#61
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Chain waxing
On Saturday, June 9, 2018 at 8:07:29 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-06-08 10:30, Duane wrote: On 08/06/2018 12:17 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-08 07:59, Duane wrote: On 08/06/2018 10:36 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-07 17:02, sms wrote: On 6/6/2018 7:35 AM, Joerg wrote: snip I clean my chain thoroughly using interdental toothbrushes. My wive found a brand at Costco that is more rigid than the usual ones so the job goes faster now. First used for my teeth, then later some day for a chain. Afterwards scrubbing with an old regular toothbrush, followed by a good wipe-down with Kleenex. Once the chain is really shiny I apply White Lightning Epic Ride. If you shake the bottle well the waxy stuff in it dissolves and thus gets onto the chain as well. I use a Q-Tip to dab it onlto the links, then gently wipe off any excess with a Kleenex. That way a road bike chain can run 150-250mi between cleanings depending on whether I ride more roads or more bike paths. Gets dirtier on roads. 40-50mi on the MTB, mostly on dirt trails. The upside is that this method does not require me to take the chain off the bike which I would really dread. OMG, is anyone really spending that much time on chain maintenance?! Get yourself a Park chain cleaner (or some other brand). Fill it with kerosene and run the chain through it. Repeat with clean solvent until the chain runs clean. Unless the chain is in the solvent, and moving, you won't get it clean on the inside. When it's clean, lubricate it with a foaming chain lube. So how long does that process take? And I mean with clean-up including the cleaning of the tools used. For most of those of us who are married clean-up is necessary, we can just leave the stuff sitting on some bench. The bike is already on the stand for washing. Last time I washed my road bike was ... ahm ... nineteen-sumpthin. The MTB doesn't get washed either, it just wouldn't make sense. The problems you have with equipment failure start to make sense... The BB would not have failed if I had hit it with the pressure washer after every ride. Yeah, right. I believe he uses a garden hose and not a 5000psi pressure washer. Ever watched the pros clean bikes (road and MTB)? Hose, suds, hose, etc., etc. Garden hoses are SOP. If your BB seals can't hack that, you need a different BB. ... I have a pan in my shed with a bottle of degreaser (not kerosene but something biodegradable) and the Park chain cleaner in the pan. Takes a few minutes to fill up the tool and run the chain through it. The pan catches the slosh. I don't usually change the degreaser. A couple minutes in the chain cleaner works well enough for me. Hose out everything and let it dry while the bike is drying. Certainly takes less time than what you describe with the toothbrushes. Well, yeah, if you just put the bath, the pan and so on back on the shelf as is. Not gonna happen here. You missed the part about hose everything down and let it dry with the bike. Cleanup doesn't take any time. Hose down the bath container? That would get you into trouble with environmental watchdogs some day. He said it was biodegradable. Just say "I don't wash my bikes" and don't try to make it impossible. People do it all the time -- even married people and city folk. -- Jay Beattie. |
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#62
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Chain waxing
On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 4:05:28 AM UTC-5, Tanguy Ortolo wrote:
Hello, For those interested in this, after my last inquiry about chain lubing, I decided to wax my chain by immersing it in a hot mixture of solid and liquid paraffin (with a ratio of 50% of paraffin oil). After about 600 km, including some significant rain,, must say it works pretty well. My chain still runs smoothly, and is almost perfectly clean. When needed, I can simply wipe it with some paper towel. I do not know yet when I will have to wax it again, but it seems to hold pretty well. -- Tanguy Using chain wax sounds great, but what about the old-fashioned Boeshield T-9? It's supposed to be waterproof. |
#63
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Chain waxing
On 09/06/2018 11:07 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-06-08 10:30, Duane wrote: On 08/06/2018 12:17 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-08 07:59, Duane wrote: On 08/06/2018 10:36 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-07 17:02, sms wrote: On 6/6/2018 7:35 AM, Joerg wrote: snip I clean my chain thoroughly using interdental toothbrushes. My wive found a brand at Costco that is more rigid than the usual ones so the job goes faster now. First used for my teeth, then later some day for a chain. Afterwards scrubbing with an old regular toothbrush, followed by a good wipe-down with Kleenex. Once the chain is really shiny I apply White Lightning Epic Ride. If you shake the bottle well the waxy stuff in it dissolves and thus gets onto the chain as well. I use a Q-Tip to dab it onlto the links, then gently wipe off any excess with a Kleenex. That way a road bike chain can run 150-250mi between cleanings depending on whether I ride more roads or more bike paths. Gets dirtier on roads. 40-50mi on the MTB, mostly on dirt trails. The upside is that this method does not require me to take the chain off the bike which I would really dread. OMG, is anyone really spending that much time on chain maintenance?! Get yourself a Park chain cleaner (or some other brand). Fill it with kerosene and run the chain through it. Repeat with clean solvent until the chain runs clean. Unless the chain is in the solvent, and moving, you won't get it clean on the inside. When it's clean, lubricate it with a foaming chain lube. So how long does that process take? And I mean with clean-up including the cleaning of the tools used. For most of those of us who are married clean-up is necessary, we can just leave the stuff sitting on some bench. The bike is already on the stand for washing. Last time I washed my road bike was ... ahm ... nineteen-sumpthin. The MTB doesn't get washed either, it just wouldn't make sense. The problems you have with equipment failure start to make sense... The BB would not have failed if I had hit it with the pressure washer after every ride. Yeah, right. WTF are you talking about? I don't wash my bike with a pressure washer and I don't wash my bike after every ride. I'm saying if you don't take care of your equipment and you seem to complain more than anyone of your equipment not lasting. Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* ... I have a pan in my shed with a bottle of degreaser (not kerosene but something biodegradable) and the Park chain cleaner in the pan.Â* Takes a few minutes to fill up the tool and run the chain through it.Â* The pan catches the slosh. I don't usually change the degreaser.Â* A couple minutes in the chain cleaner works well enough for me.Â* Hose out everything and let it dry while the bike is drying.Â* Certainly takes less time than what you describe with the toothbrushes. Well, yeah, if you just put the bath, the pan and so on back on the shelf as is. Not gonna happen here. You missed the part about hose everything down and let it dry with the bike.Â* Cleanup doesn't take any time. Hose down the bath container? That would get you into trouble with environmental watchdogs some day. What bath? Comprends-tu biodegradeable? Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* ... Not that I care much how you clean your chain.Â* Just answering your question. Above all, avoid hot wax. http://nordicgroup.us/chain/ I know some people who boil their chains in wax and reported good results but it's a major chore. Such reports also have to be taken with a grain of salt because not everyone rides on pristine asphalt. Some of us ride singletrack where the front wheel generates a plume of dust and the chain is right in the middle of that. I think James uses wax and I doubt that he rides only on pristine asphalt.Â* Why do you care what other people do to clean their chains? Never said I did. You sure write a lot about it then... Only about how I clean mine. It works. |
#64
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Chain waxing
On 10/06/2018 5:01 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, June 9, 2018 at 8:07:29 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-08 10:30, Duane wrote: On 08/06/2018 12:17 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-08 07:59, Duane wrote: On 08/06/2018 10:36 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-07 17:02, sms wrote: On 6/6/2018 7:35 AM, Joerg wrote: snip I clean my chain thoroughly using interdental toothbrushes. My wive found a brand at Costco that is more rigid than the usual ones so the job goes faster now. First used for my teeth, then later some day for a chain. Afterwards scrubbing with an old regular toothbrush, followed by a good wipe-down with Kleenex. Once the chain is really shiny I apply White Lightning Epic Ride. If you shake the bottle well the waxy stuff in it dissolves and thus gets onto the chain as well. I use a Q-Tip to dab it onlto the links, then gently wipe off any excess with a Kleenex. That way a road bike chain can run 150-250mi between cleanings depending on whether I ride more roads or more bike paths. Gets dirtier on roads. 40-50mi on the MTB, mostly on dirt trails. The upside is that this method does not require me to take the chain off the bike which I would really dread. OMG, is anyone really spending that much time on chain maintenance?! Get yourself a Park chain cleaner (or some other brand). Fill it with kerosene and run the chain through it. Repeat with clean solvent until the chain runs clean. Unless the chain is in the solvent, and moving, you won't get it clean on the inside. When it's clean, lubricate it with a foaming chain lube. So how long does that process take? And I mean with clean-up including the cleaning of the tools used. For most of those of us who are married clean-up is necessary, we can just leave the stuff sitting on some bench. The bike is already on the stand for washing. Last time I washed my road bike was ... ahm ... nineteen-sumpthin. The MTB doesn't get washed either, it just wouldn't make sense. The problems you have with equipment failure start to make sense... The BB would not have failed if I had hit it with the pressure washer after every ride. Yeah, right. I believe he uses a garden hose and not a 5000psi pressure washer. Ever watched the pros clean bikes (road and MTB)? Hose, suds, hose, etc., etc. Garden hoses are SOP. If your BB seals can't hack that, you need a different BB. Duh. Anyway, Joerg complains about everything on his bikes wearing out prematurely. Yeah, yeah I know, "out there" things are different. I didn't say anything about BBs. Just that most people seem to take better care of their equipment and have less complaints. Maybe there's some correlation... ... I have a pan in my shed with a bottle of degreaser (not kerosene but something biodegradable) and the Park chain cleaner in the pan. Takes a few minutes to fill up the tool and run the chain through it. The pan catches the slosh. I don't usually change the degreaser. A couple minutes in the chain cleaner works well enough for me. Hose out everything and let it dry while the bike is drying. Certainly takes less time than what you describe with the toothbrushes. Well, yeah, if you just put the bath, the pan and so on back on the shelf as is. Not gonna happen here. You missed the part about hose everything down and let it dry with the bike. Cleanup doesn't take any time. Hose down the bath container? That would get you into trouble with environmental watchdogs some day. He said it was biodegradable. He's just arguing to be arguing I think. Just say "I don't wash my bikes" and don't try to make it impossible. People do it all the time -- even married people and city folk. A guy at the ride yesterday wanted to stop for a beer after. I said I had to get home and cut the grass. He said him too but if he was late his wife would get ****ed and do it herself. I can't even imagine that concept. lol. But having a beer at home while hosing down the bike is sort of a nice way to relax IMO. |
#65
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Chain waxing
On 2018-06-10 11:03, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 10, 2018 at 9:49:56 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-10 08:01, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, June 10, 2018 at 7:36:02 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-09 16:22, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, June 9, 2018 at 8:04:24 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-08 10:06, jbeattie wrote: [...] ... She was up at like 2:00 AM this morning going through all my buckets in the garage . . . totally ****ed off at the condition of some of my bike cleaning brushes. So I asked her about the dust under the refrigerator . . . "have you seen that . . . have you? How could any self-respecting wife allow that disgusting accumulation? And your hair in the drain! It's like stringy snot! I want a divorce!" When making bacon and eggs this morning I mentioned a li'l grease spot on the range from yesterday. When I came home late from a fun MTB ride and she still made a very nice dinner. That didn't go over very well :-) Most women are neat freaks while most men would become real slobs if they weren't married to them. Have you seen Lou's garage? You could do surgery on the floor without fear of infection. Is this the guy who ride a bike with only a front brake? My wife has been very patient with the mess I made in the family room downstairs. I've been watching movies and doing heavy bike maintenance for the fleet which doubled when my son moved in after his injury. I'd be hearing about that every day. Though she has accepted that I ride on dirt trails a lot and that there is a fair amount of "trail debris" under the MTB in the garage. As long as none of it moves on its own. I just got back from Universal where I bought a liter of Shimano mineral oil for the hydraulic brakes. It was $4 more than buying 50ml from Bike Gallery. Incroyable -- $17.99 for 50ml. Even from Western, it's $12.75 for 50ml. You can get 1,000ml for anywhere from $18-22 low street price. I didn't even bother price matching at Universal and paid $22. I'll never use all that mineral oil, but I couldn't bear spending so much for 50ml. Maybe I'll sell the left overs on the disk brake black market. Sounds like the rip-off with brake pads. The LBS wants $16 for a pair of cheap resin pads while I buy nice ceramic-based ones for around $2/pair from China, in bulk. Well, as long as there is no brake pad tariff. The pads at the LBS are most likely also made in China, if not at the same factory. An oil change on a Rohloff hub would cost you about the same as an oil change on a car: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/ro...-8410/?geoc=US There must be huge profit margins on this stuff and of course they all try to make you captive by requiring to buy at the company store or the warranty is toast. By the way, I tried to buy $9 worth of hydraulic mineral oil made by Finish Line, and the guys at Bike Gallery (who I really like and have been good to me), basically swatted my hand away, saying that Shimano was the only way to go. I think either (1) Shimano has everyone cowed, or (2) Finish Line needs better PR. I think Shimano actually claims that the warranty on the hydraulic discs is voided if you use non-Shimano magical oil. I wonder if they'd do a full forensic investigation with each $100 warranty claim to find out which oil was used, who sold it, whether some sort of embargo was breached and whether the goons need to be sent out. My brakes are simple, they use DOT3 or DOT4 like the ones in our cars do. The quantity needs costs pennies. Shimano made the decision to go with mineral oil for the road discs, which was a legitimate choice, and considering the fill volumes, it saves a lot of waste DOT fluid that absorbs water and has to be tossed. DOT fluid is nasty on paint, etc. I can be sloppy with mineral oil -- use it for massage, laxative, etc., etc. It's multipurpose. DOT has much better performance when things get hot. Which they do on an MTB. Water boils off if you let it. So far I didn't have to change my fluid, just top off a wee bit. It is aggressive towards paint but not that aggressive. Paint is the last thing I'd worry about on my bikes. When doing fluid jobs on the brakes one has to be careful. I never spilled a drop. That's one of the jobs syringes where invented for. Actually, Shimano mineral oil has a higher boiling point than any DOT fluid, and it never changes boiling point. https://bikerumor.com/2013/04/11/tec...-disc-updated/ Scroll to the bottom. It's expensive, but it doesn't go bad -- so that's a plus. I hate having cans or bags of stuff that you have to throw away because they absorb water, like plaster and setting joint compounds, cement, etc. Quote (from your link): "An important point about the hygroscopic nature of DOT Fluid is that by absorbing the water into the fluid it is preventing pockets of water from forming that remain separate from the fluid in the system. Water is heavier and settles to the lowest point in the system, such as the caliper. This means that while the boiling point of the mineral oil remains high, the boiling point of the system is now that of water, only 100C/212F". That where the problem is. The caliper is where things get hot. I use a syringe, but I do get drips and drabs from the fill port or the lever port. Not much. You just wipe it off. Water in DOT boils out. That's what happens in the open systems on motor vehicles. Unfortunately bikes don't have those but if you were truly concerned about having to recycle that miniscule quantity you could just boil it off. Anyhow, I would not mind a Shimano brake system because I don't ride that hard (anymore). However, having seen a guy in front of me lose his front brake on a long downhill was a sobering lesson. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#66
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Chain waxing
On 2018-06-10 10:51, Tosspot wrote:
On 10/06/18 16:35, Joerg wrote: snip My brakes are simple, they use DOT3 or DOT4 like the ones in our cars do. The quantity needs costs pennies. My only problem with that is it's quite aggressive on paint, and you should bled the whole system every year. Mineral oil has neither of these problems, but you don't use it in cars. There is a reason why they don't. Water absortion is actually one of the important features of DOT fluids. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#67
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Chain waxing
On 2018-06-10 14:01, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, June 9, 2018 at 8:07:29 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-08 10:30, Duane wrote: On 08/06/2018 12:17 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-08 07:59, Duane wrote: On 08/06/2018 10:36 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-07 17:02, sms wrote: On 6/6/2018 7:35 AM, Joerg wrote: snip I clean my chain thoroughly using interdental toothbrushes. My wive found a brand at Costco that is more rigid than the usual ones so the job goes faster now. First used for my teeth, then later some day for a chain. Afterwards scrubbing with an old regular toothbrush, followed by a good wipe-down with Kleenex. Once the chain is really shiny I apply White Lightning Epic Ride. If you shake the bottle well the waxy stuff in it dissolves and thus gets onto the chain as well. I use a Q-Tip to dab it onlto the links, then gently wipe off any excess with a Kleenex. That way a road bike chain can run 150-250mi between cleanings depending on whether I ride more roads or more bike paths. Gets dirtier on roads. 40-50mi on the MTB, mostly on dirt trails. The upside is that this method does not require me to take the chain off the bike which I would really dread. OMG, is anyone really spending that much time on chain maintenance?! Get yourself a Park chain cleaner (or some other brand). Fill it with kerosene and run the chain through it. Repeat with clean solvent until the chain runs clean. Unless the chain is in the solvent, and moving, you won't get it clean on the inside. When it's clean, lubricate it with a foaming chain lube. So how long does that process take? And I mean with clean-up including the cleaning of the tools used. For most of those of us who are married clean-up is necessary, we can just leave the stuff sitting on some bench. The bike is already on the stand for washing. Last time I washed my road bike was ... ahm ... nineteen-sumpthin. The MTB doesn't get washed either, it just wouldn't make sense. The problems you have with equipment failure start to make sense... The BB would not have failed if I had hit it with the pressure washer after every ride. Yeah, right. I believe he uses a garden hose and not a 5000psi pressure washer. Ever watched the pros clean bikes (road and MTB)? Hose, suds, hose, etc., etc. Garden hoses are SOP. If your BB seals can't hack that, you need a different BB. I have seen high-pend MTB where they did not (!) provide a weep hole below the BB. Couldn't believe it at first. ... I have a pan in my shed with a bottle of degreaser (not kerosene but something biodegradable) and the Park chain cleaner in the pan. Takes a few minutes to fill up the tool and run the chain through it. The pan catches the slosh. I don't usually change the degreaser. A couple minutes in the chain cleaner works well enough for me. Hose out everything and let it dry while the bike is drying. Certainly takes less time than what you describe with the toothbrushes. Well, yeah, if you just put the bath, the pan and so on back on the shelf as is. Not gonna happen here. You missed the part about hose everything down and let it dry with the bike. Cleanup doesn't take any time. Hose down the bath container? That would get you into trouble with environmental watchdogs some day. He said it was biodegradable. I wonder what the Federales would have to say about that. Just say "I don't wash my bikes" and don't try to make it impossible. People do it all the time -- even married people and city folk. I never said that. I just indicated that I find washing an MTB not to be a very productive task. 10mi later it's dirty again so what is the point of washing it? -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#68
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Chain waxing
On 2018-06-11 05:13, Duane wrote:
On 09/06/2018 11:07 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-08 10:30, Duane wrote: On 08/06/2018 12:17 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-08 07:59, Duane wrote: On 08/06/2018 10:36 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-07 17:02, sms wrote: On 6/6/2018 7:35 AM, Joerg wrote: snip I clean my chain thoroughly using interdental toothbrushes. My wive found a brand at Costco that is more rigid than the usual ones so the job goes faster now. First used for my teeth, then later some day for a chain. Afterwards scrubbing with an old regular toothbrush, followed by a good wipe-down with Kleenex. Once the chain is really shiny I apply White Lightning Epic Ride. If you shake the bottle well the waxy stuff in it dissolves and thus gets onto the chain as well. I use a Q-Tip to dab it onlto the links, then gently wipe off any excess with a Kleenex. That way a road bike chain can run 150-250mi between cleanings depending on whether I ride more roads or more bike paths. Gets dirtier on roads. 40-50mi on the MTB, mostly on dirt trails. The upside is that this method does not require me to take the chain off the bike which I would really dread. OMG, is anyone really spending that much time on chain maintenance?! Get yourself a Park chain cleaner (or some other brand). Fill it with kerosene and run the chain through it. Repeat with clean solvent until the chain runs clean. Unless the chain is in the solvent, and moving, you won't get it clean on the inside. When it's clean, lubricate it with a foaming chain lube. So how long does that process take? And I mean with clean-up including the cleaning of the tools used. For most of those of us who are married clean-up is necessary, we can just leave the stuff sitting on some bench. The bike is already on the stand for washing. Last time I washed my road bike was ... ahm ... nineteen-sumpthin. The MTB doesn't get washed either, it just wouldn't make sense. The problems you have with equipment failure start to make sense... The BB would not have failed if I had hit it with the pressure washer after every ride. Yeah, right. WTF are you talking about? I don't wash my bike with a pressure washer and I don't wash my bike after every ride. I'm saying if you don't take care of your equipment and you seem to complain more than anyone of your equipment not lasting. Maybe you haven't noticed yet but I meticulously clean the chain and everything in the drive train every 50mi on the MTB and about every 200mi on the road bike. Afterwards there is a substantial amount of oily debris in the table on which the bikes standsi during this procedure. This debris isn't chucked into the landscape but properly disposed of via broom and trash can. Whether there are mud spatters under the downtube has no bearing whatsoever on the longevity of bike components. ... I have a pan in my shed with a bottle of degreaser (not kerosene but something biodegradable) and the Park chain cleaner in the pan. Takes a few minutes to fill up the tool and run the chain through it. The pan catches the slosh. I don't usually change the degreaser. A couple minutes in the chain cleaner works well enough for me. Hose out everything and let it dry while the bike is drying. Certainly takes less time than what you describe with the toothbrushes. Well, yeah, if you just put the bath, the pan and so on back on the shelf as is. Not gonna happen here. You missed the part about hose everything down and let it dry with the bike. Cleanup doesn't take any time. Hose down the bath container? That would get you into trouble with environmental watchdogs some day. What bath? Comprends-tu biodegradeable? I do not consider the black oily gunk coming off my chain, sprockets, rollers and chain rings to be good for the environment. [...] -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#69
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Chain waxing
On 11/06/2018 10:46 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-06-11 05:13, Duane wrote: On 09/06/2018 11:07 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-08 10:30, Duane wrote: On 08/06/2018 12:17 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-08 07:59, Duane wrote: On 08/06/2018 10:36 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-07 17:02, sms wrote: On 6/6/2018 7:35 AM, Joerg wrote: snip I clean my chain thoroughly using interdental toothbrushes. My wive found a brand at Costco that is more rigid than the usual ones so the job goes faster now. First used for my teeth, then later some day for a chain. Afterwards scrubbing with an old regular toothbrush, followed by a good wipe-down with Kleenex. Once the chain is really shiny I apply White Lightning Epic Ride. If you shake the bottle well the waxy stuff in it dissolves and thus gets onto the chain as well. I use a Q-Tip to dab it onlto the links, then gently wipe off any excess with a Kleenex. That way a road bike chain can run 150-250mi between cleanings depending on whether I ride more roads or more bike paths. Gets dirtier on roads. 40-50mi on the MTB, mostly on dirt trails. The upside is that this method does not require me to take the chain off the bike which I would really dread. OMG, is anyone really spending that much time on chain maintenance?! Get yourself a Park chain cleaner (or some other brand). Fill it with kerosene and run the chain through it. Repeat with clean solvent until the chain runs clean. Unless the chain is in the solvent, and moving, you won't get it clean on the inside. When it's clean, lubricate it with a foaming chain lube. So how long does that process take? And I mean with clean-up including the cleaning of the tools used. For most of those of us who are married clean-up is necessary, we can just leave the stuff sitting on some bench. The bike is already on the stand for washing. Last time I washed my road bike was ... ahm ... nineteen-sumpthin. The MTB doesn't get washed either, it just wouldn't make sense. The problems you have with equipment failure start to make sense... The BB would not have failed if I had hit it with the pressure washer after every ride. Yeah, right. WTF are you talking about?Â* I don't wash my bike with a pressure washer and I don't wash my bike after every ride. I'm saying if you don't take care of your equipment and you seem to complain more than anyone of your equipment not lasting. Maybe you haven't noticed yet but I meticulously clean the chain and everything in the drive train every 50mi on the MTB and about every 200mi on the road bike. Afterwards there is a substantial amount of oily debris in the table on which the bikes standsi during this procedure. This debris isn't chucked into the landscape but properly disposed of via broom and trash can. Properly disposed of how? The local landfill? You do understand that there are biodegradable options for chain oil right? Whether there are mud spatters under the downtube has no bearing whatsoever on the longevity of bike components. So after years ( 18 I think you said) of not washing your bike there is only some mud under the down tube? Amazing. Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* ... I have a pan in my shed with a bottle of degreaser (not kerosene but something biodegradable) and the Park chain cleaner in the pan.Â* Takes a few minutes to fill up the tool and run the chain through it.Â* The pan catches the slosh. I don't usually change the degreaser.Â* A couple minutes in the chain cleaner works well enough for me.Â* Hose out everything and let it dry while the bike is drying.Â* Certainly takes less time than what you describe with the toothbrushes. Well, yeah, if you just put the bath, the pan and so on back on the shelf as is. Not gonna happen here. You missed the part about hose everything down and let it dry with the bike.Â* Cleanup doesn't take any time. Hose down the bath container? That would get you into trouble with environmental watchdogs some day. What bath?Â* Comprends-tu biodegradeable? I do not consider the black oily gunk coming off my chain, sprockets, rollers and chain rings to be good for the environment. Maybe you should consider the possibility that not everyone has black oily gunk on their drive train. What do you use for the chain? Motor oil? |
#70
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Chain waxing
Joerg wrote:
:Water in DOT boils out. That's what happens in the open systems on motor :vehicles. Unfortunately bikes don't have those but if you were truly What motor vehicle has a brake system open to atmosphere? It ain't the fifties, man. They're sealed systems. Have been for decades. Brake fluid in motor vehicle systems is not recirculated much, and the the fluid that's in the calipers tends to stay in the calipers. It is not at all unusual to discover a caliper is full of water, while the fluid at the master cylinder is normal. -- sig 47 |
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