Road Unicycle Set-Up and T7 Handle Modification

turtle;1167544 wrote:
as i said, i'm not really a road-rider so this are only guesses:



You got me thinking now...is there any reason why the V-frame or
T-frame bicycle set-up couldn't work for MUni? And you could
potentially add a suspension fork on the front fork in the V-frame, or
in a pivoting handlebar on the T-frame (and shock underneath) if you get
what I mean.

BTW, I think I'll try your flipped upside down T7 idea, if I can find a
suitable attachment for the seatpost. What did you attach it with? Have
you got a close-up photo? It should solve the problem of the T7 being
too upright. Thanks!


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GizmoDuck;1167560 wrote:
You got me thinking now...is there any reason why the V-frame or T-frame
bicycle set-up couldn't work for MUni? And you could potentially add a
suspension fork on the front fork in the V-frame, or in a pivoting
handlebar on the T-frame (and shock underneath) if you get what I mean.

BTW, I think I'll try your flipped upside down T7 idea, if I can find a
suitable attachment for the seatpost. What did you attach it with? Have
you got a close-up photo? It should solve the problem of the T7 being
too upright. Thanks!



he took a normal unicycle seatpost and put 4 bolt on it to attach the
t7 bar
atleast thats what i see in the picture


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i used a normel steal-seatpost, bent the plate a little bit (heated it),
worked very well, probably not very strong

for xc why not, for real muni/freeride, i'm not sure, but i'll try it
with my T-thing next week on the 29" kh... for the 24" thea post is to
short...

you're right with the wight of the V frame, with alot lighter tubes...

aerodynamic in TdF: the most of them ride in the slipstream (is that
the right word?) except in the time trials..


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turtle;1167584 wrote:
i used a normel steal-seatpost, bent the plate a little bit (heated it),
worked very well, probably not very strong

for xc why not, for real muni/freeride, i'm not sure, but i'll try it
with my T-thing next week on the 29" kh... for the 24" thea post is to
short...

you're right with the wight of the V frame, with alot lighter tubes...

aerodynamic in TdF: the most of them ride in the slipstream (is that
the right word?) except in the time trials..



Thanks Turtle. I might be able to use some sort of round spacer (I'm
thinking lump of wood surrounded by an inner tube) to try to bolt two
convex shapes together perhaps.

Hmmm...I reckon if you were to use it for MUni, you'd need a wider bar
for leverage. And definitely a low down position as well.

Tour de France TT- I'm sure they still have their bars at about the
same width as their shoulders.

I'll let you know how I get on with the new flipped T7


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GizmoDuck;1167590 wrote:

Hmmm...I reckon if you were to use it for MUni, you'd need a wider bar
for leverage. And definitely a low down position as well.




i think with a wider bar for muni you'll start turning the uni if you
use only one hand, what i want ist just a handle across the two bar ends
so i can pull with one hand like the handle on the uni-seats. maybe it
has to be closer to the seat, than in my setup, but when i tried today i
could pull pretty hard with one hand at the end of the handle...

...yes let my know how it worked out and if you hit also your ellbows
with your knees...


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Hey,

These are all really great ideas and it is cool that some are already
working on it.

Because a uni frame is free to hinge back and forth, we are always
going to be sitting over the balance point, meaning of course that
leaning forward onto a longer handle extended out the front will simply
shift the angle of the frame back. Consequently, the rider position
and weight distribution for an R or V frame should be exactly same as
long as we are balanced over the wheel. Nice thing about the R frame
approach is it completely eliminates the possibility of bashing your
knees on the frame (assuming the saddle is directly over the frame); the
V is geometrically stronger for a handle but I'm not yet sure that can't
be solved with an R frame approach (or some hybrid of the two) since we
don't also have to support a front wheel.

It will be cool to see how all this pans out! Looking forward to see
how Rick's V frame looks.

Cheers,

Kris


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Man, it's been a while since I've posted here..

A neat thing about the R frame is that it will pack down into two small
tubes, and if you're looking for versatility you can always convert it
back to a 'normal' unicycle for if you're doing something more offroad
or will need your hands or something.

It's very cool to finally see a use for the tail on the T7, I'm not
sure it really had one until now. Awesome going, Ken.


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I'm really interested to see how all these handle experiments pan out.
I'm still doing research on my frame design(cut the drops and front fork
off a road bike frame and fix the handlebars in place) As soon as i feel
confident in the design I'm going to find a welder and see if I can't
get a prototype made up. I don't see why we always have to think about
how to bail off in a UPD, when I ride in a position to expect a UPD I
almost always end up injuring my ankles or legs(haven't broken anything
yet though thankfully.) My fastest ever UPD was at 22.5mph(36kph) and I
was in a total road tuck came out of it with minor road rash and kept
riding afterwards. I'll post up pictures of my frame when I finally get
it mocked up.


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danger_uni;1167726 wrote:
Hey,

These are all really great ideas and it is cool that some are already
working on it.

Because a uni frame is free to hinge back and forth, we are always
going to be sitting over the balance point, meaning of course that
leaning forward onto a longer handle extended out the front will simply
shift the angle of the frame back. Consequently, the rider position
and weight distribution for an R or V frame should be exactly same as
long as we are balanced over the wheel. Nice thing about the R frame
approach is it completely eliminates the possibility of bashing your
knees on the frame (assuming the saddle is directly over the frame); the
V is geometrically stronger for a handle but I'm not yet sure that can't
be solved with an R frame approach (or some hybrid of the two) since we
don't also have to support a front wheel.

Kris



Hi Kris,

Regarding the T-frame approach using a KH36" frame....I think the knee
bashing can be solved by angling it. I just need a bit more adjustment
than what I have currently. So it looks less like a T and more like a
-T- (slanted heavily).

I still think an r-frame or 7-frame is essentially a weak
design....long poles sticking out from the frame with no support vs two
shorter ones of the T-frame.

What you say is correct regarding balance point. You are still
balanced over the axle, but your bum is pushed back when you arms are
stretched out front. It lowers your centre of gravity which I find
helps with stability at speed also.


--
GizmoDuck

The Induni Unicycle Tour 2009. Unicycle Tour of India. Email me for
details. www.induni.adventureunicyclist.com
The Uninam Tour 2008.....Hanoi to Saigon!!! www.uninam.net
The SINZ Unicycle Tour 2007....South Island, New Zealand
www.sinzuni.org
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@gizmo: do you never sleep?

i still thik for taller persons a T frame is perfect, and if your
weight is on your bottom and your hands the force goes direct down it is
also strong enough. i think a "one-piece" T-Frame with adjustible seat
and handlebar (forward, backward and up and down) would be great.

btw: this thread is making me to want a geard 36"


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