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Knackered bottom bracket.



 
 
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  #21  
Old August 11th 16, 07:13 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default Knackered bottom bracket.



"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 8/10/2016 2:45 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"John B." wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Aug 2016 19:30:48 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
...

On Sunday, August 7, 2016 at 2:35:14 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/7/2016 3:59 PM, Ian Field wrote:
Among the bikes I've stripped for salvage recently;
there
seems to be an increasing number with totally wrecked
bottom
bracket bearings.

Can't ever remember wrecking one myself - even a very
old
rusty Raleigh.

Is quality going downhill just lately?

Older (pre-1980s), products which have had no maintenance
since new are just about at life's end. Lubricants
dessicate
and fail, bearings and bearing surfaces shortly after.

Just about anything except very top-end models after
roughly
1990 were mostly built without significant shop prep as
labor costs rose. Most shops quit full all-parts-off new
bicycle prep and the factory setup was marginal at best.
There are exceptions but that's the general run of it.

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50 years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I've taken apart 10 or 12 year old bike bottom brackets
and the grease is
black with dirt and wear from rollers running on bare
metal.

With maintenance old fashioned open roller bottom
brackets will last
forever.

Most of the real old bikes I ended up with probably never
got any oil since
leaving the shop.

Very often rusty, but advanced lubricants hide many sins.
Once or twice I've
had to adjust bottom bracket bearing on old bikes - but
never had to repair
a broken one.

A relative had a complete BB bearing failure on a very
recent bike, the
spacer cage had been crushed and the shop didn't have
any, so I filled the
cup with balls. AFAIK: My brother sold the bike when the
relative passed on.

If you do that again the old rule of thumb was always one
ball less
than full. You put balls in the outer race, shoulder to
shoulder, as
it were until it is full. Then take out one ball and
assemble the
bearing.


Utter bollox as I'd expect from you.

Leaving one ball out creates a gap that the cone settles
into - then the cone will be resting the entire force on the
2 balls that are either side of the gap.

The cup is always designed so too many balls won't fit, and
too few will be obvious.


For any given standard cup-and-cone design, the correct count minus one
will ride at the exact same diameter and run just fine (albeit with faster
wear from fewer wear points).

Add one more than correct count and balls contact sections of the cup
and/or cone the designer never intended. The system will chew itself up
in short order. Hence the general rule of thumb to run short when in
doubt.


You must be working with some very badly designed bearings!

All the ones I've seen had a very small clearance when correctly filled.
Leaving a ball out creates a gap that the cone deflects into under load -
then; only 2 ball bearings are carrying all of the load.

It really is that simple!!!

Ads
  #22  
Old August 11th 16, 07:23 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default Knackered bottom bracket.



"John B." wrote in message
...
On Wed, 10 Aug 2016 20:45:15 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"John B." wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 9 Aug 2016 19:30:48 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Sunday, August 7, 2016 at 2:35:14 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/7/2016 3:59 PM, Ian Field wrote:
Among the bikes I've stripped for salvage recently; there
seems to be an increasing number with totally wrecked bottom
bracket bearings.

Can't ever remember wrecking one myself - even a very old
rusty Raleigh.

Is quality going downhill just lately?

Older (pre-1980s), products which have had no maintenance
since new are just about at life's end. Lubricants dessicate
and fail, bearings and bearing surfaces shortly after.

Just about anything except very top-end models after roughly
1990 were mostly built without significant shop prep as
labor costs rose. Most shops quit full all-parts-off new
bicycle prep and the factory setup was marginal at best.
There are exceptions but that's the general run of it.

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50 years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I've taken apart 10 or 12 year old bike bottom brackets and the grease
is
black with dirt and wear from rollers running on bare metal.

With maintenance old fashioned open roller bottom brackets will last
forever.

Most of the real old bikes I ended up with probably never got any oil
since
leaving the shop.

Very often rusty, but advanced lubricants hide many sins. Once or twice
I've
had to adjust bottom bracket bearing on old bikes - but never had to
repair
a broken one.

A relative had a complete BB bearing failure on a very recent bike, the
spacer cage had been crushed and the shop didn't have any, so I filled
the
cup with balls. AFAIK: My brother sold the bike when the relative passed
on.

If you do that again the old rule of thumb was always one ball less
than full. You put balls in the outer race, shoulder to shoulder, as
it were until it is full. Then take out one ball and assemble the
bearing.


Utter bollox as I'd expect from you.

Leaving one ball out creates a gap that the cone settles into - then the
cone will be resting the entire force on the 2 balls that are either side
of
the gap.

The cup is always designed so too many balls won't fit, and too few will
be
obvious.


Yup, Certainly!

Of course a great many others don't agree with you. For example:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...icle-section-7

But of course, the fact that probably the largest maker of bike tools
in the U.S. doesn't agree with you is no cause for alarm.



Oranges to onions - AFAICS: that only describes the caged variety of
cone/cup bearing - leaving a ball out of that would still fail in short
order.

And I'm really puzzled how someone even as thick as you can get confused
about how many ball bearings to fit in a caged assembly!!!

The fact remains - if you leave a gap in a filled cup; the cone will deflect
into the gap and 2 ball bearings will carry the whole load.

It really is that simple!!!!!

  #23  
Old August 11th 16, 11:09 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default Knackered bottom bracket.

On 8/11/2016 1:13 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 8/10/2016 2:45 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"John B." wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Aug 2016 19:30:48 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
...


On Sunday, August 7, 2016 at 2:35:14 PM UTC-7, AMuzi
wrote:
On 8/7/2016 3:59 PM, Ian Field wrote:
Among the bikes I've stripped for salvage recently;
there
seems to be an increasing number with totally wrecked
bottom
bracket bearings.

Can't ever remember wrecking one myself - even a very
old
rusty Raleigh.

Is quality going downhill just lately?

Older (pre-1980s), products which have had no
maintenance
since new are just about at life's end. Lubricants
dessicate
and fail, bearings and bearing surfaces shortly after.

Just about anything except very top-end models after
roughly
1990 were mostly built without significant shop prep as
labor costs rose. Most shops quit full all-parts-off new
bicycle prep and the factory setup was marginal at best.
There are exceptions but that's the general run of it.

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep
even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for
new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50
years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I've taken apart 10 or 12 year old bike bottom brackets
and the grease is
black with dirt and wear from rollers running on bare
metal.

With maintenance old fashioned open roller bottom
brackets will last
forever.

Most of the real old bikes I ended up with probably never
got any oil since
leaving the shop.

Very often rusty, but advanced lubricants hide many sins.
Once or twice I've
had to adjust bottom bracket bearing on old bikes - but
never had to repair
a broken one.

A relative had a complete BB bearing failure on a very
recent bike, the
spacer cage had been crushed and the shop didn't have
any, so I filled the
cup with balls. AFAIK: My brother sold the bike when the
relative passed on.

If you do that again the old rule of thumb was always one
ball less
than full. You put balls in the outer race, shoulder to
shoulder, as
it were until it is full. Then take out one ball and
assemble the
bearing.

Utter bollox as I'd expect from you.

Leaving one ball out creates a gap that the cone settles
into - then the cone will be resting the entire force on the
2 balls that are either side of the gap.

The cup is always designed so too many balls won't fit, and
too few will be obvious.


For any given standard cup-and-cone design, the correct
count minus one will ride at the exact same diameter and
run just fine (albeit with faster wear from fewer wear
points).

Add one more than correct count and balls contact sections
of the cup and/or cone the designer never intended. The
system will chew itself up in short order. Hence the
general rule of thumb to run short when in doubt.


You must be working with some very badly designed bearings!

All the ones I've seen had a very small clearance when
correctly filled. Leaving a ball out creates a gap that the
cone deflects into under load - then; only 2 ball bearings
are carrying all of the load.

It really is that simple!!!


It is simple, but the concept has escaped you.

Imagine a cup and cone system (such as a front hub) designed
for ten balls but with only nine balls installed. The balls
contact the calculated track centered on both cup and cone.
Now imagine eleven balls. They cannot contact the center
of the curves on cup and cone as one or more will be askew,
inherently.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #24  
Old August 12th 16, 08:36 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default Knackered bottom bracket.



"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 8/11/2016 1:13 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 8/10/2016 2:45 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"John B." wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Aug 2016 19:30:48 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
...


On Sunday, August 7, 2016 at 2:35:14 PM UTC-7, AMuzi
wrote:
On 8/7/2016 3:59 PM, Ian Field wrote:
Among the bikes I've stripped for salvage recently;
there
seems to be an increasing number with totally wrecked
bottom
bracket bearings.

Can't ever remember wrecking one myself - even a very
old
rusty Raleigh.

Is quality going downhill just lately?

Older (pre-1980s), products which have had no
maintenance
since new are just about at life's end. Lubricants
dessicate
and fail, bearings and bearing surfaces shortly after.

Just about anything except very top-end models after
roughly
1990 were mostly built without significant shop prep as
labor costs rose. Most shops quit full all-parts-off new
bicycle prep and the factory setup was marginal at best.
There are exceptions but that's the general run of it.

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep
even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for
new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50
years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I've taken apart 10 or 12 year old bike bottom brackets
and the grease is
black with dirt and wear from rollers running on bare
metal.

With maintenance old fashioned open roller bottom
brackets will last
forever.

Most of the real old bikes I ended up with probably never
got any oil since
leaving the shop.

Very often rusty, but advanced lubricants hide many sins.
Once or twice I've
had to adjust bottom bracket bearing on old bikes - but
never had to repair
a broken one.

A relative had a complete BB bearing failure on a very
recent bike, the
spacer cage had been crushed and the shop didn't have
any, so I filled the
cup with balls. AFAIK: My brother sold the bike when the
relative passed on.

If you do that again the old rule of thumb was always one
ball less
than full. You put balls in the outer race, shoulder to
shoulder, as
it were until it is full. Then take out one ball and
assemble the
bearing.

Utter bollox as I'd expect from you.

Leaving one ball out creates a gap that the cone settles
into - then the cone will be resting the entire force on the
2 balls that are either side of the gap.

The cup is always designed so too many balls won't fit, and
too few will be obvious.

For any given standard cup-and-cone design, the correct
count minus one will ride at the exact same diameter and
run just fine (albeit with faster wear from fewer wear
points).

Add one more than correct count and balls contact sections
of the cup and/or cone the designer never intended. The
system will chew itself up in short order. Hence the
general rule of thumb to run short when in doubt.


You must be working with some very badly designed bearings!

All the ones I've seen had a very small clearance when
correctly filled. Leaving a ball out creates a gap that the
cone deflects into under load - then; only 2 ball bearings
are carrying all of the load.

It really is that simple!!!


It is simple, but the concept has escaped you.

Imagine a cup and cone system (such as a front hub) designed for ten balls
but with only nine balls installed. The balls contact the calculated track
centered on both cup and cone. Now imagine eleven balls. They cannot
contact the center of the curves on cup and cone as one or more will be
askew, inherently.


You must be working with some very badly designed bearings!!!

All I've ever seen have a very small clearance when correctly filled. If you
try to cram an extra ball in - it'll be blindingly obvious that the cone
doesn't sit right.

If you fill the cup, then take out one ball as John.B said - there will be a
gap that the cone deflects into under load.

That will impose said load on just 2 of all the ball bearings.

Still, if you just don't get it - its no surprise that you toddle along
behind a ****wit like John.B.

  #25  
Old August 12th 16, 11:07 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,011
Default Knackered bottom bracket.

On Thursday, August 11, 2016 at 2:13:09 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 8/10/2016 2:45 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"John B." wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Aug 2016 19:30:48 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
...

On Sunday, August 7, 2016 at 2:35:14 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/7/2016 3:59 PM, Ian Field wrote:
Among the bikes I've stripped for salvage recently;
there
seems to be an increasing number with totally wrecked
bottom
bracket bearings.

Can't ever remember wrecking one myself - even a very
old
rusty Raleigh.

Is quality going downhill just lately?

Older (pre-1980s), products which have had no maintenance
since new are just about at life's end. Lubricants
dessicate
and fail, bearings and bearing surfaces shortly after.

Just about anything except very top-end models after
roughly
1990 were mostly built without significant shop prep as
labor costs rose. Most shops quit full all-parts-off new
bicycle prep and the factory setup was marginal at best.
There are exceptions but that's the general run of it.

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50 years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I've taken apart 10 or 12 year old bike bottom brackets
and the grease is
black with dirt and wear from rollers running on bare
metal.

With maintenance old fashioned open roller bottom
brackets will last
forever.

Most of the real old bikes I ended up with probably never
got any oil since
leaving the shop.

Very often rusty, but advanced lubricants hide many sins.
Once or twice I've
had to adjust bottom bracket bearing on old bikes - but
never had to repair
a broken one.

A relative had a complete BB bearing failure on a very
recent bike, the
spacer cage had been crushed and the shop didn't have
any, so I filled the
cup with balls. AFAIK: My brother sold the bike when the
relative passed on.

If you do that again the old rule of thumb was always one
ball less
than full. You put balls in the outer race, shoulder to
shoulder, as
it were until it is full. Then take out one ball and
assemble the
bearing.

Utter bollox as I'd expect from you.

Leaving one ball out creates a gap that the cone settles
into - then the cone will be resting the entire force on the
2 balls that are either side of the gap.

The cup is always designed so too many balls won't fit, and
too few will be obvious.


For any given standard cup-and-cone design, the correct count minus one
will ride at the exact same diameter and run just fine (albeit with faster
wear from fewer wear points).

Add one more than correct count and balls contact sections of the cup
and/or cone the designer never intended. The system will chew itself up
in short order. Hence the general rule of thumb to run short when in
doubt.


You must be working with some very badly designed bearings!

All the ones I've seen had a very small clearance when correctly filled.
Leaving a ball out creates a gap that the cone deflects into under load -
then; only 2 ball bearings are carrying all of the load.

It really is that simple!!!


ask the LBS for a retainer of your cone size n check the spacings ....if you owned a formula car a video is necessary.
  #26  
Old August 12th 16, 11:34 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default Knackered bottom bracket.

On 8/12/2016 2:36 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 8/11/2016 1:13 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 8/10/2016 2:45 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"John B." wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Aug 2016 19:30:48 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
...



On Sunday, August 7, 2016 at 2:35:14 PM UTC-7, AMuzi
wrote:
On 8/7/2016 3:59 PM, Ian Field wrote:
Among the bikes I've stripped for salvage recently;
there
seems to be an increasing number with totally
wrecked
bottom
bracket bearings.

Can't ever remember wrecking one myself - even a
very
old
rusty Raleigh.

Is quality going downhill just lately?

Older (pre-1980s), products which have had no
maintenance
since new are just about at life's end. Lubricants
dessicate
and fail, bearings and bearing surfaces shortly after.

Just about anything except very top-end models after
roughly
1990 were mostly built without significant shop
prep as
labor costs rose. Most shops quit full
all-parts-off new
bicycle prep and the factory setup was marginal at
best.
There are exceptions but that's the general run of it.

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep
even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for
new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50
years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I've taken apart 10 or 12 year old bike bottom brackets
and the grease is
black with dirt and wear from rollers running on bare
metal.

With maintenance old fashioned open roller bottom
brackets will last
forever.

Most of the real old bikes I ended up with probably
never
got any oil since
leaving the shop.

Very often rusty, but advanced lubricants hide many
sins.
Once or twice I've
had to adjust bottom bracket bearing on old bikes - but
never had to repair
a broken one.

A relative had a complete BB bearing failure on a very
recent bike, the
spacer cage had been crushed and the shop didn't have
any, so I filled the
cup with balls. AFAIK: My brother sold the bike when the
relative passed on.

If you do that again the old rule of thumb was always one
ball less
than full. You put balls in the outer race, shoulder to
shoulder, as
it were until it is full. Then take out one ball and
assemble the
bearing.

Utter bollox as I'd expect from you.

Leaving one ball out creates a gap that the cone settles
into - then the cone will be resting the entire force
on the
2 balls that are either side of the gap.

The cup is always designed so too many balls won't fit,
and
too few will be obvious.

For any given standard cup-and-cone design, the correct
count minus one will ride at the exact same diameter and
run just fine (albeit with faster wear from fewer wear
points).

Add one more than correct count and balls contact sections
of the cup and/or cone the designer never intended. The
system will chew itself up in short order. Hence the
general rule of thumb to run short when in doubt.

You must be working with some very badly designed bearings!

All the ones I've seen had a very small clearance when
correctly filled. Leaving a ball out creates a gap that the
cone deflects into under load - then; only 2 ball bearings
are carrying all of the load.

It really is that simple!!!


It is simple, but the concept has escaped you.

Imagine a cup and cone system (such as a front hub)
designed for ten balls but with only nine balls installed.
The balls contact the calculated track centered on both
cup and cone. Now imagine eleven balls. They cannot
contact the center of the curves on cup and cone as one or
more will be askew, inherently.


You must be working with some very badly designed bearings!!!

All I've ever seen have a very small clearance when
correctly filled. If you try to cram an extra ball in -
it'll be blindingly obvious that the cone doesn't sit right.

If you fill the cup, then take out one ball as John.B said -
there will be a gap that the cone deflects into under load.

That will impose said load on just 2 of all the ball bearings.

Still, if you just don't get it - its no surprise that you
toddle along behind a ****wit like John.B.


Our loose-ball BB and hub bearings look something like this:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...ast/bgsect.jpg

In our applications, the curve on the cone and cup are
larger radius than the ball (which allows some tolerance for
misalignment and wear) but the principle is the same in that
there is a correct load diameter for the balls.

Running short count, such as 9 in place of ten, will run
acceptably well at that same diameter[1]. Wear will be
proportionally faster but it will not immediately and
catastrophically fail. Over count, such as eleven in place
of ten, will fail quickly and dramatically as the balls
cannot all run at the correct diameter on the actual bearing
surfaces.

[1] that's for 'short one ball'. Ridiculous examples such as
half-count would suffer severe misalignment once all the
balls go to one side, which they will.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #27  
Old August 13th 16, 07:52 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default Knackered bottom bracket.



"DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, August 11, 2016 at 2:13:09 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 8/10/2016 2:45 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"John B." wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Aug 2016 19:30:48 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
...

On Sunday, August 7, 2016 at 2:35:14 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/7/2016 3:59 PM, Ian Field wrote:
Among the bikes I've stripped for salvage recently;
there
seems to be an increasing number with totally wrecked
bottom
bracket bearings.

Can't ever remember wrecking one myself - even a very
old
rusty Raleigh.

Is quality going downhill just lately?

Older (pre-1980s), products which have had no maintenance
since new are just about at life's end. Lubricants
dessicate
and fail, bearings and bearing surfaces shortly after.

Just about anything except very top-end models after
roughly
1990 were mostly built without significant shop prep as
labor costs rose. Most shops quit full all-parts-off new
bicycle prep and the factory setup was marginal at best.
There are exceptions but that's the general run of it.

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50 years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I've taken apart 10 or 12 year old bike bottom brackets
and the grease is
black with dirt and wear from rollers running on bare
metal.

With maintenance old fashioned open roller bottom
brackets will last
forever.

Most of the real old bikes I ended up with probably never
got any oil since
leaving the shop.

Very often rusty, but advanced lubricants hide many sins.
Once or twice I've
had to adjust bottom bracket bearing on old bikes - but
never had to repair
a broken one.

A relative had a complete BB bearing failure on a very
recent bike, the
spacer cage had been crushed and the shop didn't have
any, so I filled the
cup with balls. AFAIK: My brother sold the bike when the
relative passed on.

If you do that again the old rule of thumb was always one
ball less
than full. You put balls in the outer race, shoulder to
shoulder, as
it were until it is full. Then take out one ball and
assemble the
bearing.

Utter bollox as I'd expect from you.

Leaving one ball out creates a gap that the cone settles
into - then the cone will be resting the entire force on the
2 balls that are either side of the gap.

The cup is always designed so too many balls won't fit, and
too few will be obvious.

For any given standard cup-and-cone design, the correct count minus one
will ride at the exact same diameter and run just fine (albeit with
faster
wear from fewer wear points).

Add one more than correct count and balls contact sections of the cup
and/or cone the designer never intended. The system will chew itself
up
in short order. Hence the general rule of thumb to run short when in
doubt.


You must be working with some very badly designed bearings!

All the ones I've seen had a very small clearance when correctly filled.
Leaving a ball out creates a gap that the cone deflects into under load -
then; only 2 ball bearings are carrying all of the load.

It really is that simple!!!


ask the LBS for a retainer of your cone size n check the spacings ....if
you owned a formula car a video is necessary.


If I was a bearing designer - I probably wouldn't have suggested using
retainer/spacers. The higher failure rate compared to filled cup bearings
speaks for itself.

Having said that - most 2-stroke conrod bearings are caged needle roller
bearings. But I think the load bearing properties of needle rollers are a
whole 'nother story.

 




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