material to do clamps

On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 14:08:30 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2016-07-13 14:01, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/13/2016 4:57 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-07-13 12:08, Emanuel Berg wrote:
John B. writes:

But do buy yourself a 4 inch angle grinder,
with some 1mm cut-off wheels and some sanding
disks for finishing. Nice cleanly cut ends
with maybe a bit of rounding looks so much
nicer than them old scraggly broken off ends
:-)

OK, I have an "angle grinder"! I don't know if
it is 4 inch tho. I just didn't recognize the
English name. Which is interesting because it
is the same in Swedish, "vinkelslip".

Aaanyway, I don't think I'll ever use that for
cutting this miniature thing! It is only 1 inch
in height and the thickness is, I think,
1/32 inch.


Real Vikings only need one thwack with their battle ax to do that :-)


The ends look good! They are sharper than the
original edges yes, but not that sharp.
For anyone to cut anything with it, the skill
of a samurai probably will be just enough.


Until one fine day there is a surprise sheet of ice on the road and ...

Danger!


That is what a guy thought who made a MTB fender out of a chunk of ABS
he had laying around and didn't bother to invest the 10 minutes to round
the edges. When he crashed it slit deep into a calf muscle.

Yes. And there are examples of a piece of straw being driven into a
palm tree during a tornado too, but not very often :-)

Didn't you claim to be a "cycling instructor" and then you are so
careless about risks that are very simple and easy to avoid?
--
cheers,

John B.

John B. writes:

Yes. And there are examples of a piece of
straw being driven into a palm tree during
a tornado too, but not very often :-)

For a fender I think you could make the case it
is a danger having somewhat sharp edges, not
only in accidents but also when you move the
bike around (e.g., putting it upside down on
a table), for this ~1 cm^2 piece it is more
like a principle doing the right thing when it
doesn't matter hopefully means you'll do the
right thing when it does matter, and you'll be
better at it because of the practise, and in
the meantime you don't have to think about
whether to do it or not, instead you just do it
- more relaxed. So the file and sand-paper
solution will work out fine I think

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 57 Blogomatic articles -

On 7/13/2016 5:08 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-07-13 14:01, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/13/2016 4:57 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-07-13 12:08, Emanuel Berg wrote:
John B. writes:

But do buy yourself a 4 inch angle grinder,
with some 1mm cut-off wheels and some sanding
disks for finishing. Nice cleanly cut ends
with maybe a bit of rounding looks so much
nicer than them old scraggly broken off ends
:-)

OK, I have an "angle grinder"! I don't know if
it is 4 inch tho. I just didn't recognize the
English name. Which is interesting because it
is the same in Swedish, "vinkelslip".

Aaanyway, I don't think I'll ever use that for
cutting this miniature thing! It is only 1 inch
in height and the thickness is, I think,
1/32 inch.


Real Vikings only need one thwack with their battle ax to do that :-)


The ends look good! They are sharper than the
original edges yes, but not that sharp.
For anyone to cut anything with it, the skill
of a samurai probably will be just enough.


Until one fine day there is a surprise sheet of ice on the road and ...

Danger!


That is what a guy thought who made a MTB fender out of a chunk of ABS
he had laying around and didn't bother to invest the 10 minutes to round
the edges. When he crashed it slit deep into a calf muscle.

Amazing! Razor sharp ABS! This sounds like bad news for airport
security. Sounds like anyone could carry on a homemade plastic fender,
then start decapitating passengers left and right. I had no idea
plastic was so dangerous!

Didn't you claim to be a "cycling instructor" and then you are so
careless about risks that are very simple and easy to avoid?

I admit, there are some dangers that I don't worry about. Fortunately,
there are enough people like you that enthusiastically worry about every
conceivable danger, plus many inconceivable ones.

Thank you for your service!

--
- Frank Krygowski

sms writes:

Not sure what he's doing to the fenders with
that. I have several bikes with fenders and
have never had any bolts for the fender
clamps break.

On standard bikes - e.g.,

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/26-damcykel.jpg
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/vit-damcykel.jpg

- the fender stays go on the inside of the
fender where they make an upward open loop.
There is a corresponding hole in the fender (or
one can drill one, stringing the fender to
a mallet which is put in a vise) - in that
hole and thru the loop there is most often an
M6 (or M5) on the outside with a lock nut on
the inside, sometimes with washers in different
arrangements in between.

This is very sturdy and straightening out the
fender stays with hand power is very easy.

However on other bikes - for example the Czech
Favorit:

http://oldtenspeedgallery.com/blog/w...0-speed-05.jpg

(not my bike by the way)

- on these bikes the stays go on the outside of
the fenders, and there is a special bolt to
hold them. Sometimes it is in metal and
sometimes metal with a plastic detail on top.

Both are very fragile and if they ain't broke
when you get the bike, often it is enough for
you to straighten the stay for them to break!

Such bolts are nothing I have lying around
which is why a canonical way to fix it would be
good to have...

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 57 Blogomatic articles -

On 2016-07-13 19:42, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/13/2016 5:08 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-07-13 14:01, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/13/2016 4:57 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-07-13 12:08, Emanuel Berg wrote:
John B. writes:

But do buy yourself a 4 inch angle grinder,
with some 1mm cut-off wheels and some sanding
disks for finishing. Nice cleanly cut ends
with maybe a bit of rounding looks so much
nicer than them old scraggly broken off ends
:-)

OK, I have an "angle grinder"! I don't know if
it is 4 inch tho. I just didn't recognize the
English name. Which is interesting because it
is the same in Swedish, "vinkelslip".

Aaanyway, I don't think I'll ever use that for
cutting this miniature thing! It is only 1 inch
in height and the thickness is, I think,
1/32 inch.


Real Vikings only need one thwack with their battle ax to do that :-)


The ends look good! They are sharper than the
original edges yes, but not that sharp.
For anyone to cut anything with it, the skill
of a samurai probably will be just enough.


Until one fine day there is a surprise sheet of ice on the road and ...

Danger!


That is what a guy thought who made a MTB fender out of a chunk of ABS
he had laying around and didn't bother to invest the 10 minutes to round
the edges. When he crashed it slit deep into a calf muscle.

Amazing! Razor sharp ABS! This sounds like bad news for airport
security. Sounds like anyone could carry on a homemade plastic fender,
then start decapitating passengers left and right. I had no idea
plastic was so dangerous!

Didn't you claim to be a "cycling instructor" and then you are so
careless about risks that are very simple and easy to avoid?

I admit, there are some dangers that I don't worry about. Fortunately,
there are enough people like you that enthusiastically worry about every
conceivable danger, plus many inconceivable ones.

Thank you for your service!


Another free piece of advice since you are an ME: Do not design any
enclosures with that attitude, certainly not for consumer equipment.
Because that can put you one lawsuit away from financial ruin or a
serious charge for your employer.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2016-07-13 16:02, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 15:45:33 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

John B. writes:

I can't tell from your photo but is it some
sort of black finish on the metal itself
or paint?

No, it is just metal on a white piece of paper,
if it looks like some black finish it is some
photovisual side effect.

It is indeed a piece of pipe hanging strap as
suggested!

But do buy yourself a 4 inch angle grinder,
with some 1mm cut-off wheels and some sanding
disks for finishing. Nice cleanly cut ends
with maybe a bit of rounding looks so much
nicer than them old scraggly broken off ends
:-)

OK, perhaps this month even if they aren't too
expensive. How much are they in Thailand?
I suppose not that different from in the west
tho relatively speaking they are still cheaper
because everything else is much cheaper (e.g.,
food) so you have more money to put
on hardware, right?

You can buy Chinese made tools for very cheap prices here but quality
varies a great deal. I bought a "no name" 4" grinder from a sidewalk
vendor maybe 15 - 20 years ago and it still works perfectly. A friend
bought an "electric screwdriver" and it didn't work when he got it
home.

I'm off downtown this morning and will check current prices just as a
matter of interest.


If ok with a Chinese angle grinder they are around $15 plus tax in the
US, shouldn't cost more in Thailand:

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in...der-69645.html

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2016-07-13 16:46, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 21:08:29 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

John B. writes:

But do buy yourself a 4 inch angle grinder,
with some 1mm cut-off wheels and some sanding
disks for finishing. Nice cleanly cut ends
with maybe a bit of rounding looks so much
nicer than them old scraggly broken off ends
:-)

OK, I have an "angle grinder"! I don't know if
it is 4 inch tho. I just didn't recognize the
English name. Which is interesting because it
is the same in Swedish, "vinkelslip".

Well, generally speaking, angle grinders some in two sizes, big ones,
that are likely 8 inch diameter wheels, and small ones that are about
4 inch (technically 4.5"). Get some 1mm thick cut-off wheels and some
"flap sanding disks", say 100 grit to 40 grit. see
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXXM6i3FJ5s
Note: the very thin cut-of wheels break fairly easily but the broken
pieces are so light that they usually do not anything.

Aaanyway, I don't think I'll ever use that for
cutting this miniature thing! It is only 1 inch
in height and the thickness is, I think,
1/32 inch.

The ends look good! They are sharper than the
original edges yes, but not that sharp.
For anyone to cut anything with it, the skill
of a samurai probably will be just enough.

It isn't a matter of sharp, It is a matter of the beauty of a
precisely machined part :-)


Like the beauty of my road bike head set fix :-)

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG

And it really works, better than ever ...

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Joerg writes:

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG

Indeed, hose clamps is another option for doing
lots of stuff...

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 58 Blogomatic articles -

On 7/14/2016 10:13 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
sms writes:

Not sure what he's doing to the fenders with
that. I have several bikes with fenders and
have never had any bolts for the fender
clamps break.

On standard bikes - e.g.,

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/26-damcykel.jpg
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/vit-damcykel.jpg

- the fender stays go on the inside of the
fender where they make an upward open loop.
There is a corresponding hole in the fender (or
one can drill one, stringing the fender to
a mallet which is put in a vise) - in that
hole and thru the loop there is most often an
M6 (or M5) on the outside with a lock nut on
the inside, sometimes with washers in different
arrangements in between.

This is very sturdy and straightening out the
fender stays with hand power is very easy.

However on other bikes - for example the Czech
Favorit:

http://oldtenspeedgallery.com/blog/w...0-speed-05.jpg

(not my bike by the way)

- on these bikes the stays go on the outside of
the fenders, and there is a special bolt to
hold them. Sometimes it is in metal and
sometimes metal with a plastic detail on top.

Both are very fragile and if they ain't broke
when you get the bike, often it is enough for
you to straighten the stay for them to break!

Such bolts are nothing I have lying around
which is why a canonical way to fix it would be
good to have...

I'm not sure about what makes the difference in strength between those
two arrangements. On all the bike fenders in our house (they're on
almost every bike) the fenders have sheet steel brackets riveted to the
fender itself. The outer sides of those brackets end in "ears" with
holes for (slightly special) fender eye bolts. The fender stays have
loops at the dropout, held in place with M5 screws. The stays are
straight at the end attaching to the fender, and pass through a hole in
the fender eye bolts.

Here are images:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/S...ndIMG_4322.JPG
and
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/f...07drawbolt.jpg
Note that this means there is no continuous stay wrapping around the
fender from the left to the right side. But the metal bracket gives
adequate rigidity.

A few of our bikes have plastic fenders from Planet Bike, and those have
no metal connecting the left stay to the right stay. Each clamps
independently to the plastic. I find this gives too little lateral
stiffness. The fender tends to rattle more against the tire. I keep
intending to convert to one continuous left-to-right stay, as on the
bikes in your photos. But I wasn't aware of any strength problem.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On 7/14/2016 10:20 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-07-13 19:42, Frank Krygowski wrote:

I admit, there are some dangers that I don't worry about. Fortunately,
there are enough people like you that enthusiastically worry about every
conceivable danger, plus many inconceivable ones.

Thank you for your service!


Another free piece of advice since you are an ME: Do not design any
enclosures with that attitude, certainly not for consumer equipment.
Because that can put you one lawsuit away from financial ruin or a
serious charge for your employer.

Related: I'm on the board of commissioners for our little local nature
preserve.

Some woman's grandson was horsing around with friends, fell into the
creek and got a cut. His cut got infected. She attacked Village
Council, saying "That water's polluted! You must never let anyone in
the water!"

Council had the water tested. Final results are not in, but preliminary
results say the water is fine. But the village's liability-paranoid
lawyer said "We must put up warning signs!"

So the forest preserve now has several signs saying "DO NOT ENTER OR
DRINK THE WATER!"

On a recent hike, I said "Hey! Feel the edge of this sign! We need
another sign saying 'WARNING! SIGN EDGES ARE SHARP!!'"

.... and where does it end?

--
- Frank Krygowski