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#11
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learn by destroying
On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 10:16:38 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 12/16/2017 9:14 AM, AMuzi wrote: On 12/16/2017 5:12 AM, John B. wrote: Re "Dead Blow Hammers". For work in the shop we used to cast hammer heads out of commercially pure lead. As we had the mold we used to recast the hammers when the heads got badly banged up. Surprising how little actual lead was lost in use. "as we had the mold". I cast my lead hammer in a steel can with a piece of water pipe handle stuck into the side of it. Primitive but functional. Maybe you should consider purchasing a proper mold? http://www.cookhammer.com/make.html http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a4571/4329523/ http://www.grahamtool.com/leadhammermoldsets.aspx :-) I've got exactly the same model hanging on my workshop pegboard wall. Our son cast it in metal shop during middle school. (I bet they're not allowed to do that now.) OSHA allows lead casting, but requires considerable safety equipment and proper procedures. Dealing with the fumes and the waste (dross) are the main problems: https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/leadsmelter/refiningcasting/casting.html "Any tool within reach can be used as a hammer" (I think I said that long ago while working under my car). -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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#12
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learn by destroying
On 12/16/2017 2:14 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 10:16:38 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 12/16/2017 9:14 AM, AMuzi wrote: I cast my lead hammer in a steel can with a piece of water pipe handle stuck into the side of it. :-) I've got exactly the same model hanging on my workshop pegboard wall. Our son cast it in metal shop during middle school. (I bet they're not allowed to do that now.) OSHA allows lead casting, but requires considerable safety equipment and proper procedures. Dealing with the fumes and the waste (dross) are the main problems: https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/leadsmelter/refiningcasting/casting.html I don't doubt OSHA allows lead casting when properly done. I doubt the local school allows it, though. I happen to work on a local committee with a woman who's ex-president of, and still a member of, the school board. She was behind a policy to forbid volunteers using loppers to clear tree branches that were blocking trails in our forest preserve. She's worried about liability. My guess is that she won't allow lead in any form inside any school building. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#13
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learn by destroying
On 12/16/2017 1:14 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 10:16:38 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 12/16/2017 9:14 AM, AMuzi wrote: On 12/16/2017 5:12 AM, John B. wrote: Re "Dead Blow Hammers". For work in the shop we used to cast hammer heads out of commercially pure lead. As we had the mold we used to recast the hammers when the heads got badly banged up. Surprising how little actual lead was lost in use. "as we had the mold". I cast my lead hammer in a steel can with a piece of water pipe handle stuck into the side of it. Primitive but functional. Maybe you should consider purchasing a proper mold? http://www.cookhammer.com/make.html http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a4571/4329523/ http://www.grahamtool.com/leadhammermoldsets.aspx :-) I've got exactly the same model hanging on my workshop pegboard wall. Our son cast it in metal shop during middle school. (I bet they're not allowed to do that now.) OSHA allows lead casting, but requires considerable safety equipment and proper procedures. Dealing with the fumes and the waste (dross) are the main problems: https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/leadsmelter/refiningcasting/casting.html "Any tool within reach can be used as a hammer" (I think I said that long ago while working under my car). I was working in rented space which had been a print shop at one time and there were piles of linotype in all the corners. My quickly cast tool got the spinners on and off my MG for many years: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/media/...amwspic1_2.jpg -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#14
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learn by destroying
On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 08:14:37 -0600, AMuzi wrote:
On 12/16/2017 5:12 AM, John B. wrote: On Fri, 15 Dec 2017 18:38:09 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Thu, 14 Dec 2017 19:23:37 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote: Once there was a guy who had a bounce free hammer and I asked how it worked. He explained the little balls going up and down. I was terribly impressed by this. But then one day I used one myself and slammed it open and could see it all first hand. It was still a good answer but quite possibly that's the way he had found out as well. Somehow took the magic out of it. Perhaps you are thinking of a "dead blow hammer"? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_blow_hammer https://www.google.com/search?q=dead+blow+hammer&tbm=isch The good ones are full of tiny steel balls. The cheap junk uses sand. "Learn by Destroying(tm)" also means that you really don't understand how something works until you've broken it, taken it apart, and fixed it. I've learned more from things I've broken than from playing with the pretty knobs, reading the instructions, or using it for its intended purpose. Re "Dead Blow Hammers". For work in the shop we used to cast hammer heads out of commercially pure lead. As we had the mold we used to recast the hammers when the heads got badly banged up. Surprising how little actual lead was lost in use. As for Learning by destroying". After a number of years of replacing bent, busted and broke eventually the penny will drop.... Read the F...ing Manual. First! -- Cheers, John B. "as we had the mold". I cast my lead hammer in a steel can with a piece of water pipe handle stuck into the side of it. Totally non-classy. What we did was make a hinged mold(s) which had a circular cutout for the handles. Handles, from memory, were probably 14 - 15" long and had a 1/4" pin pressed through one end protruding maybe a quarter of an inch on each side. Stick the handle in the mold, close the handle, pour full of lead, go on to the next one. We used to cast up probably 20, or so at a time and just about every machine had one somewhere close - that shop chief got absolutely frantic if he saw a steel hammer even close to any of the machines :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
#15
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learn by destroying
On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 10:45:27 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 18:12:57 +0700, John B. wrote: On Fri, 15 Dec 2017 18:38:09 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Thu, 14 Dec 2017 19:23:37 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote: Once there was a guy who had a bounce free hammer and I asked how it worked. He explained the little balls going up and down. I was terribly impressed by this. But then one day I used one myself and slammed it open and could see it all first hand. It was still a good answer but quite possibly that's the way he had found out as well. Somehow took the magic out of it. Perhaps you are thinking of a "dead blow hammer"? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_blow_hammer https://www.google.com/search?q=dead+blow+hammer&tbm=isch The good ones are full of tiny steel balls. The cheap junk uses sand. "Learn by Destroying(tm)" also means that you really don't understand how something works until you've broken it, taken it apart, and fixed it. I've learned more from things I've broken than from playing with the pretty knobs, reading the instructions, or using it for its intended purpose. Re "Dead Blow Hammers". For work in the shop we used to cast hammer heads out of commercially pure lead. As we had the mold we used to recast the hammers when the heads got badly banged up. Surprising how little actual lead was lost in use. Or, you can make your own: https://i.pinimg.com/736x/ae/c4/b3/aec4b3b588620dcdf520590ffce00222--hammer-forging-war-hammer-weapons.jpg When I was an impoverished student, I used one similar to this that was lead fishing weights, larger size pipe, plastic caps, and a wood handle. When it disappeared, I found a bronze hammer, which seemed to work better than a lead hammer. I didn't have the facilities to recast a lead hammer so brass worked well enough. Years later, the plastic shot/sand filled hammers appeared, so I bought one of those and retired the bronze hammer. When someone stole it, I replaced it with a steel mallet with leather facing and a cheap soft face (plastic) hammer with replaceable facing for the light pounding: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=19377956&KPID=15216355 As for Learning by destroying". After a number of years of replacing bent, busted and broke eventually the penny will drop.... Read the F...ing Manual. First! Never. I consider reading the manual a sign of weakness. If my customers see me reading the manual, they would usually ask "do you know what you're doing?" or "am I paying you to read this?" I reserve reading the manual for after I'm finished, to see what I may have missed, or when I get into trouble. Besides, if the product were any good, it wouldn't need a manual. I've never really found a place where a plastic faced hammer really fit. If you are just trying to get the damned thing apart a 2 lb steel hammer works nicely. If you don't want to make sparks then the brass hammer is nice. Wazza for da plastic :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
#16
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learn by destroying
On Sun, 17 Dec 2017 11:46:11 +0700, John B.
wrote: I've never really found a place where a plastic faced hammer really fit. If you are just trying to get the damned thing apart a 2 lb steel hammer works nicely. If you don't want to make sparks then the brass hammer is nice. Wazza for da plastic :-) I mostly use a plastic face hammer mostly for banging on painted surfaces. In the bad old days of early IBM PC clones (1980's), the sheet metal cases were badly made and barely fit together. A plastic hammer was quite handy for assembling or disassembling the case with a minimum of damage to the paint. Of course, I never used it if there was a hard disk drive installed, which could not tolerated the pounding. I've also used it for banging on stuck air and water valves, rusted components, tubular display tents, and cracking the case on solvent welded or CA glued power supplies. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#17
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learn by destroying
On 12/17/2017 9:29 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 17 Dec 2017 11:46:11 +0700, John B. wrote: I've never really found a place where a plastic faced hammer really fit. If you are just trying to get the damned thing apart a 2 lb steel hammer works nicely. If you don't want to make sparks then the brass hammer is nice. Wazza for da plastic :-) I mostly use a plastic face hammer mostly for banging on painted surfaces. In the bad old days of early IBM PC clones (1980's), the sheet metal cases were badly made and barely fit together. A plastic hammer was quite handy for assembling or disassembling the case with a minimum of damage to the paint. Of course, I never used it if there was a hard disk drive installed, which could not tolerated the pounding. I've also used it for banging on stuck air and water valves, rusted components, tubular display tents, and cracking the case on solvent welded or CA glued power supplies. "If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway." |
#18
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learn by destroying
John B. wrote:
:I've never really found a place where a plastic faced hammer really :fit. If you are just trying to get the damned thing apart a 2 lb steel :hammer works nicely. If you don't want to make sparks then the brass :hammer is nice. :Wazza for da plastic :-) Plastic faced hammers are useful for stricking all sorts of finished parts. They dont' scratch, and they're less likely to dent a piece if you hit it with the edge ofthe hammer. I've used them on paint lids, copper pipe fittings, metal electrical boxes, and a ratchet. That's just the last couple of days. Lots of uses on cars, too. -- sig 78 |
#19
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learn by destroying
On Sun, 17 Dec 2017 09:29:10 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: On Sun, 17 Dec 2017 11:46:11 +0700, John B. wrote: I've never really found a place where a plastic faced hammer really fit. If you are just trying to get the damned thing apart a 2 lb steel hammer works nicely. If you don't want to make sparks then the brass hammer is nice. Wazza for da plastic :-) I mostly use a plastic face hammer mostly for banging on painted surfaces. In the bad old days of early IBM PC clones (1980's), the sheet metal cases were badly made and barely fit together. A plastic hammer was quite handy for assembling or disassembling the case with a minimum of damage to the paint. Of course, I never used it if there was a hard disk drive installed, which could not tolerated the pounding. I've also used it for banging on stuck air and water valves, rusted components, tubular display tents, and cracking the case on solvent welded or CA glued power supplies. You are right. As I almost never bang on painted surfaces, I had forgotten that. Re stuck stuff, I use a hard face hammer and do my best to control the force of the blow. The theory being that a bit of a shock will tend to loosen things better then a softer blow. -- Cheers, John B. |
#20
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learn by destroying
What is the difference tween a mallet n a hammer
https://www.google.com/search?q=hard...=360&bih =560 round mallets are AAA Keep an eye out for hard maple skids Skin with ax I've grown found of an 11 pound short handle engineers hammer ..for tap taping...very effective...easy nuff place soft wood under For years looked a dead hit plastic hammers n remain dubious even while vinyl zed yawl ever throw up in Walmart looming over oil based products ? |
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