Inexpensive Rigid Geared MTB?

I'm thinking of giving the electric bike thing a go. Since I last
checked speeds have gotten well above what's legal, and when geared to
top out around 25 (for legalities sake) steep hills are no issue, and
range of 50 miles is common. To boot, the batteries (LiFePO4) are now
small and light enough to carry an extra without too much discomfort.
I'm thinking hard panniers for the batteries and controller and a rear
hub motor (so the panniers hide the electric hub, at least at a
glance). This would allow me to commute to work without getting all
sweaty, in a reasonable amount of time (commute is around 40 miles
each way) and still get my exercize on the way home. I was (and still
am) considering my Motobecane Outcast 29er as a donor bike. Thing is,
I'd need to add a rear derailler, shifters, a much larger chain ring
up front (if not a triple) and I'd be losing the Outcast for it's
purpose. Sicne I like that bike, I'm considering an inexpensive rigid
MTB with a normal range of gears for a donor. I'm OK with Bikes
Direct, Nashbar, etc. I have the abilty to take them from the box to
properly functioning bikes. Problem is, everything I'm finding has
suspension. I don't want the added weight and poor function of a
cheap suspension fork, and don't want to buy a nice one. 80% will be
on-road anyway, and I ride rigid quite a bit off-road, so I'm pretty
set on the rigid thing.

Any suggestions?

yeah, think gas. Honda's no flash in the pan. 50cc, ride slow.
Florida legalized motorbikes. Does legalization increase durability ?
Honda produce a below 50 ?

try the
http://www.redlinebicycles.com/adultbikes/monocog.html
see the tracking geometry ? where ya gonna ride ? Stonehenge ? PS
1145 ? Arlington National ?
converts to the Monodog with a hanger from Universalcycles.com.

40 miles one way will fry batteries no problem. $$$

On Mar 31, 4:10*pm, " wrote:
I'm thinking of giving the electric bike thing a go. *Since I last
checked speeds have gotten well above what's legal, and when geared to
top out around 25 (for legalities sake) steep hills are no issue, and
range of 50 miles is common. *To boot, the batteries (LiFePO4) are now
small and light enough to carry an extra without too much discomfort.
I'm thinking hard panniers for the batteries and controller and a rear
hub motor (so the panniers hide the electric hub, at least at a
glance). *This would allow me to commute to work without getting all
sweaty, in a reasonable amount of time (commute is around 40 miles
each way) and still get my exercize on the way home. *I was (and still
am) considering my Motobecane Outcast 29er as a donor bike. *Thing is,
I'd need to add a rear derailler, shifters, a much larger chain ring
up front (if not a triple) and I'd be losing the Outcast for it's
purpose. *Sicne I like that bike, I'm considering an inexpensive rigid
MTB with a normal range of gears for a donor. *I'm OK with Bikes
Direct, Nashbar, etc. *I have the abilty to take them from the box to
properly functioning bikes. *Problem is, everything I'm finding has
suspension. *I don't want the added weight and poor function of a
cheap suspension fork, and don't want to buy a nice one. *80% will be
on-road anyway, and I ride rigid quite a bit off-road, so I'm pretty
set on the rigid thing.

There are two ways to go, here.

1.) Goto eBay, and find an acceptable hardtail in your size and
price. Retrofit a rigid front fork.

2.) Goto eBay, find an old rigid bike that you can retrofit your
motorized hub into.

I am assuming you can lace up your own hub.

The beauty of getting a steel hardtail is that you can change the
width of the rear dropouts without fatally compromising the metal.
Heck, I have a rigid Trek steel MTB that I got for $150 - looks like
it got ridden just the once, and hung in the garage for the next 20
years. They are out there...

E.P.

On Mar 31, 8:29*pm, datakoll wrote:

I'm gonna take a stab at interpreting this...

yeah, think gas. Honda's no flash in the pan. 50cc, ride slow.
Florida legalized motorbikes. Does legalization increase durability ?
Honda produce a below 50 ?

If I want gas I'll ride my motorcycle. The point of this project is
an under the radar, quiet, powered ride to work that I can exercize on
the way home with. Moped pedals are only good for about 4MPH, to get
it started


try thehttp://www.redlinebicycles.com/adultbikes/monocog.html
see the tracking geometry ? where ya gonna ride ? Stonehenge ? PS
1145 ? Arlington National ?
converts to the Monodog with a hanger from Universalcycles.com.

Southern NH, some northeastern MA. 80% road, 20% trails.

As for the redline, it's a lot like my motobecause Outcast, only more
$. If it comes to that I'll use my outcast, or buy a geared version.


40 miles one way will fry batteries no problem. $$$

Not sure what you're saying here. but 40 miles one way is no problem
on todays batteries and motors. It was a few years ago, which is why
I never got around to this project. Now it's doable.

On Mar 31, 9:08*pm, wrote:
On Mar 31, 4:10*pm, " wrote:





I'm thinking of giving the electric bike thing a go. *Since I last
checked speeds have gotten well above what's legal, and when geared to
top out around 25 (for legalities sake) steep hills are no issue, and
range of 50 miles is common. *To boot, the batteries (LiFePO4) are now
small and light enough to carry an extra without too much discomfort.
I'm thinking hard panniers for the batteries and controller and a rear
hub motor (so the panniers hide the electric hub, at least at a
glance). *This would allow me to commute to work without getting all
sweaty, in a reasonable amount of time (commute is around 40 miles
each way) and still get my exercize on the way home. *I was (and still
am) considering my Motobecane Outcast 29er as a donor bike. *Thing is,
I'd need to add a rear derailler, shifters, a much larger chain ring
up front (if not a triple) and I'd be losing the Outcast for it's
purpose. *Sicne I like that bike, I'm considering an inexpensive rigid
MTB with a normal range of gears for a donor. *I'm OK with Bikes
Direct, Nashbar, etc. *I have the abilty to take them from the box to
properly functioning bikes. *Problem is, everything I'm finding has
suspension. *I don't want the added weight and poor function of a
cheap suspension fork, and don't want to buy a nice one. *80% will be
on-road anyway, and I ride rigid quite a bit off-road, so I'm pretty
set on the rigid thing.

There are two ways to go, here.

1.) *Goto eBay, and find an acceptable hardtail in your size and
price. *Retrofit a rigid front fork.

2.) *Goto eBay, find an old rigid bike that you can retrofit your
motorized hub into.

I am assuming you can lace up your own hub.

The beauty of getting a steel hardtail is that you can change the
width of the rear dropouts without fatally compromising the metal.
Heck, I have a rigid Trek steel MTB that I got for $150 - looks like
it got ridden just the once, and hung in the garage for the next 20
years. *They are out there...

E.P.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Fleabay is an option. I'd just rather not buy a bike and fork
separately. I suppose if the price on each is right it could work.

One last thing I forgot to mention, braze-ons. I want to be able to
put a rack and maybe fenders on it. Otherwise something like the 2009
Motobecane 300 HT Mountain Bike ($300) could work after a rigid fork
swap. Aluminum frame where I'd prefer steel, but I'm sure it'd be
fine. It's one of the few inexpensive bikes out there that does not
come with garbage disk brakes. V-brakes are cheap to replace, and
there is a decent chance I'll be able to adjust them so they work
well. I was able to with the brakes that came on my Motobecane
Outcast 29er.

Damn, you'd think somebody would be making a basic, inexpensive rigid
MTB these days.

DOABLE ? SEZ WHO ?

5 MILES ONE WAY

walmart sells one. how far does the wal electric go ?

batts run on 50% charge or the batts are short lived
charging rate for the 50% aH is total amp capacity/20
advice here was 'a battery iza battery'
unless the batt costs $10-15 per amp
the lithium batt powering the laptop I type on now doesn't last longer
than a deep charge Optima, its smaller.
If it were as large as an Optima then the aH would be abt the same,
right ?

that's the car batt problem: deep drain and quick charge fries the
batts

On Mar 31, 7:16*pm, DanKMTB wrote:
On Mar 31, 9:08*pm, wrote:



On Mar 31, 4:10*pm, " wrote:

I'm thinking of giving the electric bike thing a go. *Since I last
checked speeds have gotten well above what's legal, and when geared to
top out around 25 (for legalities sake) steep hills are no issue, and
range of 50 miles is common. *To boot, the batteries (LiFePO4) are now
small and light enough to carry an extra without too much discomfort.
I'm thinking hard panniers for the batteries and controller and a rear
hub motor (so the panniers hide the electric hub, at least at a
glance). *This would allow me to commute to work without getting all
sweaty, in a reasonable amount of time (commute is around 40 miles
each way) and still get my exercize on the way home. *I was (and still
am) considering my Motobecane Outcast 29er as a donor bike. *Thing is,
I'd need to add a rear derailler, shifters, a much larger chain ring
up front (if not a triple) and I'd be losing the Outcast for it's
purpose. *Sicne I like that bike, I'm considering an inexpensive rigid
MTB with a normal range of gears for a donor. *I'm OK with Bikes
Direct, Nashbar, etc. *I have the abilty to take them from the box to
properly functioning bikes. *Problem is, everything I'm finding has
suspension. *I don't want the added weight and poor function of a
cheap suspension fork, and don't want to buy a nice one. *80% will be
on-road anyway, and I ride rigid quite a bit off-road, so I'm pretty
set on the rigid thing.

There are two ways to go, here.

1.) *Goto eBay, and find an acceptable hardtail in your size and
price. *Retrofit a rigid front fork.

2.) *Goto eBay, find an old rigid bike that you can retrofit your
motorized hub into.

I am assuming you can lace up your own hub.

The beauty of getting a steel hardtail is that you can change the
width of the rear dropouts without fatally compromising the metal.
Heck, I have a rigid Trek steel MTB that I got for $150 - looks like
it got ridden just the once, and hung in the garage for the next 20
years. *They are out there...

E.P.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Fleabay is an option. *I'd just rather not buy a bike and fork
separately. *I suppose if the price on each is right it could work.

One last thing I forgot to mention, braze-ons. *I want to be able to
put a rack and maybe fenders on it. *Otherwise something like the 2009
Motobecane 300 HT Mountain Bike ($300) could work after a rigid fork
swap. *Aluminum frame where I'd prefer steel, but I'm sure it'd be
fine. *It's one of the few inexpensive bikes out there that does not
come with garbage disk brakes. *V-brakes are cheap to replace, and
there is a decent chance I'll be able to adjust them so they work
well. *I was able to with the brakes that came on my Motobecane
Outcast 29er.

Damn, you'd think somebody would be making a basic, inexpensive rigid
MTB these days.

Well, I had considered those things in my advice. A high-quality 20-
year-old MTB will serve your purpose well. In addition, the center-
pulls can be swapped for Vs - I did it on both my wife's Fisher
HooKooEEKoo HT and my Trek Mountain Track.

Also, I have noticed that the used/consignment rack at the LBS has
decent steel HTs for good prices if you keep going back often
enough.

E.P.

On Mar 31, 10:36*pm, datakoll wrote:
walmart sells one. how far does the wal electric go ?

Don't know, don't care, not relevent. The wallyworld bike likely uses
a brushed motor and a small SLA battery. I'm talking about brushless
hub motors and LiFePO4 batteries.


batts run on 50% charge or the batts are short lived
charging rate for the 50% aH is total amp capacity/20
advice here was 'a battery iza battery'
unless the batt costs $10-15 per amp
the lithium batt powering the laptop I type on now doesn't last longer
than a *deep charge Optima, its smaller.
If it were as large as an Optima then the aH would be abt the same,
right ?

that's the car batt problem: deep drain and quick charge fries the
batts

No. The lithium on your laptop is older technology as well. Car
batteries are SLA, not even in the same ballpark. I'm talking about
LiFePO4. No memory, can use 80% of thier capacity per charge no
problem, over 1000 cycles, etc. The technology has changed. I use
LiFePO4 (A123) on my RC plane, so I have a good idea just how
resiliant they are.

On Apr 1, 12:46*am, wrote:
On Mar 31, 7:16*pm, DanKMTB wrote:





On Mar 31, 9:08*pm, wrote:

On Mar 31, 4:10*pm, " wrote:

I'm thinking of giving the electric bike thing a go. *Since I last
checked speeds have gotten well above what's legal, and when geared to
top out around 25 (for legalities sake) steep hills are no issue, and
range of 50 miles is common. *To boot, the batteries (LiFePO4) are now
small and light enough to carry an extra without too much discomfort.