new chain, slack

AMuzi wrote:

But half links are an actual thing, 100+
years old, cheap, available anywhere.
More readily found than a 35t chainring!

I've heard of them but never operated one or
even seen one (I think).

The application being when +1 link is too
slack, and -1 link is too tight?

Are they compatible with all chains?

Also, I didn't understand your rotary air file
method. What is a "single-point ends"?
Thanks for your patience

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

On 1/3/2018 6:03 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
AMuzi wrote:

But half links are an actual thing, 100+
years old, cheap, available anywhere.
More readily found than a 35t chainring!

I've heard of them but never operated one or
even seen one (I think).

The application being when +1 link is too
slack, and -1 link is too tight?

Are they compatible with all chains?

Also, I didn't understand your rotary air file
method. What is a "single-point ends"?
Thanks for your patience

See your local LBS:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/HALFLINK.JPG
for 1/2 x 1/8" chain.

Classic road & track ends allow axle movement to correct
chain length for wear and tension.
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/HARDENDS.JPG

Single point ends are for use with derailleurs or other
chain tension devices:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/endbs13.jpg

Some riders end up with a single-point frame and want fixed
or CB. ('want' but usually not enough to pay us to change
the ends) A small increase in the slot size can make enough
difference. Just did one like that on Sunday.



--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

AMuzi wrote:

See your local LBS:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/HALFLINK.JPG for
1/2 x 1/8" chain.

Classic road & track ends allow axle movement
to correct chain length for wear and tension.
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/HARDENDS.JPG

Single point ends are for use with
derailleurs or other chain tension devices:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/endbs13.jpg

Some riders end up with a single-point frame
and want fixed or CB. ('want' but usually not
enough to pay us to change the ends) A small
increase in the slot size can make enough
difference. Just did one like that on Sunday.

Very clever! And very educative, thank you.

See guys? Track ends and CBs are ultimately the
best, as I've said all along

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

BTW wasn't there yet another version for CBs
where the track was in the opposite direction
from everyday track ends, and there were screws
to fine-adjust wheel position and
chain tension?

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

On 1/3/2018 6:55 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
AMuzi wrote:

See your local LBS:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/HALFLINK.JPG for
1/2 x 1/8" chain.

Classic road & track ends allow axle movement
to correct chain length for wear and tension.
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/HARDENDS.JPG

Single point ends are for use with
derailleurs or other chain tension devices:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/endbs13.jpg

Some riders end up with a single-point frame
and want fixed or CB. ('want' but usually not
enough to pay us to change the ends) A small
increase in the slot size can make enough
difference. Just did one like that on Sunday.

Very clever! And very educative, thank you.

See guys? Track ends and CBs are ultimately the
best, as I've said all along


To quote Duane 'Double Century' Hickling, 'Anything worth
doing is worth overdoing'

http://kmcchain.us/chaintype/half-link-series-12x18/

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 1/3/2018 7:17 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
BTW wasn't there yet another version for CBs
where the track was in the opposite direction
from everyday track ends, and there were screws
to fine-adjust wheel position and
chain tension?


Those track ends (horizontal with opening at the rear) had
an adjuster screw from the front.
http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l400...88879797_1.jpg

Cheaper than a separate chain adjuster but the same effect:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/GCDL5.JPG

With either, axle nuts bear a smaller load so wheels stay in
place with hardly any wrench torque.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 1/3/2018 6:54 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/3/2018 4:38 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 1/3/2018 4:57 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/3/2018 3:08 PM, dave wrote:
On Wed, 03 Jan 2018 01:52:31 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:

If you mean a tool to check the wear of a chain, yes
there are several
varieties.

No, I mean a tool to check how tightly the chain is
mounted on the bike,
which I suppose is a function of chain wear to some
degree but even more
so the distance between sprocket and chainring, i.e. how
far the rear
wheel is pulled back?

I use the Mk. 1 Finger.


And the method of quantification could be the possible
vertical movement
of the chain at its loosest?

Exactly! Finger the chain upwards. If there is too much
slack tighten. If
it's too taught loosen it.

So if there is anyone out there who can tell me how to
tighten the chain
on a bike with no adjustment I would be grateful.

34 front 23 rear on an Alfine 11. 1/2 link tighter would
be nice.


Why didn't you use a half link then?

I'm seeing marketing opportunities here. For Emanuel, a
special iFinger tool, bluetooth connected to one's phone,
using super GPS to tell how far the single speed chain is
rising when force is applied. No more by guess and by golly,
by golly!

And sure, half links sound useful, but why stop there? By
choosing between the half link, the one-third link, the
one-quarter link, etc. a non-derailleur cyclist could
finally get his chain tension perfectly right. Just the
thing to show off at the coffee shop!

And software! We have programmers here who could write the
iFinger app to help select just the right combination of
non-integer links.

We'll make millions of dollars! ... or, well, maybe tens of
dollars. Or maybe ones of dollars.



But half links are an actual thing, 100+ years old, cheap, available
anywhere.

I know, but I've never used one on a bike. Oddly enough, I have a
motorcycle-sized one in one of my little drawers of miscellaneous
mechanical junk. It's from my pre-BMW days.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On 1/3/2018 8:35 PM, AMuzi wrote:

To quote Duane 'Double Century' Hickling, 'Anything worth doing is worth
overdoing'

http://kmcchain.us/chaintype/half-link-series-12x18/

I once went to a three-day seminar on industrial power transmission
equipment. It sounded good in the brochure.

At one point, the "expert" doing the seminar said that he didn't know
why chain manufacturers didn't sell industrial chains made entirely of
half links, like the ones in your photo. He said they would be much
stronger.

By that point, I'd already written off the seminar as worthless.


--
- Frank Krygowski

AMuzi wrote:

Cheaper than a separate chain adjuster but
the same effect:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/GCDL5.JPG

It is difficult to see what happens there...?

Here is another way:

https://cdn.gasbike.net/images_templ...ioner-demo.jpg

Which I once saw on a tandem bike. There was
a small chainwheel in between that one could
adjust vertically to set the chain tension.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

AMuzi wrote:

Take a couple of minutes to read Jobst
Brandt's chain wear analysis in the purple
text box he

http://www.yellowjersey.org/3%2732.html

Now I've read the text, and it was certainly
worth the so-called "couple of minutes" it took
to read and understand it

What would further enhance its educational
value are are a couple of illustrations!

First, the difference between five and six
element chains (5 being the swaged bushings
model). I Googled this and found your site
among the first hits! But alas, no good
illustration (or photo).

Then illos/photos for chain and sprocket wear,
skipping, and "chainsuck"...

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573