creaking noise when right crank is pushed hard

Hi - i recently got a Trek 7.1 hybrid from a friend. it is second hand
and has had a fair life.

When i peddle hard, i get a creaking sort of noise just on the right
crank. It is most apparent on the highest (i mean largest) front cog
and smallest rear cog. It occurs in the pushing phase of peddling, not
as the right crank comes back around as i push on the left crank. I
can also hear/feel it when i am on the largest front cog but smallest
but-one rear cog. But much less so. Speed of crank rotation does not
seem to affect it.

It does not sound or feel like the peddle or crank are knocking
against anything.


I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it but, i had the bike
upturned the other day to check the gear cabling adjustments. When i
rotated (by hand) the cranks and the rear wheel got some real speed
up, it did not rotate 'true'. I mean, the rear of the bike vibrated
quite a bit (maybe just the energy in the rotation) but also it looked
like the rear gear cassette was rotating around a v slightly different
axis to the wheel itself). Not sure how worried i should be about
this!


Apologies if this is hard to decipher as i am not bike expert. I'm
just trying to work out if this is something i can fix myself,
requires a professional, and how much it might cost to rectify.

thanks.

On Jan 29, 1:44 pm, wrote:
Hi - i recently got a Trek 7.1 hybrid from a friend. it is second hand
and has had a fair life.

When i peddle hard, i get a creaking sort of noise just on the right
crank. It is most apparent on the highest (i mean largest) front cog
and smallest rear cog.

http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html

My guess: saddle or seat clamp needs grease and tightening, could be a
dozen other things.

On Jan 29, 2:44 pm, wrote:
Hi - i recently got a Trek 7.1 hybrid from a friend. it is second hand
and has had a fair life.

When i peddle hard, i get a creaking sort of noise just on the right
crank. It is most apparent on the highest (i mean largest) front cog
and smallest rear cog. It occurs in the pushing phase of peddling, not
as the right crank comes back around as i push on the left crank. I
can also hear/feel it when i am on the largest front cog but smallest
but-one rear cog. But much less so. Speed of crank rotation does not
seem to affect it.

It does not sound or feel like the peddle or crank are knocking
against anything.

I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it but, i had the bike
upturned the other day to check the gear cabling adjustments. When i
rotated (by hand) the cranks and the rear wheel got some real speed
up, it did not rotate 'true'. I mean, the rear of the bike vibrated
quite a bit (maybe just the energy in the rotation) but also it looked
like the rear gear cassette was rotating around a v slightly different
axis to the wheel itself). Not sure how worried i should be about
this!

Apologies if this is hard to decipher as i am not bike expert. I'm
just trying to work out if this is something i can fix myself,
requires a professional, and how much it might cost to rectify.

thanks.

I hope landotter is right and I'm wrong, for your sake, but I'm
thinking bottom bracket. Sheldons site is still a very useful tool
for dealing with that, but if you strike out with landotters
suggestions you may check the bottom bracket.

It's my understanding that the wheel being out of true would refer to
the rim wobbling in relation to the hub, not the cassette wobbling on
the hub. The hub and cassette being very slightly off could just be
the loose tolerances of inexpensive equipment. I wouldn't stress over
it. If the rim itself is out of true enough that it bothers you,
becomes noticeable or rubs the brake pads I'd true the wheel up, but
otherwise you're probably good.

Sounds like you're going to be able to do it yourself if you want to
take the time and learn a little as you go. I treat Sheldons site as
my cycle repair bible, and have learned to overtake MANY projects that
way. Good luck to you, and come back when you're done and let us know
what you did and how it works out.

Dan

Dan

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=98 Wrote:
Hi - i recently got a Trek 7.1 hybrid from a friend. it is second hand
and has had a fair life.

When i peddle hard, i get a creaking sort of noise just on the right
crank. It is most apparent on the highest (i mean largest) front cog
and smallest rear cog. It occurs in the pushing phase of peddling, not
as the right crank comes back around as i push on the left crank. I
can also hear/feel it when i am on the largest front cog but smallest
but-one rear cog. But much less so. Speed of crank rotation does not
seem to affect it.

It does not sound or feel like the peddle or crank are knocking
against anything.


I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it but, i had the bike
upturned the other day to check the gear cabling adjustments. When i
rotated (by hand) the cranks and the rear wheel got some real speed
up, it did not rotate 'true'. I mean, the rear of the bike vibrated
quite a bit (maybe just the energy in the rotation) but also it looked
like the rear gear cassette was rotating around a v slightly different
axis to the wheel itself). Not sure how worried i should be about
this!


Apologies if this is hard to decipher as i am not bike expert. I'm
just trying to work out if this is something i can fix myself,
requires a professional, and how much it might cost to rectify.

thanks.
Check out the Park Tools site section about creaking drive chain:



http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=98



What you are experiencing with the high speed vibration and wobble is
"normal" and I doubt that it is any part of the problem. Of course,
having perfectly balanced wheel assemblies and precise rotation, is
desirable.


--
daveornee

When i peddle hard, i get a creaking sort of noise just on the right
crank. It is most apparent on the highest (i mean largest) front cog
and smallest rear cog. It occurs in the pushing phase of peddling, not
as the right crank comes back around as i push on the left crank. I
can also hear/feel it when i am on the largest front cog but smallest
but-one rear cog. But much less so. Speed of crank rotation does not
seem to affect it.

I suspect it wouldn't take long for a shop to run down a few noises on your
bike. Unfortunately, noises come in layers... you get rid of one noise, and
find out it was masking another.

If you want to try and run down things yourself, check out this page on our
website-
www.ChainReaction.com/noises.htm

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA


wrote in message
...
Hi - i recently got a Trek 7.1 hybrid from a friend. it is second hand
and has had a fair life.

When i peddle hard, i get a creaking sort of noise just on the right
crank. It is most apparent on the highest (i mean largest) front cog
and smallest rear cog. It occurs in the pushing phase of peddling, not
as the right crank comes back around as i push on the left crank. I
can also hear/feel it when i am on the largest front cog but smallest
but-one rear cog. But much less so. Speed of crank rotation does not
seem to affect it.

It does not sound or feel like the peddle or crank are knocking
against anything.


I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it but, i had the bike
upturned the other day to check the gear cabling adjustments. When i
rotated (by hand) the cranks and the rear wheel got some real speed
up, it did not rotate 'true'. I mean, the rear of the bike vibrated
quite a bit (maybe just the energy in the rotation) but also it looked
like the rear gear cassette was rotating around a v slightly different
axis to the wheel itself). Not sure how worried i should be about
this!


Apologies if this is hard to decipher as i am not bike expert. I'm
just trying to work out if this is something i can fix myself,
requires a professional, and how much it might cost to rectify.

thanks.

wrote:
Hi - i recently got a Trek 7.1 hybrid from a friend. it is second hand
and has had a fair life.
When i peddle hard, i get a creaking sort of noise just on the right
crank. It is most apparent on the highest (i mean largest) front cog
and smallest rear cog. It occurs in the pushing phase of peddling, not
as the right crank comes back around as i push on the left crank. I
can also hear/feel it when i am on the largest front cog but smallest
but-one rear cog. But much less so. Speed of crank rotation does not
seem to affect it.
It does not sound or feel like the peddle or crank are knocking
against anything.
I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it but, i had the bike
upturned the other day to check the gear cabling adjustments. When i
rotated (by hand) the cranks and the rear wheel got some real speed
up, it did not rotate 'true'. I mean, the rear of the bike vibrated
quite a bit (maybe just the energy in the rotation) but also it looked
like the rear gear cassette was rotating around a v slightly different
axis to the wheel itself). Not sure how worried i should be about
this!
Apologies if this is hard to decipher as i am not bike expert. I'm
just trying to work out if this is something i can fix myself,
requires a professional, and how much it might cost to rectify.


Noises can be hard to track down as they resonate but start by removing
pedals, lube threads and torque properly (Campagnolo says 40nm. That or
a bit higher). Then grab the right pedal in your hand and press/pull. Is
the pedal cage loose on the body? Does any part of the pedal rock or
move? Are there bolts holding the pedal cage to the body? Are they
tight? Check left as well.
Test ride for noise.
Remove chainring bolts one at a time, oil or grease the male side and
torque them.
Test ride for noise.
See if the crank is properly torqued to the spindle( there are various
formats)Lubricate crank bolt threads.
Test ride for noise.
See if the crank assembly rocks in the bike (i.e., crank bearing
problems). Look to see if a visible gap shows between right side cup
flange and the frame. Crank bearing assemblies ('BB') require specialty
tools. If you identify a problem there, you can decide whether to invest
in tooling or to consult with your LBS.
Is your chain lubricated? Dry chains can be loud. Oil then test ride for
noise.
A worn chain will exhibit symptoms in the most frequently used gear
combination first, see 'chains' he
http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/index.html
but they usually are not noisy from wear.

If you rear wheel has a reflector attached to a spoke, remove that and
try spinning the wheel again.

If it's still vibrating, see if the tire is evenly mounted by touching a
finger lightly as it spins. If it's lumpy, look at the edge of the tire
just above the braking surface. You'll see a molded raised line. That
line should be even and visible all around. If not, remove tire and
re-mount evenly before filling to pressure written on the tire sidewall.

With the wheel secured in the bike, does the wheel rock from side to
side in your hand? Bearing problems can be loud.

(While we're there, thinking of that noise, lubricate the cam in your
rear wheel quick release and lock it properly. The lever should leave a
print on your palm for a few seconds. If it was not secured, the wheel
can shift under pedal pressure and the noise will resonate through your
frame.)

If the reflector, tire or bearing are not the source of your vibration,
observe the spinning rim. Is it round? Does it waver side to side? Are
there dents? If any of those, is the spoke tension tight and even?
Again, this is perfectly approachable by the practical man but a
consultation with a competent mechanic may be of use as well.

p.s. The link above has much more related and useful information.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

wrote:
Hi - i recently got a Trek 7.1 hybrid from a friend. it is second hand
and has had a fair life.
When i peddle hard, i get a creaking sort of noise just on the right
crank. It is most apparent on the highest (i mean largest) front cog
and smallest rear cog. It occurs in the pushing phase of peddling, not
as the right crank comes back around as i push on the left crank. I
can also hear/feel it when i am on the largest front cog but smallest
but-one rear cog. But much less so. Speed of crank rotation does not
seem to affect it.
It does not sound or feel like the peddle or crank are knocking
against anything.
I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it but, i had the bike
upturned the other day to check the gear cabling adjustments. When i
rotated (by hand) the cranks and the rear wheel got some real speed
up, it did not rotate 'true'. I mean, the rear of the bike vibrated
quite a bit (maybe just the energy in the rotation) but also it looked
like the rear gear cassette was rotating around a v slightly different
axis to the wheel itself). Not sure how worried i should be about
this!
Apologies if this is hard to decipher as i am not bike expert. I'm
just trying to work out if this is something i can fix myself,
requires a professional, and how much it might cost to rectify.

wrote:
I hope landotter is right and I'm wrong, for your sake, but I'm
thinking bottom bracket. Sheldons site is still a very useful tool
for dealing with that, but if you strike out with landotters
suggestions you may check the bottom bracket.

It's my understanding that the wheel being out of true would refer to
the rim wobbling in relation to the hub, not the cassette wobbling on
the hub. The hub and cassette being very slightly off could just be
the loose tolerances of inexpensive equipment. I wouldn't stress over
it. If the rim itself is out of true enough that it bothers you,
becomes noticeable or rubs the brake pads I'd true the wheel up, but
otherwise you're probably good.

Sounds like you're going to be able to do it yourself if you want to
take the time and learn a little as you go. I treat Sheldons site as
my cycle repair bible, and have learned to overtake MANY projects that
way. Good luck to you, and come back when you're done and let us know
what you did and how it works out.

Thanks. Dan. You reminded me that a loose cassette lockring can also be
noisy.
The OP might see if the individual sprockets move on the cassette body.
If so, lube and torque the lockring.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

wrote:

When i peddle hard, i get a creaking sort of noise just on the right
crank. It is most apparent on the highest (i mean largest) front cog
and smallest rear cog. It occurs in the pushing phase of peddling, not
as the right crank comes back around as i push on the left crank. I
can also hear/feel it when i am on the largest front cog but smallest
but-one rear cog. But much less so. Speed of crank rotation does not
seem to affect it.

It does not sound or feel like the peddle or crank are knocking
against anything.

I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it but, i had the bike
upturned the other day to check the gear cabling adjustments. When i
rotated (by hand) the cranks and the rear wheel got some real speed
up, it did not rotate 'true'. I mean, the rear of the bike vibrated
quite a bit (maybe just the energy in the rotation) but also it looked
like the rear gear cassette was rotating around a v slightly different
axis to the wheel itself). Not sure how worried i should be about
this!

Had a similar thing happen on my roadie a while back. Found the right crank
a bit loose. So I tightened it a bit.

It started creaking again some time later, but found it a bit loose once
again, so that probably explained it.

By this stage I was fed up with the thing and tightened the cr@p out of it,
and it hasn't given me any grief since.
--
Linux Registered User # 302622
http://counter.li.org

On Jan 29, 7:44 pm, wrote:
Hi - i recently got a Trek 7.1 hybrid from a friend. it is second hand
and has had a fair life.

When i peddle hard, i get a creaking sort of noise just on the right
crank. It is most apparent on the highest (i mean largest) front cog
and smallest rear cog. It occurs in the pushing phase of peddling, not
as the right crank comes back around as i push on the left crank. I
can also hear/feel it when i am on the largest front cog but smallest
but-one rear cog. But much less so. Speed of crank rotation does not
seem to affect it.

It does not sound or feel like the peddle or crank are knocking
against anything.

I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it but, i had the bike
upturned the other day to check the gear cabling adjustments. When i
rotated (by hand) the cranks and the rear wheel got some real speed
up, it did not rotate 'true'. I mean, the rear of the bike vibrated
quite a bit (maybe just the energy in the rotation) but also it looked
like the rear gear cassette was rotating around a v slightly different
axis to the wheel itself). Not sure how worried i should be about
this!

Apologies if this is hard to decipher as i am not bike expert. I'm
just trying to work out if this is something i can fix myself,
requires a professional, and how much it might cost to rectify.

thanks.

A similarly annoying creak on my bike was eventually, after everything
else had been torqued up correctly, traced to the crank, the arm which
connects the pedal to the bottom bracket. The LBS twice tightened the
crank bolts but the creaks returned the same say, so I lost patience
and just did the job myself. I used a torque wrench and that did the
job for good. It might be a good idea if you have the tools to take
the bolt out and the arm off and just clean and grease everything so
it fits together smoothly.
If you know or can find the specific torque settings for your bike or
component, use them. If not, here are some general guidelines:

Cranks with square ends:
- steel 30 - 40 Nm
- aluminium 20 - 25 Nm
- Shimano 35 - 45 Nm

You can get crank bolts with Allen key heads or octagonal bolt heads.
The latter are much more convenient in requiring standard sockets that
fit the common kind of torque wrench. However, BBB sells a torgue
wrench kit with Allen bits.

Crank arm creak is pretty distinctive: it sounds like metal under
stress and it there only when pedalling. Here's a zero-tool, zero-cost
check: Stand the bike next to a pole in the ground, one pedal braced
behind the pole so that the cranks are horizontal. Hold the handlebars
and stand up with all your weight on the free pedal. If you hear
nothing, turn the bike around and repeat for the other pedal. You'll
hear the creak if it is the crank bolts that require tightening.

HTH.

Andre Jute
Real men eat quiche with their fingers

"Andre Jute" wrote in message
...

You can get crank bolts with Allen key heads or octagonal bolt heads.
The latter are much more convenient in requiring standard sockets that
fit the common kind of torque wrench. However, BBB sells a torgue
wrench kit with Allen bits.

Hexagonal bolt heads, surely? Still tricky, since standard sockets have
walls which are too thick to fit.

I've actually got an 8mm allen 1/2" socket for my torque wrench/socket set.
Don't tend to use it though.

clive