Weights of my bikes

On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

Usually, it's the larger start capacitor that dies first. However, if
you've replaced the start capacitor and the motor seems to be spinning
slower than normal, the run capacitor also needs replacement. Most
modern appliances with motors have a rotational speed sensor
(tachometer), instead of the centrifugal cutoff switch, which will
turn off the dryer if it detects a slowly turning motor (usually
caused by stuffing too much clothes into the washer or dryer).

New heater arrived an hour ago.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UA5zdKVFGF2ttDQ58

Looks like the upper heating element melted. That would likely be
caused by lack of air cooling because the motor was running slow or
had stopped. There should have been an over-temperature thermal
switch to shut down the dryer if it became too hot. I suggest you
watch the exhaust temperature to prevent a repeat performance. There
might be something useful in the softwa
https://www.mieleusa.com/e/miele-mobile-app-zpv000000000000000020007384500-f#

Miele TWI 180 WP Eco & Steam WiFiConn@ct
https://www.mieleusa.com/e/t1-heat-pump-tumble-dryer-twi-180-wp-eco-and-steam-wificonn-ct-lotus-white-10666300-p
Nice.

Good luck.





My compliments on having and maintaining a very nice and clean shop. I
wish I could do the same. At this time, my former home workshop and
lab are both full of junk. I'm relegated to doing repairs outdoors,
on my deck. When that fills with junk, my next move will be to do
repairs on my flat roof.

I'm not a collector. That helps.

Lou
--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.


I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid.. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.


Lou

On 5/18/2021 11:16 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:

Jay, we've just gone through this entire charade of titanium being as fatigue prone as anything else.

Bull****. Nobody said that. It sprung from your imagination.

We don't get actual fatigue failures unless a material is stressed to 90% or so of its maximum strength repeatedly.

Also bull****. Quit spouting ignorant nonsense.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:53 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 5/18/2021 11:16 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:

Jay, we've just gone through this entire charade of titanium being as fatigue prone as anything else.
Bull****. Nobody said that. It sprung from your imagination.
We don't get actual fatigue failures unless a material is stressed to 90% or so of its maximum strength repeatedly.
Also bull****. Quit spouting ignorant nonsense.

Apropos for Tom: https://www.roadbikereview.com/threa...-crack.351086/ Airborne Zeppelin failure after 15 years.

-- Jay Beattie.

Lou Holtman wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and
the heater. New heater arrived an hour ago.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UA5zdKVFGF2ttDQ58


The heater in my dryer died a while ago. The element opened up near the
middle and then arced to the grounded chassis before eventually
self-extinguishing. The heater assembly was substantially burnt up, but due
to the lack of a GFCI on the dryer circuit, nothing tripped. Rather
disconcerting to see a failure mode with no protection for it.



My compliments on having and maintaining a very nice and clean shop. I
wish I could do the same. At this time, my former home workshop and
lab are both full of junk. I'm relegated to doing repairs outdoors,
on my deck. When that fills with junk, my next move will be to do
repairs on my flat roof.

I'm not a collector. That helps.

Lou

On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:53 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 5/18/2021 11:16 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:

Jay, we've just gone through this entire charade of titanium being as fatigue prone as anything else.
Bull****. Nobody said that. It sprung from your imagination.
We don't get actual fatigue failures unless a material is stressed to 90% or so of its maximum strength repeatedly.
Also bull****. Quit spouting ignorant nonsense.
Frank, you continue to make it clear why you were a teacher and not a real engineer. http://www.metalspiping.com/the-fati...um-alloys.html

"The fatigue behaviours are often illustrated by a Stress – Number of Cycles (S-N) curve, which are often described by two parameters: fatigue life tells us how long a titanium component survives at a particular stress, while fatigue strength is the maximum stress a titanium component endures without occurance of fatigue cracks after a large numbers of cycles,"

A real engineer is aware that there are stress levels below where fatigue failures do not occur.

On Tue, 18 May 2021 08:16:38 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

Titanium in most cases doesn't get anywhere near the required
stress limits to fatigue since it is so damned strong to begin
with. This is why I said that if the Ti frameset doesn't fail
in the first month or so it will last virtually forever.

"The Fatigue of Titanium and Titanium Alloys"
http://www.metalspiping.com/the-fatigue-of-titanium-and-titanium-alloys.html
"Fatigue life tells us how long a titanium component survives at a
particular stress, while fatigue strength is the maximum stress a
titanium component endures without occurrence of fatigue cracks after
a large numbers of cycles, such as 10^8."

You'll find that if you stress titanium enough times (such as 10^8
times), it will crack. If you attach a few strain gauges to the
various tubes of a titanium frame, and use a data logger to count the
number of stress cycles, you might find that 10^8 cycles (100,000,000
cycles) arrives fairly soon, especially when every bump in the road is
considered a stress cycle.

Hmmm... I could probably guestimate the Ti frame life. A 700c wheel
is very close to 2 meters circumference. In 1 km, that's 500 wheel
revolutions. Pulling a number out of my hat, I would guess(tm) about
1 stress cycle per revolution, or 500 bumps per km. 10^8 bumps would
require riding:
1*10^8 bumps / 500 bumps/km = 200,000 km
At 100 km/week, that would take:
200,000km / 100km/week = 2,000 weeks
2,000 weeks / 52 weeks/year = 38 years
of riding before your titanium frame falls apart. I expected less,
but 38 years seems acceptable. If you want a better number, attach on
the strain gauges and provide a number for how many bumps per km your
experience while riding.



--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:49:03 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:53 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 5/18/2021 11:16 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:

Jay, we've just gone through this entire charade of titanium being as fatigue prone as anything else.
Bull****. Nobody said that. It sprung from your imagination.
We don't get actual fatigue failures unless a material is stressed to 90% or so of its maximum strength repeatedly.
Also bull****. Quit spouting ignorant nonsense.
Apropos for Tom: https://www.roadbikereview.com/threa...-crack.351086/ Airborne Zeppelin failure after 15 years.

How big and heavy was the rider and what sort of riding did he do? I can show you broken steel frames with the same sort of fatigue failure as that. So would you say that steel bikes are "fatigue prone"? Super light custom steel frames like Waterford offers will break in one year sometimes.

Down the column is this: "On any frame as far as I am concerned. Even my Scandium Fuji Team issue 15 years ago lasted 7-8 seasons. And Fuji suggested to stop using it after 3 years and warranty was accordingly offered." Colnago will only offer a 3 year warranty on carbon fiber and I think that they really want to only offer 2 years and that is what they do in Italy last I heard.

Remember that my concussion was caused by the fact that the leg wasn't even glued onto the aluminum cup and it took probably 5 years before it tore off of the rivet holding it in place.

This bike I have would be pretty damn difficult to stress anywhere near the point at which fatigue failures could begin. As for the Airborne, we'll have to see what year it was manufactured when I get it around Friday. There were companies called Airborne starting around 1901. Enfield made paratrooper bikes made to jump with the paratrooper in 1939 with the brand name of Airborne. When the Airborne ti bikes were made they were a great deal better quality control than after Huffy acquired them.

This Douglas Ti I am positive isn't about to get fatigue failures. It is just built too heavy.

On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway.. I'm open for better suggestions.

The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical system. From the number of wires I would expect your home service is three phase AC. The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges. In that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing of the fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen with a high voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob with the electrical phases.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.

On Tue, 18 May 2021 11:15:28 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket.

My mistake. You're correct. The capacitor is an EMI/RFI suppression
capacitor to reduce conducted electric motor noise in the AC wiring. I
couldn't tell from the original photo what the remains of the
capacitor were used for. I also failed to notice the real motor start
capacitor in the lower right of your original photo:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Let's say that I was distracted by the clean workbench and high end
bicycles.

My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.

I wish I had a better theory. The problem is finding an explanation
for both the shorted capacitor and the melted heater element. The
heater is after the capacitor in the circuit. Therefore a shorted
capacitor would not cause the heater to melt. Most likely, a shorted
capacitor would blow a fuse or thermal breaker, leaving the heater
untouched. Similarly, either an open or shorted heater element would
not cause the capacitor to fail. The only explanation I can contrive
is that the heater and the capacitor failed because of unrelated and
unconnected faults.

My guess(tm) is the heater element failed because whatever electronics
control its temperature did something wrong. I have no idea what that
might be without a schematic.

My guess(tm) is the EMI/RFI capacitor failed because of a power line
high voltage spike or dielectric breakdown due to overheating. If the
capacitor is fairly close to the failed heating elements, that might
be a connection. What worries me is that replacing both the capacitor
and heater element might not be the cause of their failure, and that
the original cause for having both the capacitor and heater element
fail, is still lurking in the dryer. If you have a multimeter, and
with the dryer unplugged, you might want to check for a short across
the 240VAC line. (That's easier than tripping the circuit breaker).

I was unable to find a service manual, wiring diagram, or schematic
online for the TWI-180 model. In the USA, there is usually a printed
wiring diagram provided somewhere inside the dryer. Usually, it's in
a plastic envelope taped to the inside of a rear or side panel. If
you find the wiring diagram inside the dryer, please scan it and post
it.

Miele TWI 180 WP Eco & Steam WiFiConn@ct
https://www.mieleusa.com/e/t1-heat-pump-tumble-dryer-twi-180-wp-eco-and-steam-wificonn-ct-lotus-white-10666300-p

Operating instructions:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1360239/Miele-Twi-180-Wp.html

Good luck and please monitor the temperature when you first turn it
on.

--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558