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Many many questions to Nimbus and Cokeur owners



 
 
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  #21  
Old February 9th 07, 09:47 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
phlegm
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Default Many many questions to Nimbus and Cokeur owners


2. I love my KH Freeride saddle combined with typical padded cycling
shorts.

3. A few months ago, after two years of knowing how to ride, I got my
first 36er, a fully upgraded Nimbus 36 from UDC, and I've never used
anything but 125s. I started with Bike Euro (steel) cranks, but am
currently using some aluminum cranks of unknown brand that I pulled off
of another uni. IMO, the aluminum cranks feel a lot better than the
steel.

I'm planning on trying out 140s once they arrive in the mail. The only
times I feel like I want longer than 125s is for long climbs (several
thousand feet of elevation gain) or steep climbs (10+ percent grades).
The brake takes care of the downhills.


--
phlegm
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  #22  
Old February 10th 07, 04:31 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
TonyMelton
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Default Many many questions to Nimbus and Cokeur owners


Bending and breaking cranks on a 36er is very uncommon, so I wouldn't
worry about that. On the SINZ tour I used 5 different crank lengths -
110mm, 114mm, 125mm, 140mm and 152mm. I even used three different
lengths in one day - 125mm for 20km of flat riding, 140mm up the Crown
Range hill climb, then 114mm for 40km of downhill. With cranks of
114mm, 125mm and 150mm lengths you'll be able to ride virtually any
paved road. I started the tour using 125mm as my all purpose crank
length, but found 114mm to be a better choice for general riding as it
let me spin faster and smoother. In general for distance riding you
want to use the shortest cranks you can get away with.


--
TonyMelton

Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.
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  #23  
Old February 10th 07, 09:26 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
peter.bier
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Default Many many questions to Nimbus and Cokeur owners


Danni wrote:

1. What cranks should I get?
Daniel




Bicycle euros are really nice. I have managed to bend cheapy cranks
during pure road riding when attacking steep hills. No problems with
bicycle euros though. Some people ride with Qu-ax aluminium cranks but
you need to make sure aluminium cranks are tightened up and checked
frequently. My pairs of aluminium cranks have always had a tendency to
come loose.



Danni wrote:

2. Would they fit the udc wide hub that is on the nimbus?
Daniel




Yep, no problem.


Danni wrote:

I was also wondering if you could have say three sets of cranks that
are different lengths and change them for varying terrain. Would it
take long and/or cause damage to the parts?
Daniel




A crank change takes about 5 minutes. That doesn't sound like much but
it is enough that people don't tend to change mid ride unless going
over 50km with varied enough terrain to warrant a change. For example
a ride with 40km of flat followed by 40km of hills could be worth
taking two cranksets for.

On longer rides I often carry a crank extractor and a spare pair of
cranks but I haven't ever needed them. The extra weight isn't too much
of a problem.

I tend to change cranks just before I ride if I think the current
length is unsuitable. For example on technical offroad courses I will
throw 170mm cranks on my 36". For non technical offroad I can get away
with 150s and the rest of the time I run with 125s.

As to damaging your gear with repeated crank changes: my advice would
be to have some decent quality allen key crank bolts to make sure they
can take multiple remoutings. I have seen a couple of people shear off
the head of their crank bolts from over tightening their cranks. I
think in both cases they were using aluminium cranks. This is very
annoying when it happens as you need to take a visit to a machinist to
extract the remaining bit of crank bolt.


--
peter.bier

-Peter Bier
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  #24  
Old February 10th 07, 10:26 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
kington99
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Default Many many questions to Nimbus and Cokeur owners


peter.bier wrote:
Bicycle euros are really nice. I have managed to bend cheapy cranks
during pure road riding when attacking steep hills. No problems with
bicycle euros though.




my nimbus 36 arrived with a pair of bicycle euro cranks that were
defective, they twisted signififcantly with the force of me hopping to
still stand at the traffic lights, upon inspection they were the worst
machineing i'd ever seen, their effective length was different by about
4 mm, they were different thicknesses, the thread cutting was awful.
Roger of course replaced the FOC and the neew bicycle euros were fine,
just might be something to watch out for, three must be a bad batch out
there.


--
kington99

Dave

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  #25  
Old February 10th 07, 10:43 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Hazmat
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Default Many many questions to Nimbus and Cokeur owners


kington99 wrote:
my nimbus 36 arrived with a pair of bicycle euro cranks that were
defective, they twisted signififcantly with the force of me hopping to
still stand at the traffic lights, upon inspection they were the worst
machineing i'd ever seen, their effective length was different by about
4 mm, they were different thicknesses, the thread cutting was awful.
Roger of course replaced the FOC and the neew bicycle euros were fine,
just might be something to watch out for, three must be a bad batch out
there.





ooohh that must have peed you off at some stage. But at least you fixed
the problem. So i guess it's a good thing. I'll keep a eye out. Thanks
for the tip buddy.


--
Hazmat

If you fail at unicycling or unicycle tricks, try again, when you try
again. You will never fail.
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  #26  
Old February 10th 07, 07:08 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
mornish
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Default Many many questions to Nimbus and Cokeur owners


Danni wrote:
After seeing all these posts about the new nimbus, and soiling many
pairs of pants, I have decided to cough up the cash and get myself one.
I have many questions before I buy:
*1. *What is the difference between a 36er and a coker?
*2.* What would you recommend for a saddle?
*3.* What crank length should I get, and what in your opinion are the
best cranks for this type of riding?
'This shows me the beast, and gives me a list of what I can get'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=962):
*4.* What is the difference between 12 and 14 gauge spokes, and which
ones would you recommend?
'5. Is the AT7 Touring Handle nice, and is it worth it?'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=973)
*5. *The Kris Holm geared hub might be coming out soon, would it be
impossibly difficult to switch the hub?
*6.* What is so special about this airfoil rim?

Thanks to all who answer my bombardment of questions! Hehehe





1. 36er is the thing, coker is a brand that makes some.

2. KH fusion gel(the older kind, not the 07 street) or the KH fusion
freeride.

3. I like 110s and 114s. anything longer than that is horrible(for
me(and I can't fit on it with 150s)

4. 14 gauge. lighter, nicer quality.

5. I'm not sure, sorry.

6. it's lighter, much stronger, and makes accelerating and decelerating
much easier and nice.


--
mornish

aim:kiloornish
email: mornish AT gmail DOT com

maxcarriere wrote:
nah, he just wants to buy the cranks to look at them and rub them on his
body..



muniaddict wrote:
does he have me confused with somebody who's actually good?



Julian wrote:
that guys good at not doing stuff.



Brian MacKenzie wrote:
you're gonna need a flux capacitor and a shot of plutonium

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  #27  
Old February 10th 07, 10:48 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Danni
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Posts: 938
Default Many many questions to Nimbus and Cokeur owners


Great! I was thinking of getting 'These'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=171) in 150mm. Is this
a bad idea? Is there something better out there? What good quality
cranks are 125s?

Thanks guys!


--
Danni

leo wrote:
Without cocks you wouldn't even have a family forum.



'*Ha Ha haaaaa*' (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmXflM7xVLs)'!'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54347)
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  #28  
Old February 11th 07, 01:46 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
mornish
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Posts: 2,497
Default Many many questions to Nimbus and Cokeur owners


Danni wrote:
Great! I was thinking of getting 'These'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=171) in 150mm. Is this
a bad idea? Is there something better out there? What good quality
cranks are 125s?

Thanks guys!





I've heard that Dotek cranks are good. I think that the longest they
make is 125.

Maestro - Please don't flame me.


--
mornish

aim:kiloornish
email: mornish AT gmail DOT com

maxcarriere wrote:
nah, he just wants to buy the cranks to look at them and rub them on his
body..



muniaddict wrote:
does he have me confused with somebody who's actually good?



Julian wrote:
that guys good at not doing stuff.



Brian MacKenzie wrote:
you're gonna need a flux capacitor and a shot of plutonium

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  #29  
Old February 11th 07, 01:52 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Hazmat
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Default Many many questions to Nimbus and Cokeur owners


Well my friend gave me his custom made 100s to use on my coker. But i
suggest you *_DON'T_* use them unless you want to
get some serious speed.

BTW i just cracked my 700th post


--
Hazmat

If you fail at unicycling or unicycle tricks, try again, when you try
again. You will never fail.
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  #30  
Old February 11th 07, 01:58 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Chris.James
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Default Many many questions to Nimbus and Cokeur owners


no that was 699. to make this an actual help to society and help you get
to your 700th post, how do those ride?


--
Chris.James

"Thats my favorite thing about unicycling, I can eat oreos while
riding!" ~Me

"Darwin was once of the greatest minds of our time!...Then why is he
making out with Satan?" ~The Simpsons

"I'm riding a unicycle with my pants down...this should be every boy's
dream!"~Bart Simpson
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