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#21
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Installing threadless headset: ream head tube?
On 21 Sep, 16:58, Paul Conners wrote:
If it was my frame, I'd prefer to leave it as you describe and taper the wall of the headset cup/cone from the bore side. How? By lathe? (A bit tricky to "chuck".) By filing? (A bit inaccurate.) Thinning from the inside, taking away the internal dimension to produce a taper using aluminium oxide or similar, by hand and a backing rod. The external unfitted dimension remains the same and smooth. The thinner material will allow it to compress to a smaller diameter with whatever you are using as a press to instal it. The reaming performed to dimension a frame accurately is usually tiny and even steel headsets can be forced into non dimensioned steel frames given enough force. Not that you'll ever want to take them out such a frame. And why change the headset OD rather than the frame ID? This is the traditional technique. That's not wot I sed. It is feasable, although tapering from the internal dimension is easier. If the headset was some unknown brand I'd be concerned about reaming the frame to a haphazard dimension. But it is Cane Creek, the originators (and patent holders) of the threadless headset design. So I'm confident the OD is the industry standard. Still better not to excessively enlarge a head tube, shrinking it is not as easy as sticking in another headset. The thinner wall at the end will present a more even loading to the headtube with a reduced risk of frame failure in this area. * Loading will be even regardless the diameters, if proper tools & technique is used. The risk is overloading (evenly ;-) ). Reduction of all stress risers is advantageous if absolute reliability is desired. |
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#22
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Installing threadless headset: ream head tube?
Took headset, frame to LBS. He handed me the press and said "just do it". So,
I did. It went in easily. Once I got home I double-checked for roundness; it's perfect. Lotsa fuss for nothin'. Thanks to all who listened and had something to contribute. |
#23
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Installing threadless headset: ream head tube?
On 22 Sep, 02:39, Paul Conners wrote:
Took headset, frame to LBS. He handed me the press and said "just do it". So, I did. It went in easily. Once I got home I double-checked for roundness; it's perfect. Lotsa fuss for nothin'. Thanks to all who listened and had something to contribute. told ya, ya di nay nee t'cut t tube. |
#24
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Installing threadless headset: ream head tube?
Shouldn't this be followed with:
NYA NYA NYA NYAAAA NYAAAAAAA NYA!! told ya, ya di nay nee t'cut t tube. (And what is that? A new abbreviated texting language?) |
#25
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Installing threadless headset: ream head tube?
On 22 Sep, 03:35, notme wrote:
Shouldn't this be followed with: NYA NYA NYA NYAAAA NYAAAAAAA NYA!! told ya, ya di nay nee t'cut t tube. (And what is that? A new abbreviated texting language?) Borders |
#26
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Installing threadless headset: ream head tube?
On 09/21/2009 07:34 AM, P. Chisholm wrote:
On Sep 20, 3:15�pm, wrote: On Sep 20, 1:52�am, Paul wrote: Instructions coming with Cane Creek S-3 headset more than suggests, they say it is imperative that the head tube be reamed prior to pressing in the cups. Is reaming standard practice when installing headsets? This is an external set (ie, not incorporated type) with sealed bearings. The frame is 6061-T6 aluminum with 1&1/8 inch threadless steer tube. Thanks. With regard to prepping in general, the last thing you want to do is fail to prep the bottom bracket and other treads to remove paint, metal or other residue that has fouled the treads during fabrication. If the threading is tight because it is obstructed, it can loosen more easily if the obstruction erodes and the threads may then become damaged. Proper prepping doesn't cause damage, it prevents it. Reality, what a concept. and over-zealously "prepped" bb threads cause squeaking and premature wear because they allow excessive radial movement. in that regard, paint is a non-issue. indeed, it may even be a benefit. |
#27
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Installing threadless headset: ream head tube?
On 22 Sep, 04:21, jim beam wrote:
On 09/21/2009 07:34 AM, P. Chisholm wrote: On Sep 20, 3:15 pm, *wrote: On Sep 20, 1:52 am, Paul *wrote: Instructions coming with Cane Creek S-3 headset more than suggests, they say it is imperative that the head tube be reamed prior to pressing in the cups. Is reaming standard practice when installing headsets? This is an external set (ie, not incorporated type) with sealed bearings. The frame is 6061-T6 aluminum with 1&1/8 inch threadless steer tube. Thanks. With regard to prepping in general, the last thing you want to do is fail to prep the bottom bracket and other treads to remove paint, metal or other residue that has fouled the treads during fabrication. If the threading is tight because it is obstructed, it can loosen more easily if the obstruction erodes and the threads may then become damaged. Proper prepping doesn't cause damage, it prevents it. Reality, what a concept. and over-zealously "prepped" bb threads cause squeaking and premature wear because they allow excessive radial movement. *in that regard, paint is a non-issue. *indeed, it may even be a benefit. Not in a shell which has no history of problems. Paint being relatively soft will creep from the threads and leave the cup loose after a period of time. The threads must be clean and lubed with a light oil and nothing else. |
#28
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Installing threadless headset: ream head tube?
In article
, Paul Conners wrote: Took headset, frame to LBS. He handed me the press and said "just do it". So, I did. It went in easily. Once I got home I double-checked for roundness; it's perfect. Lotsa fuss for nothin'. Thanks to all who listened and had something to contribute. The fuss is worth it. You were not sure and now you are. -- Michael Press |
#29
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Installing threadless headset: ream head tube?
someone wrote:
On 22 Sep, 03:35, notme wrote: Shouldn't this be followed with: NYA NYA NYA NYAAAA NYAAAAAAA NYA!! told ya, ya di nay nee t'cut t tube. (And what is that? A new abbreviated texting language?) Borders |
#30
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Installing threadless headset: ream head tube?
someone wrote:
On 22 Sep, 03:35, notme wrote: Shouldn't this be followed with: NYA NYA NYA NYAAAA NYAAAAAAA NYA!! told ya, ya di nay nee t'cut t tube. (And what is that? A new abbreviated texting language?) Borders I hate cross posting, you can see why. I was going to thank you guys for bringing biking business back into a deteriorating Alt.MB, until I read this. Anyroad thanks for not feeding the troll. DD UK |
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