Slime Self Healing PV Road Tube?!?!

On Thu, 3 May 2007 22:43:22 -0500, "Mike Kruger"
wrote:

wrote:

Slime itself is edible.

How's it compare to a Powerbar?

Well, it sticks to your ribs a lot better.
--
zk

On May 3, 10:43 pm, "Mike Kruger" wrote:
wrote:

Slime itself is edible.

How's it compare to a Powerbar?


Probably tastes better......but don't let that info leak out.

Prisoner at War asked:

Slime Self Healing PV Road Tube?

I think that some of the previous replies to this query
addressed the use of Slime tubes in tires that are larger
and run at much lower pressures than those on road bikes.
I've used Slimes on MTBs ridden on-road with 60 PSI, and
they seem to seal fast enough to retain some air; I think
this is primarily because it's easier to plug the leak at
pressures lower than the 100 to 125 PSI commonly used for
narrow road bike tires, and the air lost from the tube
during the sealing process has less effect because of the
larger volume of air in the fat tire tubes.

In my experience with Slimes on road bikes, they may seal
a goathead puncture, but the tire is likely to have lost
too much air to keep riding on it. It may be easier to
just reinflate the tire rather than hassle with a patch
or tube replacement on the roadside, but that's about the
best you should hope for.

Slime is more likely to clog Presta valves with internals
that aren't easily removed or replaced like the Schrader
valves more commonly used with wider rims and fat tires.
Also, as other folks have said, it can be a real mess to
clean up after a leaking Slime tube, especially if it's
your only option for a roadside repair. On balance, my
vote is: Slime for MTBs - maybe; road bikes - NO.

Also, has anyone any experience with glueless patch
kits? How are they, how do they work?

Glueless is a blatant misnomer. These clear polyurethane
patches use glue to attach to the leaking tube, just like
conventional black rubber patches. They don't require the
separate application of 'glue' from a tube as a surface
prep before sticking them on the tire. Some of these
patches 'work', at least marginally, temporarily. If you
clean the area with an alcohol swab, let it dry and apply
the patch carefully, let it set awhile and don't disturb
it in the process of remounting the tire, one can be a
viable 'quick' fix to get back on the road. It's probably
a better repair than a hastily, sloppily applied 'glued'
patch. Again, I found them much harder to apply on small
section road bike tubes, and less successful than on fat
tired bikes. Even when I use one on an MTBs, I still try
to remember to replace a glueless patch with a glued
rubber patch once I have the bike back home. The most
common failure I've seen with PU patches is a thin line,
sort of like a wrinkle, from hole to outside edge where
the patch comes unbonded from the tube, and forms a slow
leak. Another thing that can wreck a repair job with a
'glueless' patch is inflating the tube outside the tire;
PU patches just don't stretch as well as rubber ones.

Again, my vote is: if you have the time to apply a rubber
patch properly, use that rather than a glueless patch. If
you're in a bigger hurry, swap the tube.

Regards,
Wayne Leggett
3-2-GO
The Trike Store
Ventura CA