Weights of my bikes

On 5/18/2021 10:09 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:20:46 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor

There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the
grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes)
are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse
blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged
in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the
side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not
looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow
but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.
The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical system.
From the number of wires I would expect your home service is three phase
AC. The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one
phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges. In
that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing of the
fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen with a high
voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob with the electrical phases.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.

A dryer is single phase 220.

-- Jay Beattie.


In North America, definitely.


Is 3-phase service common in Canadian residences? It is not
here.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 5/19/2021 12:48 AM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 18 May 2021 16:38:33 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 18 May 2021 08:16:38 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

Titanium in most cases doesn't get anywhere near the required
stress limits to fatigue since it is so damned strong to begin
with. This is why I said that if the Ti frameset doesn't fail
in the first month or so it will last virtually forever.

"The Fatigue of Titanium and Titanium Alloys"
http://www.metalspiping.com/the-fatigue-of-titanium-and-titanium-alloys.html
"Fatigue life tells us how long a titanium component survives at a
particular stress, while fatigue strength is the maximum stress a
titanium component endures without occurrence of fatigue cracks after
a large numbers of cycles, such as 10^8."

You'll find that if you stress titanium enough times (such as 10^8
times), it will crack. If you attach a few strain gauges to the
various tubes of a titanium frame, and use a data logger to count the
number of stress cycles, you might find that 10^8 cycles (100,000,000
cycles) arrives fairly soon, especially when every bump in the road is
considered a stress cycle.

Hmmm... I could probably guestimate the Ti frame life. A 700c wheel
is very close to 2 meters circumference. In 1 km, that's 500 wheel
revolutions. Pulling a number out of my hat, I would guess(tm) about
1 stress cycle per revolution, or 500 bumps per km. 10^8 bumps would
require riding:
1*10^8 bumps / 500 bumps/km = 200,000 km
At 100 km/week, that would take:
200,000km / 100km/week = 2,000 weeks
2,000 weeks / 52 weeks/year = 38 years
of riding before your titanium frame falls apart. I expected less,
but 38 years seems acceptable. If you want a better number, attach on
the strain gauges and provide a number for how many bumps per km your
experience while riding.

http://www.metalspiping.com/the-fati...um-alloys.html
The point that you are missing in your calculation is the severity of
the stress imposed. At a stress of 900 MPa (130,533.96 psi) the
titanium sample broke after a bit less then 10^4 cycles and at a
stress of 600 MPa (87,022 psi) it required ~10^7 cycles.

Another point is that the strength and fatigue failure of titanium
varies greatly depending on the alloy. the numbers above are obviously
for an alloy of titanium but pure titanium fails as low as 275 MPa
(39,885 psi) for 10^7 cycles in the annealed condition and as cold
rolled at 300 MPa (43,511 psi) for 10^7 cycles.

So, if a titanium alloy you may be able to hit 10,000,000 bumps at a
force of 87,022 psi before the bicycle breaks :-)


This discussion of theoretical limits of an ideal tube with
ideal jointing is one thing. The real world is another.

Failures (in Ti, in steel, in aluminum) are more commonly
associated with internal stress from joining under
tension[1] (misalignment), poor jointing (cold welds,
contaminated welds, poor braze flow, insufficient weld
depth, etc), seam failure in seamed or seamed/redrawn
material and of course catastrophic (crash) impact.

[1] typical 'forced into position' failures:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/ZITO2.JPG
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/bia201d.jpg

speaking of Marx, the Soviet New Man isn't any better a
framebuilder on his 'off' days:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/rus17g.jpg

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 5/19/2021 2:18 AM, James wrote:
On 18/5/21 11:38 pm, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I
wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted
space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim,
industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28

Lou, waiting for parts.


Our dryer looks remarkably less complicated.

https://www.hillshome.com.au/our-pro...t-clothesline/



+1


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

AMuzi wrote:
On 5/18/2021 10:09 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:20:46 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor

There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the
grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes)
are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse
blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged
in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the
side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not
looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow
but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.
The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical system.
From the number of wires I would expect your home service is three phase
AC. The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one
phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges. In
that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing of the
fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen with a high
voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob with the electrical phases.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.

A dryer is single phase 220.

-- Jay Beattie.


In North America, definitely.


Is 3-phase service common in Canadian residences? It is not
here.


3- phase residential service is very UNcommon in Canada. The electrical
system is pretty homogeneous across North America (the continent that is,
not the northern part of the US, in case that was the source of the
confusion).

On 5/19/2021 3:18 AM, James wrote:
On 18/5/21 11:38 pm, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28

Lou, waiting for parts.


Our dryer looks remarkably less complicated.

https://www.hillshome.com.au/our-pro...t-clothesline/

Ah yes, a solar powered clothes dryer!

We recently lost the tree that held the hook for our two retractable
clothes lines. I suppose I'll have to sink a post of some sort in the
middle of the yard.

We have a large Amish area in the northern part of my riding area. It's
very picturesque, including the look of clothes drying on a line.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:43:53 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:20:46 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.
The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical system. From the number of wires I would expect your home service is three phase AC. The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges. In that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing of the fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen with a high voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob with the electrical phases.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.
A dryer is single phase 220.

Lou lives in Holland. And three phase distribution is not unusual and a dryer would work better on three phase 230 VAC. I know nothing about this other than he showed a filter with four wires on it which infers that it is a three phase device.

On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 6:47:11 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 5/18/2021 7:32 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:53 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 5/18/2021 11:16 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:

Jay, we've just gone through this entire charade of titanium being as fatigue prone as anything else.
Bull****. Nobody said that. It sprung from your imagination.
We don't get actual fatigue failures unless a material is stressed to 90% or so of its maximum strength repeatedly.
Also bull****. Quit spouting ignorant nonsense.
Frank, you continue to make it clear why you were a teacher and not a real engineer. http://www.metalspiping.com/the-fati...um-alloys.html

"The fatigue behaviours are often illustrated by a Stress – Number of Cycles (S-N) curve, which are often described by two parameters: fatigue life tells us how long a titanium component survives at a particular stress, while fatigue strength is the maximum stress a titanium component endures without occurance of fatigue cracks after a large numbers of cycles,"

A real engineer is aware that there are stress levels below where fatigue failures do not occur.
I have been aware of that for over 50 years. That does not refute what I
said above, nor does it confirm what you said above. For one thing, a
typical value of the fatigue limit (or endurance limit) is roughly 50%
of the ultimate strength of a metal. It's nowhere near 90%.

Want a reference? Try Table 1 of this paper:
https://www.osti.gov/pages/servlets/purl/1564171

So your response is yet another Kunich deflection, even though you gave
a largely irrelevant web citation.

Frank, your comments are as usual completely irrelevant so I would suggest you stop trying to put the shoe on the other food. UNLESS you can identify the exactly loadings and the number of cycles at which these loadings may occur what exactly does it matter if failing comes at 60% or 90% if you cannot even identify the loadings? In that paper they show inclusions and identify those as the source of most of these failings. So how exactly do you propose identifying any of these in a bicycle frame?

If you have not identified the loadings on your own steel bike why would you have no trouble identifying them on another that you have no knowledge of or the loadings on it?

On Wed, 19 May 2021 09:26:19 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

Lou lives in Holland. And three phase distribution is not unusual and a dryer would work better on three phase 230 VAC. I know nothing about this other than he showed a filter with four wires on it which infers that it is a three phase device.

Here's the photo:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
The green/yellow wire is protective ground (not to be confused with
neutral). Single phase power is delivered through the brown (hot) and
blue (neutral) wires. Violet is optional.
https://www.ledlightexpert.com/Brown-Wire-Blue-Wire-and-Green-Stripe-Wire-what-are-these-Which-is-black-and-hot-and-which-is-white_b_13.html

Please note that some countries will deliver 3 phase power directly to
the consumer:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/India-power.jpg

--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 10:36:41 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Op woensdag 19 mei 2021 om 02:26:38 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 11:15:28 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket.
My mistake. You're correct. The capacitor is an EMI/RFI suppression
capacitor to reduce conducted electric motor noise in the AC wiring. I
couldn't tell from the original photo what the remains of the
capacitor were used for. I also failed to notice the real motor start
capacitor in the lower right of your original photo:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Let's say that I was distracted by the clean workbench and high end
bicycles.
My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.
I wish I had a better theory. The problem is finding an explanation
for both the shorted capacitor and the melted heater element. The
heater is after the capacitor in the circuit. Therefore a shorted
capacitor would not cause the heater to melt. Most likely, a shorted
capacitor would blow a fuse or thermal breaker, leaving the heater
untouched. Similarly, either an open or shorted heater element would
not cause the capacitor to fail. The only explanation I can contrive
is that the heater and the capacitor failed because of unrelated and
unconnected faults.

My guess(tm) is the heater element failed because whatever electronics
control its temperature did something wrong. I have no idea what that
might be without a schematic.

My guess(tm) is the EMI/RFI capacitor failed because of a power line
high voltage spike or dielectric breakdown due to overheating. If the
capacitor is fairly close to the failed heating elements, that might
be a connection. What worries me is that replacing both the capacitor
and heater element might not be the cause of their failure, and that
the original cause for having both the capacitor and heater element
fail, is still lurking in the dryer. If you have a multimeter, and
with the dryer unplugged, you might want to check for a short across
the 240VAC line. (That's easier than tripping the circuit breaker).

I was unable to find a service manual, wiring diagram, or schematic
online for the TWI-180 model. In the USA, there is usually a printed
wiring diagram provided somewhere inside the dryer. Usually, it's in
a plastic envelope taped to the inside of a rear or side panel. If
you find the wiring diagram inside the dryer, please scan it and post
it.
Miele TWI 180 WP Eco & Steam WiFiConn@ct
https://www.mieleusa.com/e/t1-heat-pump-tumble-dryer-twi-180-wp-eco-and-steam-wificonn-ct-lotus-white-10666300-p
Operating instructions:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1360239/Miele-Twi-180-Wp.html

Good luck and please monitor the temperature when you first turn it
on.
--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff to clear things up my dryer is a Siemens WTXL722NL05 not a Miele (that is my washer) and a circuit breaker in my electrical system blew not a fuse in the the dryer. I just reset that one after unplugging the dryer. As for the heater they are known for failing after some times. This dryer is about 10 year old. Sorry for the misunderstanding because of my bad English.

Lou, you were pretty clear, this is simply another example of people that know nothing trying to contradict me. I made some estimates based on the pictures you showed. I think that they were pretty accurate and it would be easy for you to test using an ohm meter between the hard ground of the plug and the wires that appear to be inputs to the capacitors. I would be pretty surprised if a capacitor failed since they are pretty well specified. That is unless your power system commonly has large surges which can occur it they are cutting in and out of the "windmill" power frequently.

On Wednesday, May 19, 2021 at 9:26:21 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:43:53 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:20:46 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.
The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical system. From the number of wires I would expect your home service is three phase AC. The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges. In that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing of the fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen with a high voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob with the electrical phases.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.
A dryer is single phase 220.
Lou lives in Holland. And three phase distribution is not unusual and a dryer would work better on three phase 230 VAC. I know nothing about this other than he showed a filter with four wires on it which infers that it is a three phase device.

Good point -- I was thinking US. Four wires in US, however, is single phase and a typical dryer plug. Two hots, neutral and ground. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1500_.jpg The number of wires alone doesn't really say much about whether the power is single or three phase.

I don't know if a dryer would work any better with phasing since its just a toaster with a motor, and not a big motor that would benefit from phasing -- but I'm just guessing. I wonder if Lou's clothes dry faster than mine.


-- Jay Beattie.