Park Tools

On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 21:44:39 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 8/24/2020 6:32 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 16:13:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 8/24/2020 2:26 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, August 22, 2020 at 11:05:40 AM UTC-7, Sock Puppet wrote:
On 22/08/2020 17:21, Tom Kunich wrote:

Tools like the Park cable cutters are superior to Pedro because they
cut the outer cables cleanly and straight while the Pedro tried to cut
at an angle commensurate with the winding of the steel outer cable.
I recently bought a cheap rotary tool (Dremel clone) for ~20 GBP, for
non bike stuff, but the results cutting outer cables were perfect.
I don't know how to respond to that. Using power tools to work on bikes
has never been my practice.


You should try it. A Dremel and an abrasive cutoff disk give marvellous
clean cuts on cables and housing.


We like Felco cutters for wire and gear casing but if you
look closely at factory setups they're clearly using a
cutoff disc.

We're frequently in odd spaces at odd angles. Factory is
slicing hundreds of alike sections with a gauge or stop
block or whatever.

Although granted this may seem like being too particular but I do
examine the cut end of the cable as a dull "cutter" may bend some of
the casing toward the center and I find that can impair the easy entry
of the inner cable and I have found more then one "self installed"
cable to have this problem.

Since it takes a minute to open the Dremel case and plug it in, I
usually cut housing with a cable cutter then grind square with the bench
grinder. It's ready immediately and three feet away. With lined cable
housing, I then poke in a scribe tool to open the end of the
heat-softened liner.

Yes, I occasionally do that but I was thinking of when one is
replacing all the cables. Building up a new bike for instance. Where
you are holding up a several meter length of cable and sort of marking
the cur off point with your thumb. If you handle it right you have the
cable in one hand and the cable cutters in the other and you just
"snip". By the way, I have a pair of "cheap Chinese Cable Cutters",
similar to Park Tools offering, that I bought locally for the
equivalent of US$8.00. I've been using them for two years now although
admittedly I am not cutting cables on a daily basis.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 4:29:42 PM UTC+1, AMuzi wrote:

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/fire4.jpg
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/fire5.jpg

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Very dramatic photos, Master Muzi. -- AJ

My bike is too sophisticated to require a cable cutter.

Andre Jute
One less thing to be bothered about

On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 8:44:43 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/24/2020 6:32 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 16:13:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 8/24/2020 2:26 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, August 22, 2020 at 11:05:40 AM UTC-7, Sock Puppet wrote:
On 22/08/2020 17:21, Tom Kunich wrote:

Tools like the Park cable cutters are superior to Pedro because they
cut the outer cables cleanly and straight while the Pedro tried to cut
at an angle commensurate with the winding of the steel outer cable..
I recently bought a cheap rotary tool (Dremel clone) for ~20 GBP, for
non bike stuff, but the results cutting outer cables were perfect.
I don't know how to respond to that. Using power tools to work on bikes
has never been my practice.


You should try it. A Dremel and an abrasive cutoff disk give marvellous
clean cuts on cables and housing.


We like Felco cutters for wire and gear casing but if you
look closely at factory setups they're clearly using a
cutoff disc.

We're frequently in odd spaces at odd angles. Factory is
slicing hundreds of alike sections with a gauge or stop
block or whatever.

Although granted this may seem like being too particular but I do
examine the cut end of the cable as a dull "cutter" may bend some of
the casing toward the center and I find that can impair the easy entry
of the inner cable and I have found more then one "self installed"
cable to have this problem.
Since it takes a minute to open the Dremel case and plug it in, I
usually cut housing with a cable cutter then grind square with the bench
grinder. It's ready immediately and three feet away. With lined cable
housing, I then poke in a scribe tool to open the end of the
heat-softened liner.


--
- Frank Krygowski

Agree. I have a Park cable cutter, which I use to cut housing. I think I cut the actual cable with my Klein diagonal cutters. Then smooth the housing end with the side of the grinding wheel. 8 inch 120 grit white wheel. Quality wheel, not one of those garbage gray concrete wheels that come stock on most bench grinders.

On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 10:54:05 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 8:44:43 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/24/2020 6:32 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 16:13:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 8/24/2020 2:26 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, August 22, 2020 at 11:05:40 AM UTC-7, Sock Puppet wrote:
On 22/08/2020 17:21, Tom Kunich wrote:

Tools like the Park cable cutters are superior to Pedro because they
cut the outer cables cleanly and straight while the Pedro tried to cut
at an angle commensurate with the winding of the steel outer cable.
I recently bought a cheap rotary tool (Dremel clone) for ~20 GBP, for
non bike stuff, but the results cutting outer cables were perfect..
I don't know how to respond to that. Using power tools to work on bikes
has never been my practice.


You should try it. A Dremel and an abrasive cutoff disk give marvellous
clean cuts on cables and housing.


We like Felco cutters for wire and gear casing but if you
look closely at factory setups they're clearly using a
cutoff disc.

We're frequently in odd spaces at odd angles. Factory is
slicing hundreds of alike sections with a gauge or stop
block or whatever.

Although granted this may seem like being too particular but I do
examine the cut end of the cable as a dull "cutter" may bend some of
the casing toward the center and I find that can impair the easy entry
of the inner cable and I have found more then one "self installed"
cable to have this problem.
Since it takes a minute to open the Dremel case and plug it in, I
usually cut housing with a cable cutter then grind square with the bench
grinder. It's ready immediately and three feet away. With lined cable
housing, I then poke in a scribe tool to open the end of the
heat-softened liner.


--
- Frank Krygowski
Agree. I have a Park cable cutter, which I use to cut housing. I think I cut the actual cable with my Klein diagonal cutters. Then smooth the housing end with the side of the grinding wheel. 8 inch 120 grit white wheel. Quality wheel, not one of those garbage gray concrete wheels that come stock on most bench grinders.
If you're putting the outer into a cable end why would you bother?

And as information - without anything other than a couple of pictures of the damage, Park Tool is honoring their lifetime limited warranty and sending me a new handle for my chain breaker. Even the My Pillow guy (Mike Lindell) took several weeks to replace My Pillow after I washed it and it started mildewing. After that I was careful to only take them to commercial laundromats that could fully dry them out in commercial sized dryers.

On Thursday, August 27, 2020 at 8:44:06 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 10:54:05 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 8:44:43 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/24/2020 6:32 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 16:13:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 8/24/2020 2:26 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, August 22, 2020 at 11:05:40 AM UTC-7, Sock Puppet wrote:
On 22/08/2020 17:21, Tom Kunich wrote:

Tools like the Park cable cutters are superior to Pedro because they
cut the outer cables cleanly and straight while the Pedro tried to cut
at an angle commensurate with the winding of the steel outer cable.
I recently bought a cheap rotary tool (Dremel clone) for ~20 GBP, for
non bike stuff, but the results cutting outer cables were perfect.
I don't know how to respond to that. Using power tools to work on bikes
has never been my practice.


You should try it. A Dremel and an abrasive cutoff disk give marvellous
clean cuts on cables and housing.


We like Felco cutters for wire and gear casing but if you
look closely at factory setups they're clearly using a
cutoff disc.

We're frequently in odd spaces at odd angles. Factory is
slicing hundreds of alike sections with a gauge or stop
block or whatever.

Although granted this may seem like being too particular but I do
examine the cut end of the cable as a dull "cutter" may bend some of
the casing toward the center and I find that can impair the easy entry
of the inner cable and I have found more then one "self installed"
cable to have this problem.
Since it takes a minute to open the Dremel case and plug it in, I
usually cut housing with a cable cutter then grind square with the bench
grinder. It's ready immediately and three feet away. With lined cable
housing, I then poke in a scribe tool to open the end of the
heat-softened liner.


--
- Frank Krygowski
Agree. I have a Park cable cutter, which I use to cut housing. I think I cut the actual cable with my Klein diagonal cutters. Then smooth the housing end with the side of the grinding wheel. 8 inch 120 grit white wheel. Quality wheel, not one of those garbage gray concrete wheels that come stock on most bench grinders.
If you're putting the outer into a cable end why would you bother?

And as information - without anything other than a couple of pictures of the damage, Park Tool is honoring their lifetime limited warranty and sending me a new handle for my chain breaker. Even the My Pillow guy (Mike Lindell) took several weeks to replace My Pillow after I washed it and it started mildewing. After that I was careful to only take them to commercial laundromats that could fully dry them out in commercial sized dryers.
I bought a Chinese chain breaker since it would get here probably before the Park Tool replacement. And it did. I broke the 11 speed chain in one spot and it was too slack so I tried to break the chain three more links up and the tool bent and broke the tool. 11 speed chains are tough SOB's and you have to be particularly careful with the tools.

On Thursday, August 27, 2020 at 10:44:06 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 10:54:05 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 8:44:43 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/24/2020 6:32 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 16:13:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 8/24/2020 2:26 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, August 22, 2020 at 11:05:40 AM UTC-7, Sock Puppet wrote:
On 22/08/2020 17:21, Tom Kunich wrote:

Tools like the Park cable cutters are superior to Pedro because they
cut the outer cables cleanly and straight while the Pedro tried to cut
at an angle commensurate with the winding of the steel outer cable.
I recently bought a cheap rotary tool (Dremel clone) for ~20 GBP, for
non bike stuff, but the results cutting outer cables were perfect.
I don't know how to respond to that. Using power tools to work on bikes
has never been my practice.


You should try it. A Dremel and an abrasive cutoff disk give marvellous
clean cuts on cables and housing.


We like Felco cutters for wire and gear casing but if you
look closely at factory setups they're clearly using a
cutoff disc.

We're frequently in odd spaces at odd angles. Factory is
slicing hundreds of alike sections with a gauge or stop
block or whatever.

Although granted this may seem like being too particular but I do
examine the cut end of the cable as a dull "cutter" may bend some of
the casing toward the center and I find that can impair the easy entry
of the inner cable and I have found more then one "self installed"
cable to have this problem.
Since it takes a minute to open the Dremel case and plug it in, I
usually cut housing with a cable cutter then grind square with the bench
grinder. It's ready immediately and three feet away. With lined cable
housing, I then poke in a scribe tool to open the end of the
heat-softened liner.


--
- Frank Krygowski
Agree. I have a Park cable cutter, which I use to cut housing. I think I cut the actual cable with my Klein diagonal cutters. Then smooth the housing end with the side of the grinding wheel. 8 inch 120 grit white wheel. Quality wheel, not one of those garbage gray concrete wheels that come stock on most bench grinders.
If you're putting the outer into a cable end why would you bother?


Because I do things correctly. Sloppy, trashy work is sloppy and trashy. Not something I have ever done. By your logic, only a fool would put finish paint and clearcoat on the underside of the bottom bracket. Why would you put anything other than a coat of primer on the bottom of the bottom bracket? Its never seen. Yet I suspect you would scream your head off on this forum if you bought a new Trek or Specialized with a crap paint job under the bottom bracket.







And as information - without anything other than a couple of pictures of the damage, Park Tool is honoring their lifetime limited warranty and sending me a new handle for my chain breaker. Even the My Pillow guy (Mike Lindell) took several weeks to replace My Pillow after I washed it and it started mildewing. After that I was careful to only take them to commercial laundromats that could fully dry them out in commercial sized dryers.

On Sunday, 30 August 2020 03:43:06 UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, August 27, 2020 at 10:44:06 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 10:54:05 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 8:44:43 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/24/2020 6:32 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 16:13:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 8/24/2020 2:26 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, August 22, 2020 at 11:05:40 AM UTC-7, Sock Puppet wrote:
On 22/08/2020 17:21, Tom Kunich wrote:

Tools like the Park cable cutters are superior to Pedro because they
cut the outer cables cleanly and straight while the Pedro tried to cut
at an angle commensurate with the winding of the steel outer cable.
I recently bought a cheap rotary tool (Dremel clone) for ~20 GBP, for
non bike stuff, but the results cutting outer cables were perfect.
I don't know how to respond to that. Using power tools to work on bikes
has never been my practice.


You should try it. A Dremel and an abrasive cutoff disk give marvellous
clean cuts on cables and housing.


We like Felco cutters for wire and gear casing but if you
look closely at factory setups they're clearly using a
cutoff disc.

We're frequently in odd spaces at odd angles. Factory is
slicing hundreds of alike sections with a gauge or stop
block or whatever.

Although granted this may seem like being too particular but I do
examine the cut end of the cable as a dull "cutter" may bend some of
the casing toward the center and I find that can impair the easy entry
of the inner cable and I have found more then one "self installed"
cable to have this problem.
Since it takes a minute to open the Dremel case and plug it in, I
usually cut housing with a cable cutter then grind square with the bench
grinder. It's ready immediately and three feet away. With lined cable
housing, I then poke in a scribe tool to open the end of the
heat-softened liner.


--
- Frank Krygowski
Agree. I have a Park cable cutter, which I use to cut housing. I think I cut the actual cable with my Klein diagonal cutters. Then smooth the housing end with the side of the grinding wheel. 8 inch 120 grit white wheel. Quality wheel, not one of those garbage gray concrete wheels that come stock on most bench grinders.
If you're putting the outer into a cable end why would you bother?


Because I do things correctly. Sloppy, trashy work is sloppy and trashy. Not something I have ever done. By your logic, only a fool would put finish paint and clearcoat on the underside of the bottom bracket. Why would you put anything other than a coat of primer on the bottom of the bottom bracket? Its never seen. Yet I suspect you would scream your head off on this forum if you bought a new Trek or Specialized with a crap paint job under the bottom bracket.







And as information - without anything other than a couple of pictures of the damage, Park Tool is honoring their lifetime limited warranty and sending me a new handle for my chain breaker. Even the My Pillow guy (Mike Lindell) took several weeks to replace My Pillow after I washed it and it started mildewing. After that I was careful to only take them to commercial laundromats that could fully dry them out in commercial sized dryers.

A bicycle shop I worked at in the 1980s had us disconnect all cables, remove the ferrules and check that the ends of cable housings were square. New ferrules were then added. Inner cables (before Teflon lined housings) were lubed with a light grease. We also squeezed brake levers hard to fully seat everything and to make sure the ferrule would hold up.

There is on substitute for a job really well done.

Cheers

On 27/08/2020 16:44, Tom Kunich wrote:

If you're putting the outer into a cable end why would you bother?


Because an uneven/non-square cable may allow the ferrule to move under
compression, leading to a springy effect.

How large this compression effect is in practice, I don't know, but it
clearly could have an effect, particularly with pathologically bad cuts.

On 8/30/2020 4:43 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, 30 August 2020 03:43:06 UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, August 27, 2020 at 10:44:06 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 10:54:05 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 8:44:43 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/24/2020 6:32 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 16:13:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 8/24/2020 2:26 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, August 22, 2020 at 11:05:40 AM UTC-7, Sock Puppet wrote:
On 22/08/2020 17:21, Tom Kunich wrote:

Tools like the Park cable cutters are superior to Pedro because they
cut the outer cables cleanly and straight while the Pedro tried to cut
at an angle commensurate with the winding of the steel outer cable.
I recently bought a cheap rotary tool (Dremel clone) for ~20 GBP, for
non bike stuff, but the results cutting outer cables were perfect.
I don't know how to respond to that. Using power tools to work on bikes
has never been my practice.


You should try it. A Dremel and an abrasive cutoff disk give marvellous
clean cuts on cables and housing.


We like Felco cutters for wire and gear casing but if you
look closely at factory setups they're clearly using a
cutoff disc.

We're frequently in odd spaces at odd angles. Factory is
slicing hundreds of alike sections with a gauge or stop
block or whatever.

Although granted this may seem like being too particular but I do
examine the cut end of the cable as a dull "cutter" may bend some of
the casing toward the center and I find that can impair the easy entry
of the inner cable and I have found more then one "self installed"
cable to have this problem.
Since it takes a minute to open the Dremel case and plug it in, I
usually cut housing with a cable cutter then grind square with the bench
grinder. It's ready immediately and three feet away. With lined cable
housing, I then poke in a scribe tool to open the end of the
heat-softened liner.


--
- Frank Krygowski
Agree. I have a Park cable cutter, which I use to cut housing. I think I cut the actual cable with my Klein diagonal cutters. Then smooth the housing end with the side of the grinding wheel. 8 inch 120 grit white wheel. Quality wheel, not one of those garbage gray concrete wheels that come stock on most bench grinders.
If you're putting the outer into a cable end why would you bother?


Because I do things correctly. Sloppy, trashy work is sloppy and trashy. Not something I have ever done. By your logic, only a fool would put finish paint and clearcoat on the underside of the bottom bracket. Why would you put anything other than a coat of primer on the bottom of the bottom bracket? Its never seen. Yet I suspect you would scream your head off on this forum if you bought a new Trek or Specialized with a crap paint job under the bottom bracket.







And as information - without anything other than a couple of pictures of the damage, Park Tool is honoring their lifetime limited warranty and sending me a new handle for my chain breaker. Even the My Pillow guy (Mike Lindell) took several weeks to replace My Pillow after I washed it and it started mildewing. After that I was careful to only take them to commercial laundromats that could fully dry them out in commercial sized dryers.

A bicycle shop I worked at in the 1980s had us disconnect all cables, remove the ferrules and check that the ends of cable housings were square. New ferrules were then added. Inner cables (before Teflon lined housings) were lubed with a light grease. We also squeezed brake levers hard to fully seat everything and to make sure the ferrule would hold up.

There is on substitute for a job really well done.

I've seen outer cables cut so the helical wire housing ended in a sharp
edge that scraped the inner wire, hampering shifting. I think it pays to
grind it square and give it a quick inspection.


--
- Frank Krygowski