"I learned about cycling from that" (tire repair story with tips).

Hola from hot and windy San Diego

Had a flat today. I used one old trick and came up with what is, for
me, a new trick.

Old Trick: When installing a tire, make sure an obvious mark on the
outside of the tire lines up with valve stem. For example, when I last
pulled my front tire on, I made sure the "x" in the 700x38 tire size
was right next to the valve stem. Then, when it flatted today, I was
able to measure the distance from valve to puncture in the tube and
easily find and extract the perpetrator (piece of broken beer bottle).

New (for me) Trick: Ready to inflate a tire with a minipump? lay wheel
horizonally, so the pump is vertical. Now take your multitool
(sheathed, if it has a sheath), a book or even a wooden alphabet block
and use it to support the head of the pump. This does two things that I
can think of. The first is to relive some of the stress and strain on
the tube's valve stem. The second is the pumper can use more of their
body weight on the pump. It'll probably still take the same number of
strokes to inflate the tire (unless you've got a really leaky pump
head). However, using body weight as well as upper body strength makes
the individual strokes potentially much quicker, easier, or even
possible when pressure is high ... but ... not ... quite ... (grunt)
.... there ... yet.

What did I miss or get wrong?

Robert Leone

:
: Old Trick: When installing a tire, make sure an obvious mark on the
: outside of the tire lines up with valve stem. For example, when I last
: pulled my front tire on, I made sure the "x" in the 700x38 tire size
: was right next to the valve stem. Then, when it flatted today, I was
: able to measure the distance from valve to puncture in the tube and
: easily find and extract the perpetrator (piece of broken beer bottle).

It has long been the standard when putting a tire on to put the
manufacturer's bright, colored logo next to the valve. If you look at any
new bike at a bike shop, you'll see every one of them is set up like that.
Seems to me that the logo is quicker and easier to find that the X in the
700 x 38 which would be black on black.....


: New (for me) Trick: Ready to inflate a tire with a minipump? lay wheel
: horizonally, so the pump is vertical. Now take your multitool
: (sheathed, if it has a sheath), a book or even a wooden alphabet block
: and use it to support the head of the pump. This does two things that I
: can think of. The first is to relive some of the stress and strain on
: the tube's valve stem. The second is the pumper can use more of their
: body weight on the pump. It'll probably still take the same number of
: strokes to inflate the tire (unless you've got a really leaky pump
: head). However, using body weight as well as upper body strength makes
: the individual strokes potentially much quicker, easier, or even
: possible when pressure is high ... but ... not ... quite ... (grunt)
: ... there ... yet.
:
: What did I miss or get wrong?

Well, if you had a Topeak Road Morph, you wouldn't have had to do everything
in your second paragraph. That's why they are so highly recommended....

Pat in TX

wrote:

New (for me) Trick: Ready to inflate a tire with a minipump? lay wheel
horizonally, so the pump is vertical. Now take your multitool
(sheathed, if it has a sheath), a book or even a wooden alphabet block
and use it to support the head of the pump. This does two things that I
can think of. The first is to relive some of the stress and strain on
the tube's valve stem. The second is the pumper can use more of their
body weight on the pump. It'll probably still take the same number of
strokes to inflate the tire (unless you've got a really leaky pump
head). However, using body weight as well as upper body strength makes
the individual strokes potentially much quicker, easier, or even
possible when pressure is high ... but ... not ... quite ... (grunt)
... there ... yet.

What did I miss or get wrong?

I find it easier to just use a tree, fencepost, wall, or other
VERTICAL object to pump against. Pushing down against a frame pump
seems harder than pushing sideways (YMMV). That way you can still put
your body weight against the pump, but there's less chance of the pump
slipping and ripping the valve out of the tube.

One other thing that helps is to buy a pump with an appropriate
diameter for the amount of pressure you're trying to reach - a fat
pump for low-pressure MTB tires, a skinny pump for high-pressure
slicks and road tires. Trying to get 100+ psi into a 35mm semi-slick
tire with a fat ol' MTB pump is no fun for anyone.

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $795 ti frame

Hi Pat:
Pat wrote:
It has long been the standard when putting a tire on to put the
manufacturer's bright, colored logo next to the valve. If you look at any
new bike at a bike shop, you'll see every one of them is set up like that.
Seems to me that the logo is quicker and easier to find that the X in the
700 x 38 which would be black on black.....
I've had the bright logo stickers fall or wear off a few times,
including the current front tire that was the subject of this post.
I'll keep this in mind for when it's not my bike I'm fixing. Thanks!
SNIP

Well, if you had a Topeak Road Morph, you wouldn't have had to do everything
in your second paragraph. That's why they are so highly recommended....

I don't think Topeak Road Morphs were on the market when I set up the
patch kit for this bike. Not sure one would fit in the already-crammed
bke rack trunk, either. Thanks for the advice. I may consider the Road
Morph for my next bike -- if I don't go with a Zefal frame pump.


Pat in TX

I just use a full length pump with a medium width barrel. Pums |faster,
reaches full pressure with less effort, and comes in quite handy when
being chased by that unfenced dog.

- -

Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

"May you have the winds at your back,
And a really low gear for the hills!"

Chris'Z Corner
http://www.geocities.com/czcorner

19 Nov 2005 15:58:35 -0800,
.com,
wrote:

Hi Pat:
Pat wrote:
It has long been the standard when putting a tire on to put the
manufacturer's bright, colored logo next to the valve. If you look at any
new bike at a bike shop, you'll see every one of them is set up like that.
Seems to me that the logo is quicker and easier to find that the X in the
700 x 38 which would be black on black.....
I've had the bright logo stickers fall or wear off a few times,
including the current front tire that was the subject of this post.
I'll keep this in mind for when it's not my bike I'm fixing. Thanks!

After a bit of winter slop, I would not be able to find my sidewall
labels if I'd not put them at the valve hole.

Why not put the pertinent pressure rating, which is also molded into
the rubber, at the valve stem where it's hand? That would be more
important than tire size.

SNIP

Well, if you had a Topeak Road Morph, you wouldn't have had to do everything
in your second paragraph. That's why they are so highly recommended....

I don't think Topeak Road Morphs were on the market when I set up the
patch kit for this bike. Not sure one would fit in the already-crammed
bke rack trunk, either. Thanks for the advice. I may consider the Road
Morph for my next bike -- if I don't go with a Zefal frame pump.

I situate the valve vertically at the top of the wheel and use my knee
against the elbow of my stroking arm. The other hand grips the rim,
tire and pump head.

My pump has a high volume or high pressure setting. I run 1.4" tires
at 80 lbs. so both settings come in handy.
--
zk

(Chris Zacho "The Wheelman") wrote:

I just use a full length pump with a medium width barrel. Pums |faster,
reaches full pressure with less effort, and comes in quite handy when
being chased by that unfenced dog.

A great argument against mini-pumps if ever there was one. Not only
do they make you look like an overwound wind-up toy when trying to
inflate a tire, the only possible way they'll stop a charging dog is
if it has to stop to laugh at you.

OTOH, I suppose you could choke a dog with one...

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $795 ti frame