I am that out of date

On 4/28/2021 8:26 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 3:49:42 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 17:22:06 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 4/27/2021 3:53 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 1:05:35 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 8:35:45 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/27/2021 8:43 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Monday, April 26, 2021 at 7:09:38 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:20:48 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 9:22 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote:

I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE
improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back
in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used.

Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club
mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his
individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding.
They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe
clips.

There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and
US football kicker. They are outliers.

One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from
people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted
to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with
training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat
pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care.

Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless
for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in
or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them.

Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and
put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in,
plus shoes with soft tacky tread.

In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to
reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy.

I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously
steep climbs etc.

I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but
proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my
experience.

Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove.

Roger Merriman
Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals.
Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank?
I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top.
Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts.
Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after.

I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner.

Did you tighten the pedals to recommended torque? If not, it backed out because the pedals were under-torqued. If so, then you have bearing binding. The question now is if you have ruined the pedal threads and need to replace the crank.
Can't those be Helicoiled?
Yes, I was being overly-dramatic. Many times you can just screw the pedal back in, although I screw it back in with thread lock and recommended torque because recommended torque alone may not be enough to keep it in.

-- Jay Beattie.
You know, it never even occurred to me to repair it. Yes, a Heli coil is a suitable repair. If you can find someone local that knows how to do it. It is increasingly rare t find skilled workers and it would require at bare minimum a good drill press and a mill would be preferable. But with a new FSA Gossamer crank running $50 it isn't worth it. I will just chuck the Rock Bros pedals and be done with them. I will consider it a lesson learned.

It looks like I didn't write what actually happened. Taking careful measurements of the Rock Bros pedals, the end of the shaft had perfectly good threads but the inside near the base of the threads was a full mm smaller in diameter. This allowed the pedal to rock back and forth and work the threads out. Rock Bros has offered to replace them but it costs more to return them than I have in them.

Guys do a similar size thread Helicoil or ReCoil or
ThredSert in aluminum heads for spark plugs right /in situ/
so I can't imagine a bicycle crank would be any different in
terms of tapping.

That said, the industry standard is a full steel sleeve not
a coil and there's probably no good reason not to do it that
way.

E.g. https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...-kit-procedure I guess this is a good reason for not buying cheap Chinese Keo knock-offs, assuming they mis-cut the threads. Its hard to imagine how that might have happened to only part of the threads, though.

I'm not really sure that Park Tool setup is good for cranks. It doesn't correct for misalignments that could occur. After seeing the rather substantial effect of a 2.5 crank length makes, I'd worry about misalignment, wouldn't you?


Oh, probably not. Both the German and British taps have a
very long taper for a pilot. Only a complete idiot could
botch it.
Quite the contrary, at least when hand tapping it is quite easy to
start the tap at a bit of an angle and tap the hole "crooked". Been
there, done that.
'Well I have as well but that was in steel that you cannot tell precisely what is going on which is why all of that sort of work is done on a mill.


With such a long pilot I've never seen one botched and we've
had the full range of humans as employees here. I deal with
an assortment of errors but that's never been one.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 4/27/2021 10:11 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 06:43:17 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

It looks like I didn't write what actually happened. Taking careful measurements of the Rock Bros pedals, the end of the shaft had perfectly good threads but the inside near the base of the threads was a full mm smaller in diameter. This allowed the pedal to rock back and forth and work the threads out. Rock Bros has offered to replace them but it costs more to return them than I have in them.

Was the pedal with the problem on the left or right? If it was the
left, continue reading:
https://bicyclingage.substack.com/p/6-pedal-installation-a-cautionary
"If my brother had tightened his pedals more, or if the pedals had had
washers and the threads had had clean grease for installation, this
disaster would have been averted."

That was the best explanation I've seen of the benefits of pedal washers.

I mentioned the tiny pedal wrench I use with the Bike Friday. I did have
to find pedal washers for those bikes, and IME they're not easy to find
in bike shops! And then I have to make sure I don't lose the pedal
washers when I travel with the bike in its box.

Of course, there hasn't been any traveling for over a year. :-/

--
- Frank Krygowski

On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 7:08:14 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/28/2021 8:26 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 3:49:42 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 17:22:06 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 4/27/2021 3:53 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 1:05:35 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 8:35:45 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/27/2021 8:43 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Monday, April 26, 2021 at 7:09:38 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:20:48 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 9:22 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote:

I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE
improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back
in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used.

Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club
mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his
individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding.
They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe
clips.

There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and
US football kicker. They are outliers.

One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from
people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted
to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with
training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat
pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care.

Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless
for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in
or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them.

Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and
put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in,
plus shoes with soft tacky tread.

In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to
reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy.

I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously
steep climbs etc.

I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but
proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my
experience.

Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove.

Roger Merriman
Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals.
Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank?
I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top.
Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts.
Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten.. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after.

I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals.. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner.

Did you tighten the pedals to recommended torque? If not, it backed out because the pedals were under-torqued. If so, then you have bearing binding. The question now is if you have ruined the pedal threads and need to replace the crank.
Can't those be Helicoiled?
Yes, I was being overly-dramatic. Many times you can just screw the pedal back in, although I screw it back in with thread lock and recommended torque because recommended torque alone may not be enough to keep it in.

-- Jay Beattie.
You know, it never even occurred to me to repair it. Yes, a Heli coil is a suitable repair. If you can find someone local that knows how to do it. It is increasingly rare t find skilled workers and it would require at bare minimum a good drill press and a mill would be preferable. But with a new FSA Gossamer crank running $50 it isn't worth it. I will just chuck the Rock Bros pedals and be done with them. I will consider it a lesson learned.

It looks like I didn't write what actually happened. Taking careful measurements of the Rock Bros pedals, the end of the shaft had perfectly good threads but the inside near the base of the threads was a full mm smaller in diameter. This allowed the pedal to rock back and forth and work the threads out. Rock Bros has offered to replace them but it costs more to return them than I have in them.

Guys do a similar size thread Helicoil or ReCoil or
ThredSert in aluminum heads for spark plugs right /in situ/
so I can't imagine a bicycle crank would be any different in
terms of tapping.

That said, the industry standard is a full steel sleeve not
a coil and there's probably no good reason not to do it that
way.

E.g. https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...-kit-procedure I guess this is a good reason for not buying cheap Chinese Keo knock-offs, assuming they mis-cut the threads. Its hard to imagine how that might have happened to only part of the threads, though.

I'm not really sure that Park Tool setup is good for cranks. It doesn't correct for misalignments that could occur. After seeing the rather substantial effect of a 2.5 crank length makes, I'd worry about misalignment, wouldn't you?


Oh, probably not. Both the German and British taps have a
very long taper for a pilot. Only a complete idiot could
botch it.
Quite the contrary, at least when hand tapping it is quite easy to
start the tap at a bit of an angle and tap the hole "crooked". Been
there, done that.
'Well I have as well but that was in steel that you cannot tell precisely what is going on which is why all of that sort of work is done on a mill..

With such a long pilot I've never seen one botched and we've
had the full range of humans as employees here. I deal with
an assortment of errors but that's never been one.
Well, I'll take your word for it since you have more experience with that sort of thing than me. But it would cost me a tap handle, those cleanup takes and the helicoils. The new Campy Crank just ran $89.

I could get a Record UltraTorgue for $200.

On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 8:36:49 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/27/2021 10:11 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 06:43:17 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

It looks like I didn't write what actually happened. Taking careful measurements of the Rock Bros pedals, the end of the shaft had perfectly good threads but the inside near the base of the threads was a full mm smaller in diameter. This allowed the pedal to rock back and forth and work the threads out. Rock Bros has offered to replace them but it costs more to return them than I have in them.

Was the pedal with the problem on the left or right? If it was the
left, continue reading:
https://bicyclingage.substack.com/p/6-pedal-installation-a-cautionary
"If my brother had tightened his pedals more, or if the pedals had had
washers and the threads had had clean grease for installation, this
disaster would have been averted."
That was the best explanation I've seen of the benefits of pedal washers.

I mentioned the tiny pedal wrench I use with the Bike Friday. I did have
to find pedal washers for those bikes, and IME they're not easy to find
in bike shops! And then I have to make sure I don't lose the pedal
washers when I travel with the bike in its box.

Of course, there hasn't been any traveling for over a year. :-/

I found a set of washers on my work bench that are the perfect size for pedals, but I would think it more dangerous to put them on since they are pretty thin.

By the way, the only way I've been able to get the weight of my saddle pack down is by using one of those silly one piece tools and only carry a single tube and only one CO2 cartridge. If you are getting less than 1/2 lb how are you doing that?

On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 8:36:49 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/27/2021 10:11 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 06:43:17 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

It looks like I didn't write what actually happened. Taking careful measurements of the Rock Bros pedals, the end of the shaft had perfectly good threads but the inside near the base of the threads was a full mm smaller in diameter. This allowed the pedal to rock back and forth and work the threads out. Rock Bros has offered to replace them but it costs more to return them than I have in them.

Was the pedal with the problem on the left or right? If it was the
left, continue reading:
https://bicyclingage.substack.com/p/6-pedal-installation-a-cautionary
"If my brother had tightened his pedals more, or if the pedals had had
washers and the threads had had clean grease for installation, this
disaster would have been averted."
That was the best explanation I've seen of the benefits of pedal washers.

Although, according to the article, washers are only beneficial if your pedal spindle is notched for wrench flats and is not a full, circular seat against the crank arm. In other words, you have a beater pedal. All the SPD and Look pedals have a full circular face that seats against the crank arm. A particular crank may require a washer, but I never used them on my Shimano cranks except to get a little distance to help my heel clear stays or crank arms. My son just buys the Shimano road pedals with longer axles and, AFAIK, doesn't use washers. I never used washers on my classic Campy cranks with Campy pedals and never had one unscrew, but back then, SOP was using gorilla strength and my Campy BB/pedal wrench. https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...ol-spanner.jpg Still my go-to tool with those rare pedals with wrench flats. I had one early Dura Ace/Look back out on me, probably because I had installed it too loosely somehow. No major damage.

-- Jay Beattie.

On 4/28/2021 11:48 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:


I found a set of washers on my work bench that are the perfect size for pedals, but I would think it more dangerous to put them on since they are pretty thin.

They're supposed to be thin. That's a feature, not a bug. All they do is
prevent the pedal flat from digging into the crank.

By the way, the only way I've been able to get the weight of my saddle pack down is by using one of those silly one piece tools and only carry a single tube and only one CO2 cartridge. If you are getting less than 1/2 lb how are you doing that?

I carry one tube, on patch kit, a frame pump and a multi-tool. But I
don't remember what my tool weight is. With the pump, I'm sure it's over
1/2 pound.

Now I do have other things in my bike bag not related to tools.
Depending on the bike: A homemade cable lock, a monocular, a two-piece
pennywhistle, a little keychain LED light, maybe some paper maps, a
spare derailleur cable, etc.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On 4/28/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/27/2021 10:11 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 06:43:17 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

It looks like I didn't write what actually happened.
Taking careful measurements of the Rock Bros pedals, the
end of the shaft had perfectly good threads but the
inside near the base of the threads was a full mm smaller
in diameter. This allowed the pedal to rock back and
forth and work the threads out. Rock Bros has offered to
replace them but it costs more to return them than I have
in them.

Was the pedal with the problem on the left or right? If
it was the
left, continue reading:
https://bicyclingage.substack.com/p/6-pedal-installation-a-cautionary

"If my brother had tightened his pedals more, or if the
pedals had had
washers and the threads had had clean grease for
installation, this
disaster would have been averted."

That was the best explanation I've seen of the benefits of
pedal washers.

I mentioned the tiny pedal wrench I use with the Bike
Friday. I did have to find pedal washers for those bikes,
and IME they're not easy to find in bike shops! And then I
have to make sure I don't lose the pedal washers when I
travel with the bike in its box.

Of course, there hasn't been any traveling for over a
year. :-/


It's good practice for bikes such as yours with pedals
frequently removed/installed. Any hard flat washer with a
9/16" hole and thickness between .05mm (TA) and 2.0mm (Look)
will do. A twis-tie is prefect while pedals are off.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 10:45:31 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/28/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/27/2021 10:11 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 06:43:17 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

It looks like I didn't write what actually happened.
Taking careful measurements of the Rock Bros pedals, the
end of the shaft had perfectly good threads but the
inside near the base of the threads was a full mm smaller
in diameter. This allowed the pedal to rock back and
forth and work the threads out. Rock Bros has offered to
replace them but it costs more to return them than I have
in them.

Was the pedal with the problem on the left or right? If
it was the
left, continue reading:
https://bicyclingage.substack.com/p/6-pedal-installation-a-cautionary

"If my brother had tightened his pedals more, or if the
pedals had had
washers and the threads had had clean grease for
installation, this
disaster would have been averted."

That was the best explanation I've seen of the benefits of
pedal washers.

I mentioned the tiny pedal wrench I use with the Bike
Friday. I did have to find pedal washers for those bikes,
and IME they're not easy to find in bike shops! And then I
have to make sure I don't lose the pedal washers when I
travel with the bike in its box.

Of course, there hasn't been any traveling for over a
year. :-/

It's good practice for bikes such as yours with pedals
frequently removed/installed. Any hard flat washer with a
9/16" hole and thickness between .05mm (TA) and 2.0mm (Look)
will do. A twis-tie is prefect while pedals are off.

Well, on the new Campy cranks I will install the REAL (tm) Look Keo pedals on instead of the cut rate copies. I didn't order the real Look's because they no longer make the Tour de France model which weighs identical to the Blades which I don't like. They work well but they do not rotate to the correct position well and the underside carbon "spring" can be stepped upon and broken for that reason.

On Wed, 28 Apr 2021 11:36:43 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 4/27/2021 10:11 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 06:43:17 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

It looks like I didn't write what actually happened. Taking careful measurements of the Rock Bros pedals, the end of the shaft had perfectly good threads but the inside near the base of the threads was a full mm smaller in diameter. This allowed the pedal to rock back and forth and work the threads out. Rock Bros has offered to replace them but it costs more to return them than I have in them.

Was the pedal with the problem on the left or right? If it was the
left, continue reading:
https://bicyclingage.substack.com/p/6-pedal-installation-a-cautionary
"If my brother had tightened his pedals more, or if the pedals had had
washers and the threads had had clean grease for installation, this
disaster would have been averted."

That was the best explanation I've seen of the benefits of pedal washers.

Jobst Brandt goes deeper into the problem in these collections of
articles:
https://yarchive.net/bike/cranks.html
https://yarchive.net/bike/crank_break.html
His solution involves making a stainless steel collet and chamfering
the crank. There's an ASCII text "drawing" (reproduced below) in the
8th article in the 2nd URL. Jobst was mostly concerned with crank
breakage from cracks radiating from the pedal threads. I think it
might be related to the thread stripping problem, but I'm not su

______________________
| | | | |
| | | | | Crank cross section
| |________| | |
|/ \| |
----------------------
| 18mm |

__________ _
/| |\ 1.8 mm
------------ - Collet
_ 0.5 mm
| 18mm |


__________
| |
| | pedal threads
| |
| |
| |
----------------
|| | 12.54| ||
|---------------|
| | pedal flats for wrench
| |
| |


I mentioned the tiny pedal wrench I use with the Bike Friday. I did have
to find pedal washers for those bikes, and IME they're not easy to find
in bike shops! And then I have to make sure I don't lose the pedal
washers when I travel with the bike in its box.
Of course, there hasn't been any traveling for over a year. :-/

Losing washers is another good reason to switch to folding pedals.

When To Use Pedal Washers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hhB2cUSuTH0

Pedal to crank washers on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=bicycle+pedal+washers
Available in aluminum, stainless steel or titanium.

I vaguely recall that someone was selling tapered washers (collets) as
suggested by Jobst, but I couldn't find any.

I like to ride in construction boots, which are rather wide. I keep
hitting my heels on the cranks. So, I tried some pedal extenders:
https://www.google.com/search?q=bicycle+pedal+extenders&tbm=isch
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=bicycle+pedal+extenders
I have a cracked knee cap, from a childhood injury, that didn't quite
heal correctly. If my knees are positioned correctly, there's no
pain. Unfortunately, the extenders moved my knees into the pain zone,
so I couldn't use them. I was thinking of trying some thinner
q-factor adjustable washers. Or, perhaps I should just buy some
proper cycling shoes?



--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 18:19:53 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

The hard part is finding 5/8-24 bolts or rod ends in both LH (left
hand) and RH (right hand) threading.

Oops. That should be a 9/16-20 bolt.

--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558