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#1
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Tin plated wire for binding spokes
Is the bond created using tin plated steel wire and tinmans solder
more resilient than that made with zinc plated wire. For use on zinc plated, chrome or stainless spokes. Also copper plated wire. TJ |
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#2
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Tin plated wire for binding spokes
Nick L Plate wrote:
Is the bond created using tin plated steel wire and tinmans solder more resilient than that made with zinc plated wire. For use on zinc plated, chrome or stainless spokes. Also copper plated wire. TJ as long as the solder wets the spoke and the binding wire, it doesn't really matter. since it's easy to solder to stainless if you use the right flux, you may as well also use a stainless binding wire and stainless spokes. NEVER use chrome spokes - the plating cracks and initiates fatigue - very short lived. |
#3
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Tin plated wire for binding spokes
On 7 Mar, 19:19, jim beam wrote:
Nick L Plate wrote: Is the bond created using tin plated steel wire and tinmans solder more resilient than that made with zinc plated wire. *For use on zinc plated, chrome or stainless spokes. *Also copper plated wire. TJ as long as the solder wets the spoke and the binding wire, it doesn't really matter. *since it's easy to solder to stainless if you use the right flux, you may as well also use a stainless binding wire and stainless spokes. NEVER use chrome spokes - the plating cracks and initiates fatigue - very short lived. I have used chrome spokes (not soldered) without succumbing to fatigue. Do you mean there is a problem after soldering? TJ |
#4
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Tin plated wire for binding spokes
On Mar 7, 2:07*pm, Nick L Plate wrote:
Is the bond created using tin plated steel wire and tinmans solder more resilient than that made with zinc plated wire. *For use on zinc plated, chrome or stainless spokes. *Also copper plated wire. TJ Hemp twine (the kind used as packing for bagpipe drones) and (gross) blobs of epoxy. Come to think of it, a pneumatic hog-ringer and free-trade, certified organic pitch would prolly work as well as anything. |
#5
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Tin plated wire for binding spokes
Nick L Plate wrote:
On 7 Mar, 19:19, jim beam wrote: Nick L Plate wrote: Is the bond created using tin plated steel wire and tinmans solder more resilient than that made with zinc plated wire. �For use on zinc plated, chrome or stainless spokes. �Also copper plated wire. TJ as long as the solder wets the spoke and the binding wire, it doesn't really matter. �since it's easy to solder to stainless if you use the right flux, you may as well also use a stainless binding wire and stainless spokes. NEVER use chrome spokes - the plating cracks and initiates fatigue - very short lived. I have used chrome spokes (not soldered) without succumbing to fatigue. Do you mean there is a problem after soldering? TJ no, i mean that as you bend them to lace the wheel, the brittle chrome plate which is not as elastic as its substrate, cracks. each crack is an initiation point for fatigue. |
#6
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Tin plated wire for binding spokes
On 7 Mar, 20:01, wrote:
On Mar 7, 2:07*pm, Nick L Plate wrote: Is the bond created using tin plated steel wire and tinmans solder more resilient than that made with zinc plated wire. *For use on zinc plated, chrome or stainless spokes. *Also copper plated wire. TJ Hemp twine (the kind used as packing for bagpipe drones) and (gross) blobs of epoxy. Come to think of it, a pneumatic hog-ringer and free-trade, certified organic pitch would prolly work as well as anything. button thread and sealing wax? as tite as the spoke can bare. tj |
#7
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Tin plated wire for binding spokes
Nick L Plate wrote:
Is the bond created using tin plated steel wire and tinmans solder more resilient than that made with zinc plated wire. For use on zinc plated, chrome or stainless spokes. Also copper plated wire. A small area of solder after the ties are wrapped is simply to keep the wire from unwinding. After soldering, the excess wire is snipped away. This is not to advocate the technique, but only to clarify that the solder should not adhere to the spoke itself. You can't readily solder to stainless without silver (which is much hotter than lead solder) and at any rate heating the spoke itself enough to wet with lead is also more heat than is needed. We use plain steel mechanic's wire, not tinned material. Finished wraps get washed to remove any flux residue. Although not a functional improvement to a wheel, some riders prefer the look, especially on period restorations. What's a Spence Wolf Cinelli without tied spokes? -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#8
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Tin plated wire for binding spokes
On 7 Mar, 21:08, A Muzi wrote:
Nick L Plate wrote: Is the bond created using tin plated steel wire and tinmans solder more resilient than that made with zinc plated wire. *For use on zinc plated, chrome or stainless spokes. *Also copper plated wire. A small area of solder after the ties are wrapped is simply to keep the wire from unwinding. After soldering, the excess wire is snipped away. This is not to advocate the technique, but only to clarify that the solder should not adhere to the spoke itself. You can't readily solder to stainless without silver (which is much hotter than lead solder) and at any rate heating the spoke itself enough to wet with lead is also more heat than is needed. We use plain steel mechanic's wire, not tinned material. Finished wraps get washed to remove any flux residue. Although not a functional improvement to a wheel, some riders prefer the look, especially on period restorations. What's a Spence Wolf Cinelli without tied spokes? -- Andrew Muzi * www.yellowjersey.org/ * Open every day since 1 April, 1971 If there is no metallurgical bonding you cannot expect a gain in lateral and torsional stiffness. The solder must bond to the spoke to eliminate the relative longitudinal movement between the spokes. This movement is evident in the wear at the crossing in a laced(woven) wheel. I am doing it for 'functional improvement', not asthetics. It also simplifies and speeds the swapping of a rim. TJ |
#9
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Tin plated wire for binding spokes
Nick L Plate wrote:
Is the bond created using tin plated steel wire and tinmans solder more resilient than that made with zinc plated wire. For use on zinc plated, chrome or stainless spokes. Also copper plated wire. A Muzi wrote: A small area of solder after the ties are wrapped is simply to keep the wire from unwinding. After soldering, the excess wire is snipped away. This is not to advocate the technique, but only to clarify that the solder should not adhere to the spoke itself. You can't readily solder to stainless without silver (which is much hotter than lead solder) and at any rate heating the spoke itself enough to wet with lead is also more heat than is needed. We use plain steel mechanic's wire, not tinned material. Finished wraps get washed to remove any flux residue. Although not a functional improvement to a wheel, some riders prefer the look, especially on period restorations. What's a Spence Wolf Cinelli without tied spokes? Nick L Plate wrote: If there is no metallurgical bonding you cannot expect a gain in lateral and torsional stiffness. The solder must bond to the spoke to eliminate the relative longitudinal movement between the spokes. This movement is evident in the wear at the crossing in a laced(woven) wheel. I am doing it for 'functional improvement', not asthetics. It also simplifies and speeds the swapping of a rim. Other testing could find no such effect but, as I said, no harm if you prefer that (tedious) process. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#10
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Tin plated wire for binding spokes
On Mar 7, 2:48*pm, Nick L Plate wrote:
On 7 Mar, 21:08, A Muzi wrote: Nick L Plate wrote: Is the bond created using tin plated steel wire and tinmans solder more resilient than that made with zinc plated wire. *For use on zinc plated, chrome or stainless spokes. *Also copper plated wire. A small area of solder after the ties are wrapped is simply to keep the wire from unwinding. After soldering, the excess wire is snipped away. This is not to advocate the technique, but only to clarify that the solder should not adhere to the spoke itself. You can't readily solder to stainless without silver (which is much hotter than lead solder) and at any rate heating the spoke itself enough to wet with lead is also more heat than is needed. We use plain steel mechanic's wire, not tinned material. Finished wraps get washed to remove any flux residue. Although not a functional improvement to a wheel, some riders prefer the look, especially on period restorations. What's a Spence Wolf Cinelli without tied spokes? -- Andrew Muzi * www.yellowjersey.org/ * Open every day since 1 April, 1971 If there is no metallurgical bonding you cannot expect a gain in lateral and torsional stiffness. The solder must bond to the spoke to eliminate the relative longitudinal movement between the spokes. *This movement is evident in the wear at the crossing in a laced(woven) wheel. *I am doing it for 'functional improvement', not asthetics. *It also simplifies and speeds the swapping of a rim. TJ Dear Trevor, http://www.ozbizz.com/melton/kensbikes/snowflake.htm Cheers, Carl Fogel |
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