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#1
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A couple of questions
Howdy.
I'm looking for a new commuter bike (go to work, go to church, get groceries - in short, to the extent practical, displace my car). I started checking out my LBSs last Saturday - lots of really nice gear. My birthday is next month, so I'm aiming for a purchase in the latter part of March. Anyway, I'd like some opinions on a couple of things that LBS guys have told me. 1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if you want to cover more than a few miles. Given that there's only about 7% difference in circumference, this seems like a stretch to me. Any experience, opinion, conjecture, FUD? 2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments? A final question: 3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and such). I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as much crap off the gearing as possible. Are really cold temperatures likely to cause problems (grease freezing, for example [it happens on cars here])? Ride safely Jeff |
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#2
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A couple of questions
"Jeff" wrote in message ... Howdy. I'm looking for a new commuter bike (go to work, go to church, get groceries - in short, to the extent practical, displace my car). I started checking out my LBSs last Saturday - lots of really nice gear. My birthday is next month, so I'm aiming for a purchase in the latter part of March. Anyway, I'd like some opinions on a couple of things that LBS guys have told me. 1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if you want to cover more than a few miles. Given that there's only about 7% difference in circumference, this seems like a stretch to me. Any experience, opinion, conjecture, FUD? Doesn't make any difference. Appropriate tires for foul / cold weather commuting readily available in 26" or 700c. I have 26" because I require such a small frame, it's easier to make the geometry right with smaller wheels, otherwise it doesn't matter. 2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments? Disc brakes add unnecessary cost and complexity. Rim brakes work great for commuting in the rain. A final question: 3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and such). I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as much crap off the gearing as possible. Are really cold temperatures likely to cause problems (grease freezing, for example [it happens on cars here])? I really like my internal hub in any weather. Low maintenance, very reliable, easy shifting, evenly spaced ratios between gears. I've heard of Rohloff hubs requiring thinner oil in very cold conditions. My Rohloff works fine at 20 degrees F, haven't tried it in colder temperatures. BobT |
#3
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A couple of questions
Jeff wrote:
Howdy. I'm looking for a new commuter bike (go to work, go to church, get groceries - in short, to the extent practical, displace my car). The quality you need most in a commuter bike is reliability. The component that is most likely to give you problems is tires. Get the most nearly bulletproof tires you can: Kevlar, armor strips, Slime, etc. The second most vulnerable parts on a commuter bike are the rims. Get double-strength. I got front shocks on my bike, and have not had the problem with dented rims that I had on its predecessor. It sounds like you live in an are where potholes are a real menace. Spokes too. Get a good enough bike to have good wheels. Do not settle for a cheap bike! (Cf. the innumerable discussions of what crap Huffys (et al) are on this group.) I have rim brakes, and find that they only lose stopping power in extremely wet conditions. When that happens (rarely in my semi-arid environment), I make a point of "riding" my brakes: applying them lightly before I need them so that the shoes can wipe most of the water from the rims. I have derailleur shifters, and they work fine down to about 20F. Chill factors, for the record, do not affect mechanical parts, but are a measurement of the effect of wind/bike speed and cold on exposed flesh. A -40 chill factor is a possible hazard to your nose and ears, but not necessarily to your bike. Another hazard you may face is theft, depending on where you intend to ride. How fancy a bike are you willing to risk losing? You might also want to google past discussions on this ng regarding the hauling of cargo: panniers, baskets, trailers, etc. (I'm a trailer man, myself.) Where do you live that's so cold and wet? Bill __o | Get a bicycle. You will not regret it, if you live. _`\(,_ | (_)/ (_) | -- Mark Twain |
#4
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A couple of questions
Bob Taylor wrote:
"Jeff" wrote in message ... Howdy. I'm looking for a new commuter bike (go to work, go to church, get groceries - in short, to the extent practical, displace my car). I started checking out my LBSs last Saturday - lots of really nice gear. My birthday is next month, so I'm aiming for a purchase in the latter part of March. Anyway, I'd like some opinions on a couple of things that LBS guys have told me. 1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if you want to cover more than a few miles. Given that there's only about 7% difference in circumference, this seems like a stretch to me. Any experience, opinion, conjecture, FUD? Doesn't make any difference. Appropriate tires for foul / cold weather commuting readily available in 26" or 700c. I have 26" because I require such a small frame, it's easier to make the geometry right with smaller wheels, otherwise it doesn't matter. You will likely need a power meter to notice the difference in rolling resistance between the two sizes (assuming similar tires). 2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments? Disc brakes add unnecessary cost and complexity. Rim brakes work great for commuting in the rain. Rim brakes are lousy for stopping in the snow. Rim brakes also chew up the rims in wet weather, even with high quality pads. Longer rim life will eventually offset the higher cost of hub brakes (assuming quality rims that do not fail prematurely from cracking). Drum brakes require less maintenance than discs, and are much less attractive to thieves. The stopping power and modulation of drum brakes should be adequate for commuter use. A final question: 3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and such). I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as much crap off the gearing as possible. Are really cold temperatures likely to cause problems (grease freezing, for example [it happens on cars here])? I really like my internal hub in any weather. Low maintenance, very reliable, easy shifting, evenly spaced ratios between gears. I've heard of Rohloff hubs requiring thinner oil in very cold conditions. My Rohloff works fine at 20 degrees F, haven't tried it in colder temperatures. Derailers can also freeze up, particularly when covered in snow or water that freezes. An internal hub gear would be expected to be more reliable in winter use. -- Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia The weather is here, wish you were beautiful |
#5
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A couple of questions
On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 19:21:05 -0600, Jeff
wrote: Howdy. I'm looking for a new commuter bike (go to work, go to church, get groceries - in short, to the extent practical, displace my car). I started checking out my LBSs last Saturday - lots of really nice gear. My birthday is next month, so I'm aiming for a purchase in the latter part of March. Anyway, I'd like some opinions on a couple of things that LBS guys have told me. 1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if you want to cover more than a few miles. Given that there's only about 7% difference in circumference, this seems like a stretch to me. Any experience, opinion, conjecture, FUD? I rode a commuter-ized MTB, with 26" X 1.4" slicks, for several years before switching back to a touring bike with 700C X 28mm tires. The MTB has a bit more upright position than the tourer with moustache bars. The fatter tires are more forgiving in slop and sand. 2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments? I've never had disc brakes either. I do have a bike with drum brakes. The major advantage of hub brakes over rim brakes is rim wear. Drum brakes aren't as finicky as disc or rim brakes when it comes time to replace the wheel after fixing a flat in the windy raining cold dark. A final question: 3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and such). I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as much crap off the gearing as possible. Are really cold temperatures likely to cause problems (grease freezing, for example [it happens on cars here])? Problems with any kind of shifting in cold weather is usually due to the cable control icing and becoming immovable rather than the lubricant solidifying. My "ice" bike, with studded tires, is a single speed with no fenders. When it comes time to replace the tires on the MTB commuter I'll do it with a tire that has some tread so it's not useless after the first sprinklings of snow. I'll continue riding the 700C bike for its better aerodynamics, less rolling resistance and lighter weight. Both were built from cast-offs plus new and used parts totalling less than $350 each. (most of that is absorbed by new Crank Bros pedals and Brooks saddles) There is a boom in bikes designated "city bikes". Primarily they're European and have evolved to provide comfortable reliable transportation over relatively short flat distances, in all weather, day or night, while dressed like a normal human being. Tires, lights, weather protection and reliability are of paramount importance in a commuter that's going to see daily use. If you consistency show up late or call in with bike problems you're presenting a bad example to your co-workers. Most cycling commuters have fewer sick days and are usually on-time when weather or traffic conditions are delaying their co-workers. Cars are coffins. -- zk |
#6
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A couple of questions
1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if you want to cover more than a few miles. The selection of tires in each size is the biggest difference. The same make & model in 700s will be thinner than it is available in 26s. Many of the 700s will be way too thin for you and many of the 26s will be way too wide. For regular commuting on mostly paved surfaces I like x28 or x32 in the 700 and 26x1 or 1&1/4, for some reason these seem to be considered unusually skinny for 26s and horribly wide for 700s at most LBSes. 2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments? I break a lot of spokes ('cause I'm way over the load limit for my bike?-) and when I have to ride home with a wheel outta true and the brake unhooked I think disc brakes would be really cool. But I suspect that at the end of the day the disc brakes would be way more maintenance than the broken spokes are (and I'm still overloaded so I'm still breaking spokes). Drum or coaster brakes like we used back in the day would certainly get 'er done, but is there an infernally gear hub with brakes too? 3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and such). wow, knock yourself out. get yerself a little propane heater and a front rack, bungie the heater to the rack and let the wind blow hot air on ya. Or move, why you wanna live in that stuff anyway? I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as much crap off the gearing as possible. Right, but you're still gonna have to clean that chain. Schwinn has been teaing me with a shaft drive bike for sometime... it never seems to make it to the dealers but it's always on their web site. |
#7
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A couple of questions
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#8
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A couple of questions
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3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and such). wow, knock yourself out. get yerself a little propane heater and a front rack, bungie the heater to the rack and let the wind blow hot air on ya. Or move, why you wanna live in that stuff anyway? .... Actually, it is not bad if you dress properly (most people don't because it doesn't look fashionable (like frostbite is fashionable?). I've walked to work all winter (beater bike just isn't up to it) with windchill as low as -46C. I usually arrive sweating (with a "t", not an "r"). I've not been late once, regardless of the road conditions. I've saved at least $140 in parking each month. Jeff |
#9
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A couple of questions
Jeff wrote:
Howdy. I'm looking for a new commuter bike (go to work, go to church, get groceries - in short, to the extent practical, displace my car). I started checking out my LBSs last Saturday - lots of really nice gear. My birthday is next month, so I'm aiming for a purchase in the latter part of March. Anyway, I'd like some opinions on a couple of things that LBS guys have told me. 1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if you want to cover more than a few miles. Given that there's only about 7% difference in circumference, this seems like a stretch to me. Any experience, opinion, conjecture, FUD? It's not the wheel size. It's (a) the typical tires used for each size, and (b) the typical road geometry of a 700 versus the typical off-road (slower) geometry of a 26 inch. The tires can be overcome in one direction -- you can put high pressure, narrow slicks on a 26 inch, but you can't put knobbies on a 700 (frame not wide enough, usually). Personally, I ride 26 inch wheels in the winter with wide tires, for several reasons. First of all, it's dark a lot. There are plenty of things to pay attention to in the dark. As a result, I'm more likely to hit small potholes, road cracks or other minor things. A wider tire can handle these easier. Second, a 26 inch bike handles studded tires much more easily (because these are wider). Third, I hate changing tires in the cold and dark. More rubber = fewer flats, ceteris paribus. You are quite correct that riding a road bike would be faster. Life's full of tradeoffs. My tradeoffs aren't necessarily the same ones you'd make. 2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments? A final question: 3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and such). I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as much crap off the gearing as possible. Are really cold temperatures likely to cause problems (grease freezing, for example [it happens on cars here])? See "derailleur freeze" thread currently on this newsgroup -- or ask on the icebike list (via www.icebike.com). I have no direct experience, but I do know there are dissatisfied winter internal hub owners. As Zoot says, if it's the cable that's the problem, an internal hub won't help. The icebike site also offers some hints that at -40 you might want to replace grease in the bearings with oil; it doesn't get that cold in Chicago (all-time record is -26F) so I've never tried this. Jeff -- Mike Kruger Say not always what you know, but always know what you say. Claudius; 10 BC-AD 54, Roman Emperor |
#10
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A couple of questions
On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 19:21:05 -0600, Jeff wrote:
1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if you want to cover more than a few miles. Given that there's only about 7% difference in circumference, this seems like a stretch to me. Any experience, opinion, conjecture, FUD? 2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments? A final question: 3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and such). I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as much crap off the gearing as possible. Are really cold temperatures likely to cause problems (grease freezing, for example [it happens on cars here])? Ride safely Jeff Yes, Yes and Yes. ( realy cold temperatures are likely to cause major problems with Freewheels and Freehubs, have them prepped if you mean to ride at -40C ) |
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