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headset adjustment problem
Recently I had to replace a threaded fork, which I did with the help of a
bike mechanic. But I can't quite seem to get it perfect. If I tighten the headset too loosely, the fork wobbles. If i just tighten the headset enough to eliminate the wobble, then the headset will be a bit too tight and the fork won't rotate as freely as I would like- for example I can't ride "no hands". It's either one or the other, no matter what I do. My mechanic had me replace the bearings container with just packed bearings in grease (with 2 removed). Could this be making the difference? Is there anything else I should do? |
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#2
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headset adjustment problem
Gary Smiley writes:
Recently I had to replace a threaded fork, which I did with the help of a bike mechanic. But I can't quite seem to get it perfect. If I tighten the headset too loosely, the fork wobbles. If i just tighten the headset enough to eliminate the wobble, then the headset will be a bit too tight and the fork won't rotate as freely as I would like- for example I can't ride "no hands". It's either one or the other, no matter what I do. My mechanic had me replace the bearings container with just packed bearings in grease (with 2 removed). Could this be making the difference? Is there anything else I should do? Are the bearing balls in a cage? If not, it sounds like classic "one ball or more up on the ledge" aka out of the race and up on the rim. Put in a 20 ball cage toss the thing together (which is easy with caged balls) and adjust. To test for clearance, bounce the front wheel on the ground and listen for bearing chatter. When bearing chatter is gone, put the bicycle on your shoulder with the front wheel hanging almost on its neutral axis (does not want to flop to the side OR straight ahead, and tilt the frame from side to side. The steering should coast to a stop rather than with a slow shuddering indexed stop. After you've done all that and got it right, you'll understand why I believe threadless steer tubes are far better fork mounts. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/t...s-headset.html Jobst Brandt |
#3
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headset adjustment problem
On Tue, 23 Aug 2005 21:53:08 -0400, Gary Smiley wrote:
Recently I had to replace a threaded fork, which I did with the help of a bike mechanic. But I can't quite seem to get it perfect. If I tighten the headset too loosely, the fork wobbles. If i just tighten the headset enough to eliminate the wobble, then the headset will be a bit too tight and the fork won't rotate as freely as I would like- for example I can't ride "no hands". It's either one or the other, no matter what I do. Sounds like the crown race is not properly seated (I assume that you used the old headset. If not, it could be any of the pressed races). It could be that the fork needs to be prepped, as well, so that the race can seat properly. My mechanic had me replace the bearings container with just packed bearings in grease (with 2 removed). 2 removed? You mean, fewer bearings than were in the retainer? I would fit in as many bearings as you can without binding. But removing the retainer per se is not a problem. -- David L. Johnson __o | And though I have the gift of prophecy, and understand all _`\(,_ | mysteries, and all knowledge; and though I have all faith, so (_)/ (_) | that I could remove mountains, and have not charity, I am nothing. [1 Corinth. 13:2] |
#4
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headset adjustment problem
yes-get those bearings in there. this is a no spin application at a
slow speed-the bearings can sort themselves out without hi speed impact try searching to "DIY Headset in tech archives. i do not know how to adjust a headset-i have ritchey logics on a threaded stem not according to the instructions i read. my best results come from tightnesses that exceed the instructions. the forks turning feel is STIFF!! but there's no wheel on the fork. i blue eom loctite everything with a clean surface. if your race is worn elliptically-and a wear groove into the cone surface is probabbbly elliptical-what else would you expect? then turning into the tight tolerance from an adjustment on the larger tolerance forces the mechanism apart. the other deal is you have a retainer in upside down or maybe the wrong size bearings. if its an old bike give up on it and install a chris king, |
#5
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headset adjustment problem
Gary Smiley wrote:
Recently I had to replace a threaded fork, which I did with the help of a bike mechanic. But I can't quite seem to get it perfect. If I tighten the headset too loosely, the fork wobbles. If i just tighten the headset enough to eliminate the wobble, then the headset will be a bit too tight and the fork won't rotate as freely as I would like- for example I can't ride "no hands". It's either one or the other, no matter what I do. My mechanic had me replace the bearings container with just packed bearings in grease (with 2 removed). Could this be making the difference? Is there anything else I should do? Get the headtube faces checked out. These are exactly the symptoms of non-parallel faces, and it's quick to rectify in a decent shop. |
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