Replacing UG freehub with FH-290

On 2016-02-14 10:17, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 12:04 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-14 08:34, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 9:38 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-13 18:49, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time
on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they
don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just arrived.
Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the old UG
hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs
with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said
FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish
the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly
content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that
hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but
sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk
stripping out the
aluminum thread?

The Shimano Dealers Manual - Road Wheel Set (DM-WH0002-02)
states 45.0
- 50.0 Nm (373 - 437 In. Lb.), But I believe that is for a
9 or 10
speed hub. I did found the documentation for an 8 speed hub
(SI-6R3RA-001) that specifies 35 - 50 N·m (305 - 434 in.
lbs.) and if
the 7 speed uses the same thread size for the retaining
bolt I would
think that the torque would be much the same.


I greased it with Liqui-Moly and gave it 30 lbs-ft. That
felt like a lot for an aluminum threads even though it's a
long one. The new freehub has a slight play in the bearings.
That was a bit disappointing. The old one didn't until I
crunched it.

A fringe benefit is that I now have a 24T sprocket and no
longer the 21-28T step.

The test ride will be today. Another growler run to a
brewpub :-)


Take the time to redo the axle set. Lock the right side
bits securely on
oiled threads, adjust from the left side such that there's
the slightest
trace of play out of bike and no play when skewer is
closed. Running it
loose will give fast and uneven wear.


The axle is adjusted so it has no play. When I wiggle the
rim there is nothing. The play is in the freehub body and
only the cassette rocks a little, not the wheel. That's what
my MTB freehub started doing after 1000mi and then around
1500mi it failed on me. This one has it from the start but
some folks said a little play in the freehub is ok.


Double check that maybe.
New Shimano cassette bodies are phenomenally uniform. It's much more
likely that the total spacing of your cassette sprockets and spacers is
too thin and so the lockring doesn't fully compress them.


I made sure of that, the sprockets sit there quite tight. You can also
feel the play when the sprocket stack is off. It's the FH-M290 freehub
doing that.

But I just ride and see. If it fails a replacement freehub is cheap and
easily mounted. It's just that it took me a while to find one that
(somewhat) fits to replace an old 600 EX freehub. When this happens I
always enter the info into a little file here on the computer network so
I can find it back.

Yesterday the bike rode just fine and the beer was good. I just hope
I'll never experience a growler detonation in the panniers. The pressure
that builds in there up during a ride is enormous.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Monday, February 15, 2016 at 10:24:36 AM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
Snipped

my MTB freehub started doing after 1000mi and then around
1500mi it failed on me

Snipped
You can also feel the play when the sprocket stack is off. It's the FH-M290 freehub doing that.

But I just ride and see. If it fails a replacement freehub is cheap and
easily mounted. It's just that it took me a while to find one that
(somewhat) fits to replace an old 600 EX freehub. When this happens I
always enter the info into a little file here on the computer network so
I can find it back.


You'll come back and complain that the thing failed after little use. On the original you say you felt play at 1000 miles and total failure at 1500 miles. That 500 miles isn`t that long.

A lot of times kluges don`r work properly or for long.

Cheers

On 2016-02-15 07:56, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, February 15, 2016 at 10:24:36 AM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
Snipped

my MTB freehub started doing after 1000mi and then around 1500mi
it failed on me

Snipped
You can also feel the play when the sprocket stack is off. It's the
FH-M290 freehub doing that.

But I just ride and see. If it fails a replacement freehub is cheap
and easily mounted. It's just that it took me a while to find one
that (somewhat) fits to replace an old 600 EX freehub. When this
happens I always enter the info into a little file here on the
computer network so I can find it back.


You'll come back and complain that the thing failed after little use.
On the original you say you felt play at 1000 miles and total failure
at 1500 miles. That 500 miles isn`t that long.


No, that was on the MTB. Its Formula freehub began to fail after 1000mi.
I don't remember when it fully failed, could have been before 1500mi but
was within year of bike purchase and thus covered under warranty. The
replacement is developing some play as well but more slowly and now I am
approaching 3k miles on that bike.

The road bike freehub lasted much longer but I didn't have any more UG
freehubs so I had to wing it. I'd have gone for a new rear wheel but
nowadays they have deep rims and the thick tubes won't fit those, on
account of their short Presta valve stems.


A lot of times kluges don`r work properly or for long.


Actually kludges seem to last long. The more crude they are the longest :-)

But who cares, after the Saturday wrench session I made all the mods
needed so swapping in another freehub of same type should take me much
less than an hour next time. The main reason why it took over 2h this
time was that I discovered the tire to be almost through and those
Gatorskins are built too tight. I still feel some pain in my thumbs from
getting it on the rim and I'd never attempt a flat fix on the raod with
these. But since the thick tubes I never get flats so not an issue.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Monday, February 15, 2016 at 1:12:52 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-15 07:56, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, February 15, 2016 at 10:24:36 AM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
Snipped

my MTB freehub started doing after 1000mi and then around 1500mi
it failed on me

Snipped
You can also feel the play when the sprocket stack is off. It's the
FH-M290 freehub doing that.

But I just ride and see. If it fails a replacement freehub is cheap
and easily mounted. It's just that it took me a while to find one
that (somewhat) fits to replace an old 600 EX freehub. When this
happens I always enter the info into a little file here on the
computer network so I can find it back.


You'll come back and complain that the thing failed after little use.
On the original you say you felt play at 1000 miles and total failure
at 1500 miles. That 500 miles isn`t that long.


No, that was on the MTB. Its Formula freehub began to fail after 1000mi.
I don't remember when it fully failed, could have been before 1500mi but
was within year of bike purchase and thus covered under warranty. The
replacement is developing some play as well but more slowly and now I am
approaching 3k miles on that bike.

The road bike freehub lasted much longer but I didn't have any more UG
freehubs so I had to wing it. I'd have gone for a new rear wheel but
nowadays they have deep rims and the thick tubes won't fit those, on
account of their short Presta valve stems.


A lot of times kluges don`r work properly or for long.


Actually kludges seem to last long. The more crude they are the longest :-)

But who cares, after the Saturday wrench session I made all the mods
needed so swapping in another freehub of same type should take me much
less than an hour next time. The main reason why it took over 2h this
time was that I discovered the tire to be almost through and those
Gatorskins are built too tight. I still feel some pain in my thumbs from
getting it on the rim and I'd never attempt a flat fix on the raod with
these. But since the thick tubes I never get flats so not an issue.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Well if I road under the extreme conditions and in the remote areas you claim to I'd be concerned about qa kludged freehub transfer failing out there. OYMV

Cheers

On 2016-02-15 12:12, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, February 15, 2016 at 1:12:52 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-15 07:56, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

[...]

A lot of times kluges don`r work properly or for long.


Actually kludges seem to last long. The more crude they are the
longest :-)

But who cares, after the Saturday wrench session I made all the
mods needed so swapping in another freehub of same type should take
me much less than an hour next time. The main reason why it took
over 2h this time was that I discovered the tire to be almost
through and those Gatorskins are built too tight. I still feel some
pain in my thumbs from getting it on the rim and I'd never attempt
a flat fix on the raod with these. But since the thick tubes I
never get flats so not an issue.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Well if I road under the extreme conditions and in the remote areas
you claim to I'd be concerned about qa kludged freehub transfer
failing out there. OYMV


What's so kludged about the freehub transfer? The only kludge in there
right now is washers with too much OD because I didn't have time to make
new ones. Only relevant when I need to swap the cassette and by then
I'll have made the correct sizes.

The road bike doesn't see extreme conditions. The occasional bush trail
section is considered normal out here. It's not an MTB although I often
wish it was a cyclocross bike.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 07:24:53 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2016-02-14 10:17, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 12:04 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-14 08:34, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 9:38 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-13 18:49, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time
on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they
don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just arrived.
Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the old UG
hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs
with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said
FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish
the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly
content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that
hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but
sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk
stripping out the
aluminum thread?

The Shimano Dealers Manual - Road Wheel Set (DM-WH0002-02)
states 45.0
- 50.0 Nm (373 - 437 In. Lb.), But I believe that is for a
9 or 10
speed hub. I did found the documentation for an 8 speed hub
(SI-6R3RA-001) that specifies 35 - 50 N·m (305 - 434 in.
lbs.) and if
the 7 speed uses the same thread size for the retaining
bolt I would
think that the torque would be much the same.


I greased it with Liqui-Moly and gave it 30 lbs-ft. That
felt like a lot for an aluminum threads even though it's a
long one. The new freehub has a slight play in the bearings.
That was a bit disappointing. The old one didn't until I
crunched it.

A fringe benefit is that I now have a 24T sprocket and no
longer the 21-28T step.

The test ride will be today. Another growler run to a
brewpub :-)


Take the time to redo the axle set. Lock the right side
bits securely on
oiled threads, adjust from the left side such that there's
the slightest
trace of play out of bike and no play when skewer is
closed. Running it
loose will give fast and uneven wear.


The axle is adjusted so it has no play. When I wiggle the
rim there is nothing. The play is in the freehub body and
only the cassette rocks a little, not the wheel. That's what
my MTB freehub started doing after 1000mi and then around
1500mi it failed on me. This one has it from the start but
some folks said a little play in the freehub is ok.


Double check that maybe.
New Shimano cassette bodies are phenomenally uniform. It's much more
likely that the total spacing of your cassette sprockets and spacers is
too thin and so the lockring doesn't fully compress them.


I made sure of that, the sprockets sit there quite tight. You can also
feel the play when the sprocket stack is off. It's the FH-M290 freehub
doing that.

But I just ride and see. If it fails a replacement freehub is cheap and
easily mounted. It's just that it took me a while to find one that
(somewhat) fits to replace an old 600 EX freehub. When this happens I
always enter the info into a little file here on the computer network so
I can find it back.

Yesterday the bike rode just fine and the beer was good. I just hope
I'll never experience a growler detonation in the panniers. The pressure
that builds in there up during a ride is enormous.

As the R.H. wheel bearing is in the freehub the wheel is suspended by
a bearing in the left side of the hub and the bearing in the freehub.
If the freehub wiggles it would seem that the entire wheel would be
loose as the freehub is attached to the wheel hub with 30 ft. lbs. of
torque it would seem that it would be fairly solidly mounted to the
wheel.

If the freehub body is excessively loose on the inner freehub "hub"
then you could disassemble the freehub "hub" to replace the bearings -
I believe that there are 50 pieces, /8" balls in these things :-)

See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9gIEG1db0s
or
http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/tech/...howfix_freehub
for details.

Note that Shimano does not recommend rebuilding the freehub and (I
believe) does not sell parts for it.
--
cheers,

John B.

On 2016-02-15 18:14, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 07:24:53 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2016-02-14 10:17, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 12:04 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-14 08:34, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 9:38 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-13 18:49, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time
on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they
don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just arrived.
Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the old UG
hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs
with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said
FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish
the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly
content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that
hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but
sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk
stripping out the
aluminum thread?

The Shimano Dealers Manual - Road Wheel Set (DM-WH0002-02)
states 45.0
- 50.0 Nm (373 - 437 In. Lb.), But I believe that is for a
9 or 10
speed hub. I did found the documentation for an 8 speed hub
(SI-6R3RA-001) that specifies 35 - 50 N·m (305 - 434 in.
lbs.) and if
the 7 speed uses the same thread size for the retaining
bolt I would
think that the torque would be much the same.


I greased it with Liqui-Moly and gave it 30 lbs-ft. That
felt like a lot for an aluminum threads even though it's a
long one. The new freehub has a slight play in the bearings.
That was a bit disappointing. The old one didn't until I
crunched it.

A fringe benefit is that I now have a 24T sprocket and no
longer the 21-28T step.

The test ride will be today. Another growler run to a
brewpub :-)


Take the time to redo the axle set. Lock the right side
bits securely on
oiled threads, adjust from the left side such that there's
the slightest
trace of play out of bike and no play when skewer is
closed. Running it
loose will give fast and uneven wear.


The axle is adjusted so it has no play. When I wiggle the
rim there is nothing. The play is in the freehub body and
only the cassette rocks a little, not the wheel. That's what
my MTB freehub started doing after 1000mi and then around
1500mi it failed on me. This one has it from the start but
some folks said a little play in the freehub is ok.


Double check that maybe.
New Shimano cassette bodies are phenomenally uniform. It's much more
likely that the total spacing of your cassette sprockets and spacers is
too thin and so the lockring doesn't fully compress them.


I made sure of that, the sprockets sit there quite tight. You can also
feel the play when the sprocket stack is off. It's the FH-M290 freehub
doing that.

But I just ride and see. If it fails a replacement freehub is cheap and
easily mounted. It's just that it took me a while to find one that
(somewhat) fits to replace an old 600 EX freehub. When this happens I
always enter the info into a little file here on the computer network so
I can find it back.

Yesterday the bike rode just fine and the beer was good. I just hope
I'll never experience a growler detonation in the panniers. The pressure
that builds in there up during a ride is enormous.

As the R.H. wheel bearing is in the freehub the wheel is suspended by
a bearing in the left side of the hub and the bearing in the freehub.
If the freehub wiggles it would seem that the entire wheel would be
loose as the freehub is attached to the wheel hub with 30 ft. lbs. of
torque it would seem that it would be fairly solidly mounted to the
wheel.


The freehub is solidly torqued down at 30 lbs-ft. It's the outer ring of
the freehub having play against its body.


If the freehub body is excessively loose on the inner freehub "hub"
then you could disassemble the freehub "hub" to replace the bearings -
I believe that there are 50 pieces, /8" balls in these things :-)

See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9gIEG1db0s
or
http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/tech/...howfix_freehub
for details.

Note that Shimano does not recommend rebuilding the freehub and (I
believe) does not sell parts for it.


And I'll never attempt doing that when I can buy a new one for less than
$20 :-)

Probably the only way to remove play from inside a freehub is with shims
and obtaining those will probably not be easy and will cost:

http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=99421

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2/16/2016 9:39 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-15 18:14, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 07:24:53 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

On 2016-02-14 10:17, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 12:04 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-14 08:34, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 9:38 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-13 18:49, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This
time
on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they
don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just
arrived.
Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the
old UG
hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found
such hubs
with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said
FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to
re-dish
the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly
content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that
hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but
sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk
stripping out the
aluminum thread?

The Shimano Dealers Manual - Road Wheel Set
(DM-WH0002-02)
states 45.0
- 50.0 Nm (373 - 437 In. Lb.), But I believe that is
for a
9 or 10
speed hub. I did found the documentation for an 8
speed hub
(SI-6R3RA-001) that specifies 35 - 50 N·m (305 - 434
in.
lbs.) and if
the 7 speed uses the same thread size for the retaining
bolt I would
think that the torque would be much the same.


I greased it with Liqui-Moly and gave it 30 lbs-ft. That
felt like a lot for an aluminum threads even though
it's a
long one. The new freehub has a slight play in the
bearings.
That was a bit disappointing. The old one didn't until I
crunched it.

A fringe benefit is that I now have a 24T sprocket
and no
longer the 21-28T step.

The test ride will be today. Another growler run to a
brewpub :-)


Take the time to redo the axle set. Lock the right side
bits securely on
oiled threads, adjust from the left side such that
there's
the slightest
trace of play out of bike and no play when skewer is
closed. Running it
loose will give fast and uneven wear.


The axle is adjusted so it has no play. When I wiggle the
rim there is nothing. The play is in the freehub body and
only the cassette rocks a little, not the wheel. That's
what
my MTB freehub started doing after 1000mi and then around
1500mi it failed on me. This one has it from the start but
some folks said a little play in the freehub is ok.


Double check that maybe.
New Shimano cassette bodies are phenomenally uniform.
It's much more
likely that the total spacing of your cassette sprockets
and spacers is
too thin and so the lockring doesn't fully compress them.


I made sure of that, the sprockets sit there quite tight.
You can also
feel the play when the sprocket stack is off. It's the
FH-M290 freehub
doing that.

But I just ride and see. If it fails a replacement
freehub is cheap and
easily mounted. It's just that it took me a while to find
one that
(somewhat) fits to replace an old 600 EX freehub. When
this happens I
always enter the info into a little file here on the
computer network so
I can find it back.

Yesterday the bike rode just fine and the beer was good.
I just hope
I'll never experience a growler detonation in the
panniers. The pressure
that builds in there up during a ride is enormous.

As the R.H. wheel bearing is in the freehub the wheel is
suspended by
a bearing in the left side of the hub and the bearing in
the freehub.
If the freehub wiggles it would seem that the entire wheel
would be
loose as the freehub is attached to the wheel hub with 30
ft. lbs. of
torque it would seem that it would be fairly solidly
mounted to the
wheel.


The freehub is solidly torqued down at 30 lbs-ft. It's the
outer ring of the freehub having play against its body.


If the freehub body is excessively loose on the inner
freehub "hub"
then you could disassemble the freehub "hub" to replace
the bearings -
I believe that there are 50 pieces, /8" balls in these
things :-)

See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9gIEG1db0s
or
http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/tech/...howfix_freehub
for details.

Note that Shimano does not recommend rebuilding the
freehub and (I
believe) does not sell parts for it.


And I'll never attempt doing that when I can buy a new one
for less than $20 :-)

Probably the only way to remove play from inside a freehub
is with shims and obtaining those will probably not be easy
and will cost:

http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=99421


Given that Shimano freehub bodies have been robotically
assembled with robot inspection for thirty years in
staggeringly high volume, the rate of error is vanishingly
small. It's possible of course, but I haven't seen a new
not-correct Shimano brand freehub body, tight or loose,
since UG.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 2016-02-16 07:45, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/16/2016 9:39 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-15 18:14, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 07:24:53 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

On 2016-02-14 10:17, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 12:04 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-14 08:34, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 9:38 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-13 18:49, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This
time
on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they
don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just
arrived.
Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the
old UG
hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found
such hubs
with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said
FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to
re-dish
the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly
content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that
hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but
sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk
stripping out the
aluminum thread?

The Shimano Dealers Manual - Road Wheel Set
(DM-WH0002-02)
states 45.0
- 50.0 Nm (373 - 437 In. Lb.), But I believe that is
for a
9 or 10
speed hub. I did found the documentation for an 8
speed hub
(SI-6R3RA-001) that specifies 35 - 50 N·m (305 - 434
in.
lbs.) and if
the 7 speed uses the same thread size for the retaining
bolt I would
think that the torque would be much the same.


I greased it with Liqui-Moly and gave it 30 lbs-ft. That
felt like a lot for an aluminum threads even though
it's a
long one. The new freehub has a slight play in the
bearings.
That was a bit disappointing. The old one didn't until I
crunched it.

A fringe benefit is that I now have a 24T sprocket
and no
longer the 21-28T step.

The test ride will be today. Another growler run to a
brewpub :-)


Take the time to redo the axle set. Lock the right side
bits securely on
oiled threads, adjust from the left side such that
there's
the slightest
trace of play out of bike and no play when skewer is
closed. Running it
loose will give fast and uneven wear.


The axle is adjusted so it has no play. When I wiggle the
rim there is nothing. The play is in the freehub body and
only the cassette rocks a little, not the wheel. That's
what
my MTB freehub started doing after 1000mi and then around
1500mi it failed on me. This one has it from the start but
some folks said a little play in the freehub is ok.


Double check that maybe.
New Shimano cassette bodies are phenomenally uniform.
It's much more
likely that the total spacing of your cassette sprockets
and spacers is
too thin and so the lockring doesn't fully compress them.


I made sure of that, the sprockets sit there quite tight.
You can also
feel the play when the sprocket stack is off. It's the
FH-M290 freehub
doing that.

But I just ride and see. If it fails a replacement
freehub is cheap and
easily mounted. It's just that it took me a while to find
one that
(somewhat) fits to replace an old 600 EX freehub. When
this happens I
always enter the info into a little file here on the
computer network so
I can find it back.

Yesterday the bike rode just fine and the beer was good.
I just hope
I'll never experience a growler detonation in the
panniers. The pressure
that builds in there up during a ride is enormous.

As the R.H. wheel bearing is in the freehub the wheel is
suspended by
a bearing in the left side of the hub and the bearing in
the freehub.
If the freehub wiggles it would seem that the entire wheel
would be
loose as the freehub is attached to the wheel hub with 30
ft. lbs. of
torque it would seem that it would be fairly solidly
mounted to the
wheel.


The freehub is solidly torqued down at 30 lbs-ft. It's the
outer ring of the freehub having play against its body.


If the freehub body is excessively loose on the inner
freehub "hub"
then you could disassemble the freehub "hub" to replace
the bearings -
I believe that there are 50 pieces, /8" balls in these
things :-)

See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9gIEG1db0s
or
http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/tech/...howfix_freehub
for details.

Note that Shimano does not recommend rebuilding the
freehub and (I
believe) does not sell parts for it.


And I'll never attempt doing that when I can buy a new one
for less than $20 :-)

Probably the only way to remove play from inside a freehub
is with shims and obtaining those will probably not be easy
and will cost:

http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=99421


Given that Shimano freehub bodies have been robotically assembled with
robot inspection for thirty years in staggeringly high volume, the rate
of error is vanishingly small. It's possible of course, but I haven't
seen a new not-correct Shimano brand freehub body, tight or loose, since
UG.


That's what I assumed. I just don't know how "loose" is "too loose".
Guess I'll just ride and see. If it doesn't get worse over the first
1000mi it should be ok. I've kept the bag, just in case. Main reason is
that the freehub before this one failed that way, became looser, then
started skipping and jamming within less than 1500mi total. But that was
MTB usage and it was a Formula hub.

Now I'll have to find a brewing NG to inquire how much rough trail
riding a stainless steel growler can take before risking KABOOM :-)

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2/16/2016 10:13 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-16 07:45, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/16/2016 9:39 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-15 18:14, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 07:24:53 -0800, Joerg

On 2016-02-14 10:17, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 12:04 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-14 08:34, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 9:38 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-13 18:49, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg


-snip snip snip change subject to beer explosion-

Now I'll have to find a brewing NG to inquire how much rough
trail riding a stainless steel growler can take before
risking KABOOM :-)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vEIBg7WPaI


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971