Weights of my bikes

On Wednesday, May 19, 2021 at 12:18:11 AM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 18/5/21 11:38 pm, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28

Lou, waiting for parts.

Our dryer looks remarkably less complicated.

https://www.hillshome.com.au/our-pro...t-clothesline/

In the San Francisco bay area there is a remarkable amount of dirt in the air and this method which used to be widely used now results in odd smelling clothing.

On Wednesday, May 19, 2021 at 7:01:08 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/19/2021 12:48 AM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 18 May 2021 16:38:33 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 18 May 2021 08:16:38 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

Titanium in most cases doesn't get anywhere near the required
stress limits to fatigue since it is so damned strong to begin
with. This is why I said that if the Ti frameset doesn't fail
in the first month or so it will last virtually forever.

"The Fatigue of Titanium and Titanium Alloys"
http://www.metalspiping.com/the-fatigue-of-titanium-and-titanium-alloys.html
"Fatigue life tells us how long a titanium component survives at a
particular stress, while fatigue strength is the maximum stress a
titanium component endures without occurrence of fatigue cracks after
a large numbers of cycles, such as 10^8."

You'll find that if you stress titanium enough times (such as 10^8
times), it will crack. If you attach a few strain gauges to the
various tubes of a titanium frame, and use a data logger to count the
number of stress cycles, you might find that 10^8 cycles (100,000,000
cycles) arrives fairly soon, especially when every bump in the road is
considered a stress cycle.

Hmmm... I could probably guestimate the Ti frame life. A 700c wheel
is very close to 2 meters circumference. In 1 km, that's 500 wheel
revolutions. Pulling a number out of my hat, I would guess(tm) about
1 stress cycle per revolution, or 500 bumps per km. 10^8 bumps would
require riding:
1*10^8 bumps / 500 bumps/km = 200,000 km
At 100 km/week, that would take:
200,000km / 100km/week = 2,000 weeks
2,000 weeks / 52 weeks/year = 38 years
of riding before your titanium frame falls apart. I expected less,
but 38 years seems acceptable. If you want a better number, attach on
the strain gauges and provide a number for how many bumps per km your
experience while riding.

http://www.metalspiping.com/the-fati...um-alloys.html
The point that you are missing in your calculation is the severity of
the stress imposed. At a stress of 900 MPa (130,533.96 psi) the
titanium sample broke after a bit less then 10^4 cycles and at a
stress of 600 MPa (87,022 psi) it required ~10^7 cycles.

Another point is that the strength and fatigue failure of titanium
varies greatly depending on the alloy. the numbers above are obviously
for an alloy of titanium but pure titanium fails as low as 275 MPa
(39,885 psi) for 10^7 cycles in the annealed condition and as cold
rolled at 300 MPa (43,511 psi) for 10^7 cycles.

So, if a titanium alloy you may be able to hit 10,000,000 bumps at a
force of 87,022 psi before the bicycle breaks :-)

This discussion of theoretical limits of an ideal tube with
ideal jointing is one thing. The real world is another.

Failures (in Ti, in steel, in aluminum) are more commonly
associated with internal stress from joining under
tension[1] (misalignment), poor jointing (cold welds,
contaminated welds, poor braze flow, insufficient weld
depth, etc), seam failure in seamed or seamed/redrawn
material and of course catastrophic (crash) impact.

[1] typical 'forced into position' failures:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/ZITO2.JPG
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/bia201d.jpg

speaking of Marx, the Soviet New Man isn't any better a
framebuilder on his 'off' days:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/rus17g.jpg

Goof Lord, you're not indicating that steel might fail? According to Jay and Frank that only happens to titanium and not steel or carbon fiber. Though each may disagree with the other there.

Op woensdag 19 mei 2021 om 18:26:21 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:43:53 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:20:46 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.
The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical system. From the number of wires I would expect your home service is three phase AC. The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges. In that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing of the fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen with a high voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob with the electrical phases.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.
A dryer is single phase 220.
Lou lives in Holland. And three phase distribution is not unusual and a dryer would work better on three phase 230 VAC. I know nothing about this other than he showed a filter with four wires on it which infers that it is a three phase device.


It is not a 3 phase device, it is a single phase. 3 phase is unusual for a normal family house. Only if people have heavy equipment they choose for a 3 phase connection. It is more expensive. The brown wire you see is the hot/phase wire, the blue the neutral and the yellow/green wire the ground.The capacitor is between the brown and blue wire. The purple wires is the connection to the 'guts' of the dryer but basically an extension of the brown and blue wires.

Lou

On Wednesday, May 19, 2021 at 7:17:52 AM UTC-7, Ralph Barone wrote:
AMuzi wrote:
On 5/18/2021 10:09 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:20:46 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor

There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the
grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes)
are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse
blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged
in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the
side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not
looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow
but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.
The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical system.
From the number of wires I would expect your home service is three phase
AC. The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one
phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges. In
that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing of the
fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen with a high
voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob with the electrical phases.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.

A dryer is single phase 220.

-- Jay Beattie.


In North America, definitely.


Is 3-phase service common in Canadian residences? It is not
here.

3- phase residential service is very UNcommon in Canada. The electrical
system is pretty homogeneous across North America (the continent that is,
not the northern part of the US, in case that was the source of the
confusion).
With the advent of electric cars home 3 phase 230 is no longer that unusual. This was the NORM at business locations forever though.

On Wednesday, May 19, 2021 at 9:48:48 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, May 19, 2021 at 9:26:21 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:43:53 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:20:46 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.
The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical system. From the number of wires I would expect your home service is three phase AC. The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges. In that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing of the fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen with a high voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob with the electrical phases.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.
A dryer is single phase 220.
Lou lives in Holland. And three phase distribution is not unusual and a dryer would work better on three phase 230 VAC. I know nothing about this other than he showed a filter with four wires on it which infers that it is a three phase device.
Good point -- I was thinking US. Four wires in US, however, is single phase and a typical dryer plug. Two hots, neutral and ground. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1500_.jpg The number of wires alone doesn't really say much about whether the power is single or three phase.

I don't know if a dryer would work any better with phasing since its just a toaster with a motor, and not a big motor that would benefit from phasing -- but I'm just guessing. I wonder if Lou's clothes dry faster than mine.

Three phase motors are self starting and maintain a constant speed without regulation. I would make sense to me to avoid 2 phase motors with phase shifters to control motor speed.

On Wednesday, May 19, 2021 at 9:54:29 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op woensdag 19 mei 2021 om 18:26:21 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:43:53 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:20:46 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.
The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical system. From the number of wires I would expect your home service is three phase AC. The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges. In that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing of the fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen with a high voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob with the electrical phases.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.
A dryer is single phase 220.
Lou lives in Holland. And three phase distribution is not unusual and a dryer would work better on three phase 230 VAC. I know nothing about this other than he showed a filter with four wires on it which infers that it is a three phase device.
It is not a 3 phase device, it is a single phase. 3 phase is unusual for a normal family house. Only if people have heavy equipment they choose for a 3 phase connection. It is more expensive. The brown wire you see is the hot/phase wire, the blue the neutral and the yellow/green wire the ground. The capacitor is between the brown and blue wire. The purple wires is the connection to the 'guts' of the dryer but basically an extension of the brown and blue wires.

Thanks for that information. Color coding other than standard US is somewhat confusing. If you have an ohm meter than measure the resistance between the Brown and the Blue. As I said before, I doubt that this is your problem since filters are generally rated much higher than any conceivable loads. Especially in a country with "green energy" which inevitably has a lot of surges in the system.

On Wednesday, May 19, 2021 at 9:53:36 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Wednesday, May 19, 2021 at 7:01:08 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/19/2021 12:48 AM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 18 May 2021 16:38:33 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 18 May 2021 08:16:38 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

Titanium in most cases doesn't get anywhere near the required
stress limits to fatigue since it is so damned strong to begin
with. This is why I said that if the Ti frameset doesn't fail
in the first month or so it will last virtually forever.

"The Fatigue of Titanium and Titanium Alloys"
http://www.metalspiping.com/the-fatigue-of-titanium-and-titanium-alloys.html
"Fatigue life tells us how long a titanium component survives at a
particular stress, while fatigue strength is the maximum stress a
titanium component endures without occurrence of fatigue cracks after
a large numbers of cycles, such as 10^8."

You'll find that if you stress titanium enough times (such as 10^8
times), it will crack. If you attach a few strain gauges to the
various tubes of a titanium frame, and use a data logger to count the
number of stress cycles, you might find that 10^8 cycles (100,000,000
cycles) arrives fairly soon, especially when every bump in the road is
considered a stress cycle.

Hmmm... I could probably guestimate the Ti frame life. A 700c wheel
is very close to 2 meters circumference. In 1 km, that's 500 wheel
revolutions. Pulling a number out of my hat, I would guess(tm) about
1 stress cycle per revolution, or 500 bumps per km. 10^8 bumps would
require riding:
1*10^8 bumps / 500 bumps/km = 200,000 km
At 100 km/week, that would take:
200,000km / 100km/week = 2,000 weeks
2,000 weeks / 52 weeks/year = 38 years
of riding before your titanium frame falls apart. I expected less,
but 38 years seems acceptable. If you want a better number, attach on
the strain gauges and provide a number for how many bumps per km your
experience while riding.

http://www.metalspiping.com/the-fati...um-alloys.html
The point that you are missing in your calculation is the severity of
the stress imposed. At a stress of 900 MPa (130,533.96 psi) the
titanium sample broke after a bit less then 10^4 cycles and at a
stress of 600 MPa (87,022 psi) it required ~10^7 cycles.

Another point is that the strength and fatigue failure of titanium
varies greatly depending on the alloy. the numbers above are obviously
for an alloy of titanium but pure titanium fails as low as 275 MPa
(39,885 psi) for 10^7 cycles in the annealed condition and as cold
rolled at 300 MPa (43,511 psi) for 10^7 cycles.

So, if a titanium alloy you may be able to hit 10,000,000 bumps at a
force of 87,022 psi before the bicycle breaks :-)

This discussion of theoretical limits of an ideal tube with
ideal jointing is one thing. The real world is another.

Failures (in Ti, in steel, in aluminum) are more commonly
associated with internal stress from joining under
tension[1] (misalignment), poor jointing (cold welds,
contaminated welds, poor braze flow, insufficient weld
depth, etc), seam failure in seamed or seamed/redrawn
material and of course catastrophic (crash) impact.

[1] typical 'forced into position' failures:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/ZITO2.JPG
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/bia201d.jpg

speaking of Marx, the Soviet New Man isn't any better a
framebuilder on his 'off' days:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/rus17g.jpg
Goof Lord, you're not indicating that steel might fail? According to Jay and Frank that only happens to titanium and not steel or carbon fiber. Though each may disagree with the other there.

Why do you just make this sh** up? It's not cute. Neither I nor Frank nor anyone has said that other materials do not fail as often or more often that Ti. I've broken four or more steel frames, five or more aluminum. It is likely that had I owned Ti, I would have broken it. I broke a Ti chain (stupid purchase) and Ti pedal spindles (also a stupid purchase), but that was back in the '70s when Ti was pretty sketchy and was expected to break.

-- Jay Beattie.

On 5/19/2021 10:11 AM, jbeattie wrote:

snip

Why do you just make this sh** up? It's not cute. Neither I nor Frank nor anyone has said that other materials do not fail as often or more often that Ti. I've broken four or more steel frames, five or more aluminum. It is likely that had I owned Ti, I would have broken it. I broke a Ti chain (stupid purchase) and Ti pedal spindles (also a stupid purchase), but that was back in the '70s when Ti was pretty sketchy and was expected to break.

Wow, you're really hard on your frames. Have you considered counseling?

On 5/19/2021 9:54 AM, Lou Holtman wrote:

snip

It is not a 3 phase device, it is a single phase. 3 phase is unusual for a normal family house. Only if people have heavy equipment they choose for a 3 phase connection. It is more expensive. The brown wire you see is the hot/phase wire, the blue the neutral and the yellow/green wire the ground.The capacitor is between the brown and blue wire. The purple wires is the connection to the 'guts' of the dryer but basically an extension of the brown and blue wires.

You would rarely have 3 phase for normal single family home in the U.S.
I've never seen it though I suppose a mansion might have 3 phase.

In the U.S. houses have "split-phase" for 240V. Two 120V hot wires, and
one neutral, are used for high-wattage appliances (clothes dryers,
ovens, pool pumps, air conditioners, level 2 EV chargers etc.). The two
120V lines are 180 degrees out of phase. Until recently, the 240V
outlets had no ground wire, you used a 3 wire power cord with just two
hots and one neutral. More recently the 240V outlets changed to four
contacts, adding a ground.

The lack of 240V outlets in many houses has become more of an issue more
recently as EV chargers have become more common. It's very costly to run
a new 240V circuit from the electrical panel to the garage. You can buy
devices that switch between an electric clothes dryer and an EV charger
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DLBCXXQ/, but you can't use both at the
same time. I built one for about $80.

Am Wed, 19 May 2021 11:25:46 -0400 schrieb Frank Krygowski
:

On 5/19/2021 3:18 AM, James wrote:
On 18/5/21 11:38 pm, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28

Lou, waiting for parts.


Our dryer looks remarkably less complicated.

https://www.hillshome.com.au/our-pro...t-clothesline/

Ah yes, a solar powered clothes dryer!

We recently lost the tree that held the hook for our two retractable
clothes lines. I suppose I'll have to sink a post of some sort in the
middle of the yard.

We have a large Amish area in the northern part of my riding area. It's
very picturesque, including the look of clothes drying on a line.


https://www.mystrobl.de/ws/pic/fahrrad/20190906/DSC00104.jpg

A picture taken while riding around the Périgord noir area in France,
2019.


https://www.mystrobl.de/ws/pic/fahrrad/20190906/DSC00096.jpg

We enjoyed riding there. In no way similar to Amish areas, but
picturesque, too.

--
Wir danken für die Beachtung aller Sicherheitsbestimmungen