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Slime Self Healing PV Road Tube?!?!
On Thu, 3 May 2007 22:43:22 -0500, "Mike Kruger"
wrote: wrote: Slime itself is edible. How's it compare to a Powerbar? Well, it sticks to your ribs a lot better. -- zk |
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#12
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Slime Self Healing PV Road Tube?!?!
On May 3, 10:43 pm, "Mike Kruger" wrote:
wrote: Slime itself is edible. How's it compare to a Powerbar? Probably tastes better......but don't let that info leak out. |
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Slime Self Healing PV Road Tube?!?!
Prisoner at War asked: Slime Self Healing PV Road Tube? I think that some of the previous replies to this query addressed the use of Slime tubes in tires that are larger and run at much lower pressures than those on road bikes. I've used Slimes on MTBs ridden on-road with 60 PSI, and they seem to seal fast enough to retain some air; I think this is primarily because it's easier to plug the leak at pressures lower than the 100 to 125 PSI commonly used for narrow road bike tires, and the air lost from the tube during the sealing process has less effect because of the larger volume of air in the fat tire tubes. In my experience with Slimes on road bikes, they may seal a goathead puncture, but the tire is likely to have lost too much air to keep riding on it. It may be easier to just reinflate the tire rather than hassle with a patch or tube replacement on the roadside, but that's about the best you should hope for. Slime is more likely to clog Presta valves with internals that aren't easily removed or replaced like the Schrader valves more commonly used with wider rims and fat tires. Also, as other folks have said, it can be a real mess to clean up after a leaking Slime tube, especially if it's your only option for a roadside repair. On balance, my vote is: Slime for MTBs - maybe; road bikes - NO. Also, has anyone any experience with glueless patch kits? How are they, how do they work? Glueless is a blatant misnomer. These clear polyurethane patches use glue to attach to the leaking tube, just like conventional black rubber patches. They don't require the separate application of 'glue' from a tube as a surface prep before sticking them on the tire. Some of these patches 'work', at least marginally, temporarily. If you clean the area with an alcohol swab, let it dry and apply the patch carefully, let it set awhile and don't disturb it in the process of remounting the tire, one can be a viable 'quick' fix to get back on the road. It's probably a better repair than a hastily, sloppily applied 'glued' patch. Again, I found them much harder to apply on small section road bike tubes, and less successful than on fat tired bikes. Even when I use one on an MTBs, I still try to remember to replace a glueless patch with a glued rubber patch once I have the bike back home. The most common failure I've seen with PU patches is a thin line, sort of like a wrinkle, from hole to outside edge where the patch comes unbonded from the tube, and forms a slow leak. Another thing that can wreck a repair job with a 'glueless' patch is inflating the tube outside the tire; PU patches just don't stretch as well as rubber ones. Again, my vote is: if you have the time to apply a rubber patch properly, use that rather than a glueless patch. If you're in a bigger hurry, swap the tube. Regards, Wayne Leggett 3-2-GO The Trike Store Ventura CA |
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