ailments. Any solution will require me jacking the QR up very tight so
the q is will I be damaging my hub in the process?

2. do track axles/nuts actually hold the wheel in place any better than
a quick release? I so, will this put extra pressure on my hub ala
question 1?

3. if i wanted to score the dropouts (eek) how should this be done?

4. will inserting the washers change the rear spacing and affect
shifting? If so can i adjust for this simply by adjusting the DR limit
screws or is it more complex than that?

5. is the wise options just to kiss my ( ideal barring the wheel
falling off thing) frame goodbye, and look for a different less life
threatening one?


Use an old steel-handled Shimano skewer and ensure the cam is lubricated
with a drop of oil.
  #6  
Old August 1st 05, 03:53 PM
Alex Rodriguez
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dropout blues - rear wheel pulling out

In article .com,
says...

1. I have mavic cosmic elite hubs/wheelset. My LBS reckons they're
"good wheels which are designed to handle the QR being jacked up as
tight as you can get it". I read elsewhere that overtightening QR's can
cause compression of the bearings and other equally painful sounding
ailments. Any solution will require me jacking the QR up very tight so
the q is will I be damaging my hub in the process?


Adjust the bearing play so that they are a bit loose. Then when you tighten
the QR, it will take up the play but not cause binding. It is a trial and
error process, but can be easily done.

2. do track axles/nuts actually hold the wheel in place any better than
a quick release? I so, will this put extra pressure on my hub ala
question 1?


Yes. No. A QR compresses the whole axle assembly. A nut just squeezes betwen
the axle locknut and the end nut.

3. if i wanted to score the dropouts (eek) how should this be done?


No idea.

4. will inserting the washers change the rear spacing and affect
shifting? If so can i adjust for this simply by adjusting the DR limit
screws or is it more complex than that?


limit screw adjustments.

5. is the wise options just to kiss my ( ideal barring the wheel
falling off thing) frame goodbye, and look for a different less life
threatening one?


Keep trying, it will hold when you get the right combination.
----------
Alex

  #7  
Old August 1st 05, 05:46 PM
Tom Ace
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dropout blues - rear wheel pulling out

SuperFly wrote:

The dropouts
are almost parallel to the chain line which probably doesn't help.


Bike shops have tools to check the dropout alignment
and to adjust it by cold setting (that is, bending).

I'd make sure the dropout alignment is correct (that is,
their faces parallel to the central plane of the frame).


Tom Ace

  #8  
Old August 1st 05, 08:22 PM
Phil, Squid-in-Training
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dropout blues - rear wheel pulling out

Adjusting the bearings and then tightening the **** out of the
quick-release is definitely the best solution. I have a steel-framed
singlespeed that didn't have good bite with the locknut serrations.
It took me a decent crash when my chain derailed to figure that one
out.

I use a old-school steel-handled Shimano QR and I have to yank on it
pretty hard to get it off. Whatever you do, don't use any of the small
late-model Specialized skewers. They're crap.

Phil

  #9  
Old August 1st 05, 08:30 PM
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dropout blues - rear wheel pulling out

SuperFly wrote:
Gday,
I have an older italian steel frame which I just got second hand and
manage to keep pulling the rear wheel out of the dropouts. The dropouts
are almost parallel to the chain line which probably doesn't help.
Anyway, I read thru previous posts and the comments seem to be
distilled to

1. ensure the axle isn't protruding thru the dropouts preventing QR
binding properly
2. use a steel nutted QR such as shimano as they bind better than the
non steel alloy ones.
3. insert a binding washer ( a serrated washer ) between frame and
dropouts
4. score the dropouts as a means of last resort
5. use track axle/nuts

I have some questions regarding these and a couple of other things.


1. I have mavic cosmic elite hubs/wheelset. My LBS reckons they're
"good wheels which are designed to handle the QR being jacked up as
tight as you can get it". I read elsewhere that overtightening QR's can
cause compression of the bearings and other equally painful sounding
ailments. Any solution will require me jacking the QR up very tight so
the q is will I be damaging my hub in the process?

2. do track axles/nuts actually hold the wheel in place any better than
a quick release? I so, will this put extra pressure on my hub ala
question 1?

3. if i wanted to score the dropouts (eek) how should this be done?

4. will inserting the washers change the rear spacing and affect
shifting? If so can i adjust for this simply by adjusting the DR limit
screws or is it more complex than that?

5. is the wise options just to kiss my ( ideal barring the wheel
falling off thing) frame goodbye, and look for a different less life
threatening one?

Appreciate any thoughts you might have.

Happy flaming,
Will



http://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

  #10  
Old August 1st 05, 09:52 PM
Ned Mantei
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dropout blues - rear wheel pulling out

In article .com,
"SuperFly" wrote:

Gday,
I have an older italian steel frame which I just got second hand and
manage to keep pulling the rear wheel out of the dropouts. The dropouts
are almost parallel to the chain line which probably doesn't help.


Try a drop of oil on the cam of the quick release. It can bind and
prevent proper tightening of the QR.

(Concerning other question: Adjust bearings a bit loose, such that
tightening the QR compresses the axle enough to take up the play and
give a very modest pre-load.)

--
Ned Mantei
Zurich, Switzerland
 




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