More on Slack Spokes

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 6:33:32 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 6:15:34 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/19/2019 2:17 AM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 21:50:50 -0700 (PDT), Chalo
wrote:

John B. wrote:
And when you fouled a few threads, you actually foul all the threads
that are engaged which if the spoke end protruded through the nipple
is effectively all the threads.

No, that's not true. Remember that the hard stainless spoke threads are unaffected; only the few brass threads that run up on the unthreaded shank are distorted. Since there are many turns of thread inside the nipple, those can serve as a lock while the rest function normally. It's analogous to an all-metal locknut that has been staked to distort the thread slightly on one end.

I see, or maybe I don't see, but I think that what you mean is that
when the threads in a stainless spoke/brass nipple assembly are
damaged only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged, because it
is the softer material. Which is certainly true... but if the threads
in the brass nipple are damaged isn't the strength of the threaded
joint diminished?

Carry it to an extreme and tighten the joint a bit more and as you
say, only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged , but isn't
strength of the joint reduced? After all the damage to the threads is
that they are partially sheered from the parent material and another
turn or two the threads will be completely sheered from the brass
nipple and the strength of the joint will become zero.


I'm with Chalo on that:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/NIPPLES.JPG

2 or 3 turns work as he described. Ten turns would be as you
predicted.

I hit the end of the threads, and further twisting just winds up the spoke.

-- Jay Beattie.

Again, that is my experience. Pretending that you can continue turning the nipple until you get to the bottom of a spoke is pretty funny.

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 7:20:52 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/19/2019 8:33 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 6:15:34 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/19/2019 2:17 AM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 21:50:50 -0700 (PDT), Chalo
wrote:

John B. wrote:
And when you fouled a few threads, you actually foul all the threads
that are engaged which if the spoke end protruded through the nipple
is effectively all the threads.

No, that's not true. Remember that the hard stainless spoke threads are unaffected; only the few brass threads that run up on the unthreaded shank are distorted. Since there are many turns of thread inside the nipple, those can serve as a lock while the rest function normally. It's analogous to an all-metal locknut that has been staked to distort the thread slightly on one end.

I see, or maybe I don't see, but I think that what you mean is that
when the threads in a stainless spoke/brass nipple assembly are
damaged only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged, because it
is the softer material. Which is certainly true... but if the threads
in the brass nipple are damaged isn't the strength of the threaded
joint diminished?

Carry it to an extreme and tighten the joint a bit more and as you
say, only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged , but isn't
strength of the joint reduced? After all the damage to the threads is
that they are partially sheered from the parent material and another
turn or two the threads will be completely sheered from the brass
nipple and the strength of the joint will become zero.


I'm with Chalo on that:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/NIPPLES.JPG

2 or 3 turns work as he described. Ten turns would be as you
predicted.

I hit the end of the threads, and further twisting just winds up the spoke.


Brands of nipples vary in that. DT Swiss brass nipples go
right past the end.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

How do you get a brass (or aluminum) nipple to go "past the end" of a steel spoke thread without destroying the threads in the nipple?

On 7/19/2019 12:27 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 7:20:52 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/19/2019 8:33 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 6:15:34 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/19/2019 2:17 AM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 21:50:50 -0700 (PDT), Chalo
wrote:

John B. wrote:
And when you fouled a few threads, you actually foul all the threads
that are engaged which if the spoke end protruded through the nipple
is effectively all the threads.

No, that's not true. Remember that the hard stainless spoke threads are unaffected; only the few brass threads that run up on the unthreaded shank are distorted. Since there are many turns of thread inside the nipple, those can serve as a lock while the rest function normally. It's analogous to an all-metal locknut that has been staked to distort the thread slightly on one end.

I see, or maybe I don't see, but I think that what you mean is that
when the threads in a stainless spoke/brass nipple assembly are
damaged only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged, because it
is the softer material. Which is certainly true... but if the threads
in the brass nipple are damaged isn't the strength of the threaded
joint diminished?

Carry it to an extreme and tighten the joint a bit more and as you
say, only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged , but isn't
strength of the joint reduced? After all the damage to the threads is
that they are partially sheered from the parent material and another
turn or two the threads will be completely sheered from the brass
nipple and the strength of the joint will become zero.


I'm with Chalo on that:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/NIPPLES.JPG

2 or 3 turns work as he described. Ten turns would be as you
predicted.

I hit the end of the threads, and further twisting just winds up the spoke.


Brands of nipples vary in that. DT Swiss brass nipples go
right past the end.

How do you get a brass (or aluminum) nipple to go "past the end" of a steel spoke thread without destroying the threads in the nipple?


As Chalo mentioned, it deforms the first brass threads which
can be considered a feature in terms of threadlock. Again 2
turns, maybe three have that effect. All of the threads is a
ruined nipple.

Aluminum nipples are a crime and also their own punishment.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 10:20:09 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 5:58:31 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 4:16:18 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 14:13:22 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 17, 2019 at 6:48:14 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, July 17, 2019 at 5:47:23 PM UTC-7, Chalo wrote:
The length of spokes has little to do with tension; it's all about how tightly you do them up.

Sometimes, I use spokes that are a couple or three mm too long so that interference between the tops of the nipple threads and the unthreaded shank of the spoke serves as a mechanical threadlocker. This can keep non-drive side spokes in highly dished wheels from unscrewing, without resort to adhesives that complicate later service.

If your spokes are so overlong that you don't have several intact threads engaged when you reach your desired tension, that's a reason to switch to shorter spokes. But if you don't have more than 3mm of spoke thread poking out the back of the nipple, you haven't come close to using up your leeway.

In the case of janky plastic rims from anonymous Chinese manufacturers, the concern would not be proper spoke length, but whether the rims can tolerate normal operating tension. You may be set to discover why the manufacturer left your wheels so loose to begin with.

Janky is such a harsh term! We call it a value rim! I think Tom said he bottomed out the spokes. Maybe they only have a few threads to save money. Who knows.

1. In the process of testing carbon handlebars some GCN affiliate was demonstrating how the handlebars could have internal voids leading to failures of the handlebar. Then he just happened to show cross sections of the Chinese rims and the Enve American rims of he same type. The Enve had several voids showing. What would lead you to believe that Made in China would automatically mean less professional workmanship when most carbon fiber parts are being presently made in China? I bought a Look handlebar/stem one piece for 12% of the cost simply because it didn't have the Look decals on it..

2. I have stated in many postings that the spokes were bottoming out in the nipples. In what universe do you suppose Chalo lives in which I have all of the proper wheel building tools and skills and it wouldn't occur to me to tighten the spokes up? I have said here many times that I can build an aluminum wheels and true it in a half hour. But he wants to tell me about wheel building?

I see... you the expert wheel builder are riding around on a cheap
pair of Chinese made wheels with loose spokes... and whining about it..

If my spokes were rattling, I'd whine about it! And then I'd tighten the spokes or dump the wheel -- but I'd whine about it first. You NEVER want to miss an opportunity to whine.

So while I'm at it, I just replaced my old Giro Code SPD/MTB commuter shoes with a new pair of Sidis that hurt my feet damn it! I should have bought three pairs of the Codes. They were dirt cheap on sale at Nashbar six or seven years ago. The heel cup padding evaporated and the ratchets have been replaced a few times, but they are still wearable and super comfortable. I just got sucked into a Sidi sale at Western Bikeworks. Its the shiny object syndrome. I hope they break in.

-- Jay Beattie.

Exactly where did I ever say that the spokes were "rattling"? Are you going for the John B and Chalo awards for misrepresentation?

O.K., substitute "loose" for "rattling." I'll send a correction sheet to the court reporter. We want to make sure that Usenet blather is true and accurate.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 12:44:13 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 10:20:09 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 5:58:31 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 4:16:18 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 14:13:22 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 17, 2019 at 6:48:14 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, July 17, 2019 at 5:47:23 PM UTC-7, Chalo wrote:
The length of spokes has little to do with tension; it's all about how tightly you do them up.

Sometimes, I use spokes that are a couple or three mm too long so that interference between the tops of the nipple threads and the unthreaded shank of the spoke serves as a mechanical threadlocker. This can keep non-drive side spokes in highly dished wheels from unscrewing, without resort to adhesives that complicate later service.

If your spokes are so overlong that you don't have several intact threads engaged when you reach your desired tension, that's a reason to switch to shorter spokes. But if you don't have more than 3mm of spoke thread poking out the back of the nipple, you haven't come close to using up your leeway.

In the case of janky plastic rims from anonymous Chinese manufacturers, the concern would not be proper spoke length, but whether the rims can tolerate normal operating tension. You may be set to discover why the manufacturer left your wheels so loose to begin with.

Janky is such a harsh term! We call it a value rim! I think Tom said he bottomed out the spokes. Maybe they only have a few threads to save money. Who knows.

1. In the process of testing carbon handlebars some GCN affiliate was demonstrating how the handlebars could have internal voids leading to failures of the handlebar. Then he just happened to show cross sections of the Chinese rims and the Enve American rims of he same type. The Enve had several voids showing. What would lead you to believe that Made in China would automatically mean less professional workmanship when most carbon fiber parts are being presently made in China? I bought a Look handlebar/stem one piece for 12% of the cost simply because it didn't have the Look decals on it.

2. I have stated in many postings that the spokes were bottoming out in the nipples. In what universe do you suppose Chalo lives in which I have all of the proper wheel building tools and skills and it wouldn't occur to me to tighten the spokes up? I have said here many times that I can build an aluminum wheels and true it in a half hour. But he wants to tell me about wheel building?

I see... you the expert wheel builder are riding around on a cheap
pair of Chinese made wheels with loose spokes... and whining about it.

If my spokes were rattling, I'd whine about it! And then I'd tighten the spokes or dump the wheel -- but I'd whine about it first. You NEVER want to miss an opportunity to whine.

So while I'm at it, I just replaced my old Giro Code SPD/MTB commuter shoes with a new pair of Sidis that hurt my feet damn it! I should have bought three pairs of the Codes. They were dirt cheap on sale at Nashbar six or seven years ago. The heel cup padding evaporated and the ratchets have been replaced a few times, but they are still wearable and super comfortable. I just got sucked into a Sidi sale at Western Bikeworks. Its the shiny object syndrome. I hope they break in.

-- Jay Beattie.

Exactly where did I ever say that the spokes were "rattling"? Are you going for the John B and Chalo awards for misrepresentation?

O.K., substitute "loose" for "rattling." I'll send a correction sheet to the court reporter. We want to make sure that Usenet blather is true and accurate.

-- Jay Beattie.

Neither did I say that they were rattling. Where are you getting these things from? I said that the spokes were a great deal slacker than they were on the clinchers to the point that when you rang them they were a octave below the clincher spokes.

Maybe you and Zen should get together and discuss evolution as an exact science. Yeah - the same guy who hasn't read the Origin of Species but can invent what Charles Darwin said. The man who doesn't know diddly squat about DNA but can tell us that mutation is part of evolution.

On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 08:15:31 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/19/2019 2:17 AM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 21:50:50 -0700 (PDT), Chalo
wrote:

John B. wrote:
And when you fouled a few threads, you actually foul all the threads
that are engaged which if the spoke end protruded through the nipple
is effectively all the threads.

No, that's not true. Remember that the hard stainless spoke threads are unaffected; only the few brass threads that run up on the unthreaded shank are distorted. Since there are many turns of thread inside the nipple, those can serve as a lock while the rest function normally. It's analogous to an all-metal locknut that has been staked to distort the thread slightly on one end.

I see, or maybe I don't see, but I think that what you mean is that
when the threads in a stainless spoke/brass nipple assembly are
damaged only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged, because it
is the softer material. Which is certainly true... but if the threads
in the brass nipple are damaged isn't the strength of the threaded
joint diminished?

Carry it to an extreme and tighten the joint a bit more and as you
say, only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged , but isn't
strength of the joint reduced? After all the damage to the threads is
that they are partially sheered from the parent material and another
turn or two the threads will be completely sheered from the brass
nipple and the strength of the joint will become zero.


I'm with Chalo on that:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/NIPPLES.JPG

2 or 3 turns work as he described. Ten turns would be as you
predicted.

Assuming that you start with sufficient torque to ensure that the
threads on the "screw" are firmly pressed against the threads in the
"nut" than any further torque must either stretch the screw outside
the nut or damage the threads by at least partially sheering the
threads in either the screw or the nut.

And that is not just me talking. Read any engineering book about
threads and torque. You can also test it yourself. Clamp a hex headed
bolt in a vise. Stack sufficient flat washers on the bolt to ensure
that the nut will not bottom out on the bolt threads, tighten the but
to the designated torque for that bolt/nut combination. Now turn the
nut 3 more revolutions.
--
cheers,

John B.

On 7/19/2019 6:29 PM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 08:15:31 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/19/2019 2:17 AM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 21:50:50 -0700 (PDT), Chalo
wrote:

John B. wrote:
And when you fouled a few threads, you actually foul all the threads
that are engaged which if the spoke end protruded through the nipple
is effectively all the threads.

No, that's not true. Remember that the hard stainless spoke threads are unaffected; only the few brass threads that run up on the unthreaded shank are distorted. Since there are many turns of thread inside the nipple, those can serve as a lock while the rest function normally. It's analogous to an all-metal locknut that has been staked to distort the thread slightly on one end.

I see, or maybe I don't see, but I think that what you mean is that
when the threads in a stainless spoke/brass nipple assembly are
damaged only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged, because it
is the softer material. Which is certainly true... but if the threads
in the brass nipple are damaged isn't the strength of the threaded
joint diminished?

Carry it to an extreme and tighten the joint a bit more and as you
say, only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged , but isn't
strength of the joint reduced? After all the damage to the threads is
that they are partially sheered from the parent material and another
turn or two the threads will be completely sheered from the brass
nipple and the strength of the joint will become zero.


I'm with Chalo on that:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/NIPPLES.JPG

2 or 3 turns work as he described. Ten turns would be as you
predicted.

Assuming that you start with sufficient torque to ensure that the
threads on the "screw" are firmly pressed against the threads in the
"nut" than any further torque must either stretch the screw outside
the nut or damage the threads by at least partially sheering the
threads in either the screw or the nut.

And that is not just me talking. Read any engineering book about
threads and torque. You can also test it yourself. Clamp a hex headed
bolt in a vise. Stack sufficient flat washers on the bolt to ensure
that the nut will not bottom out on the bolt threads, tighten the but
to the designated torque for that bolt/nut combination. Now turn the
nut 3 more revolutions.
--
cheers,

John B.


Yes, that's well known.

In the case of a stainless spoke with a brass nipple, the
unthreaded spoke body is half-height of the raised rolled
hard thread and the brass nut is soft. I didn't theorize
about it, I observed it in multiple iterations. As has
Chalo, I assume.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 7/19/2019 6:29 PM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 08:15:31 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/19/2019 2:17 AM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 21:50:50 -0700 (PDT), Chalo
wrote:

John B. wrote:
And when you fouled a few threads, you actually foul all the threads
that are engaged which if the spoke end protruded through the nipple
is effectively all the threads.

No, that's not true. Remember that the hard stainless spoke threads are unaffected; only the few brass threads that run up on the unthreaded shank are distorted. Since there are many turns of thread inside the nipple, those can serve as a lock while the rest function normally. It's analogous to an all-metal locknut that has been staked to distort the thread slightly on one end.

I see, or maybe I don't see, but I think that what you mean is that
when the threads in a stainless spoke/brass nipple assembly are
damaged only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged, because it
is the softer material. Which is certainly true... but if the threads
in the brass nipple are damaged isn't the strength of the threaded
joint diminished?

Carry it to an extreme and tighten the joint a bit more and as you
say, only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged , but isn't
strength of the joint reduced? After all the damage to the threads is
that they are partially sheered from the parent material and another
turn or two the threads will be completely sheered from the brass
nipple and the strength of the joint will become zero.


I'm with Chalo on that:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/NIPPLES.JPG

2 or 3 turns work as he described. Ten turns would be as you
predicted.

Assuming that you start with sufficient torque to ensure that the
threads on the "screw" are firmly pressed against the threads in the
"nut" than any further torque must either stretch the screw outside
the nut or damage the threads by at least partially sheering the
threads in either the screw or the nut.

And that is not just me talking. Read any engineering book about
threads and torque. You can also test it yourself. Clamp a hex headed
bolt in a vise. Stack sufficient flat washers on the bolt to ensure
that the nut will not bottom out on the bolt threads, tighten the but
to the designated torque for that bolt/nut combination. Now turn the
nut 3 more revolutions.
--
cheers,

John B.


p.s. The phenomenon of 'spokes too long', while never
recommended, was once so common that VAR made their nice #17
tool for that in cast steel with replaceable hardened cutters:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/var/pages/var0036.html

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/VAR-17B-Spok...AOSwj01dBYT C

It's unprofessional and it's annoying but it is not fatal to
wheel integrity. When I was young, an amazing number of new
European bicycles needed that tool- the fastest way out.


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 19:10:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/19/2019 6:29 PM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 08:15:31 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/19/2019 2:17 AM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 21:50:50 -0700 (PDT), Chalo
wrote:

John B. wrote:
And when you fouled a few threads, you actually foul all the threads
that are engaged which if the spoke end protruded through the nipple
is effectively all the threads.

No, that's not true. Remember that the hard stainless spoke threads are unaffected; only the few brass threads that run up on the unthreaded shank are distorted. Since there are many turns of thread inside the nipple, those can serve as a lock while the rest function normally. It's analogous to an all-metal locknut that has been staked to distort the thread slightly on one end.

I see, or maybe I don't see, but I think that what you mean is that
when the threads in a stainless spoke/brass nipple assembly are
damaged only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged, because it
is the softer material. Which is certainly true... but if the threads
in the brass nipple are damaged isn't the strength of the threaded
joint diminished?

Carry it to an extreme and tighten the joint a bit more and as you
say, only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged , but isn't
strength of the joint reduced? After all the damage to the threads is
that they are partially sheered from the parent material and another
turn or two the threads will be completely sheered from the brass
nipple and the strength of the joint will become zero.


I'm with Chalo on that:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/NIPPLES.JPG

2 or 3 turns work as he described. Ten turns would be as you
predicted.

Assuming that you start with sufficient torque to ensure that the
threads on the "screw" are firmly pressed against the threads in the
"nut" than any further torque must either stretch the screw outside
the nut or damage the threads by at least partially sheering the
threads in either the screw or the nut.

And that is not just me talking. Read any engineering book about
threads and torque. You can also test it yourself. Clamp a hex headed
bolt in a vise. Stack sufficient flat washers on the bolt to ensure
that the nut will not bottom out on the bolt threads, tighten the but
to the designated torque for that bolt/nut combination. Now turn the
nut 3 more revolutions.
--
cheers,

John B.


Yes, that's well known.

In the case of a stainless spoke with a brass nipple, the
unthreaded spoke body is half-height of the raised rolled
hard thread and the brass nut is soft. I didn't theorize
about it, I observed it in multiple iterations. As has
Chalo, I assume.

What are you saying? that the nipple threads being of a larger
diameter than the necked down portion of the spoke will screw right
off the enlarged end of the spoke that is threaded and move freely
along the necked down portion of the spoke? I can accept that, in fact
I have some spokes that were shortened and rethreaded by a shop in
Singapore that are exactly like that.
--
cheers,

John B.

On 7/19/2019 8:53 PM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 19:10:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/19/2019 6:29 PM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 08:15:31 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/19/2019 2:17 AM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 21:50:50 -0700 (PDT), Chalo
wrote:

John B. wrote:
And when you fouled a few threads, you actually foul all the threads
that are engaged which if the spoke end protruded through the nipple
is effectively all the threads.

No, that's not true. Remember that the hard stainless spoke threads are unaffected; only the few brass threads that run up on the unthreaded shank are distorted. Since there are many turns of thread inside the nipple, those can serve as a lock while the rest function normally. It's analogous to an all-metal locknut that has been staked to distort the thread slightly on one end.

I see, or maybe I don't see, but I think that what you mean is that
when the threads in a stainless spoke/brass nipple assembly are
damaged only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged, because it
is the softer material. Which is certainly true... but if the threads
in the brass nipple are damaged isn't the strength of the threaded
joint diminished?

Carry it to an extreme and tighten the joint a bit more and as you
say, only the threads in the brass nipple are damaged , but isn't
strength of the joint reduced? After all the damage to the threads is
that they are partially sheered from the parent material and another
turn or two the threads will be completely sheered from the brass
nipple and the strength of the joint will become zero.


I'm with Chalo on that:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/NIPPLES.JPG

2 or 3 turns work as he described. Ten turns would be as you
predicted.

Assuming that you start with sufficient torque to ensure that the
threads on the "screw" are firmly pressed against the threads in the
"nut" than any further torque must either stretch the screw outside
the nut or damage the threads by at least partially sheering the
threads in either the screw or the nut.

And that is not just me talking. Read any engineering book about
threads and torque. You can also test it yourself. Clamp a hex headed
bolt in a vise. Stack sufficient flat washers on the bolt to ensure
that the nut will not bottom out on the bolt threads, tighten the but
to the designated torque for that bolt/nut combination. Now turn the
nut 3 more revolutions.
--
cheers,

John B.


Yes, that's well known.

In the case of a stainless spoke with a brass nipple, the
unthreaded spoke body is half-height of the raised rolled
hard thread and the brass nut is soft. I didn't theorize
about it, I observed it in multiple iterations. As has
Chalo, I assume.

What are you saying? that the nipple threads being of a larger
diameter than the necked down portion of the spoke will screw right
off the enlarged end of the spoke that is threaded and move freely
along the necked down portion of the spoke? I can accept that, in fact
I have some spokes that were shortened and rethreaded by a shop in
Singapore that are exactly like that.
--
cheers,

John B.


Well, yeah, sorta.

The brass thread is still deformed because the root of the
spoke thread ended. Some proportion of the nipple thread is
pushed. Which, as noted by Chalo, becomes effectively, a
threadlocker.

In practice, a few threads like this behave like a nylock
nut until, at some high proportion of damaged thread, it's
just a ruined fastener.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971