Cassette Lockring slipping?

Every time I've tried to install or remove a Shimano/SRAM style
cassette lockring, I've had a lot of trouble actually getting it to
work. Inevitably, the splined lockring tool slips, and I end up
spending at least 20 minutes messing around with the thing,
continually afraid that I'll be stripping the tool or the lockring, or
(on installation) not getting it sufficiently tightened: this happened
to me once and I ended up carrying my bike 3 miles when the chain
slipped off the cassette into the spokes.

Is there some trick that I'm missing? Do I need to mallet the splined
piece into the ring or something like that? I've tried a couple
different lockring tools and different handles/torque wrenches, etc
and they all suffer from slippage in the spline/lockring interface.

-alan

--
Alan Hoyle - - http://www.alanhoyle.com/
"I don't want the world, I just want your half." -TMBG
Get Horizontal, Play Ultimate.

Alan Hoyle wrote:
Every time I've tried to install or remove a Shimano/SRAM style
cassette lockring, I've had a lot of trouble actually getting it to
work. Inevitably, the splined lockring tool slips, and I end up
spending at least 20 minutes messing around with the thing,
continually afraid that I'll be stripping the tool or the lockring, or
(on installation) not getting it sufficiently tightened: this happened
to me once and I ended up carrying my bike 3 miles when the chain
slipped off the cassette into the spokes.

Is there some trick that I'm missing? Do I need to mallet the splined
piece into the ring or something like that? I've tried a couple
different lockring tools and different handles/torque wrenches, etc
and they all suffer from slippage in the spline/lockring interface.

Although you shouldn't need to for /tightening/ the lockring, try using your
QR skewer to keep the tool in place. (Works well for loosening, too, which
can be a bit trickier, of course.)

Bill "master stripper (and not in a Patrick Swayze on SNL kinda way)" S.

Every time I've tried to install or remove a Shimano/SRAM style
cassette lockring, I've had a lot of trouble actually getting it to
work. Inevitably, the splined lockring tool slips

Just use a rear quick-release skewer to hold the lockring tool in place. When
removing a lockring, just adjust the skewer a little looser to allow the
lockring to unscrew a bit.

"S o r n i" wrote in
:
Although you shouldn't need to for /tightening/ the lockring, try using
your QR skewer to keep the tool in place. (Works well for loosening,
too, which can be a bit trickier, of course.)

Or get the kind of lock ring tool with a pin in the middle to hold it in place.

Ken Wrote:
"S o r n i" wrote in
:
Although you shouldn't need to for /tightening/ the lockring, try
using
your QR skewer to keep the tool in place. (Works well for
loosening,
too, which can be a bit trickier, of course.)

Or get the kind of lock ring tool with a pin in the middle to hold it
in place.

I like this type of tool because it works easily with a torque wrench
socket.

The QR skewer idea works OK if you have a sufficiently deep socket to
fit over the QR skewer end.

Park Tool has good instructions:

http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml


--
daveornee

Alan Hoyle wrote:

Every time I've tried to install or remove a Shimano/SRAM style
cassette lockring, I've had a lot of trouble actually getting it to
work. Inevitably, the splined lockring tool slips, and I end up
spending at least 20 minutes messing around with the thing,
continually afraid that I'll be stripping the tool or the lockring, or
(on installation) not getting it sufficiently tightened: this happened
to me once and I ended up carrying my bike 3 miles when the chain
slipped off the cassette into the spokes.

Is there some trick that I'm missing? Do I need to mallet the splined
piece into the ring or something like that? I've tried a couple
different lockring tools and different handles/torque wrenches, etc
and they all suffer from slippage in the spline/lockring interface.

-alan

There are two tool formats. An early Shimano pattern used
for UG freewheels is also used for Campagnolo cassette
lockrings and for Record/Chorus BB cups. Shimano/SRAM
cassette lockrings are a different pattern --although they
look roughly similar from a few feet away. You should double
check that you're getting the right tool- - go to your LBS
with your tool and hold it up to the new ones on the wall.
The difference is obvious if you put the two tools next to
each other and your description sounds like you have the
'other' one. A nice tool for that is the Tacx T4545 with an
integral handle, BTW. At any rate, your problem is not
common among professional mechanics.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I'm not an expert mechanic; but, I used the mallet and it works great.

Tom


"Alan Hoyle" wrote in message
...
Every time I've tried to install or remove a Shimano/SRAM style
cassette lockring, I've had a lot of trouble actually getting it to
work. Inevitably, the splined lockring tool slips, and I end up
spending at least 20 minutes messing around with the thing,
continually afraid that I'll be stripping the tool or the lockring, or
(on installation) not getting it sufficiently tightened: this happened
to me once and I ended up carrying my bike 3 miles when the chain
slipped off the cassette into the spokes.

Is there some trick that I'm missing? Do I need to mallet the splined
piece into the ring or something like that? I've tried a couple
different lockring tools and different handles/torque wrenches, etc
and they all suffer from slippage in the spline/lockring interface.

-alan

--
Alan Hoyle - - http://www.alanhoyle.com/
"I don't want the world, I just want your half." -TMBG
Get Horizontal, Play Ultimate.