Home made truing stand designs

Hi gang!

Have you seen a good home made truing stand design or web page describing a
design anywhere? If so, I would like to put together a reference page linking
to all of them, and build a stand, too, by the way.

A fork in vise works particularly well for my front wheel as my vise has a 120
degree V slot, vertically, for a collet block. It's a "cross vise" for milling
and locating holes.

But the rear doesn't fit in the front. Well, it does if I remove five 4 mm
spacers..... and the freewheel. Something you can't do with a freehub. But then
you have to disk it manually.

Brother Jeff made a decent stand of angle iron, sawed, and bent.

I made a knock down stand in shop class but never assembled it.

What have you seen?



My senior project at ODU:
Google Groups, then "dgoncz" and some of:
ultracapacitor bicycle fluorescent flywheel inverter
Equipped with BoBike Mini removable child seat, too!

I use an old pair of front forks and widened them so that I could fit
in rear wheels up to 130 mm although it would go wider.When I do front
wheels I just space the difference so the rim ends up in the
middle.The way I make sure the rim ends up in the middle when truing
the wheel is to :1]put the wheel in the stand 2]put a piece of masking
tape below the rim across the stand and mark on it where the centre of
the left rim edge is,make sure the valve hole is in line with the edge
of the tape. 3]turn the wheel around and do the same again this time
you are marking the right side of the rim centre which has now become
the left as you look at it 4]what you should have on the tape are two
lines you now put a line inbetween the two and make up your wheel to
that line.You have to make sure that the points on the edge centres of
the rim that you mark on the tape are exactly opposite each other
thats why I say use the valve hole as a guide.
This reads more complicated than it is in practice.When you put the
wheel on the bike and its not in the centre adjust the frame not the
wheel would be my advice but hey go your own way

I've been thinking about this recently, since I've just built my first
wheel, and want a way to true it indoors without bringing the bike
inside. One problem is that I've never seen a real truing stand up
close. I'm not sure how they handle the different widths of front and
rear wheels, but my plan is to use a single vertical post, welded to a
chunk of 2x6 channel, for a stable, heavy base. The post is a piece
of 1" conduit, with a double-thick dropout made from angle iron welded
on top, so that the wheel clamps only on one side. The indicators are
the tough part. I'm thinking about magnets with pieces of welding rod
epoxied to them vertically, so the magnets can be placed anywhere on
the base, with the rod sticking up to touch the side of the rim. I'd
really prefer to find a simple set of calipers at Harbor Freight,
though, and mount them to the base.

Sheldon's web instructions made it easy to lace up the wheel; but now
I want to true it and tension it, so I can try it out.

Dave Wilson
www.davewilson.cc

On 19 Jan 2004 06:14:29 -0800, (Dave Wilson) wrote:

I've been thinking about this recently, since I've just built my first
wheel, and want a way to true it indoors without bringing the bike
inside. One problem is that I've never seen a real truing stand up
close. I'm not sure how they handle the different widths of front and
rear wheels, but my plan is to use a single vertical post, welded to a
chunk of 2x6 channel, for a stable, heavy base. The post is a piece
of 1" conduit, with a double-thick dropout made from angle iron welded
on top, so that the wheel clamps only on one side. The indicators are
the tough part. I'm thinking about magnets with pieces of welding rod
epoxied to them vertically, so the magnets can be placed anywhere on
the base, with the rod sticking up to touch the side of the rim. I'd
really prefer to find a simple set of calipers at Harbor Freight,
though, and mount them to the base.


Use a dial indicator. It makes truing really easy, much easier than
listening for the scraping of metal. Watch the needle and you get a
clear picture of what the rim is up to. Forget the precision issue-
the way it makes visible what the rim is up to is great.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=33675

Easy to build a mount and clamp it on the vertical support. A pony
clamp is plenty strong. By flipping the wheel you can check for proper
dishing. By turning the mounting bracket, moving the indicator under
the wheel, and putting a small block on the tip, you can do vertical
truing as quickly.


Sheldon's web instructions made it easy to lace up the wheel; but now
I want to true it and tension it, so I can try it out.

Dave Wilson
www.davewilson.cc

On 19 Jan 2004 07:44:11 GMT, ( Doug Goncz ) may
have said:

What have you seen?

A $10 junk-quality 6/12/18-speed bike from Goodwill, stripped of
virtually everything, and attached to a piece of 2x12 as a base. It
can be used on a table or other support. Disadvantage: If you do
both mtb and road wheels, it's hard to find one junker with the
ability to accept both types of wheel. 7, 8 and 9sp wheels are
usually easy to drop in if you spread the hangers just a bit. This
also provides a quick check of the dish.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
it's also possible that I'm busy.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Do not forget that you will need to dish the wheel. A seperate tool
can be used for that. Or even make one. I have seen ones made from
wood that worked rather well. I had a truing stand for a long time
that I bought used from a bike store. It worked great until I lost a
part when moving to a new house.

Steve

Werehatrack wrote in message . ..
On 19 Jan 2004 07:44:11 GMT, ( Doug Goncz ) may
have said:

What have you seen?

A $10 junk-quality 6/12/18-speed bike from Goodwill, stripped of
virtually everything, and attached to a piece of 2x12 as a base. It
can be used on a table or other support. Disadvantage: If you do
both mtb and road wheels, it's hard to find one junker with the
ability to accept both types of wheel. 7, 8 and 9sp wheels are
usually easy to drop in if you spread the hangers just a bit. This
also provides a quick check of the dish.

In article ,
(Steven Gee) wrote:

Do not forget that you will need to dish the wheel. A seperate tool
can be used for that. Or even make one. I have seen ones made from
wood that worked rather well. I had a truing stand for a long time
that I bought used from a bike store. It worked great until I lost a
part when moving to a new house.

Is it a Park? They'll sell you small parts. I learned this thanks to my
serendipitous acquisition of a mostly-complete set of dropout alignment
tools.

Contact them directly.
--
Ryan Cousineau, http://www.sfu.ca/~rcousine
President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club

dgoncz- If so, I would like to put together a reference page linking
to all of them, and build a stand, too, by the way.
BRBR

I have an old(15 years+) Park TS-2 for sale. Loose and needs an overhaul(Park
can do it)...I'll sell it for $25 plus the shipping($15) since it ain't light.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"