rigid fork - geometry changes

I'm converting my old MTB to city/road bike.
Since I don't realy need a suspension fork, I was thinking
of puting a rigid fork on the bike, but I'm concerned with how
it would affect the geometry, ie bike handling.
The original sus fork has 63mm of travel, and i cannot find
any "suspension corrected" rigid forks around here, so
i'm stuck with normal ("non-sus-corrected") ones.
I know this would steepen the angles a bit and make the bike
steer faster, but will it be too twitchy?

If it helps, the bike is a '01 Trek 810.

--
Pepi

Pepi wrote:
I'm converting my old MTB to city/road bike.
Since I don't realy need a suspension fork, I was thinking
of puting a rigid fork on the bike, but I'm concerned with how
it would affect the geometry, ie bike handling.
The original sus fork has 63mm of travel, and i cannot find
any "suspension corrected" rigid forks around here, so
i'm stuck with normal ("non-sus-corrected") ones.
I know this would steepen the angles a bit and make the bike
steer faster, but will it be too twitchy?

If it helps, the bike is a '01 Trek 810.

--
Pepi

You could try here -

http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/c/COMPFKMTNR

Maybe not, your IP looks to be in Croatia....

--

Let the bridges I burn light my way...

ask at flea markets
i swapped a male fork for a female fork lookin like 1/8" more trail and
had a 50% reduction in twitch on sand skim over pavement

yeah further-adaptor kits are available to place threaded into
unthreaded and ...
speak with harris yellow jersey -or biketoolsect if that becomes your
next problem.
even 27" seem to be around-trek may have a one piece fork that goes
into a 27" after filing off the 700cc fork's top bottom.

further duh-the idea is that an entire bike-with the correct
fork-needing a headset-see biketoolsect.com
can be bought for $25 with fork plus off course

Wasatch5k wrote...

Maybe not, your IP looks to be in Croatia....

bingo ;-))

pepi

wrote...

further duh-the idea

Thx, I'm aware of all the upgrade possibilities.
All I wanted to know is if the bike is going
to be _too_ twitchy with a "regular" fork.
(3-4 cm difference to fully extended sus fork
ie 2-3cm taking sag into account)

pepi

wrote:

even 27" seem to be around-trek may have a one piece fork that goes
into a 27" after filing off the 700cc fork's top bottom.

The "top bottom"... ? My head hurts.

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $695 ti frame

Pepi wrote:
Since I don't realy need a suspension fork, I was thinking
of puting a rigid fork on the bike, but I'm concerned with how
it would affect the geometry, ie bike handling.
The original sus fork has 63mm of travel, and i cannot find
any "suspension corrected" rigid forks around here, so
i'm stuck with normal ("non-sus-corrected") ones.
I know this would steepen the angles a bit and make the bike
steer faster, but will it be too twitchy?

Consider installing spacers between crown and crown race
to "suspension correct" your rigid fork. The ones normally
used above the headset are cheap and should do fine.

The steerer will see slightly more bending than it would
have so I'd want to stick with steel.

I'd undercorrect a bit so that its a little more lively
than your MTB geometry. Also remember that your weight
normally compresses the suspension a bit (don't just
measure with no load on the suspension-fork).

Ed

Pepi wrote:
Since I don't realy need a suspension fork, I was thinking
of puting a rigid fork on the bike, but I'm concerned with how
it would affect the geometry, ie bike handling.
The original sus fork has 63mm of travel, and i cannot find
any "suspension corrected" rigid forks around here, so
i'm stuck with normal ("non-sus-corrected") ones.
I know this would steepen the angles a bit and make the bike
steer faster, but will it be too twitchy?

Consider installing spacers between crown and crown race
to "suspension correct" your rigid fork. The ones normally
used above the headset are cheap and should do fine.

The steerer will see slightly more bending than it would
have so I'd want to stick with steel.

I'd undercorrect a bit so that its a little more lively
than your MTB geometry. Also remember that your weight
normally compresses the suspension a bit (don't just
measure with no load on the suspension-fork).

Ed