Choosing a new front mech

Hello!

I have a Shimano C051 front mech which has delivered years of sterling
service. It has recently seized up. It is currently soaking up a bit of
WD-40, in preparation for a session with some pliers, but if i can't get
it moving again, i will buy a new mech.

I have an aluminium-framed mountain bike a few years old, so i assume it's
a 34.9 mm tube (but i'll measure it, i promise). It's top-pull. I have a
slightly odd 24-38-48 triple on the front, and nine sprockets at the back.
How much of that, and what else, do i need to consider to make sure i get
something compatible?

Beyond compatibility, what's good?

I'm considering buying another super-cheap C051, since the old one worked
flawlessly for years. However, it did rust like crazy (although this
didn't seem to stop it working), so something with less uncoated mild
steel, or better protection against roadfilth, would be nice. Also, i've
had a hell of a time adjusting it to shift properly, i think because i
have such a wide range on the chainrings. Would a different mech deal with
this better?

Thanks,
tom

--
If you're on a Mac or something wack like that I don't know what the
hell you should do. Try clicking on some **** or somethin'. -- MC Hawking

On Feb 20, 8:01*pm, Tom Anderson wrote:
Hello!

I have a Shimano C051 front mech which has delivered years of sterling
service. It has recently seized up. It is currently soaking up a bit of
WD-40, in preparation for a session with some pliers, but if i can't get
it moving again, i will buy a new mech.

I have an aluminium-framed mountain bike a few years old, so i assume it's
a 34.9 mm tube (but i'll measure it, i promise). It's top-pull. I have a
slightly odd 24-38-48 triple on the front, and nine sprockets at the back..
How much of that, and what else, do i need to consider to make sure i get
something compatible?

Beyond compatibility, what's good?

Don't trust the figures, get a positive recommendation for your
combination. I expect that if you leave that old mech soaking in
paraffin, that by the time you find the mech with the positive
recommendation, that the old mech will have free'd up. Hit it with a
hammer in appriopriate places to encourage it after a couple of days.
A new cable is probably in order though.



I'm considering buying another super-cheap C051, since the old one worked
flawlessly for years. However, it did rust like crazy (although this
didn't seem to stop it working), so something with less uncoated mild
steel, or better protection against roadfilth, would be nice. Also, i've
had a hell of a time adjusting it to shift properly, i think because i
have such a wide range on the chainrings. Would a different mech deal with
this better?

Thanks,
tom

--
If you're on a Mac or something wack like that I don't know what the
hell you should do. Try clicking on some **** or somethin'. -- MC Hawking

On Mon, 21 Feb 2011, thirty-six wrote:

On Feb 20, 8:01*pm, Tom Anderson wrote:

I have a Shimano C051 front mech which has delivered years of sterling
service. It has recently seized up. It is currently soaking up a bit of
WD-40, in preparation for a session with some pliers, but if i can't get
it moving again, i will buy a new mech.

I have an aluminium-framed mountain bike a few years old, so i assume it's
a 34.9 mm tube (but i'll measure it, i promise). It's top-pull. I have a
slightly odd 24-38-48 triple on the front, and nine sprockets at the back.
How much of that, and what else, do i need to consider to make sure i get
something compatible?

Beyond compatibility, what's good?

Don't trust the figures, get a positive recommendation for your
combination.

Good idea. I await with bated breath!

I expect that if you leave that old mech soaking in paraffin, that by
the time you find the mech with the positive recommendation, that the
old mech will have free'd up. Hit it with a hammer in appriopriate
places to encourage it after a couple of days. A new cable is probably
in order though.

In my case, it was Green Gunk degreaser then WD-40 rather than paraffin,
and a pair of pliers rather than a hammer, but it is indeed moving again,
and back on the bike. I've managed to mount it in such a way that it won't
actually shift the chain, but still, progress.

I'm still interested in learning what i need to learn to buy a new one,
though, since the day i need to do can't be far off.

tom

--
sh(1) was the first MOO