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#21
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What is the ideal cycling jacket (for UK commuting)
It sounds to me that even if I spend GBP 300 or 400+, the jacket
I seek simply doesnt really exist. From what everyone has been saying, that's right. If I'm concerned about staying warm/dry then I carry both the showerproof and the waterproof jacket. Both scrunch up well in a jersey rear pocket/small saddle bag. Normally I'll be wearing one of them anyway. |
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#22
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What is the ideal cycling jacket (for UK commuting)
"ship" wrote in message
oups.com... I have need something that is at least VERY showerproof - not very shower proof just wont cut it! The thing is yes, if the weather is looking *completely* dry then I can cheerfully wear my Pertex thing from Montane. It's quite visible being bright yellow, incredibly soft & compressible (good for packing away) and it keeps the wind down moderately. But if the weather is "spitting" a little (as opposed to a down-poor) then I need something much better then the pertex - which unless I've only just re-proofed it becomes pretty useless in actual *rain* of any sort. It sounds to me that even if I spend GBP 300 or 400+, the jacket I seek simply doesnt really exist. Yup. That's pretty much right. Somebody else gave a sensible answer : ride in a t-shirt you don't mind getting wet. Carry the work shirt in with you, and put it on when you ride. cheers, clive |
#23
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What is the ideal cycling jacket (for UK commuting)
in message . com, ship
') wrote: Hi What is the best cycling jacket for commuting (at reasonable speed in UK) I am looking for something that is: b) HIGHLY BREATHABLE a) Bright in colour /reflective at night c) ultra-Compact d) nearly(+) waterproof e) COOL Plus ideally: f) aerodyamic/elastic?? g) fairly durable? Budget: upto GBP 300. So far I can't find ANYTHING on the market that is remotely satisfactory. I've found something I'm entirely satisfied with, which meets with all your requirements except colour (it's very dark grey, although it has reflective logos). It's a Campagnolo 'windproof' jacket which weighs 108 grammes and packs down to half the size of a coke can. Although it's described as 'windproof' I've had it out in some pretty severe rain and not got wet. Wiggle were selling them off for thirty quid a few weeks ago but don't seem to have them any more; I'm not sure whether this: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/Default.aspx?ProdID=5360017362 is this year's version. -- (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/ Ye hypocrites! are these your pranks? To murder men and give God thanks? Desist, for shame! Proceed no further: God won't accept your thanks for murther -- Robert Burns, 'Thanksgiving For a National Victory' |
#24
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What is the ideal cycling jacket (for UK commuting)
On Mon, 16 Oct 2006 22:18:49 +0100, Simon Brooke wrote:
in message . com, ship ') wrote: b) HIGHLY BREATHABLE a) Bright in colour /reflective at night c) ultra-Compact d) nearly(+) waterproof e) COOL Plus ideally: f) aerodyamic/elastic?? g) fairly durable? Budget: upto GBP 300. well, at that budget you should be able to get something.... So far I can't find ANYTHING on the market that is remotely satisfactory. IĀ*have found that GorTex takes care of all my needs. I have a bright-yellow jacket made out of that (branded Gore Bike-Ware), which has kept me dry commuting for the past 2 years, no problem. Is it "cool"? Well, that is subjective. But it works, and it breathes -- helped along by pit-vents and a back vent, of course. I also have a wind-parka that is more compact, but my experience with such things is that they do not stop a determined rain. The rain jacket was (US) $120 or so, and the windbreaker was $40, well under your budget. I've found something I'm entirely satisfied with, which meets with all your requirements except colour (it's very dark grey, although it has reflective logos). That is, frankly, a bad decision on someone's part. Night-riding garments, and rain garments, need to be brightly colored as well as reflective. Reflective strips alone lead drivers to say "What the hell was that?" _after_ they run you down. -- David L. Johnson __o | When you are up to your ass in alligators, it's hard to remember _`\(,_ | that your initial objective was to drain the swamp. -- LBJ (_)/ (_) | |
#25
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What is the ideal cycling jacket (for UK commuting)
In article ,
Peter Clinch wrote: ship wrote: But maybe the answer could lie in very sophisticated venting. e.g. under-arm vents. That's not sophisticated though. Hot air rises, and under arm vents are pointing in the wrong direction. Of course, if they point the right way the rain gets in... Because the cyclist is moving, the fact that the underarm vents point down is not misses the point because convection is not the mechanism of air movement. The cyclist creates an effective breeze which can be used to move air and ventilate the jacket. There are several possible venting locations, with intake vents at the sleeve cuffs, underarm vents and possibly the neck. Exhaust vents can be across the shoulder blades and the bottom hem. Double ended front zips are also helpful. IME underarm vents only are inadequate; there has to be air inflow up the arms, in under the armpitss and out the back of the jacket. As I mentioned earlier, my Showers Pass jacket makes better use of ventilation than any other jacket I have worn. My clothing remains quite dry. I bought mine after very positive reports from friends who had Showers Pass jackets on a 200 km brevet in pouring rain; whereas I was a soaked inside my jacket from sweat as if I had just ridden in the rain, they were practically dry and very comfortable. I've not had occasion to wear it for 8+ hours on a ride in the rain, but for an hour or two I have been pleased to find myself quite dry. |
#26
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What is the ideal cycling jacket (for UK commuting)
Art Harris writes:
I am looking for something that is: b) HIGHLY BREATHABLE a) Bright in colour /reflective at night c) ultra-Compact d) nearly(+) waterproof e) COOL Plus ideally: f) aerodyamic/elastic?? g) fairly durable? Budget: upto GBP 300. "Waterproof" and "breathable" are mutually exclusive terms that no amount of money will reconcile. Best advice is to get a decent "water resistant" thin windbreaker with vented back and arm pits. Here in the US, I bought an inexpensive Hind jacket a few years ago that's OK for light rain, but not a heavy downpour. I'm with you on that except that I use my parka on my summer tour in the Alps where it can snow any day of the year and often does as you can see from the pictures at: http://www.paloaltobicycles.com/alps_photos.html For that reason I have a more stringent rule on what works. 1. It must be water proof. 2. It must have a hood that can be cinched down so that only eyes and nose are exposed. 3. It should be double layered, the inner layer can be mesh but must insulate the outer skin from the rider's arms to prevent freezing hands. 4. Velcro closure on sleeves and over the zipper down the front. 5. No vents or slots. Climbing can be done with the front partially open even in rain. 6. No Gore-Tex, the outer layer of which gets wet and doesn't dry readily, and the same goes for condensation on the inside. Breathing is illusory for someone climbing hills on a bicycle. 7. Bonus: Stiff and tight fitting enough so it does not flap in the wind when descending. Flapping sleeves and body is the greatest loss of warmth from forced convection. Next time when descending, hold the arms so the jacket remains still and notice how much warmer it is. Unfortunately, the people who make bicycle jackets haven't tried descending a 20km alpine pass when it's snowing... or at least not with an understanding of why it is as cold as it is. Most jackets have no adequate neck and head covering and have a body to hold Santa Clause with many layers of clothing. Jobst Brandt |
#28
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What is the ideal cycling jacket (for UK commuting)
In article ,
wrote: I'm with you on that except that I use my parka on my summer tour in the Alps where it can snow any day of the year and often does as you can see from the pictures at: http://www.paloaltobicycles.com/alps_photos.html For that reason I have a more stringent rule on what works. 1. It must be water proof. 2. It must have a hood that can be cinched down so that only eyes and nose are exposed. 3. It should be double layered, the inner layer can be mesh but must insulate the outer skin from the rider's arms to prevent freezing hands. 4. Velcro closure on sleeves and over the zipper down the front. 5. No vents or slots. Climbing can be done with the front partially open even in rain. 6. No Gore-Tex, the outer layer of which gets wet and doesn't dry readily, and the same goes for condensation on the inside. Breathing is illusory for someone climbing hills on a bicycle. 7. Bonus: Stiff and tight fitting enough so it does not flap in the wind when descending. Flapping sleeves and body is the greatest loss of warmth from forced convection. Next time when descending, hold the arms so the jacket remains still and notice how much warmer it is. Unfortunately, the people who make bicycle jackets haven't tried descending a 20km alpine pass when it's snowing... or at least not with an understanding of why it is as cold as it is. Most jackets have no adequate neck and head covering and have a body to hold Santa Clause with many layers of clothing. Sounds good! So what's the best product you've found that matches the requirements? Any cuts for the product endorsement? -- |
#29
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What is the ideal cycling jacket (for UK commuting)
In article ,
wrote: On Tue, 17 Oct 2006 03:04:52 GMT, Artoi wrote: In article , wrote: I'm with you on that except that I use my parka on my summer tour in the Alps where it can snow any day of the year and often does as you can see from the pictures at: http://www.paloaltobicycles.com/alps_photos.html For that reason I have a more stringent rule on what works. 1. It must be water proof. 2. It must have a hood that can be cinched down so that only eyes and nose are exposed. 3. It should be double layered, the inner layer can be mesh but must insulate the outer skin from the rider's arms to prevent freezing hands. 4. Velcro closure on sleeves and over the zipper down the front. 5. No vents or slots. Climbing can be done with the front partially open even in rain. 6. No Gore-Tex, the outer layer of which gets wet and doesn't dry readily, and the same goes for condensation on the inside. Breathing is illusory for someone climbing hills on a bicycle. 7. Bonus: Stiff and tight fitting enough so it does not flap in the wind when descending. Flapping sleeves and body is the greatest loss of warmth from forced convection. Next time when descending, hold the arms so the jacket remains still and notice how much warmer it is. Unfortunately, the people who make bicycle jackets haven't tried descending a 20km alpine pass when it's snowing... or at least not with an understanding of why it is as cold as it is. Most jackets have no adequate neck and head covering and have a body to hold Santa Clause with many layers of clothing. Sounds good! So what's the best product you've found that matches the requirements? Any cuts for the product endorsement? http://www.rus-sell.com/item7932-sov...ench+coat.html Nice and warm. But I couldn't see whether there's velcro on those lovely cuffs. :P -- |
#30
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What is the ideal cycling jacket (for UK commuting)
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