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Mitigating crank failure



 
 
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  #11  
Old November 9th 05, 06:37 PM
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Default Mitigating crank failure

Russell Seaton writes:

Phil Lee used the term "invariably". The online dictionary says
invariably means "Not changing or subject to change; constant".
From the pictures above you can easily deduce that shoe rubbing is
not a constant/invariable beginning of cranks cracking. I think a
reading of the FAQ and Brandt's postings about cranks cracking would
provide a better cause and understanding than shoe rubbing. These
pictures are the ones found posted on this forum. I am sure there
are other pictures on the web showing all manner of crank failures.


There are more at:

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/

Jobst Brandt
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  #14  
Old November 9th 05, 08:37 PM
Ron Ruff
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Default Mitigating crank failure


john wrote:

I'm surprised at how little hollow there is in the "Hollow Tech". That
crank is 10% hollow and 90% crank. Hardly worth the effort, or expense.

Is this typical?


I think just at that location of the arm it essentally solid. It is
much more hollow in the middle.

  #16  
Old November 9th 05, 09:32 PM
Paul Kopit
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Default Mitigating crank failure

On Wed, 09 Nov 2005 12:04:01 -0500, dvt wrote:

Adding thickness to either side (shoe or crank) will just make shoe rub
more annoying. The only solution I'd consider is an increase in the
spacing. But many don't like a wider Q factor, so I guess we'd be stuck
with the lowest profile cranks available. Maybe the angle of the arm
could be adjusted, too.


The shape of different crankarms will make a difference in shoe
contacting the crank. Placement of the cleat in the shoe and type of
shoe can change distance between shoe and crankarm. Type of pedal
makes a difference. Shimano MTB pedals position the shoe a bit
further from the crankarm than road pedals. Washers between pedal and
crankarm move shoe away from arm. Wider Q doesn't necessarily put
shoe or ankle away from arm. Plastic laminating tape on the crankarm
protects it.

I've got big feet and don't like my cranks getting cosmetically
marked. I haven't had a crankarm fail because of rub...yet.
  #17  
Old November 9th 05, 10:57 PM
Jay Beattie
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Default Mitigating crank failure


wrote in message
...
Russell Seaton writes:

Phil Lee used the term "invariably". The online dictionary

says
invariably means "Not changing or subject to change;

constant".
From the pictures above you can easily deduce that shoe

rubbing is
not a constant/invariable beginning of cranks cracking. I

think a
reading of the FAQ and Brandt's postings about cranks

cracking would
provide a better cause and understanding than shoe rubbing.

These
pictures are the ones found posted on this forum. I am sure

there
are other pictures on the web showing all manner of crank

failures.

There are more at:

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/


So, is shoe rub (which causes polishing rather than scratches)
capable of causing or accelerating crank failure? -- Jay Beattie.


  #19  
Old November 9th 05, 11:34 PM
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Default Mitigating crank failure

after the last crank failure i rotored over to the LBS and asked for
the crank box
paleontology-worth the study-crank design!!!
picked out 4 and threw em in the bottom of toolbox 3
now i pray the CR stays
also see Crank saver in archives

  #20  
Old November 10th 05, 03:28 AM
jim beam
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Default Mitigating crank failure

jbuch wrote:
Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:

With another customer's broken crank coming in this week for
replacement, I've been thinking... is there a better solution to all
these broken cranks?

Crack propagation on cranks breaking at midsection is invariably
started with shoe rub. Since nobody would pay for cranks with a "shoe
rub shim" on it, why not sell shoes that have felt/terrycloth/foam
bits that cover the inside of the ankle? This would be unobtrusive,
could be dyed the color of the shoe, and cut down on deeper cuts in
the metal that would start cracks.

These shoes could be sold to the
radonneur/brevet/messenger/commuter/old fart group of riders that
would appreciate such a feature.

Thoughts?




If you are really into "high performaqnce components", I would suggest
that you remove the cranks and have them coated with synthetic diamond
or "diamond-like carbon" to increase wear resistance.

There are other hard wear resistant coatings that could be applied for
the lower cost or second quality level biking components.

you'd better not mention wear resistant anodizing on this group....

 




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