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#1
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D-A chain noise (?) and correct chain length
Hi!
I hear an irritating noise when being out of the saddle and moving the bike from left to right to accelerate by pulling on the steer while going up a hill. I removed everything I can think of and put fat on it (wheels, cranks, bolts, stem etc etc.) I am beginning to think the chain itself is to blame. I have 2 questions: 1) Can a chain itself be the cause of irritating noise? (I once had a Connex 9S chain that did this after 500km's) 2) What is the best way to determine chain length? TIA! Derk |
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#2
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D-A chain noise (?) and correct chain length
I removed everything I can think of and put fat on it (wheels, cranks, bolts, stem etc etc.) I'm hoping "fat" is your slang for grease or lube. A freind of mine used "I cant believe it's not butter" for repacking the bearings in his rear wheel once. interesting mess to clean up. 2) What is the best way to determine chain length? loop the chain around the big chainring and the big cog on the rear bypassing the derailiure, match the ends up and add one link. |
#3
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D-A chain noise (?) and correct chain length
slartibartfast wrote:
I'm hoping "fat" is your slang for grease or lube. As soon as I typed it I realized the English word is Grease. The Dutch word for it is "vet", which is similar to the English "fat". I meant grease, though. loop the chain around the big chainring and the big cog on the rear bypassing the derailiure, match the ends up and add one link. Thanks!, Derk |
#4
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Correct chain length revisited
slartibartfast wrote:
loop the chain around the big chainring and the big cog on the rear bypassing the derailiure, match the ends up and add one link. Today I did exactly this after buying a new D-A chain at my LBS. I showed this to a mechanic and he said that is I would take the length I found using this method, it would definately be too short. I folllowed his advice, since I am sure he knows more about this then I do and left it longer. I then consulted the Parks website and they say one should add 1 inch to the length found by using this method. According to them 1 inch=2 rivets. So are the Parks people right? The length found by using the Parks method corresponds to what my mechanic advised me. He used another method, by looking at how low the chain was below the derailleur cage and checked it by using the jockey wheel alignment method........ Greets, Derk |
#5
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Correct chain length revisited
On Fri, 25 Jul 2003 16:05:11 +0200, Derk wrote:
slartibartfast wrote: loop the chain around the big chainring and the big cog on the rear bypassing the derailiure, match the ends up and add one link. Today I did exactly this after buying a new D-A chain at my LBS. I showed this to a mechanic and he said that is I would take the length I found using this method, it would definately be too short. I folllowed his advice, since I am sure he knows more about this then I do and left it longer. I then consulted the Parks website and they say one should add 1 inch to the length found by using this method. According to them 1 inch=2 rivets. 2 rivets is one link -- one full link. What is different about this method from what you first described? Or do you mean an _extra_ inch? Bottom line is that the chain has to be long enough to shift into and out of the big-big combination. Shorter than that is asking for disaster. On the other side, you should have enough take-up so that the small-small comination works without slack, but that is not as critical, since if the first fails, something breaks. -- David L. Johnson __o | The trouble with the rat race is that even if you win you're _`\(,_ | still a rat. --Lilly Tomlin (_)/ (_) | |
#6
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Correct chain length revisited
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#7
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Correct chain length revisited
Werehatrack wrote:
First, a piece of unrelated advice: spam.nl is a valid domain, owned by rdweb.nl; they'd probably appreciate it if you didn't use an address that caused their spam load to go up by that much more. The domain invalid.com is guaranteed to be just that; invalid. OK, thanks. I didn't know that and I changed it immedaitely. I'll explain to you why I don't put my real email address he I was so foolish to do so a few months ago B4 changing providers. I got tens of mails from Africa on a daily basis, written by sons-in-law of former kings, presidents, dictators etc etc. I got SO sick of this, that I decided not to publish it anymore. On top of that, since we're writing in an open forum, it's better to post messenges in this newsgroup, than emailing someone, so that everybody can benefit from the experience other readers (as yourself) have. shift without leaving the chain untensioned. If there's a slack problem, try cleaning the der before making any assumptions about capability to handle the slack; it may just be a case of crud buildup keeping it from going where it needs to go...and if there's *that* much crud, it needed cleaning pretty desperately anyway. My D-A group is EXTREMELY clean (I clean it twice a week and don't ride this bike in or after rain), so that can't be the cause. My mechanic just told me that this option was out of the question, because the derailleur cage was pointing to much forward........ Thanks for your answer! Greets, Derk |
#8
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Correct chain length revisited
Hi Mike,
MikeYankee wrote: isn't winning you any friends. We hate spam, too, I'll repeat what I just wrote another reader of this newsgroup: I'll explain to you why I don't put my real email address he 1)I was so foolish to do so a few months ago B4 changing providers. I got tens of mails from Africa on a daily basis, written by sons-in-law of former kings, presidents, dictators etc etc. I got SO sick of this, that I decided not to publish it anymore. you want people to help you it's inconsiderate not to post your address -- end of lecture. 2)since we're writing in an open forum, I feel it's better anyway to post messenges in this newsgroup, than emailing someone directly, so that everybody can benefit from the expertise other readers (as yourself) have. Thanks for your answer btw! Greets, Derk |
#9
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Correct chain length revisited
A noted fiord designer wrote:
loop the chain around the big chainring and the big cog on the rear bypassing the derailiure, match the ends up and add one link. Derk wrote: Today I did exactly this after buying a new D-A chain at my LBS. I showed this to a mechanic and he said that is I would take the length I found using this method, it would definately be too short. I folllowed his advice, since I am sure he knows more about this then I do and left it longer. I then consulted the Parks website and they say one should add 1 inch to the length found by using this method. According to them 1 inch=2 rivets. That's exactly what slartibartfarst said, also what I recommend at http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html. This is also what Shimano recommends, except that their translator got confused between complete links and half links. So are the Parks people right? The length found by using the Parks method corresponds to what my mechanic advised me. He used another method, by looking at how low the chain was below the derailleur cage and checked it by using the jockey wheel alignment method........ That's not the best way to go, but since it gave the same result in this instance, where's the problem? Sheldon "Plus One" Brown +--------------------------------------------+ | Never worry about theory as long as the | | machinery does what it's supposed to do. | | --Robert A. Heinlein | +--------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
#10
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Correct chain length revisited
Bonsoir l'expert cycliste qui s'est rase la barbe depuis quelque temps!
Sheldon Brown wrote: That's not the best way to go, but since it gave the same result in this instance, where's the problem? Well, I have 4 bikes and I was looking for a fool proof method that I can use quickly and reliably on all my bikes. I told my mechanic the following: put the chain over the biggest cog and big chainwheel without passing through the derailleur. Then, add 1 link to the shortest way to connect the chain. He did this and said: "it's too short"! The problem for me was the difference between links and rivets. I thought 2 rivets equalled 2 links, but I understand that's not the case. Anyway, I couldn't convince him to make the chain shorter, though I think the chain is too long, because I hear the chain rattling when I go over bumps. I think it hits the big chainring when I'm on the smaller chainring. I ride a 42/53 13-23 D-A group and I'm one of those people who go crazy of moises while riding, so I mounted a brand new D-A chain just to find out if the chain's length is to blame for the noise, or that something else is causing it. BTW: when he judged it using the method recommended by Shimano, I find that the jockey wheels are not aligned, but that the lower one is behind the upper one, but according to him one mustn't watch the center of the cage bolts, but the wheels themselves, which makes a difference IMHO. Sinceres amities, Derk |
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