Broken freehub

wrote:
On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
Hi All,
I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
bodge it together.
Here are some pics:
http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
freehub stick and not be useable.
So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
ring.
These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
parts if the warranty falls through.
Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
Joseph
i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
I spoke too soon.
They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure.
AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
So will the spokes be too long?
Joseph
you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily
measure, thus you can calculate erd. or you can disassemble the wheel
[since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. then you have all
you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement
hub. or whether the old ones will fit.

I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc
spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the
spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.

Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American
Classic hub. Close enough.

Joseph

question: why use that hub? they're not on the list of racing greats.
or reliability greats either come to that. is it flange size?

On Apr 12, 4:50Â*pm, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
Hi All,
I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
bodge it together.
Here are some pics:
http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
freehub stick and not be useable.
So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
ring.
These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
parts if the warranty falls through.
Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
Joseph
i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
I spoke too soon.
They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure.
AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
So will the spokes be too long?
Joseph
you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily
measure, thus you can calculate erd. Â*or you can disassemble the wheel
[since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. Â*then you have all
you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement
hub. Â*or whether the old ones will fit.

I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc
spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the
spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.

Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American
Classic hub. Close enough.

Joseph

question: why use that hub? Â*they're not on the list of racing greats..
or reliability greats either come to that. Â*is it flange size?

The only reason I am considering it is the flange size makes it almost
a drop-in replacement for the Chung Huar hub that is there.

The rim is 24 hole, and I want bladed spokes. So if I replace with an
Ultegra or Dura Ace I'll have a super reliable hub, but I'll have to
buy new spokes too, as the flange size is significantly different.
It's basically a question of economy. Over priced semi-reliable AC
hub, or similarly priced top quality Dura Ace + new spokes?

Joseph

wrote:
On Apr 12, 4:50 pm, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
Hi All,
I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
bodge it together.
Here are some pics:
http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
freehub stick and not be useable.
So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
ring.
These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
parts if the warranty falls through.
Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
Joseph
i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
I spoke too soon.
They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure.
AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
So will the spokes be too long?
Joseph
you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily
measure, thus you can calculate erd. or you can disassemble the wheel
[since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. then you have all
you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement
hub. or whether the old ones will fit.
I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc
spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the
spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.
Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American
Classic hub. Close enough.
Joseph
question: why use that hub? they're not on the list of racing greats.
or reliability greats either come to that. is it flange size?

The only reason I am considering it is the flange size makes it almost
a drop-in replacement for the Chung Huar hub that is there.

The rim is 24 hole, and I want bladed spokes. So if I replace with an
Ultegra or Dura Ace I'll have a super reliable hub, but I'll have to
buy new spokes too, as the flange size is significantly different.
It's basically a question of economy. Over priced semi-reliable AC
hub, or similarly priced top quality Dura Ace + new spokes?

Joseph

i'm pretty sure you can special order both dura-ace and ultegra in 24h.
you'll have absolute reliability then. and new spokes aren't such a
bad thing are they? ultegra + new spokes had got to compare favorably
with the cost of an ac hub.

On Apr 12, 5:28Â*pm, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
On Apr 12, 4:50 pm, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
Hi All,
I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
bodge it together.
Here are some pics:
http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
freehub stick and not be useable.
So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
ring.
These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
parts if the warranty falls through.
Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
Joseph
i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
I spoke too soon.
They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure..
AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
So will the spokes be too long?
Joseph
you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily
measure, thus you can calculate erd. Â*or you can disassemble the wheel
[since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. Â*then you have all
you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement
hub. Â*or whether the old ones will fit.
I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc
spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the
spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.
Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American
Classic hub. Close enough.
Joseph
question: why use that hub? Â*they're not on the list of racing greats.
or reliability greats either come to that. Â*is it flange size?

The only reason I am considering it is the flange size makes it almost
a drop-in replacement for the Chung Huar hub that is there.

The rim is 24 hole, and I want bladed spokes. So if I replace with an
Ultegra or Dura Ace I'll have a super reliable hub, but I'll have to
buy new spokes too, as the flange size is significantly different.
It's basically a question of economy. Over priced semi-reliable AC
hub, or similarly priced top quality Dura Ace + new spokes?

Joseph

i'm pretty sure you can special order both dura-ace and ultegra in 24h.
Â* you'll have absolute reliability then. Â*and new spokes aren't such a
bad thing are they? Â*ultegra + new spokes had got to compare favorably
with the cost of an ac hub.

Ultegra + new spokes is where I'm leaning now. I'm not having any luck
finding 24h aero Ultegra though. Local importer doesn't have it. I
think I'm the only guy in Norway who still will use conventional hubs
so they don't have anything beyond the bare basics.

New spokes wouldn't be a bad thing, but the ones I have were only used
on one ride!

Joseph

wrote:
On Apr 12, 5:28 pm, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
On Apr 12, 4:50 pm, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
Hi All,
I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
bodge it together.
Here are some pics:
http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
freehub stick and not be useable.
So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
ring.
These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
parts if the warranty falls through.
Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
Joseph
i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
I spoke too soon.
They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure.
AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
So will the spokes be too long?
Joseph
you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily
measure, thus you can calculate erd. or you can disassemble the wheel
[since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. then you have all
you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement
hub. or whether the old ones will fit.
I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc
spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the
spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.
Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American
Classic hub. Close enough.
Joseph
question: why use that hub? they're not on the list of racing greats.
or reliability greats either come to that. is it flange size?
The only reason I am considering it is the flange size makes it almost
a drop-in replacement for the Chung Huar hub that is there.
The rim is 24 hole, and I want bladed spokes. So if I replace with an
Ultegra or Dura Ace I'll have a super reliable hub, but I'll have to
buy new spokes too, as the flange size is significantly different.
It's basically a question of economy. Over priced semi-reliable AC
hub, or similarly priced top quality Dura Ace + new spokes?
Joseph
i'm pretty sure you can special order both dura-ace and ultegra in 24h.
you'll have absolute reliability then. and new spokes aren't such a
bad thing are they? ultegra + new spokes had got to compare favorably
with the cost of an ac hub.

Ultegra + new spokes is where I'm leaning now. I'm not having any luck
finding 24h aero Ultegra though. Local importer doesn't have it. I
think I'm the only guy in Norway who still will use conventional hubs
so they don't have anything beyond the bare basics.

New spokes wouldn't be a bad thing, but the ones I have were only used
on one ride!

Joseph

do the math on 2x or even 1x - you may get lucky. and a 36h hub should
lace up to 24 spokes ok... there's a trick on calculating spoke length
if you're missing holes for this kind of lacing - should be online
somewhere...