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Inside a Chainglider after 3500km with zero chain maintenance



 
 
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  #1  
Old April 7th 15, 05:12 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
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Posts: 6,016
Default Inside a Chainglider after 3500km with zero chain maintenance

On 2015-04-06 6:34 PM, James wrote:
On 05/04/15 11:23, Andre Jute wrote:

Photo:

http://coolmainpress.com/ajwriting/archives/4860

Laterally yours,

Andre Jute



Nice. I'm up to 17,500km on two chains in alternate use on a single
cassette. However I cook and swap chains about once a month, and avoid
wet weather riding where possible. I have been caught out in the rain
though. Sometimes I risk it and get caught out. I actually left one
chain on for several months, and now the other chain wont run on the
cassette. For the past 4 months I've been on one chain.


The KMC-X10.93 on my MTB was gone after about 1200mi or less than
2000km. Way gone. I found that once it reached the 0.8% stretch limit
its continued wear accelerated big time.

90% hard offroad though. Factory lube which is good on the KMC lasts
roughly 100mi on the MTB after which it begins to make noise. After that
it gets a thorough cleaning and White Lightning Epic Ride every 50mi or
so. Rohloff would be nice but $1500 plus wheel build is a bit much.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Ads
  #2  
Old April 7th 15, 07:34 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Default Inside a Chainglider after 3500km with zero chain maintenance

white lightning sucks goat urine.

Rollo's have fiber cogs. How spend that much for fiber cogs in the sweet spot is beyond me except consider Rollo's are generally not used by riders doahn ride

INCREDULOUS

  #4  
Old April 7th 15, 11:24 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 6,374
Default Inside a Chainglider after 3500km with zero chain maintenance

, Joerg

FIBER COGS FIBER COGS ? yeah I dunno....last nite I searched in carbon fiber cogs.

you should try Pedro's 2.0 with the silicon spray refresher. The 2.0 moves toward a wax-dino oil formula.

Cal's ocean bed limestone dust mixed with diesel fuel sticks to the windshield like the stuff was formulated for that.

If you cut a polyjug into a 2" wide Z shape lengthwise covering the CR front with the top Z leg...STRETCHING the horizontal members to cover by design into cut shape....mounting the upper leg to tube with a hose clamp..

this cover will reduce CR dust accumulation maybe 75%

a second flow comes from sticky dirt making the trip over the top as the rear wheel moves To the CR. I saw a commercial seat tube mounted shield on a Bontrager Touring bike...maybe 1.5' feet 1 foot ! long vertically n abt 4-5" curving out each side. The seat tube glider

most of that dirt drops o the front deray. Another leg and shelf.

.....................

the rear wheel dusts from straight down from tire rolling forward n up...shingle taping the cleaned deray with electrical tape cpovers the deray.

a polyjug cut cover with shelf and leg for hose clamp attachment to the axle to seat tube...I forget... covers the gear cluster


if you do these guards which is painless then more than 70-80% dirt per mile is deflected.

In promoting this I found one positive response both online and on road cementing my opinion that yawl have your head stuck in your asshole abt bike tech.
  #5  
Old April 8th 15, 12:54 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Andre Jute[_2_]
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Posts: 10,422
Default Inside a Chainglider after 3500km with zero chain maintenance

On Tuesday, April 7, 2015 at 5:12:28 PM UTC+1, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-04-06 6:34 PM, James wrote:
On 05/04/15 11:23, Andre Jute wrote:

Photo:

http://coolmainpress.com/ajwriting/archives/4860

Laterally yours,

Andre Jute



Nice. I'm up to 17,500km on two chains in alternate use on a single
cassette. However I cook and swap chains about once a month, and avoid
wet weather riding where possible. I have been caught out in the rain
though. Sometimes I risk it and get caught out. I actually left one
chain on for several months, and now the other chain wont run on the
cassette. For the past 4 months I've been on one chain.


The KMC-X10.93 on my MTB was gone after about 1200mi or less than
2000km. Way gone. I found that once it reached the 0.8% stretch limit
its continued wear accelerated big time.

90% hard offroad though. Factory lube which is good on the KMC lasts
roughly 100mi on the MTB after which it begins to make noise. After that
it gets a thorough cleaning and White Lightning Epic Ride every 50mi or
so. Rohloff would be nice but $1500 plus wheel build is a bit much.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/


I have a theory that once a cyclist establishes a mileage x on a transmission component, and some approximation to best practice for his transmission chain, fiddling with brands of components and lube will win him only marginal improvements. He has to make some kind of a radical rethink to get a radical improvement over his established mileage.

When my bikes had Shimano hub gearboxesI used to get 1000 miles on Shimano Nexus transmission sets -- inside those big plastic Dutch chain cases, with perfectly clean chains encased in white wax. Fiddling around with brand names and lubes and fiddly bits (the chainline is important) I eventually got my mileage up to better than 1100m.

Then I switched to the Rohloff box and tight-fitting, tightly enclosed chain cases, steel or stainless gears (now all stainless, but not because any of the steel wore out before it's time, merely as a step in my experiment towards the zero maintenance bike), and KMC Z8 and X8 chains, with Oil of Rohloff lube, and immediately got 4506km, near enough 3000m, definitely a quantum step.

Now I'm at 3500km in an experiment to run the KMC X8 chain, Rohloff factory cog, and Surly stainless steel chainring, all inside a Hebie Chainglider, without any lube but what came on the X8 from the factory. I already have developed my bike to the point where once a year the oil is changed and the gearchange connector gets a shot of grease and a new chain is fitted, which is the nearest approach to a zero maintenance bike available anywhere on earth, I think. But I'd like to see, in another 1000km, whether the factory lube makes the same distance as lubing by Oil of Rohloff.

***

BTW, Oil of Rohloff is wonderful stuff. It is light and clean and very economical as you just lay a light bead on top of the chain, so that a little bottle goes a long way. I bought six of the little bottles with my bike, and in 4506km used less than half of one bottle. The stuff's also cheap, about five Euro a bottle. It spreads and clings tenaciously, though, so you want to be careful where else it gets on your bike because it just doesn't want to be wiped off. It doesn't stain clothes, which is good.
  #6  
Old April 8th 15, 01:05 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Andre Jute[_2_]
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Posts: 10,422
Default Inside a Chainglider after 3500km with zero chain maintenance

On Tuesday, April 7, 2015 at 7:34:09 PM UTC+1, wrote:

Rollo's have fiber cogs. How spend that much for fiber cogs in the sweet spot is beyond me except consider Rollo's are generally not used by riders doahn ride

INCREDULOUS


You should be incredulous, you ignorant clown, at the incredible lies you spread every time you open your fat mouth. There are no fiber cogs on any Rohloff anywhere in the world, no matter what irrelevances your incompetent googling throws up.

Andre Jute
Standing tall for truth
  #7  
Old April 8th 15, 01:39 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Andre Jute[_2_]
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Posts: 10,422
Default Inside a Chainglider after 3500km with zero chain maintenance

On Tuesday, April 7, 2015 at 8:36:48 PM UTC+1, Joerg wrote:

On my road bike it's more like 150mi [per application of White Lightning Epic lube], depending on how many of those
miles are off pavement.


If that's all you get, you may as well work with the clean white wax. I used to get 150 tarmac miles out of a lube.

Rollo's have fiber cogs. How spend that much for fiber cogs in the
sweet spot is beyond me except consider Rollo's are generally not
used by riders doahn ride

INCREDULOUS


Rohloff has fiber cogs? Seriously?


This poor jerk Danilels sees a post, makes a fast hit on Google with an incompent search term, then posts whatever it says in the first link just to post something. Then he postures as an expert.

You can get three kinds of cogs on a Rohloff hub:
1. Rohloff's own long-lasting and reasonably priced reversible cogs. Most people use these.
2. Special tooth count cogs. Rohloff for instance licensed the English touring bike make Thorn to make a tooth count they don't make themselves; it's no longer available, presumably because not enough buyers wanted it. (The licensing has to do with the torque permitted on the hub, which is a function of the chainring and sprocket tooth ratio. For instance, I use 38x16 with a factory cog, which is already a stump puller even on 700C wheels, but Rohloff permits even lower for real heavy tourers who want to climb vertical hills. )
3. Gates Belt Drive. The belt is carbon fibre, the cogs are steel. Again, a special license from Rohloff is required for the installation.

That hub has a good reputation, with people clocking north of 50k miles
on the same hub.


These days it's north of a lot more than 50K. But a downhiller like you shouldn't make his judgement on what tourers do, but on what the mudpluggers achieve: none of them have ever wrecked a Rohloff box terminally. Rohloff installations are headed for 200,000 and there isn't even one that has been terminated. Rohloff refuses to say what the life expectancy of the box is, not because they're obstructive but because they simply don't know.

It's just a tad expensive. Not sure how the less
expensive Alfine would hold up on a MTB.


Mmm. See, Shimano had a seven-speed Nexus box, which was developed from a 3-speed Nexus box that goes back to at least the nineties, maybe the eighties of the last century. (Where is Vogel, my little googlebug, when I need him?) They sold a gazillion of the seven speed boxes to OEMs in Taiwan and The Netherlands. It has a reputation as a good, tough, commuter box. Then Shimano extended its range by turning it into an eight speed box. This one was a bit fragile if not properly serviced. Mine is rough after about 5000m. Shimano added a so-called "Premium" 8-speed with better seals and bearings. Mine clocked out at about 5000m. Shimano then built an Alfine 11-speed specifically for tougher duty. It has mixed reports, but by this time I'd given up on Shimano hub gearboxes as unsuitable for mashers; they're probably admirable for commuters. Shimano next produced an 8-sp Alfine which may be a downscaled Alfine and thus better than the Premium 8-sp or may just be the Premium 8-sp renamed. All of these require a service every 5000km by being disassembled and stood in a bath of oil. The service kit costs between a quarter and a tenth of the purchase price of the box or 250% of the price of a Rohloff service kit.

Chalo Colina, one of the smartest and most experienced cyclists ever to come to RBT, said that a Rohloff just starts to be run in when a Shimano hub gearbox is worn out. It's true.

Experience with Shimano hub gearboxes (which I admire on a cost/benefit basis for less strenuous applications than mine; I also admire the roller brakes that come with them but, again, not their service requirements) persuaded me that a Rohloff is a cheap option for the committed cyclist. I haven't regretted the expenditure for a single moment.

Andre Jute
  #8  
Old April 8th 15, 01:41 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
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Posts: 6,016
Default Inside a Chainglider after 3500km with zero chain maintenance

On 2015-04-07 3:24 PM, wrote:
, Joerg

FIBER COGS FIBER COGS ? yeah I dunno....last nite I searched in
carbon fiber cogs.

you should try Pedro's 2.0 with the silicon spray refresher. The 2.0
moves toward a wax-dino oil formula.


Many road bikers here use wax. But it isn't so great for MTB rides out
here. The KMC factory lube is waxy and it attracts our trail dust like a
magnet.


Cal's ocean bed limestone dust mixed with diesel fuel sticks to the
windshield like the stuff was formulated for that.


It does that even without Diesel. Then there is the splash from muddy
areas which is right now caked on my bike's frame almost like enamel. By
now even the battery isn't recognizable.

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Muddy.JPG


If you cut a polyjug into a 2" wide Z shape lengthwise covering the
CR front with the top Z leg...STRETCHING the horizontal members to
cover by design into cut shape....mounting the upper leg to tube
with a hose clamp..

this cover will reduce CR dust accumulation maybe 75%


I was thinking about something like that but don't want to have any
sharp plastic down there. That's a recipe for nasty cuts and lots of
blood. I'll be looking for something a little stiffer than neoprene, no
sharp edges. Another option may be really soft aluminum with well
rounded edges. Fastening this stuff safely isn't trivial. Mainly because
we also have lots of loose rock which bangs into the bike's bottom all
the time. Occasionally agains a shin and man that hurts. It gets kicked
up by the front tire and then flies at you at the traveling speed.


a second flow comes from sticky dirt making the trip over the top as
the rear wheel moves To the CR. I saw a commercial seat tube mounted
shield on a Bontrager Touring bike...maybe 1.5' feet 1 foot ! long
vertically n abt 4-5" curving out each side. The seat tube glider

most of that dirt drops o the front deray. Another leg and shelf.

....................

the rear wheel dusts from straight down from tire rolling forward n
up...shingle taping the cleaned deray with electrical tape cpovers
the deray.

a polyjug cut cover with shelf and leg for hose clamp attachment to
the axle to seat tube...I forget... covers the gear cluster


Rear wheel dusting is surprisingly little. But the front wheel is bad.
When looking down I can often see a constant plume. Sometimes it is so
bad that rides have to keep 100-200ft distance from each other, else the
followers cough their lungs out.



if you do these guards which is painless then more than 70-80% dirt
per mile is deflected.


That would be great. Getting 100mi out of a lube versus 50mi would be big.


In promoting this I found one positive response both online and on
road cementing my opinion that yawl have your head stuck in your
asshole abt bike tech.


Now, now ...

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #9  
Old April 8th 15, 01:52 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 6,374
Default Inside a Chainglider after 3500km with zero chain maintenance

Jute

you are an ugly pig and a barbarian vanity press author

the info sez FIBER COGS...the rebuild video sez FIBER COGS.

MAN TAKES HIS APRAT AND SEZ FIBER COGS







  #10  
Old April 8th 15, 01:54 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 6,374
Default Inside a Chainglider after 3500km with zero chain maintenance

A GALLON WATER JUG j NOT MIL SPEC URETHANE

 




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