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#71
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A warning on pipe-cutters
Hacksaw FTW!?! I tried using a pipe cutter once (it was about as sharp as a marble mind you), and it just spiralled up the seatpost. Why would they close the bottom of the seat post? I recon it's to keep your stash in -- Dandelion *joemarshall -* Be careful not to bugger the shifty shaft. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Dandelion's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/18515 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
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#72
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A warning on pipe-cutters
dunno Ken, sounds awfully unlucky or something else is going on. I have two KH36 frames here, and a bunch of seat posts all cut using a small pipe cutter. Zero problems with seat posts getting stuck. No force required to insert them, just some grease. Sorry I know that doesn't help you much! You are cutting your KH36 frames down right, don't know if anyone else is doing that. Is there a chance that is part of what is going on? As soon as you say (even limited) force is required to fit a seat post straight away I'm thinking trouble. Given the nature of things it's not surprising posts don't come out if they required even a relatively small amount of force to go in. I've lost track of which seat posts you are using too. How about trying the new KH posts... next time? -- lunicycle ------------------------------------------------------------------------ lunicycle's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/16926 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#73
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A warning on pipe-cutters
Thanks Mal, I'm using a Schlumpf aluminium seatpost. The other one that got stuck was a Cromoly Schlumpf seatpost. It is definitely not me cutting down the seat-tube that's causing the problem. It's quite loose up the top. It seems to taper down as you go further down the seatube...it's get's snugglier, but I never forced it! Every bike shop I've been to advises against using pipe-cutters. Many of them have a special hacksaw guide that they use to cut down seatposts with, and also a funky little orange juicer like tool used to clean up the tube afterwards. I managed to get the seatpost out today, with a bit of bashing it came out. I also did what Gerblefranklin suggested and laid it on the flat surface. You can see there is a gap between the post and the table. Not a huge amount, but enough to wedge it in there. You can see in the photo how much I've filed off the ends, yet it makes no difference because the taper/flare affects the whole tube. Throw away the pipe cutter and get a hacksaw guide. It'll save you alot of heartache and trouble. It's actually just as quick to cut down your post. +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ |Filename: seatpost.jpg | |Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/30999 | +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ -- GizmoDuck The Induni Unicycle Tour 2009. Unicycle Tour of India. Email me for details. www.induni.adventureunicyclist.com The Uninam Tour 2008.....Hanoi to Saigon!!! www.uninam.net The SINZ Unicycle Tour 2007....South Island, New Zealand www.sinzuni.org ------------------------------------------------------------------------ GizmoDuck's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/794 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#74
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A warning on pipe-cutters
gerblefranklin;1169577 wrote: This is silly. Really. Next time, before you insert the seatpost, put it on a flat table an look at it. You will easily be able to tell if it's flared. If it is, file it until it is not. I just did that. See my photo above. It's been pretty well filed, but the pipe cutter has actually warped the whole tube, so you'd have to file down the entire tube to get rid of the flare. -- GizmoDuck The Induni Unicycle Tour 2009. Unicycle Tour of India. Email me for details. www.induni.adventureunicyclist.com The Uninam Tour 2008.....Hanoi to Saigon!!! www.uninam.net The SINZ Unicycle Tour 2007....South Island, New Zealand www.sinzuni.org ------------------------------------------------------------------------ GizmoDuck's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/794 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#75
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A warning on pipe-cutters
GizmoDuck;1169703 wrote: Throw away the pipe cutter and get a hacksaw guide. It'll save you alot of heartache and trouble. It's actually just as quick to cut down your post. Next thing you will throw away your unicycle and get a bike! You don't have to listen to everything a bike mechanic tells you. Pipe cutters work very well on aluminium seatposts despite Ken's struggles. GizmoDuck;1169704 wrote: the pipe cutter has actually warped the whole tube, so you'd have to file down the entire tube to get rid of the flare. It did not! The pipe cutter does not have enough force to warp the entire tube. It cuts the end off and pushes a small amount of material up near the edge, which is easily filed or sanded off. It looks to me like your seatpost was already warped, or was warped by too much pressure in the seat clamp in your last frame perhaps. With the amount you struggle using simple hand tools Dr Ken, I wouldn't want to have you operating on me! -- Rowan ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Rowan's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/3772 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#76
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A warning on pipe-cutters
GizmoDuck;1169703 wrote: Throw away the pipe cutter and get a hacksaw guide. It'll save you alot of heartache and trouble. It's actually just as quick to cut down your post. There is nothing wrong with using a pipe cutter to trim a seat post, provided the pipe cutter is an appropriate size and it's used correctly. A hacksaw or whatever else works for people is ok too. Just cut the thing with whatever, clean it up sufficiently and get riding -- lunicycle ------------------------------------------------------------------------ lunicycle's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/16926 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#77
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A warning on pipe-cutters
Ken - looking at the pictures on the t7 thread, it looks like the problem might be less pipe cutters, but more because you're short, and you're cutting the seatpost too long. Just cut your seatpost a bit shorter, so it doesn't go right down to the bottom of the seat tube, and you should be okay. Or at least that's the case if KH36s are the same as KH frames always used to be, with the seat tube being not quite as long as it looks from the outside, as on the inside there is some reinforcement on the bottom bit, meaning you have to cut the post shorter. Pashleys used to be the same, and I had exactly the same problem once when I rode home with a broken seat clamp - the seatpost sticks into the reinforced bit, and it can really get solidly stuck. Joe -- joemarshall ' old pics' (http://tinyurl.com/56yl2f) 'new zealand pics' (http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o...rshall_photos/) 'new pics' (http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/joemarshall.org.uk) 'Where have I been riding? (GPS) ' (http://tinyurl.com/6fxw5x) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ joemarshall's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/1545 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#78
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A warning on pipe-cutters
For the record, I believe bike shops recommend against using pipe cutters because seatposts such as the thomson with non-round insides can be damaged and poorly cutoff with the use of a pipe cutter. I do not believe it is related to any percieved ability of the pipe cutter to damage the post more than a hacksaw (ever accidentally raked a hacksaw blade along the part? I know I have). Ken, That was not the distortion I was expecting to see, but it's certainly not good. I think that could be part of the cause of your problems, since the bending of the entire tube makes it seem as if it has a larger diameter than it does. In this case, filing, or other material removal methods are not the solution. I would place the seatpost on a press between a pair of v-blocks and straighten it. I was suggesting filing in the case where the post is flared. And I hate to criticize you (really), but unless there is something terribly wrong with your technique, the pipe cutter should not be causing the distortion pictured. It is also possible your seattube tapers at the bottom, but I would want a machinist (not a bike mechanic) to inspect it in person to be sure of that. As for how it got stuck with out undergoing significant force or chemical or thermal bonding somewhere, you got me. For the record, I do work at a machine shop where we have, on occasion, done bike parts. I have cut quite a few seatposts (among other things), with tools ranging from lathes, hacksaws, bandsaws, angle grinders, milling machines, and yes, pipe cutters. I personally used a pipe cutter for all of my own seatposts until mine fell into disrepair. Then I lost it. So now, when I'm desperate, I use a hacksaw and a file for deburring. Or, if I am less desperate, I use a hacksaw, and then square up the base on a faceplate sander or belt sander (not like the one used you your table). When I am doing a permanent shortening, I prefer to do the cutoff operation on my lathe, which is far more precise than necessary, but I do enjoy the results. The cutoff operation, if done incorrectly, can leave similar results to that of using a dull pipe cutter, however with a lathe, removal of the plastically deformed metal is easy-just take a skim cut or use a file (while the lathe is running) to remove it |
#79
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A warning on pipe-cutters
gerblefranklin;1169724 wrote: For the record, I believe bike shops recommend against using pipe cutters because seatposts such as the thomson with non-round insides can be damaged and poorly cutoff with the use of a pipe cutter. I do not believe it is related to any percieved ability of the pipe cutter to damage the post more than a hacksaw (ever accidentally raked a hacksaw blade along the part? I know I have). Ken, That was not the distortion I was expecting to see, but it's certainly not good. I think that could be part of the cause of your problems, since the bending of the entire tube makes it seem as if it has a larger diameter than it does. In this case, filing, or other material removal methods are not the solution. I would place the seatpost on a press between a pair of v-blocks and straighten it. I was suggesting filing in the case where the post is flared. And I hate to criticize you (really), but unless there is something terribly wrong with your technique, the pipe cutter should not be causing the distortion pictured. It is also possible your seattube tapers at the bottom, but I would want a machinist (not a bike mechanic) to inspect it in person to be sure of that. As for how it got stuck with out undergoing significant force or chemical or thermal bonding somewhere, you got me. For the record, I do work at a machine shop where we have, on occasion, done bike parts. I have cut quite a few seatposts (among other things), with tools ranging from lathes, hacksaws, bandsaws, angle grinders, milling machines, and yes, pipe cutters. I personally used a pipe cutter for all of my own seatposts until mine fell into disrepair. Then I lost it. So now, when I'm desperate, I use a hacksaw and a file for deburring. Or, if I am less desperate, I use a hacksaw, and then square up the base on a faceplate sander or belt sander (not like the one used you your table). When I am doing a permanent shortening, I prefer to do the cutoff operation on my lathe, which is far more precise than necessary, but I do enjoy the results. The cutoff operation, if done incorrectly, can leave similar results to that of using a dull pipe cutter, however with a lathe, removal of the plastically deformed metal is easy-just take a skim cut or use a file (while the lathe is running) to remove it . I would rank the preferable tools (when properly used) as follows (note, I am assuming you have a suitable half-round file to deburr with later): 1. Bandsaw with miter guage. For aluminum, a woodcutting bandsaw with a 10-14tpi blade on its slowest (or only) speed will work. For any other material (except if you somehow have a magnesium post), you need a bandsaw which can be slowed down to metal-cutting speeds. 2. Lathe, with partoff tool. 3. Pipe cutter. 4. Bandsaw without miter guage. 5. Hacksaw with vise. 6. Hacksaw with unicycle frame. 7. Angle grinder. 8. File alone (yes, it can be done, with enough time). I rate the angle grinder so low because many angle grinder cutoff wheels are not meant to run aluminum, and it is dangerous and bad for the wheel to cut aluminum with it. Inexperienced users (such as those who would find a list like this useful) also tend to overheat the base metal, which is not good for steels. I rate the pipe cutter below the bandsaw with miter guage because the pipe cutter is slower, and leaves more of a mark on the post than the bandsaw. Still, a pipe cutter is damn good at what it does. A hacksaw with a file for deburring is by far the most versatile, cheap, and effective. A hacksaw and file will cut pretty muh any material every used for a seatpost, including the "mighty" titanium. You don't need a jig. The base of the post doesn't need to be square (nobody's ever gonna see it). Just get it close, and go hit the trails. And remember, you are of course allowed to disagree with me. If pipe cutters make your life hell, don't use them. Just remember, even if others can make it work, if you can't, just do something else (or get in person help from an "expert", whomever that may be. Ugh, an essay. I hope it saves someone some trouble though. Hey Mr Gerble, Thanks for the detailed answer. And I love that it's followed by your sig line "just ride" Anyway, I won't be using a pipe cutter again. I didn't have the problem when I used a hacksaw and the bike shops hacksaw guide. The post that got stuck yesterday was cut by someone else...so I don't know what sort of pipe cutter they used. My last post before that was cut with a pipe cutter also, but the one I used had a really big wheel. So maybe that made it flare out even more. I don't have an angle grinder handy...but of course if you do, then why would you faff around with a hacksaw or pipe cutter? The bike shop told me they don't use pipe cutters because of the flaring....I remember my mechanic wrestling with a bike frame and seatpost clamped in a vice not that long ago (and cursing the customer who brought it in). Not sure of the reason it got stuck but they hate removing stuck seatposts Ken -- GizmoDuck The Induni Unicycle Tour 2009. Unicycle Tour of India. Email me for details. www.induni.adventureunicyclist.com The Uninam Tour 2008.....Hanoi to Saigon!!! www.uninam.net The SINZ Unicycle Tour 2007....South Island, New Zealand www.sinzuni.org ------------------------------------------------------------------------ GizmoDuck's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/794 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#80
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A warning on pipe-cutters
At least not if the world was full of rusted muffler clamps, pipes in places an arms length away with no room for a hack saw, or anything that ****es me off by existing somewhere I don't want it to. Why bother with pipe cutters, hack saws etc. ? 50 ish dollars and you have a saws all. It will not only cut a seat post effortlessly in seconds, but anything else in your life that needs to go. Don't waste the rest of your life without one of these. +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ |Filename: DSC01873.jpg | |Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/31005 | +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ -- feel the light ------------------------------------------------------------------------ feel the light's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/14551 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
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