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Servicing Dura Ace Freewheel
I have this MF-7400 freewheel - very nice. It kind of stuck the other day, didn't want to freewheel, and was turning the cogs when rolling the wheel forward. It came loose and started ratcheting again when I put a foot on the pedal and rolled the wheel, but it had been stuck pretty good and didn't want to come loose with gentle hand cranking. Today I got two chain-whips together and removed the cogs. There are two holes, 180 degrees apart, in the freewheel body, which I think are for injecting oil. I'm thinking I can use one of those little plastic syringes to put the oil in the hole. The freewheel seems to be in good shape, and has some oil in it, but feels and sounds a little dry and gritty. It's been running in the rain quite a bit lately. Question: Do I want to soak or flush it first with like mineral spirits, then let it dry and *then* squirt motor oil into those holes? Or do I just start putting oil into it and flush it with that? Oh yeah, one other question: I imagine I should grease in between the cogs and splines and spacers and threads and all that when I put it back together? |
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Servicing Dura Ace Freewheel
On Feb 28, 7:47 pm, Dan O wrote:
Question: Do I want to soak or flush it first with like mineral spirits, then let it dry and *then* squirt motor oil into those holes? Yes. I would also warm it up once dry prior to adding oil. It will help it flow into the nooks and crevices better, and might even flush out a little more dirt. Oh yeah, one other question: I imagine I should grease in between the cogs and splines and spacers and threads and all that when I put it back together? It makes taking it apart again much easier, but it's not required. I would though. Chris |
#3
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Servicing Dura Ace Freewheel
On Feb 28, 8:47*pm, Dan O wrote:
I have this MF-7400 freewheel - very nice. *It kind of stuck the other day, didn't want to freewheel, and was turning the cogs when rolling the wheel forward. *It came loose and started ratcheting again when I put a foot on the pedal and rolled the wheel, but it had been stuck pretty good and didn't want to come loose with gentle hand cranking. Today I got two chain-whips together and removed the cogs. *There are two holes, 180 degrees apart, in the freewheel body, which I think are for injecting oil. *I'm thinking I can use one of those little plastic syringes to put the oil in the hole. The freewheel seems to be in good shape, and has some oil in it, but feels and sounds a little dry and gritty. *It's been running in the rain quite a bit lately. Question: *Do I want to soak or flush it first with like mineral spirits, then let it dry and *then* squirt motor oil into those holes? *Or do I just start putting oil into it and flush it with that? Flush it, let it dry, add oil. I use Mobil One auto synthetic oil. Cheap and it doesn't get thick in the cold. Oh yeah, one other question: *I imagine I should grease in between the cogs and splines and spacers and threads and all that when I put it back together? Wouldn't hurt, may prevent some creaking. |
#4
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Servicing Dura Ace Freewheel
Dan O wrote:
I have this MF-7400 freewheel - very nice. It kind of stuck the other day, didn't want to freewheel, and was turning the cogs when rolling the wheel forward. It came loose and started ratcheting again when I put a foot on the pedal and rolled the wheel, but it had been stuck pretty good and didn't want to come loose with gentle hand cranking. Today I got two chain-whips together and removed the cogs. There are two holes, 180 degrees apart, in the freewheel body, which I think are for injecting oil. I'm thinking I can use one of those little plastic syringes to put the oil in the hole. The freewheel seems to be in good shape, and has some oil in it, but feels and sounds a little dry and gritty. It's been running in the rain quite a bit lately. Question: Do I want to soak or flush it first with like mineral spirits, then let it dry and *then* squirt motor oil into those holes? Or do I just start putting oil into it and flush it with that? Oh yeah, one other question: I imagine I should grease in between the cogs and splines and spacers and threads and all that when I put it back together? Yes, use real oil. Yes, through the oil ports is the fastest way on that one. Continue oiling and spinning in your hand until no more crud/rust/swarf flows out. No, do not use a volatile solvent. It will remove any remaining corrosion protection from the pawl springs. Yes, do lubricate cogs during assembly if you want to get it apart later! -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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Servicing Dura Ace Freewheel
On Feb 28, 9:47 pm, Dan O wrote:
I have this MF-7400 freewheel - very nice. It kind of stuck the other day, didn't want to freewheel, and was turning the cogs when rolling the wheel forward. It came loose and started ratcheting again when I put a foot on the pedal and rolled the wheel, but it had been stuck pretty good and didn't want to come loose with gentle hand cranking. Today I got two chain-whips together and removed the cogs. There are two holes, 180 degrees apart, in the freewheel body, which I think are for injecting oil. I'm thinking I can use one of those little plastic syringes to put the oil in the hole. The freewheel seems to be in good shape, and has some oil in it, but feels and sounds a little dry and gritty. It's been running in the rain quite a bit lately. Question: Do I want to soak or flush it first with like mineral spirits, then let it dry and *then* squirt motor oil into those holes? Or do I just start putting oil into it and flush it with that? I've always just dripped oil through them while spinning. Motor oil has some detergents in it and will get the gunk out. Get whichever one you like the smell of best. I'm a Castrol kinda guy. Oh yeah, one other question: I imagine I should grease in between the cogs and splines and spacers and threads and all that when I put it back together? Always good to do. Again, make sure to use a grease that compliments your natural fragrance. I like the burly man smell of black grease. |
#6
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Servicing Dura Ace Freewheel
On Mar 1, 7:34 pm, landotter wrote:
On Feb 28, 9:47 pm, Dan O wrote: I have this MF-7400 freewheel - very nice. It kind of stuck the other day, didn't want to freewheel, and was turning the cogs when rolling the wheel forward. It came loose and started ratcheting again when I put a foot on the pedal and rolled the wheel, but it had been stuck pretty good and didn't want to come loose with gentle hand cranking. Today I got two chain-whips together and removed the cogs. There are two holes, 180 degrees apart, in the freewheel body, which I think are for injecting oil. I'm thinking I can use one of those little plastic syringes to put the oil in the hole. The freewheel seems to be in good shape, and has some oil in it, but feels and sounds a little dry and gritty. It's been running in the rain quite a bit lately. Question: Do I want to soak or flush it first with like mineral spirits, then let it dry and *then* squirt motor oil into those holes? Or do I just start putting oil into it and flush it with that? I've always just dripped oil through them while spinning. Motor oil has some detergents in it and will get the gunk out. Get whichever one you like the smell of best. I'm a Castrol kinda guy. I used Castrol 20-50 - that's what I had laying around. Oh yeah, one other question: I imagine I should grease in between the cogs and splines and spacers and threads and all that when I put it back together? Always good to do. Again, make sure to use a grease that compliments your natural fragrance. I like the burly man smell of black grease. I am still working on that tube of Lubri-Matic Marine Corrosion Control and Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease. Thanks a bunch to all for the excellent advice! (I'll go tomorrow to the LBS and look for that "Shimano TL-PD40 SPD Clipless Pedal Axle Removal Tool".) Forecast is rain, rain, and more rain. |
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