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#21
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
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In article , Ryan Cousineau wrote: Jasper: have you ever seen a rider on a conventional road or MTB frame actually using an 8" riser stem, threaded or threadless? What was their excuse? _ Just to throw fuel on the fire, I've got one on my 80's MTB that I converted to a drop bar touring bike. It's the apparently no longer made SOMA threadless converter that is about 12 inches long. Here's a picture http://www.bti-usa.com/item.asp?item...ch=&showS ec= Of the many differently-sized regulars on this newsgroup, the only one I can imagine who would have call for an 8" stem, even in the worst compact-frame-in-three-sizes circumstances, would be 6'lotsa" Chalo, and he would probably break an 8" threaded stem. He is a great breaker of parts and a fan of threadless stems, you know... At some point, the frame doesn't actually fit, _ Well, it fit me when I bought it and with the original steel riser stem and flat bars it fits me. The length of that extension worries me a bit, but the bike is really comfortable to ride. I am not petite, but I am hardly Chola sized. _BTW, I've seen this part around on a few other converted old MTB bikes. You can get a similar amount of rise with a Nitto Periscope stem. _ Booker C. Bense -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: 2.6.2 iQCVAwUBQu0mDWTWTAjn5N/lAQHqBgQAtgl5uSwUZfveKl23p+X8czsNSnoJ3M2M IdcC6RliZElbwThT4QVVXW05ZK+zXfDOw5guS1OXIL1bAZH4Mq weAIJVgGxh3MSc oCgOWtRL0zPLcS21hiqZPw8Orx2VTZuXOrLXCfGrQA+rlcy5LJ uzDspaSc5aHCB2 Pu/MeyTxyMk= =IaW1 -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- |
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#22
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
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In article , (PeteCresswell) wrote: Per Booker C. Bense: There are worse things, but either a very short or very long stem will make the bike handling "different". I have a custom hard tail that I specified an extra-long top tube on - expecting it to help keep the front wheel down. _ Well, I meant road bike handling, but I'm not sure why you thought an extra long top tube would keep the front wheel down on climbs. It did, but my FS - which has an effective top tube over an inch shorter - is even better in that respect. _ My intiution would be that the longer the rear chainstay, the easier to keep the front wheel down. However, that leads to poorer traction on the rear wheel, if you stand to climb. _ Booker C. Bense -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: 2.6.2 iQCVAwUBQu0oqGTWTAjn5N/lAQEYkAQAmeWv4WuBmxOcHV85SuzoLTgKNV+sNLf/ kb7yLr8B5xeW7ZCRnm8EY3vH1RBwp4I1xQt3Nk4IvomihvrQ+K q5Hxw1RURxkxKB E/mh3olT1tf6hmGEJCqdyorKwGN3bQQ08JKKDeHhcq05Z3JVaMvP e0TyC1fSjBln OaYkd0f9N3c= =uyFB -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- |
#23
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
Jasper: have you ever seen a rider on a conventional road or MTB frame
actually using an 8" riser stem, threaded or threadless? What was their excuse? Booker C. Bense wrote: _ Just to throw fuel on the fire, I've got one on my 80's MTB that I converted to a drop bar touring bike. It's the apparently no longer made SOMA threadless converter that is about 12 inches long. Here's a picture http://www.bti-usa.com/item.asp?item...ch=&showS ec= Ryan Cousineau wrote: Of the many differently-sized regulars on this newsgroup, the only one I can imagine who would have call for an 8" stem, even in the worst compact-frame-in-three-sizes circumstances, would be 6'lotsa" Chalo, and he would probably break an 8" threaded stem. He is a great breaker of parts and a fan of threadless stems, you know... At some point, the frame doesn't actually fit, Booker C. Bense wrote: _ Well, it fit me when I bought it and with the original steel riser stem and flat bars it fits me. The length of that extension worries me a bit, but the bike is really comfortable to ride. I am not petite, but I am hardly Chola sized. _BTW, I've seen this part around on a few other converted old MTB bikes. You can get a similar amount of rise with a Nitto Periscope stem. I'm entering this discussion late but IMHO if a dork stem gets a guy out on his bike more often that's a good thing right there. Your (or my) aesthetic opinion of his bike is of secondary import. Distant second. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#24
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
In article ,
Booker C. Bense . stanford.edu wrote: -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- In article , Ryan Cousineau wrote: Jasper: have you ever seen a rider on a conventional road or MTB frame actually using an 8" riser stem, threaded or threadless? What was their excuse? _ Just to throw fuel on the fire, I've got one on my 80's MTB that I converted to a drop bar touring bike. It's the apparently no longer made SOMA threadless converter that is about 12 inches long. Here's a picture http://www.bti-usa.com/item.asp?item...ch=&showS ec= Fire away. At some point, the frame doesn't actually fit, _ Well, it fit me when I bought it and with the original steel riser stem and flat bars it fits me. The length of that extension worries me a bit, but the bike is really comfortable to ride. I am not petite, but I am hardly Chola sized. I may be too churlish in pointing this out, but such a change is a pretty dramatic conversion of a bike from one use to another. So, I will concede this: if you own an old mountain bike with the intention of converting it to a road bike, best to have chosen one with a quill stem . -RjC. -- Ryan Cousineau http://www.wiredcola.com/ "I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos |
#25
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
RP10128 wrote:
I need a bike with a top tube of about 50.5 cm. To get a top tube of that length, I need to get a frame that is one or two sizes too small. That is, I would have to get a 49 cm. frame, whereas my inseam would indicate a 52 cm. frame. Stock frames from various manufacturers have various top tube lengths. Find a stock frame with the right top tube length you want and the right standover height. My LBS says that it doesn't matter that the frame is so small, but this strikes me as being counter-intuitive. Is the LBS right? No. The LBS is not right. No properly fitting frame requires an extra short stem or an extra long stem to fit the rider correctly. I am pretty sure the true reasoning of the LBS is they do not represent any frame manufacturers with the proper length top tube in the frame size you want. So they will try to sell you the wrong frame size and pretend to make it fit you with an inappropriately long or short stem and seatpost. Should I get the correct size frame and install a very short stem? No. Just buy the correctly sized frame with the correct top tube length and seat tube. You are buying new. You are not trying to make a frame you already own fit you. You don't have to use odd stem and seatpost lengths or rises or angles. Just find a frame with the right top tube length and seat tube length and head tube length. Then put on the right length stem and seatpost. |
#26
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
a sizing analysis based on mistakes in sizing is appropriate and useful.
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#28
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
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In article , Ryan Cousineau wrote: In article , Booker C. Bense . stanford.edu wrote: -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- In article , Ryan Cousineau wrote: Jasper: have you ever seen a rider on a conventional road or MTB frame actually using an 8" riser stem, threaded or threadless? What was their excuse? _ Just to throw fuel on the fire, I've got one on my 80's MTB that I converted to a drop bar touring bike. It's the apparently no longer made SOMA threadless converter that is about 12 inches long. Here's a picture http://www.bti-usa.com/item.asp?item...ch=&showS ec= Fire away. _ In poking around, I get the impression this part was actually made as a side effect of the short lived SOMA folding bike, which is considered by some to be one of the better attempts at building this kind of bike. Being able to drop the bars a foot would certainly help in making a folding bike compact. At some point, the frame doesn't actually fit, _ Well, it fit me when I bought it and with the original steel riser stem and flat bars it fits me. The length of that extension worries me a bit, but the bike is really comfortable to ride. I am not petite, but I am hardly Chola sized. I may be too churlish in pointing this out, but such a change is a pretty dramatic conversion of a bike from one use to another. So, I will concede this: if you own an old mountain bike with the intention of converting it to a road bike, best to have chosen one with a quill stem . _ Actually, if I could get a 1 inch threadless 559mm( 26" ) fork, I would seriously consider spending the parts to switch. However, it would likely be cheaper just to buy a Long Haul trucker frame and move the parts over. _ Booker C. Bense -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: 2.6.2 iQCVAwUBQu5v5mTWTAjn5N/lAQH1dgP+M+OFZOeBQ2vr/F669U3ZyPkPBH2VlkrM FwWdqE79+huj4qpenwy4HLPlZj5WqsZ4ZdG96rQGBnug0AC28J F1d6LWyeMikCnK SRoLhLe3vXjoYQEHyN5bSq7tD0We/PmZl1j3O/Ah9rpHehIyUZkLEiyyGVgRtlJG Au2PttJv4no= =IAHz -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- |
#29
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:27:25 GMT, Ryan Cousineau wrote:
Once you are building a non-BMX bike with an 8" rise, you are into serious freak-show territory, threadless or not. Indeed, For a flat-bar road or MTB that, for some reason, needed 20 cm of rise, I probably would recommend a BMX bar. Okay, look, most people tend to want their bar at the height of their saddle or a little above. Then, the problem of finding people who need 8" stems reduces to finding people with 4-5 or so inches of exposed seatpost (given a horizontal top tube frame, of course). That's not that hard. Also, consider the English Roadster model: those were generally sold with stems of 6" or so even when properly sized. Now, in a country where the average person believes the English Roadster model is the typical bike (and who often ride undersized versions because they're the fastest growing nation, so secondhand bikes are all too small), try to sell threadless-stemmed bikes. It's damned hard. Jasper |
#30
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
Jasper Janssen wrote:
Okay, look, most people tend to want their bar at the height of their saddle or a little above. ??? |
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