Touring bike selection

Hi, I'm currently planning a bike trip this May to June through France
and Italy. I want to camp while travelling so this means I will be
travelling quite heavy (stove, tent, sleeping bag, etc.). I want to
go about 100 km a day although it's possible that somedays I could go
further. The majority of my biking experience to date is on a
triathlon bike. I know that touring is a slower and steady trip but I
enjoy speed on a bike and so I'm hesitant to use a mountain bike.
However, in July I'm planning on going to Iceland and I'll probably
bring the bike I end up buying which means getting something a little
more solid. If anyone has a recommendation on a faster bike that can
endure gravel as well I would love to hear it.

Currently I have been recommended the Devinci Caribou, but apparently
it is limited to the skinnier tires and can't be fitted with knobby
tires, etc. The other Devinci bike I was recommended was the
Amsterdam, which is a performance hybrid. I've seen a few Cannondale
models, and the Trek 520 and XO and I am uncertain which of these (or
others) would be optimal for the uses I want.

Also, regarding the use of straight vs. drop-down, does anyone who has
toured out there have a suggestion on what is preferable. I realize
drop-down has more options on hand positions, but I've also heard most
people with drop-downs just end up keeping there hands positioned as
if they were straight bars.

Any advice that touring bikers have to share would be much
appreciated. Thanks a lot. Matt,

"Matt Murphy" wrote in message
om...
Hi, I'm currently planning a bike trip this May to June through France
and Italy. I want to camp while travelling so this means I will be
travelling quite heavy (stove, tent, sleeping bag, etc.). I want to
go about 100 km a day although it's possible that somedays I could go
further. The majority of my biking experience to date is on a
triathlon bike. I know that touring is a slower and steady trip but I
enjoy speed on a bike and so I'm hesitant to use a mountain bike.
However, in July I'm planning on going to Iceland and I'll probably
bring the bike I end up buying which means getting something a little
more solid. If anyone has a recommendation on a faster bike that can
endure gravel as well I would love to hear it.

Currently I have been recommended the Devinci Caribou, but apparently
it is limited to the skinnier tires and can't be fitted with knobby
tires, etc. The other Devinci bike I was recommended was the
Amsterdam, which is a performance hybrid. I've seen a few Cannondale
models, and the Trek 520 and XO and I am uncertain which of these (or
others) would be optimal for the uses I want.

Also, regarding the use of straight vs. drop-down, does anyone who has
toured out there have a suggestion on what is preferable. I realize
drop-down has more options on hand positions, but I've also heard most
people with drop-downs just end up keeping there hands positioned as
if they were straight bars.

Any advice that touring bikers have to share would be much
appreciated. Thanks a lot. Matt,

A few bikes you may want to look at:

Rivendell Romulus:
http://www.rivbike.com/html/bikes_romulusframes.html

Rivendell Atlantis:
http://www.rivbike.com/html/bikes_atlantisframes.html

Bruce Gordon's BLT:
http://www.bgcycles.com/blt.html

(Matt Murphy) writes:

Hi, I'm currently planning a bike trip this May to June through
France and Italy. I want to camp while travelling so this means I
will be travelling quite heavy (stove, tent, sleeping bag, etc.). I
want to go about 100 km a day although it's possible that somedays I
could go further.

Conceivably much further, unless you're getting off the bike
frequently to sight-see. After all, on tour you may ride 10 hours a
day quite frequently, and at a very modest average of 15 km/h you can
still cover 150 km in a day.

Have you checked out the Trento Bike Pages? There is a wealth of
information about touring- IMHO the best starting point for touring
on the Web:

http://www-math.science.unitn.it/Bike

The majority of my biking experience to date is on a triathlon bike.
I know that touring is a slower and steady trip but I enjoy speed on
a bike and so I'm hesitant to use a mountain bike.

Why would you use a mountain bike for touring? Use a touring bike;
there are many to choose from and a Google search will help you find
them. IMHO your best starting point for loaded touring like this is
http://www.bgcycles.com which is Bruce Gordon.

However, in July I'm planning on going to Iceland and I'll probably
bring the bike I end up buying which means getting something a
little more solid. If anyone has a recommendation on a faster bike
that can endure gravel as well I would love to hear it.

Friends of mine have done Iceland. Twice. "Gravel" is a generous
description for the roads covered in golf-ball to tennis-ball-sized
rocks. They found much of the roads unrideable as a result, not to
mention the winds. In this case a mountain bike or a bike that will
take 40+ mm tires would be helpful- again, Bruce Gordon is the guy to
go to, IMHO.

Currently I have been recommended the Devinci Caribou, but
apparently it is limited to the skinnier tires and can't be fitted
with knobby tires, etc. The other Devinci bike I was recommended
was the Amsterdam, which is a performance hybrid. I've seen a few
Cannondale models, and the Trek 520 and XO and I am uncertain which
of these (or others) would be optimal for the uses I want.

From your limited description, it's hard to say what might be best to
suit you. You can tour the French and Italian Alps on a "race" bike
with a saddlebag quite well.

Also, regarding the use of straight vs. drop-down, does anyone who
has toured out there have a suggestion on what is preferable. I
realize drop-down has more options on hand positions, but I've also
heard most people with drop-downs just end up keeping there hands
positioned as if they were straight bars.

Then they're not making use of their equipment for one reason or
another. IMHO the most common being that their drop bars are in the
usual road racer position- low and far away. If the bars are up high
enough, all positions are comfortable and useful (although not
particularly aero, which is an issue for road racers). It's odd,
probably less than 1% of bicyclists race, yet racing bikes for road
and dirt dominate the market perception of cycling.

Personally, I hate flat bars with a passion. My hands go numb almost
immediately and having only one position (unless bar ends are added)
annoys me. When there's a stiff headwind, I like to get down in the
drops and ya can't do that with flat bars. I was out for a calm,
quite ride today with 30+ mph winds out of the north. I spotted a
large club ride (75+ riders) broken up into groups, and noticed how
unhappy the riders on flat bars looked as they struggled much harder
into the wind than the riders with drop bars. On days like that,
flat bars are a major disadvantage. OTOH, some people just prefer
flat bars, or have back or other problems that necessitate their use.

Matt,

Try this website. Great information. Great Organization.

http://www.adventurecycling.org

This one might help too.

http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/

Have a great trip!


(Matt Murphy) wrote in message . com...
Hi, I'm currently planning a bike trip this May to June through France
and Italy. I want to camp while travelling so this means I will be
travelling quite heavy (stove, tent, sleeping bag, etc.). I want to
go about 100 km a day although it's possible that somedays I could go
further. The majority of my biking experience to date is on a
triathlon bike. I know that touring is a slower and steady trip but I
enjoy speed on a bike and so I'm hesitant to use a mountain bike.
However, in July I'm planning on going to Iceland and I'll probably
bring the bike I end up buying which means getting something a little
more solid. If anyone has a recommendation on a faster bike that can
endure gravel as well I would love to hear it.

Currently I have been recommended the Devinci Caribou, but apparently
it is limited to the skinnier tires and can't be fitted with knobby
tires, etc. The other Devinci bike I was recommended was the
Amsterdam, which is a performance hybrid. I've seen a few Cannondale
models, and the Trek 520 and XO and I am uncertain which of these (or
others) would be optimal for the uses I want.

Also, regarding the use of straight vs. drop-down, does anyone who has
toured out there have a suggestion on what is preferable. I realize
drop-down has more options on hand positions, but I've also heard most
people with drop-downs just end up keeping there hands positioned as
if they were straight bars.

Any advice that touring bikers have to share would be much
appreciated. Thanks a lot. Matt,

(Matt Murphy) wrote in message . com...

snip

Currently I have been recommended the Devinci Caribou, but apparently
it is limited to the skinnier tires and can't be fitted with knobby
tires, etc. The other Devinci bike I was recommended was the
Amsterdam, which is a performance hybrid. I've seen a few Cannondale
models, and the Trek 520 and XO and I am uncertain which of these (or
others) would be optimal for the uses I want.

Also, regarding the use of straight vs. drop-down, does anyone who has
toured out there have a suggestion on what is preferable. I realize
drop-down has more options on hand positions, but I've also heard most
people with drop-downs just end up keeping there hands positioned as
if they were straight bars.

Neither of the Devinci models you mention are suitable for touring.

Take a look at the Bicycle Recommendation Short List, at
"http://nordicgroup.us/bikerec" and click on touring.

Not sure how much money you're planning to spend here, but the
Koga-Miyata is awesome.

I'd avoid the Trek 520 due to the threadless headset. I'd avoid the
Cannondale because you don't want an aluminum frame if you want
something solid for loaded touring.

You're correct about the drop versus upright bars. Yesterday I made a
point of noticing all the road bikers out on a popular bicycling road
near me (Foothill Expressway), and even the roadies mostly keep their
hands positioned as if they were straight bars. I toured on a classic
touring bicycle and I'm sure that I rarely was in the drop position;
it's uncomfortable on your neck. Amusingly, there was once an
accessory that solved this problem; a wide mirror that went between
the handlebar sides, and acted kind of as periscope.

Read the section on touring bicycles on
"http://nordicgroup.us/bikerec"

"Touring bikes will have a full complement of braze-ons for racks,
bottles, and pumps. Most touring bicycles have chromolloy steel frames
for durability (aluminum frames won't stand up to the rigors of fully
loaded touring). Avoid threadless headsets on touring bicycles, but
this is not that hard to do, as most touring bicycles still use quill
headsets (alas, the classic Trek 520 went over to the dark side, as
did the REI Novara Randonee). Touring bicycles will usually have 40
spoke rear wheels (sometimes 48 spoke wheels), to stand up to the
heavier loads placed on them by loaded panniers."

Very good advice. Especially since I wrote it.

"bfd" wrote in message link.net...
"Matt Murphy" wrote in message
om...

more solid. If anyone has a recommendation on a faster bike that can
endure gravel as well I would love to hear it.

A few bikes you may want to look at:

Rivendell Romulus:
http://www.rivbike.com/html/bikes_romulusframes.html

Rivendell Atlantis:
http://www.rivbike.com/html/bikes_atlantisframes.html

Bruce Gordon's BLT:
http://www.bgcycles.com/blt.html

The Rivendell's are a good choice for what he wants, "a faster bike
that can endure gravel." The Romulus is a total classic, and at $1450
is fairly priced, though that doesn't include saddle or pedals. I'm
not a fan on bar-end shifters, and Shimano 105 brifters add $250 if
the bike shop puts them on, $150 if you do it yourself.

For a true touring bicycle, I'd opt for the Koga-Miyata over the BLT,
because by the time you add all the accessories to a BLT, that come
standard with the the Koga-Miyata Randonneur, you're at about the same
price and the Randonneur is more suitable for touring. The Koga-Miyata
Randonneur is heavy, but much of that is due to the racks, kickstand,
lock, dynamo hub, lights, cages, etc., which are all included, and are
included in the total weight. The Randonneur has a lugged frame and a
40 spoke rear wheel; the BLT has neither.

(Steven Scharf) wrote in
om:

Read the section on touring bicycles on
"http://nordicgroup.us/bikerec"

snip

Avoid threadless headsets on touring bicycles, but this is not that
hard to do, as most touring bicycles still use quill headsets (alas,
the classic Trek 520 went over to the dark side, as did the REI
Novara Randonee).

Why should one avoid threadless headsets on a touring bike? Will the
weight of the front rack and panniers cause problems?

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

In article ,
david moore wrote:
(Steven Scharf) wrote in
. com:

Read the section on touring bicycles on
"http://nordicgroup.us/bikerec"

snip

Avoid threadless headsets on touring bicycles, but this is not that
hard to do, as most touring bicycles still use quill headsets (alas,
the classic Trek 520 went over to the dark side, as did the REI
Novara Randonee).

Why should one avoid threadless headsets on a touring bike? Will the
weight of the front rack and panniers cause problems?


_ Yes, I don't understand this either. All I can think of is that
you can't easily adjust height on the road.

_ Booker C. Bense



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I have a tandem set up for touring, using a threadless headset. With
two people, and four fully-loaded panniers plus additional equipment,
it carries much more weight than the average single bike ever will.
Never had a problem with the headset. In fact, I think the threadless
headset is easier to field-maintain than a threaded headset (all you
really need is a hex wrench, vs. big open-end wrenches for the
threaded headset). That being said, invest in a good threadless
headset. We have a Chris King, but there are other less-expensive, but
good ones out there.

Flat or dropped bars are largely personal preference. In Europe, most
folks ride "trekking" bikes that have flat or riser-type bars. Dropped
bars are usually considered to be for racing or fast day rides. As far
as I'm concerned, though, dropped bars provide many more hand
positions and the ability to match your riding posture to the
conditions (wind, etc.). The key to using drop bars for touring is to
get a stem with a good amount of rise, rather than the regular
racing-type stem with a negative rise. A wider drop bar (like 44cm)
also helps. This setup gives you the best of both worlds: a wide, flat
bar surface for when you want to sit straight up and look around, and
the multiple hand positions inherent in a drop bar. When you are
riding all day, it's key to be able to change hand positions to
alleviate numbness.

With regards to aluminum frames vs. steel, pick what feels best.
Aluminum frames, like steel frames, have been ridden hundreds of
thousands of miles around the world. My Cannondale T700 touring bike
is ten years old and a veteran of many tours. Never a problem, and it
rides great with and without bags (I actually think it handles better
with a load, a trait of good touring frames).

(Steven Scharf) wrote in
om:
Avoid threadless headsets on touring bicycles, but this is not that
hard to do, as most touring bicycles still use quill headsets (alas,
the classic Trek 520 went over to the dark side, as did the REI
Novara Randonee).

Why should one avoid threadless headsets on a touring bike? Will the
weight of the front rack and panniers cause problems?

Somebody wrote:
Why should one avoid threadless headsets on a touring bike? Will the
weight of the front rack and panniers cause problems?
On Tue, 6 Apr 2004 15:01:41 +0000 (UTC),
bbense+rec.bicycles.marketplace.Apr.06.04@telemar k.slac.stanford.edu
wrote:
_ Yes, I don't understand this either. All I can think of is that
you can't easily adjust height on the road.

Actually, that's not even an issue. A single allen wrench combined
with some repositioning of spacers and/or flipping of stem takes
care of it easily.

Servicing/adjusting the headset is easier, same allen wrench is all
that's necessary...and I suspect most people set the height once and
leave it, but some may need to adjust the headset later, especially
on a tour.

Creative handlebar height options good for tourers who need constant
height changes:
- Adjustable stem
- Threadless stem height extension
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?&sku=4264
- Threadless adapter in threaded headset (best of all worlds and
some extra height too)
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...e.cfm?SKU=1594
--
Rick Onanian