Spoke busted in the middle?

I built at set of Bdop wheels 28 2x rear. They have 5000 miles no harsh conditions and have been perfect from day one. Never have had to true or touch the wheels spin great. This am after typical 44 mile ride in the last 1/2 mile forum home I hear a pop and spoke on DS breaks in the middle. They are sapim 2 - 1.8 DB spokes so now I am wondering. I don't think I hit any thing was going over some uneven pavement but not rough and pop.

I take any thoughts on this. Tension when built was about 123 and even dead true. I

My sig did not show

Deacon mark

On 2015-08-24 10:24 AM, wrote:
I built at set of Bdop wheels 28 2x rear. They have 5000 miles no
harsh conditions and have been perfect from day one. Never have had
to true or touch the wheels spin great. This am after typical 44 mile
ride in the last 1/2 mile forum home I hear a pop and spoke on DS
breaks in the middle. They are sapim 2 - 1.8 DB spokes so now I am
wondering. I don't think I hit any thing was going over some uneven
pavement but not rough and pop.

I take any thoughts on this. Tension when built was about 123 and
even dead true. I


I've had that happen on a road bike but wasn't as lucky as you. On a
70-80mi trip from Germany to just across the Dutch border at Aachen I
heard the first *PLINK* about 15-20 miles before reaching my apartment.
A couple miles later ... *KA-KLOINK* ... *POCK* ... oh-oh ...

Some tore far away from either end. Maybe from too much mashing. I had
about 50lbs of stuff on the bike and had used it offroad bit much in the
past so I couldn't blame the spokes. I made it to within the Aachen city
limits after disconnecting the rear brake and almost teetering on the
handlebar. Walked it the last five miles and then needed a new rear
wheel, probably because the heavy duffelbag was still on the rack and I
could not hang that off the handlebar or top tube.

I discovered a very valuable tool in the bike tool kit: Electrical tape.
Very useful to temporarily tape down flailing stuff that broke but can't
easily be removed on the road.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Monday, August 24, 2015 at 10:24:11 AM UTC-7, wrote:
I built at set of Bdop wheels 28 2x rear. They have 5000 miles no harsh conditions and have been perfect from day one. Never have had to true or touch the wheels spin great. This am after typical 44 mile ride in the last 1/2 mile forum home I hear a pop and spoke on DS breaks in the middle. They are sapim 2 - 1.8 DB spokes so now I am wondering. I don't think I hit any thing was going over some uneven pavement but not rough and pop.

I take any thoughts on this. Tension when built was about 123 and even dead true. I

http://www.sapim.be/nl/where-and-whe...spoke-break-nl

-- Jay Beattie.

On Monday, August 24, 2015 at 3:32:43 PM UTC-4, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, August 24, 2015 at 10:24:11 AM UTC-7, wrote:
I built at set of Bdop wheels 28 2x rear. They have 5000 miles no harsh conditions and have been perfect from day one. Never have had to true or touch the wheels spin great. This am after typical 44 mile ride in the last 1/2 mile forum home I hear a pop and spoke on DS breaks in the middle. They are sapim 2 - 1.8 DB spokes so now I am wondering. I don't think I hit any thing was going over some uneven pavement but not rough and pop.

I take any thoughts on this. Tension when built was about 123 and even dead true. I

http://www.sapim.be/nl/where-and-whe...spoke-break-nl

-- Jay Beattie.

I love it!

Sapim says: "If you only replace 1 or 2 spokes, you can expect these or the spokes next to them to break again. It is best to re-spoke the entire wheel and to replace the hub just in case the hub holes are damaged. It is possible to re-use the hub by mounting the spokes in the opposite direction (i.e. not in the direction of the ovalisation of the hub holes)."


Breaking in the middle? Sapim says: "When the thinner middle section breaks (on single or double butted spokes)

* Any object striking a moving wheel causes damage (sometimes only visible with a magnifying glass or microscope).

* Top quality manufacture will safeguard against damage. Lower standard processes will produce an inferior quality. SAPIM draws wire in such way that no change in molecular material structure occurs. The spoke does not twist much when it is built into a wheel.

* Aerodynamic, elliptical spokes, such as the SAPIM CX-Ray spoke, are best fitted with a special CX-Ray key.

This will prevent the spokes from twisting during lacing and centring."

Cheers

I actually read that from Sapim before the thread I posted. I sent an email to Sapim to see what they thought. I am almost positive I never hit anything this in the road nothing flying up I heard the pop and at first I was wondering what is that. Then the wheel was out and hit brake but I was able to get home just short .5 mile. It does have a bit scared now because I was going down a couple of hills at 37mph. If that would happen then? I suppose I will hear from sapim.

Deacon Mark Cleary.

On 8/24/2015 2:57 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, August 24, 2015 at 3:32:43 PM UTC-4, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, August 24, 2015 at 10:24:11 AM UTC-7, wrote:
I built at set of Bdop wheels 28 2x rear. They have 5000 miles no harsh conditions and have been perfect from day one. Never have had to true or touch the wheels spin great. This am after typical 44 mile ride in the last 1/2 mile forum home I hear a pop and spoke on DS breaks in the middle. They are sapim 2 - 1.8 DB spokes so now I am wondering. I don't think I hit any thing was going over some uneven pavement but not rough and pop.

I take any thoughts on this. Tension when built was about 123 and even dead true. I

http://www.sapim.be/nl/where-and-whe...spoke-break-nl

-- Jay Beattie.

I love it!

Sapim says: "If you only replace 1 or 2 spokes, you can expect these or the spokes next to them to break again. It is best to re-spoke the entire wheel and to replace the hub just in case the hub holes are damaged. It is possible to re-use the hub by mounting the spokes in the opposite direction (i.e. not in the direction of the ovalisation of the hub holes)."


Breaking in the middle? Sapim says: "When the thinner middle section breaks (on single or double butted spokes)

* Any object striking a moving wheel causes damage (sometimes only visible with a magnifying glass or microscope).

* Top quality manufacture will safeguard against damage. Lower standard processes will produce an inferior quality. SAPIM draws wire in such way that no change in molecular material structure occurs. The spoke does not twist much when it is built into a wheel.

* Aerodynamic, elliptical spokes, such as the SAPIM CX-Ray spoke, are best fitted with a special CX-Ray key.

This will prevent the spokes from twisting during lacing and centring."

Cheers


Q = "My groups are high and right"
A = "Move your target, it's too low and too far left"

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Andrew I am lost? I know there is something behind it.

Joerg writes:

On 2015-08-24 10:24 AM, wrote:
I built at set of Bdop wheels 28 2x rear. They have 5000 miles no
harsh conditions and have been perfect from day one. Never have had
to true or touch the wheels spin great. This am after typical 44 mile
ride in the last 1/2 mile forum home I hear a pop and spoke on DS
breaks in the middle. They are sapim 2 - 1.8 DB spokes so now I am
wondering. I don't think I hit any thing was going over some uneven
pavement but not rough and pop.

I take any thoughts on this. Tension when built was about 123 and
even dead true. I


I've had that happen on a road bike but wasn't as lucky as you. On a
70-80mi trip from Germany to just across the Dutch border at Aachen I
heard the first *PLINK* about 15-20 miles before reaching my
apartment. A couple miles later ... *KA-KLOINK* ... *POCK* ... oh-oh
...

Some tore far away from either end. Maybe from too much mashing. I had
about 50lbs of stuff on the bike and had used it offroad bit much in
the past so I couldn't blame the spokes. I made it to within the
Aachen city limits after disconnecting the rear brake and almost
teetering on the handlebar. Walked it the last five miles and then
needed a new rear wheel, probably because the heavy duffelbag was
still on the rack and I could not hang that off the handlebar or top
tube.

I discovered a very valuable tool in the bike tool kit: Electrical
tape. Very useful to temporarily tape down flailing stuff that broke
but can't easily be removed on the road.

The nice thing about electrical tape is that, if you keep your eyes open
and are not too proud to stop once in a while, you can almost certainly
find more on the road than you manage to use. People must just heave
rolls of the stuff out of their truck windows whenever they find one
less than an inch across.

--

On 8/24/2015 3:20 PM, wrote:
Andrew I am lost? I know there is something behind it.


At 5000+ miles the possible causes and cures of a spoke
failure are many. I just don't know so I did not address
your actual question. My comments were directed to the Sapim
comedy routine.

For the group of experienced riders he Have you ever
replaced all the spokes _and your hub_ after a spoke failure?

We swap out new spokes+rim commonly, after rim impact damage
or brake wear. Hub problems are rarely, I would even say
almost never, found at the root of spoke failure. We have
customers with original Phil hubs on their 8, 9, 10th rim...


Mark, if you think it's not from something which smacked a
spoke or two directly (that is, an isolated incident),
evaluate tension, looking for areas or single spokes which
are significantly higher or lower tension than the rest of
the wheel. That would indicate rim deformation to some
extent. Feel the rim as you spin it, are there dings and
dents? Are they more severe in some spots? Any rim cracks?
If your tension is relatively even and there are no obvious
signs of rim damage, then just replace your broken spokes
and go ride.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971