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Remounting a dropped chain
"Michael Press" wrote in message
... In article , Joe Riel wrote: Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail. While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers (they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily). Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem several points of attack: 1. Avoid dropping the chain. Maybe there's a trick to avoid this in the first place. From experience the chain is often dropped when putting the wheel back on. Note that the various "sharp fin" devices that help prevent throwing the chain during a shift don't have much effect in this situation. 2. Keep the chain clean, say wax it. I've done this before, but would prefer not to. It's not like I have to deal with the dirty chain that much. 3. Avoid touching the chain. I've tried using a tire lever to get the chain back on the ring, but that doesn't always work (generally it requires turning the cranks, and isn't easy to do alone). Gloves would work, I've thought of adding a disposable latex glove to my kit but that seems a bit much. 4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards. I'd prefer a mechanical technique that allows me to easily remount a dropped chain without having to grap it with fingers. Pair of latex gloves in your tool kit. (Then leave them at the side of the road when you are done.) -- Michael Press I hate littering and leaving trash all about. There is enough trash about such as used CO2 bottles, tubes, even tires that cyclists leave already on the side of the roads or trails and paths. I remember seeing a couple of cyclists fixing a flat, and when they left, sure enough, they left the CO2 bottle and old tube on the side of the path, not ten feet from a trash can. What is it with people? I prefer to carry my trash to the next convenient place to dispose of it properly. Anyway like you I carry some latex surgical gloves too, they fit in the seat bag just fine. When you are done you can peel them off inside of each other, so the inside is out and the dirty side is in. Then shove them in your jersey pocket and dispose of them properly when I come upon a trash receptical later. You never know, on a really bad luck day, you might need them again. |
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#2
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Remounting a dropped chain
Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the
staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail. While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers (they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily). Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem several points of attack: 1. Avoid dropping the chain. Maybe there's a trick to avoid this in the first place. From experience the chain is often dropped when putting the wheel back on. Note that the various "sharp fin" devices that help prevent throwing the chain during a shift don't have much effect in this situation. 2. Keep the chain clean, say wax it. I've done this before, but would prefer not to. It's not like I have to deal with the dirty chain that much. 3. Avoid touching the chain. I've tried using a tire lever to get the chain back on the ring, but that doesn't always work (generally it requires turning the cranks, and isn't easy to do alone). Gloves would work, I've thought of adding a disposable latex glove to my kit but that seems a bit much. 4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards. I'd prefer a mechanical technique that allows me to easily remount a dropped chain without having to grap it with fingers. Joe |
#3
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Remounting a dropped chain
"Joe Riel" wrote in message ... Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail. While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers (they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily). Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem several points of attack: 1. Avoid dropping the chain. Maybe there's a trick to avoid this in the first place. From experience the chain is often dropped when putting the wheel back on. Note that the various "sharp fin" devices that help prevent throwing the chain during a shift don't have much effect in this situation. 2. Keep the chain clean, say wax it. I've done this before, but would prefer not to. It's not like I have to deal with the dirty chain that much. 3. Avoid touching the chain. I've tried using a tire lever to get the chain back on the ring, but that doesn't always work (generally it requires turning the cranks, and isn't easy to do alone). Gloves would work, I've thought of adding a disposable latex glove to my kit but that seems a bit much. 4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards. 5. Wear black socks and/or shorts. Nothing is full proof so it's better to have something to wipe one's hands width. Although, my chain is usually pretty damned clean unless it's raining or I've hit a lot of water crossings. And I just use Phil's Tenacious oil. Greg |
#4
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Remounting a dropped chain
On Thu, 22 Dec 2005 22:16:53 GMT, Joe Riel wrote:
[---] Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers (they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily). Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? [--] 3. Avoid touching the chain. I've tried using a tire lever to get the chain back on the ring, but that doesn't always work (generally it requires turning the cranks, and isn't easy to do alone). Gloves would work, I've thought of adding a disposable latex glove to my kit but that seems a bit much. That's what I do - I just use a pair of cheap rubber kitchen gloves when changing the wheel or the chain. |
#5
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Remounting a dropped chain
What kind of components are you using? I ask because this doesn't
happen to me when I have a rear flat. I have a Campy Record Triple ten speed on one bike, and Campy Chorus Triple nine speed on the other. (I drop the chain regularly on the track bike. g) I've been using Pedro's Ice Wax to lube my chain for quite awhile, and the chain stays a lot cleaner than when I used to use TriFlow. White Lightning lube seems to keep the chain fairly clean, too, but I have the impression it doesn't last as long as the Ice Wax. (The chain may last longer, too, but I don't have any data to support saying so.) If you must touch the chain, wipe your fingers on the inside of the leg of your shorts, where it isn't too visible, and head for home, to shorten the period you can be seen, and thus embarrassed. |
#6
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Remounting a dropped chain
On Thu, 22 Dec 2005 22:16:53 GMT, Joe Riel wrote:
Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail. While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers (they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily). Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem several points of attack: 1. Avoid dropping the chain. Maybe there's a trick to avoid this in the first place. From experience the chain is often dropped when putting the wheel back on. Note that the various "sharp fin" devices that help prevent throwing the chain during a shift don't have much effect in this situation. 2. Keep the chain clean, say wax it. I keep mine cleaner, but not super clean, with convential lube and frequent wiping. 3. Avoid touching the chain. Yes. I look for a leaf on the ground or something like that. 4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards. How about "don't get flats." I use Mr. Tuffies much of the time and get extremely few flats out on the road. JT **************************** Remove "remove" to reply Visit http://www.jt10000.com **************************** |
#7
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Remounting a dropped chain
On Thu, 22 Dec 2005 22:16:53 GMT, Joe Riel wrote:
Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail. While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers (they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily). Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem several points of attack: 1. Avoid dropping the chain. Maybe there's a trick to avoid this in the first place. From experience the chain is often dropped when putting the wheel back on. Note that the various "sharp fin" devices that help prevent throwing the chain during a shift don't have much effect in this situation. 2. Keep the chain clean, say wax it. I've done this before, but would prefer not to. It's not like I have to deal with the dirty chain that much. 3. Avoid touching the chain. I've tried using a tire lever to get the chain back on the ring, but that doesn't always work (generally it requires turning the cranks, and isn't easy to do alone). Gloves would work, I've thought of adding a disposable latex glove to my kit but that seems a bit much. 4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards. I'd prefer a mechanical technique that allows me to easily remount a dropped chain without having to grap it with fingers. Cool old steel race bikes (like mine) had a little rivet looking dooble brazed onto the seat stay about four inches up from the dropout. You hang the chain on that to keep tension on the derailleur and everything stays in place. Ron |
#8
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Remounting a dropped chain
Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem?
Do you have a double? If so, shift the derailleur outwards and pedal it out. If you have a triple, it might still be doable if the chainring bolt heads aren't too thick. -- Phil, Squid-in-Training |
#9
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Remounting a dropped chain
"Phil, Squid-in-Training" writes:
Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? Do you have a double? If so, shift the derailleur outwards and pedal it out. If you have a triple, it might still be doable if the chainring bolt heads aren't too thick. It's kind of hard to "pedal it out" when I'm standing on the side of the road 8-). |
#10
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Remounting a dropped chain
Colin Campbell writes:
What kind of components are you using? I ask because this doesn't happen to me when I have a rear flat. I have a Campy Record Triple ten speed on one bike, and Campy Chorus Triple nine speed on the other. (I drop the chain regularly on the track bike. g) Campy Record double. I don't drop it while riding, just if the rear wheels off, the chain is on the small ring, and the cranks turn backwards. Joe |
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