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Bike Paint
Hi Experts,
I have a Dawes Galaxy that has some rusting of the silvery (Chrome plated, it seems) front fork and of the brown frame. I was thinking of Finnigan's dark brown Hammerite paint which has some useful properties. It seems to be very durable once hardened and it kills the rust on the frame and it takes only one coat. I have not been able to find it here on the west coast but did online and it was about $25 for a quart there, sometimes much more. Has anyone had experience of this paint and/or know of sources on the west coast? TIA RF |
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#2
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Bike Paint
"RF" wrote in message
... Hi Experts, I have a Dawes Galaxy that has some rusting of the silvery (Chrome plated, it seems) front fork and of the brown frame. I was thinking of Finnigan's dark brown Hammerite paint which has some useful properties. It seems to be very durable once hardened and it kills the rust on the frame and it takes only one coat. I have not been able to find it here on the west coast but did online and it was about $25 for a quart there, sometimes much more. Has anyone had experience of this paint and/or know of sources on the west coast? I'm now very sceptical of hammerite's supposed rust-killing properties - it's never stopped it for me. I've also heard bad things about it on other NGs. That said, provided appropriate preparation is done - using eg Jelonite rust killer - it might work. cheers, clive |
#3
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Bike Paint
"RF" wrote in message ... Hi Experts, I have a Dawes Galaxy that has some rusting of the silvery (Chrome plated, it seems) front fork and of the brown frame. I was thinking of Finnigan's dark brown http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint_It,_Black J. |
#4
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Bike Paint
http://www.google.com/search?q=repai...e7&rlz=1I7GGLJ try local library or use online databsed for World Catalogue or First Search subject automobile restoration, auto paint, metal painting. rustproofing paints seal out water and O2 attempting the prevention of further rusting. Experiments here suggest linseed oil paintedn thinned and alowed to dry then painted with Rusto works Nth* better. The Chrome work is a make up job?: gouge out the pits, seal with ? compatible with the 'chrome matching' paint spots. Auto supply sells an abrasive chrome cleaner in a tube. Frame? same deal but try the linseed after removing rust. 'Tide' the detergent used as a paste with a rotary wire brush digs out rust. Problem is rust area v. good paint area. Are there sooooo many rusty spots that cleaning each out but preserving paint is a PITA against the easier remove all paint/rust down to the metal and repaint Take a look at the frame's internal pipe surfaces? thinned linseed following a cleaning from thinner then CHOH, CHOH topcoat white rusto from Walmart-prethinned. |
#5
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Bike Paint
On Mar 12, 8:48*pm, RF wrote:
datakoll wrote: http://www.google.com/search?q=repai...rls=com.micros.... try local library or use online databsed for World Catalogue or First Search subject automobile restoration, auto paint, metal painting. rustproofing paints seal out water and O2 attempting the prevention of further rusting. Experiments here suggest linseed oil paintedn thinned and alowed to dry then painted with Rusto works Nth* better. The Chrome work is a make up job?: gouge out the pits, seal with ? compatible with the 'chrome matching' paint spots. Auto supply sells an abrasive chrome cleaner in a tube. Frame? same deal but try the linseed after removing rust. 'Tide' the detergent used as a paste with a rotary wire brush digs out rust. Problem is rust area v. good paint area. Are there sooooo many rusty spots that cleaning each out but preserving paint is a PITA against the easier remove all paint/rust down to the metal and repaint Take a look at the frame's internal pipe surfaces? thinned linseed following a cleaning from thinner then CHOH, CHOH topcoat white rusto from Walmart-prethinned. My thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I just came across a paint called Rust Destroyer and it claims that it is engineered to be applied directly over rusted metal, new bare metal, rusted painted metal, hot-dipped galvanized metal, etc. It also claims a 5 year warranty when applied according to the directions provided. What might be a catch is the need to apply a coat 3 mil thick. How does one control that - use a depth gage??? Apart from that, a 24 hour delay is required before putting on the top coat. Clive suggested that the Hammerite did not work well for him. *Paints can fail even if a pinhole size spot is missed and it is sometimes difficult to seal spots like just under the saddle, when the paint does not continue around the sharp edges and down inside the tube. I checked Consumer Reports for possible test results for rust killers but there was nothing. I do have some Hammerite silver paint and will try it on the front forks after I have used some rust killer and sanded them a bit. I'll first search alt.home.repair and if I can't find anything useful, I'll post there for some further suggestions.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - nada nada. you bought the snakeoil. Once upon a time there was a paint breakthru called elkhide or alkhyde. Cheops had a patent for it. The stuff placed some latex like impermeable vaopr barrier in there so moisture would creep thru the paint and bubble it out and off from rusting caused by moisture creeping in. Then latex came along. latex forms up with an acid reaction in water. phosporic acid eats rust a bit so INDUSTRY came up with a vapor barrier, the latex, with phosporic acid underneath. A great idea-for your mailbox. Absolutely temporary rustproofing for the simple minded and lazy. Linseed does a better job. NO WATER. 2 hick coats of thinned linseed seals the rust off from air and water. the rust kinda hardens up and stabilizes. But the deal is you gotta remove 98% of the rust first or remaininbg rust holds enough residual air and water to allow your metal to go on rusting no mater what caws the ongoing rust opens up cracks in the linseed and paint topcoat. cheap painting on "rusty surfaces is rusto primer, metallic latex and rusto topcoat-after you get the rust off. or try to get it off. Linseed first if youmleave more rust on then the other layers. the picasso paints are not meant to cover rust unless you go with real expensive boat paints, two parts acrlics and urethanes. Go over to Grainger's or West marine and checjk the prices. sandpaper is cheaper. anyway you gotta take it appart to see what happened inside. could be the entire idea is waste of time due to massive interior rusting. I have spoken. (is that too over the top? I have spoken?) |
#6
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Bike Paint
On Mar 12, 8:33*pm, datakoll wrote:
On Mar 12, 8:48*pm, RF wrote: datakoll wrote: http://www.google.com/search?q=repai...rls=com.micros... try local library or use online databsed for World Catalogue or First Search subject automobile restoration, auto paint, metal painting. rustproofing paints seal out water and O2 attempting the prevention of further rusting. Experiments here suggest linseed oil paintedn thinned and alowed to dry then painted with Rusto works Nth* better. The Chrome work is a make up job?: gouge out the pits, seal with ? compatible with the 'chrome matching' paint spots. Auto supply sells an abrasive chrome cleaner in a tube. Frame? same deal but try the linseed after removing rust. 'Tide' the detergent used as a paste with a rotary wire brush digs out rust. Problem is rust area v. good paint area. Are there sooooo many rusty spots that cleaning each out but preserving paint is a PITA against the easier remove all paint/rust down to the metal and repaint Take a look at the frame's internal pipe surfaces? thinned linseed following a cleaning from thinner then CHOH, CHOH topcoat white rusto from Walmart-prethinned. My thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I just came across a paint called Rust Destroyer and it claims that it is engineered to be applied directly over rusted metal, new bare metal, rusted painted metal, hot-dipped galvanized metal, etc. It also claims a 5 year warranty when applied according to the directions provided. What might be a catch is the need to apply a coat 3 mil thick. How does one control that - use a depth gage??? Apart from that, a 24 hour delay is required before putting on the top coat. Clive suggested that the Hammerite did not work well for him. *Paints can fail even if a pinhole size spot is missed and it is sometimes difficult to seal spots like just under the saddle, when the paint does not continue around the sharp edges and down inside the tube. I checked Consumer Reports for possible test results for rust killers but there was nothing. I do have some Hammerite silver paint and will try it on the front forks after I have used some rust killer and sanded them a bit. I'll first search alt.home.repair and if I can't find anything useful, I'll post there for some further suggestions.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - nada nada. you bought the snakeoil. Once upon a time there was a paint breakthru called elkhide or alkhyde. Cheops had a patent for it. The stuff placed some latex like impermeable vaopr barrier in there so moisture would creep thru the paint and bubble it out and off from rusting caused by moisture creeping in. Then latex came along. latex forms up with an acid reaction in water. phosporic acid eats rust a bit so INDUSTRY came up with a vapor barrier, the latex, with phosporic acid underneath. A great idea-for your mailbox. Absolutely temporary rustproofing for the simple minded and lazy. Linseed does a better job. NO WATER. 2 hick coats of thinned linseed seals the rust off from air and water. the rust kinda hardens up and stabilizes. But the deal is you gotta remove 98% of the rust first or remaininbg rust holds enough residual air and water to allow your metal to go on rusting no mater what caws the ongoing rust opens up cracks in the linseed and paint topcoat. cheap painting on "rusty surfaces is rusto primer, metallic latex and rusto topcoat-after you get the rust off. or try to get it off. Linseed first if youmleave more rust on then the other layers. the picasso paints are not meant to cover rust unless you go with real expensive boat paints, two parts acrlics and urethanes. Go over to Grainger's or West marine and checjk the prices. sandpaper is cheaper. anyway you gotta take it appart to see what happened inside. could be the entire idea is waste of time due to massive interior rusting. I have spoken. (is that too over the top? I have spoken?)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - more. get a can of alcohol from Wal and wet the frame down with CHOH after dissassembly. The wire brush the frame with a rotary brush mounted inuh drill. a 3" brush like ona grinder. use a threaded rod and redloctite with lockwashers and two sets nuts both side, file the rod square to fit in the drill bzzzzzzzz wear a mask and goggles. that's how you do it. biketoolsect.com has round pickle brushes for inside frame wrok. |
#7
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Bike Paint
datakoll wrote:
http://www.google.com/search?q=repai...e7&rlz=1I7GGLJ try local library or use online databsed for World Catalogue or First Search subject automobile restoration, auto paint, metal painting. rustproofing paints seal out water and O2 attempting the prevention of further rusting. Experiments here suggest linseed oil paintedn thinned and alowed to dry then painted with Rusto works Nth* better. The Chrome work is a make up job?: gouge out the pits, seal with ? compatible with the 'chrome matching' paint spots. Auto supply sells an abrasive chrome cleaner in a tube. Frame? same deal but try the linseed after removing rust. 'Tide' the detergent used as a paste with a rotary wire brush digs out rust. Problem is rust area v. good paint area. Are there sooooo many rusty spots that cleaning each out but preserving paint is a PITA against the easier remove all paint/rust down to the metal and repaint Take a look at the frame's internal pipe surfaces? thinned linseed following a cleaning from thinner then CHOH, CHOH topcoat white rusto from Walmart-prethinned. My thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I just came across a paint called Rust Destroyer and it claims that it is engineered to be applied directly over rusted metal, new bare metal, rusted painted metal, hot-dipped galvanized metal, etc. It also claims a 5 year warranty when applied according to the directions provided. What might be a catch is the need to apply a coat 3 mil thick. How does one control that - use a depth gage??? Apart from that, a 24 hour delay is required before putting on the top coat. Clive suggested that the Hammerite did not work well for him. Paints can fail even if a pinhole size spot is missed and it is sometimes difficult to seal spots like just under the saddle, when the paint does not continue around the sharp edges and down inside the tube. I checked Consumer Reports for possible test results for rust killers but there was nothing. I do have some Hammerite silver paint and will try it on the front forks after I have used some rust killer and sanded them a bit. I'll first search alt.home.repair and if I can't find anything useful, I'll post there for some further suggestions. |
#8
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Bike Paint
datakoll wrote:
http://www.google.com/search?q=repai...e7&rlz=1I7GGLJ try local library or use online databsed for World Catalogue or First Search subject automobile restoration, auto paint, metal painting. rustproofing paints seal out water and O2 attempting the prevention of further rusting. Experiments here suggest linseed oil paintedn thinned and alowed to dry then painted with Rusto works Nth* better. The Chrome work is a make up job?: gouge out the pits, seal with ? compatible with the 'chrome matching' paint spots. Auto supply sells an abrasive chrome cleaner in a tube. Frame? same deal but try the linseed after removing rust. 'Tide' the detergent used as a paste with a rotary wire brush digs out rust. Problem is rust area v. good paint area. Are there sooooo many rusty spots that cleaning each out but preserving paint is a PITA against the easier remove all paint/rust down to the metal and repaint Take a look at the frame's internal pipe surfaces? thinned linseed following a cleaning from thinner then CHOH, CHOH topcoat white rusto from Walmart-prethinned. RF wrote: I just came across a paint called Rust Destroyer and it claims that it is engineered to be applied directly over rusted metal, new bare metal, rusted painted metal, hot-dipped galvanized metal, etc. It also claims a 5 year warranty when applied according to the directions provided. What might be a catch is the need to apply a coat 3 mil thick. How does one control that - use a depth gage??? Apart from that, a 24 hour delay is required before putting on the top coat. Clive suggested that the Hammerite did not work well for him. Paints can fail even if a pinhole size spot is missed and it is sometimes difficult to seal spots like just under the saddle, when the paint does not continue around the sharp edges and down inside the tube. I checked Consumer Reports for possible test results for rust killers but there was nothing. I do have some Hammerite silver paint and will try it on the front forks after I have used some rust killer and sanded them a bit. I'll first search alt.home.repair and if I can't find anything useful, I'll post there for some further suggestions. A quality hour or two with a book on the basics of auto body may be time well spent. Here's the ten-cent tour: http://www.yellowjersey.org/paint_repair.html -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#9
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Bike Paint
who looks? whaddya paranoid? livon Pebble Beach? |
#10
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Bike Paint
datakoll wrote:
On Mar 12, 8:48 pm, RF wrote: datakoll wrote: http://www.google.com/search?q=repai...rls=com.micros... try local library or use online databsed for World Catalogue or First Search subject automobile restoration, auto paint, metal painting. rustproofing paints seal out water and O2 attempting the prevention of further rusting. Experiments here suggest linseed oil paintedn thinned and alowed to dry then painted with Rusto works Nth* better. The Chrome work is a make up job?: gouge out the pits, seal with ? compatible with the 'chrome matching' paint spots. Auto supply sells an abrasive chrome cleaner in a tube. Frame? same deal but try the linseed after removing rust. 'Tide' the detergent used as a paste with a rotary wire brush digs out rust. Problem is rust area v. good paint area. Are there sooooo many rusty spots that cleaning each out but preserving paint is a PITA against the easier remove all paint/rust down to the metal and repaint Take a look at the frame's internal pipe surfaces? thinned linseed following a cleaning from thinner then CHOH, CHOH topcoat white rusto from Walmart-prethinned. My thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I just came across a paint called Rust Destroyer and it claims that it is engineered to be applied directly over rusted metal, new bare metal, rusted painted metal, hot-dipped galvanized metal, etc. It also claims a 5 year warranty when applied according to the directions provided. What might be a catch is the need to apply a coat 3 mil thick. How does one control that - use a depth gage??? Apart from that, a 24 hour delay is required before putting on the top coat. Clive suggested that the Hammerite did not work well for him. Paints can fail even if a pinhole size spot is missed and it is sometimes difficult to seal spots like just under the saddle, when the paint does not continue around the sharp edges and down inside the tube. I checked Consumer Reports for possible test results for rust killers but there was nothing. I do have some Hammerite silver paint and will try it on the front forks after I have used some rust killer and sanded them a bit. I'll first search alt.home.repair and if I can't find anything useful, I'll post there for some further suggestions.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - nada nada. you bought the snakeoil. Once upon a time there was a paint breakthru called elkhide or alkhyde. Cheops had a patent for it. The stuff placed some latex like impermeable vaopr barrier in there so moisture would creep thru the paint and bubble it out and off from rusting caused by moisture creeping in. Then latex came along. latex forms up with an acid reaction in water. phosporic acid eats rust a bit so INDUSTRY came up with a vapor barrier, the latex, with phosporic acid underneath. A great idea-for your mailbox. Absolutely temporary rustproofing for the simple minded and lazy. Linseed does a better job. NO WATER. 2 hick coats of thinned linseed seals the rust off from air and water. the rust kinda hardens up and stabilizes. But the deal is you gotta remove 98% of the rust first or remaininbg rust holds enough residual air and water to allow your metal to go on rusting no mater what caws the ongoing rust opens up cracks in the linseed and paint topcoat. cheap painting on "rusty surfaces is rusto primer, metallic latex and rusto topcoat-after you get the rust off. or try to get it off. Linseed first if youmleave more rust on then the other layers. the picasso paints are not meant to cover rust unless you go with real expensive boat paints, two parts acrlics and urethanes. Go over to Grainger's or West marine and checjk the prices. sandpaper is cheaper. anyway you gotta take it appart to see what happened inside. could be the entire idea is waste of time due to massive interior rusting. I have spoken. (is that too over the top? I have spoken?) Thank you Datakoll. You are assuming here that sealing out the air permanently stops rust. My understanding is that bacteria also cause rust and very probably they can migrate through the oil, if they are not already on the surface when it was oiled. |
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