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Decent bicycle light cost



 
 
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  #21  
Old March 9th 17, 03:19 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sepp Ruf
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Default Decent bicycle light cost

AMuzi wrote:
On 3/8/2017 11:45 PM, jbeattie wrote:


the E3 Triple 2 (for sale by me)


the warm fuzzy feeling of a light powered by
genuine German electrons.


That lamp will actually self-destruct upon sensing powerful Murican electrons:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?430445-repairing-a-Supernova-Triple-dynamo-headlight


Ads
  #22  
Old March 9th 17, 03:29 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
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Default Decent bicycle light cost

On 3/8/2017 5:24 PM, Doug Landau wrote:
On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 2:00:07 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 3:18:47 PM UTC-6, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

My questions then are; #1. do you go to the expense of buying a bicycle light without having a money back guarantee if that light doesn't wrok for you the way you need it too?


If you buy a bike and it does not ride as fast as you want, do you get your money back? If you buy a tire and ride it 1000 miles and decide it does not stick in corners like it should, do you get your money back? If you buy chain lubricant and it does not keep your chain silent in downpours, and you use half the bottle, do you get your money back? Some things you have to check before you buy. Like weight, weigh it before you buy it. Or size, try it on before buying. Or lights, turn them on in a dark room to see if they are bright enough.


Ever buy a six-pack, drink it, and not even get a buzz?


http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/g1...coholic-beers/


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #23  
Old March 9th 17, 03:37 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
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Default Decent bicycle light cost

On 3/8/2017 8:22 PM, Doug Landau wrote:


Okay, I'm reading the sp-dynamo site, but I'll tell ya rite now, all of this is pure sensory overload. Or pure overload, at least. Meaning every dam light on Peter White's site sounds like the greatest thing ever. I don't see how one can possibly go wrong no matter what one buys from Peter except by getting one that's too good and blinding oncoming traffic with it.

That said, I was just thinking that I see no reason not to get the schmidt hub, for its fantastically low drag and wide spacing, and the luxos U for its ability to charge one's phone. Just as soon not have the handlebar switch , but whatever.

(Also, I don't understand the difference between the shimano 3N70, 71, and 72, and 80 for that matter, and also see that the 80 is not available in 36h, and I have a 36h rim I'd like to use.)

I guess I do see the point of going with Sanyo, as they are about 1/4 the price, at $50. Whatever. I'm drooling over the schmidt, so...

Choosing the light is mind-boggling. I was relieved to see the words of praise for the luxos U and its charging ability, cuz until then my head was swimming; as stated, they all look like the headlight-to-end-all-headlights. I guess I need to read the whole dam site over again because - as stated - since I am not shopping for Mtn-biking, and not trying to illuminate the trees up above and the forest on both sides, it seems like any of the lesser lights will be just fine.


About price, quality, cache', etc.: There's no doubt that some people
buy certain bike components - including lighting systems - partly
because they enjoy the thought of having "the best." Heck, I have a
friend who spend over $130 on fenders for one bike. I doubt very much
that they're four times better than the ones I bought. But he likes
them, and it's his choice.

Changing the subject slightly how many lumens does it take to blind oncoming traffic? Am I doing so with my $100 Cygolite Pace 850?


It's not a matter of lumens. You can blind someone with a laser that's
got a very low lumen count.

But if you're worried about that, or any other aspect of your lighting
system's appearance, why not work with a friend so you can see what your
lights look like to others?


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #24  
Old March 9th 17, 03:43 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
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Default Decent bicycle light cost

On 3/8/2017 8:50 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 7:05:58 PM UTC-5, jbeattie wrote:
Snipped
Snipped

As for lights, my L&M SECA 1400, which is all the light anyone could ever need, was $89 off a sale table. Apparently, that model was discontinued in favor of an even brighter light for lumenaholics. http://www.lightandmotion.com/choose-your-light/seca My all-in-one was $47 on super-duper discount at the winter sale at Western Bikeworks -- the L&M Urban 800 I've been talking about. Either of those would be fine for commuters who have no problems remembering to charge.

Now, the dyno hub I got on sale, too, for $100, and I still have my first purchase -- A Supernova E3 that I have to sell on eBay because it sucked as a commuting light (basically useless stand light and poor light output at low speeds climbing), and then I dumped a bunch of money into a LUXOS B -- just because I wanted to continue down the dyno light rabbit hole. None of that stuff was returnable after I had trimmed wires or built the hub into a wheel. I'm out a ton.

And about building the wheel. I've built a lot of wheels and have a first generation Park stand purchased in 1980, gobs of spokes from old projects and retired wheels and even some rims knocking around that I could lace into a dyno wheel. The cost to me beyond the hub was a bottle of beer and the time to build the front wheel. For normal folks, the total is $250 plus shipping (CR18 rim/QR). http://www.perennialcycle.com/produc...idproduct=6683

So, you're easily looking at $400 for a mid-fi dyno set up: $250 wheel and $150 light. None returnable in the event you conclude that the light sucks. But, at the end of the day, you have a light you don't have to charge and that runs as long as you do.

-- Jay Beattie.


Which is PRECISELY why I'm very leary about buying any hub dynamo lighting system. I too can build my own wheels.

I also remember those crappy bottle dynamos that gave off a very flickering light and were nearly useless at low speed and went completely out at intersections or anywhere else one stopped. I used rubber boots overthe roller but to no avail. then I tried the Sanyo bottom mount dynamo and had a lousy T-shaped beam = a VERY narrow long beam and then a narrow cross beam atthe end of that = next to useless. After that I started using battery lights.


Keep in mind that the Sanyo dyno (or really, almost any dyno) can be
used with almost any dyno compatible light.

I had the Sanyo roller dyno back in the late 1970s. IIRC the supplied
headlight didn't even come with a halogen bulb. It was useful only as a
"be seen" light. I talked to my friend who owned a bike shop, and he
sold me a halogen headlamp with better optics. It made a world of
difference.

That same dyno (40 years later!) is on my wife's touring bike, with a
Cyo headlamp. It works fine.

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #25  
Old March 9th 17, 03:56 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
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Default Decent bicycle light cost

On 3/8/2017 8:45 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:


I can tell after one short nightime ride whether the light meets my needs. It's nothing like buying a bicycle. Besides, many shops do let you take a bicycle out for a decent length test ride.


I wonder: If a guy buys a Campy carbon fiber crankset, installs it,
tests it, and says "Heck, I still can't beat my buddy up that big hill,"
does he qualify for a refund? ;-)


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #26  
Old March 9th 17, 08:16 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
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Default Decent bicycle light cost

On Thursday, March 9, 2017 at 10:56:40 AM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/8/2017 8:45 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:


I can tell after one short nightime ride whether the light meets my needs. It's nothing like buying a bicycle. Besides, many shops do let you take a bicycle out for a decent length test ride.


I wonder: If a guy buys a Campy carbon fiber crankset, installs it,
tests it, and says "Heck, I still can't beat my buddy up that big hill,"
does he qualify for a refund? ;-)


--
- Frank Krygowski


Now you're simply trolling by comparing lights to bicycles. Like I said before and you should know; it's very easy to tell if a light will light the road or trail the way you need it to. I took the bike outside the store onto a dark street and withing one block I KNEW the light was NOT suitable for my needs. What's so hard to understand about that? What's so hard to understand that someone does NOT want to spend hundreds of dollars experimenting with hub dynamose before finding something that meets THEIR needs not yours? Besides, I can tell within a few blocks if a different bicycle will be faster than the one I'm riding.

Cheers
  #27  
Old March 9th 17, 08:17 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
SMS
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Default Decent bicycle light cost

On 3/8/2017 9:45 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 6:41:38 PM UTC-8, sms wrote:
On 3/8/2017 4:05 PM, jbeattie wrote:

So, you're easily looking at $400 for a mid-fi dyno set up: $250 wheel and $150 light. None returnable in the event you conclude that the light sucks. But, at the end of the day, you have a light you don't have to charge and that runs as long as you do.


Not really. Lots of dynamo hub wheels are available for $90-125. You can
get a decent light for about $80. So you could get going for about $200.
It's not going to be nearly as good as what you can get in a $100
battery-powered light though. Or even a $50 battery-powered light. But
no one is buying a dynamo light for any reason other than not having to
worry about batteries--visibility and safety are secondary concern.


I consider the bargain dyno wheels to be too lo-fi, although they probably work nearly as well as the PD-8. Not sure about the light output of the $80 light -- but yes, the E3 Triple 2 (for sale by me) at 640 lumens is billed as the brightest dyno light on the market. Kind of underwhelming -- but you don't have to charge it, except on your credit card.


I will give you $100 for it.
  #28  
Old March 9th 17, 09:05 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
SMS
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Default Decent bicycle light cost

On 3/9/2017 12:16 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Thursday, March 9, 2017 at 10:56:40 AM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/8/2017 8:45 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:


I can tell after one short nightime ride whether the light meets my needs. It's nothing like buying a bicycle. Besides, many shops do let you take a bicycle out for a decent length test ride.


I wonder: If a guy buys a Campy carbon fiber crankset, installs it,
tests it, and says "Heck, I still can't beat my buddy up that big hill,"
does he qualify for a refund? ;-)


--
- Frank Krygowski


Now you're simply trolling by comparing lights to bicycles. Like I said before and you should know; it's very easy to tell if a light will light the road or trail the way you need it to. I took the bike outside the store onto a dark street and withing one block I KNEW the light was NOT suitable for my needs. What's so hard to understand about that? What's so hard to understand that someone does NOT want to spend hundreds of dollars experimenting with hub dynamose before finding something that meets THEIR needs not yours? Besides, I can tell within a few blocks if a different bicycle will be faster than the one I'm riding.


There are extensive evaluations of lights available, plus you can get an
idea of suitability based on technical specifications. You can also ask
fellow cyclists. In my area probably you want to ride the Caltrain bike
car on the Baby Bullet at night and get off at one of the stations and
see a wide variety of lights. Or hang out on Palo Alto's Bicycle
Boulevard at night, by a stop sign or traffic light, and get an idea of
the differences between lights, and ask the owners about them.

The reality is that it's pretty easy to narrow down light choices before
you go into a store. Choose integrated or separate battery. Eliminate
any sub-800 lumen lights. Look at beam patterns online and eliminate any
models that don't provide sufficient spill. Eliminate all StVZO models.
Ensure that there is flashing DRL functionality. Check the quality of
the handlebar mount. Check the runtime. Determine the level of
waterproofness level you need.

I know that Jay rants on and on about how poor his dynamo light purchase
worked out, but it's because he had already become accustomed to battery
powered lights which were of course much more powerful. Most people that
tout the suitability of dynamo lights have not experienced the level of
illumination and safety that are provided by a good battery light.


  #29  
Old March 9th 17, 09:55 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Doug Landau
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Default Decent bicycle light cost

On Thursday, March 9, 2017 at 7:00:20 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 2:10:48 PM UTC-8, Doug Landau wrote:
On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 1:18:47 PM UTC-8, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
One ofthe things that I've noticed about decent bicycle lights whether internal battery, exteranl battery or dynamo is that for the average person the light is expensive. I bought my CygoLite Riover II light nearly ten years ago and I ONLY bought it becausethe bicycle shop gave me a money back guarantee if it did not meet my riding needs. Mountain Equipment Co-op (aka MEC) here in Canada also offers a moneyback guarantee if something doesn't meet the customers needs.

With a dynamo hub system that's pretty hard for a shop to do unless they offer the customer a loaner built up dynamo hub wheel. I KNOW thatthe hub dynamo light I tried otside a shop in another city about 50 kms from me did NOT match the brightness road illumination of my CygoLite Rover II light and especially at low speed.

My questions then are; #1. do you go to the expense of buying a bicycle light without having a money back guarantee if that light doesn't wrok for you the way you need it too? and #2. do any shops you use give such a guarantee if you want it and would they stand behind that gurantee?

Cheers


As you might remember I was hit from behind while riding to work October 2015. Although it was 9AM it changed my spending strategy W.R.T. lights. I felt bewildered by my previous desire to spend $30 on a headlight, went to Performance and put down closer to $100/ea for two identical USB rechargable headlights, $50/ea for two USB rechargeable taillights. One to keep charging on desk at work as I am forgetful.

I am now pricing $300 hubs from Peter White Cycles. For what reason I was trying to save a few tens of $$ on headlights in the bike-commuting years of the past, I know not.

-dkl


Uh, you were hit from behind so you bought more expensive headlights?


Yes Johnny Sunset you read correctly.

  #30  
Old March 9th 17, 11:03 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
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Posts: 5,282
Default Decent bicycle light cost

On 3/9/2017 3:16 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Thursday, March 9, 2017 at 10:56:40 AM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/8/2017 8:45 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:


I can tell after one short nightime ride whether the light meets my needs. It's nothing like buying a bicycle. Besides, many shops do let you take a bicycle out for a decent length test ride.


I wonder: If a guy buys a Campy carbon fiber crankset, installs it,
tests it, and says "Heck, I still can't beat my buddy up that big hill,"
does he qualify for a refund? ;-)


--
- Frank Krygowski


Now you're simply trolling by comparing lights to bicycles.


Seems to me I was comparing lights to cranksets.

What if your new crankset doesn't make you as fast as you thought?


--
- Frank Krygowski
 




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