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Sicily, anyone?
I am thinking of a bike trip to Sicily next year. Anybody have any comments
I need to hear? thanks, Pat |
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#2
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Sicily, anyone?
Pat wrote:
I am thinking of a bike trip to Sicily next year. Anybody have any comments I need to hear? Preface all ot the following with "in my experience"... It's got lots of ancient Grrek ruins, if you like that sort of thing. Siracusa has an archeological park. Agrigento is crawling with tourists, though the row of Greek temples on the ridge overlooking the Mediterranean is spectacular (you can't actually walk in the buildings). On the southwest coast, Selinunte is (or used to be) completely abandoned and a great place to wander among the remnants of the Greek settlement. Segesta, just west of Palermo, has a nice temple and amphitheater. Taormina on the NE coast is very jet-set, but is the site of the amphitheater seen in Woody Allen's "Mighty Aphrodite". Many locations in Sicily are the associated with ancient Greek myths. The straits between the mainland and the island are where the twin perils Scylla and Charybdis were. The coast between Taormina and Catania has rocks standing vertically out of the sea, which are the projectiles the blinded Cyclops threw at Ulysses and his men as they escaped. Lake Pegusa near Enna, in the geographic center of Sicily, is where Hades kidnapped Persephone and dragged her to the underground to be his queen. Palermo may not be too bike-friendly, but the Norman-Moorish royal palace and the cathedral at Monreale are well worth visitng. If you're riding self-supported, plan carefully and have backup food and water. Outside the towns, there's basically nothing except the occasional shepherd or farmer tending a field. Outside the more cosmopolitan towns, unaccompanied women cyclists will be (a) hit upon by men, even if they're wearing an obvious wedding band, (b) regarded as "loose" for not staying at home and tending the kitchen and babies, especially by the older women! A lot of older people in the smaller towns and villages speak only local dialect, not standard Italian, much less English, and knowledge of Italian won't necessarily help you understand dialect. On the other hand, you may well bump into a local who used to live and/or work in the States and speaks perfect American English, with an American accent, no less. Yes, Sicilians really do talk with their hands, and you will likely see men greet each other by kissing cheeks. Food is generally superb, with emphasis on vegetables, tomato sauce, olive oil and seafood (in contrast to meat, cream, butter, as you might encounter in the north). Siclian pizza is more like what Americans think of as pizza than what you'd find in Tuscany or the north. Breakfast is typically just a pastry and espresso unless you're staying at a place which caters to international tourists or business people. Lunch is strictly from noon to about 2. If you don't find a place to eat lunch during those hours, good luck finding nourishment until dinnertime, which isn't until 8 pm -- unless, of course, you've shopped ahead to make your own picnic lunch. Oh yeah, most stores will close promptly at noon including supermarkets, bakeries, delis (alimentari) and grocery shops. Many businesses are closed on Monday (as well as Sunday) -- this includes smaller hotels and pensiones; i.e., no staff at reception. The interior reminds me of California: scrub grass, semi-desert, with occasional farms growing prickly pear cactus. Some parts of the coast are really ugly because of huge petrochemical plants, generally in the southeast. |
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