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#71
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
On Sat, 09 Dec 2017 19:58:49 -0600, Tim McNamara
wrote: On Sat, 9 Dec 2017 15:40:16 -0800 (PST), Oculus Lights wrote: Yes, your posts sound like promos because they are. That's simple enough. You have a vested interest in believing in and promoting the superiority of your product versus all others. That doesn't necessarily make you inaccurate, just biased. With only one battery change at a 6.5 hour burn time bright with beam wide and even enough to win a World 24 Hour Time Trial Championship on, and 36 hour burn time for climbing and extra long distance touring, Oculus makes it well worth revisiting and reconsidering if the reasons given by generator aficionados still hold water. The problem is noted by yourself right above. "With one battery change at 6.5 hour burn time." I don't want to have to carry an extra battery with me and then change it partway through my ride. With my generators I always have lights on my bike, so I can be spur of the moment on my planning. If I am out for a ride, stop and a friend's house and they invite me to stay for dinner I can do so and ride home in the dark. But if I left the house with the battery still on the charger, thinking I was going out just for a day ride, then my options are sometimes limited. The piece that you and Steven don't seem to get is that "good enough" is good enough. Better than "good enough" rapidly becomes multiple redundancy and enters diminishing returns. I don't need a beam suitable for going 100 miles an hour because I never will go that fast on my bike. But I descended on unfamiliar roads with my old halogen setup at 25 mph; I could descend faster with my current LED light and expect that will be even more true with the incoming eDelux II. When is enough enough? When one succeeds in recreating daylight? Fiat Lux! Damn, probably 50 years ago I rode back and forth to work with a bottle generator and a headlight with an incandescent light bulb. And, part of the ride was across small "dikes"perhaps 10 - 12 inches wide that divided a rice paddy. Slipping off the path there ended up with the cyclist being knee deep in very smelly sludge. Amazingly I rode that bike nearly every day for a year or so and never had a problem. -- Cheers, John B. |
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#72
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
John B. wrote:
On Sat, 09 Dec 2017 19:41:16 -0600, Tim McNamara wrote: On Sat, 9 Dec 2017 10:34:13 +0100, Sepp Ruf wrote: Because you generally want to shield from a flattish \ line of approaching lights, but not shield your view to the sides, the flatter brims work better. We're talking about cycling caps, not baseball caps. A cycling cap bill's curve would shade the center of the field of view while allowing peripheral vision. True. Just use what works best for you, short of Yehuda Moon style. Our beloved champions aren't strict either, at least after a bad (styrofoam) hair day: https://ekz-crosstour.ch/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/RSP_1321-1024x682.jpg Just like the curved cutoff in the awful OculuStvzo engineering sample doesn't work... There's no equivalence between the shape of the brim and the shape of the cutoff. The cutoff is designed to manage outgoing light, keeping it where it is useful and not shining it where it is not. Not functionally equivalent, of course. You did see the video he linked? There are only two choices with a reversed crescent cutoff: Either aim it low enough that it does not glare directly opposing traffic, or aim it high enough to keep the 90 and 270 degree fields of vision for fast curves. black-tinted rear window; auto-dimming mirrors; manure-spreading trailer. I have an auto-dimming mirror in my new car. It verges on useless as it does not dim anywhere near enough. I'd rather have a manual mirror so that I don't have to reach up and point the damned mirror at the ceiling so that I'm not blinded by the vehicle behind me. My wife's small Honda has a manual tab on the bottom of the mirror. Flick it with your finger and the "guy behind"'s lights are focused on the ceiling :-) Still leaves the side mirrors vulnerable. Okay, so the trailer will need to be wide enough to block the view, but not as wide as to require the mounting of extra side mirrors on the Honda. |
#73
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 5:58:56 PM UTC-8, Tim McNamara wrote:
On Sat, 9 Dec 2017 15:40:16 -0800 (PST), Oculus Lights wrote: Yes, your posts sound like promos because they are. That's simple enough. You have a vested interest in believing in and promoting the superiority of your product versus all others. That doesn't necessarily make you inaccurate, just biased. With only one battery change at a 6.5 hour burn time bright with beam wide and even enough to win a World 24 Hour Time Trial Championship on, and 36 hour burn time for climbing and extra long distance touring, Oculus makes it well worth revisiting and reconsidering if the reasons given by generator aficionados still hold water. The problem is noted by yourself right above. "With one battery change at 6.5 hour burn time." I don't want to have to carry an extra battery with me and then change it partway through my ride. During the summer 6.5 hours is all night -- and that's at full output. He says 36 hours "climbing" and long distance touring, which is code for "going slowly." The output is probably a few hundred lumens or less. I leave it to those who own the property to judge its quality and value, but those numbers are more than I've ever needed. I do like the convenience of not having to charge, and battery life is always over-stated and diminishes over time anyway, but if you could get those numbers in real life, that's more than 99.9% of people need -- and you can use it on more than one bike. -- Jay Beattie. |
#74
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 10:50:27 +0700, John B wrote:
On Sat, 09 Dec 2017 19:41:16 -0600, Tim McNamara wrote: On Sat, 9 Dec 2017 10:34:13 +0100, Sepp Ruf wrote: black-tinted rear window; auto-dimming mirrors; manure-spreading trailer. I have an auto-dimming mirror in my new car. It verges on useless as it does not dim anywhere near enough. I'd rather have a manual mirror so that I don't have to reach up and point the damned mirror at the ceiling so that I'm not blinded by the vehicle behind me. My wife's small Honda has a manual tab on the bottom of the mirror. Flick it with your finger and the "guy behind"'s lights are focused on the ceiling :-) Yep, like every car I have owned before this one. Self-dimming mirrors strike me as a solution is search of a problem. Self-dimming side mirrors are also an option; those might actually be useful since the glare from those is more problematic to me than the mirror inside the car. |
#75
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 12:30:16 +0100, Sepp Ruf
wrote: John B. wrote: On Sat, 09 Dec 2017 19:41:16 -0600, Tim McNamara wrote: On Sat, 9 Dec 2017 10:34:13 +0100, Sepp Ruf wrote: Because you generally want to shield from a flattish \ line of approaching lights, but not shield your view to the sides, the flatter brims work better. We're talking about cycling caps, not baseball caps. A cycling cap bill's curve would shade the center of the field of view while allowing peripheral vision. True. Just use what works best for you, short of Yehuda Moon style. LOL. Just like the curved cutoff in the awful OculuStvzo engineering sample doesn't work... There's no equivalence between the shape of the brim and the shape of the cutoff. The cutoff is designed to manage outgoing light, keeping it where it is useful and not shining it where it is not. Not functionally equivalent, of course. You did see the video he linked? I did not, having no interest in or need for his product. There are only two choices with a reversed crescent cutoff: Either aim it low enough that it does not glare directly opposing traffic, or aim it high enough to keep the 90 and 270 degree fields of vision for fast curves. Reversed crescent meaning the arc is oriented with the high point on top or below? black-tinted rear window; auto-dimming mirrors; manure-spreading trailer. I have an auto-dimming mirror in my new car. It verges on useless as it does not dim anywhere near enough. I'd rather have a manual mirror so that I don't have to reach up and point the damned mirror at the ceiling so that I'm not blinded by the vehicle behind me. My wife's small Honda has a manual tab on the bottom of the mirror. Flick it with your finger and the "guy behind"'s lights are focused on the ceiling :-) Still leaves the side mirrors vulnerable. Okay, so the trailer will need to be wide enough to block the view, but not as wide as to require the mounting of extra side mirrors on the Honda. |
#76
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 10:58:56 +0700, John B wrote:
On Sat, 09 Dec 2017 19:58:49 -0600, Tim McNamara wrote: The piece that you and Steven don't seem to get is that "good enough" is good enough. Better than "good enough" rapidly becomes multiple redundancy and enters diminishing returns. I don't need a beam suitable for going 100 miles an hour because I never will go that fast on my bike. But I descended on unfamiliar roads with my old halogen setup at 25 mph; I could descend faster with my current LED light and expect that will be even more true with the incoming eDelux II. When is enough enough? When one succeeds in recreating daylight? Fiat Lux! Damn, probably 50 years ago I rode back and forth to work with a bottle generator and a headlight with an incandescent light bulb. And, part of the ride was across small "dikes"perhaps 10 - 12 inches wide that divided a rice paddy. Slipping off the path there ended up with the cyclist being knee deep in very smelly sludge. Amazingly I rode that bike nearly every day for a year or so and never had a problem. I'd have probably ended up in the rice paddy in broad daylight. ;-) |
#77
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 07:01:57 -0800 (PST), jbeattie
wrote: On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 5:58:56 PM UTC-8, Tim McNamara wrote: The problem is noted by yourself right above. "With one battery change at 6.5 hour burn time." I don't want to have to carry an extra battery with me and then change it partway through my ride. During the summer 6.5 hours is all night -- and that's at full output. Depending on where you live. About true here in June around the Solstice. He says 36 hours "climbing" and long distance touring, which is code for "going slowly." The output is probably a few hundred lumens or less. I leave it to those who own the property to judge its quality and value, but those numbers are more than I've ever needed. I do like the convenience of not having to charge, and battery life is always over-stated and diminishes over time anyway, but if you could get those numbers in real life, that's more than 99.9% of people need -- and you can use it on more than one bike. Being able to use the same light on different bikes is a legitimate advantage. I have three bikes with generators, two of which (SON hub/eDelux and Velological/eDelux II) were not insignificant investments (the Sanyo BB generator on my commuter was free and the halogen lamp was fairly inexpensive). Even a pretty expensive flashlight and multiple mounts would cost less. Ultimately the purchaser has to decide on cost/benefit. I don't want to have to think about lights and just want them there reliably. I don't care about the small amount of extra weight and have never been a gram counter (at 6'3" and 230 lbs, gram counting is nonsense). The drag of each of these systems is very low to the point of being almost unnoticeable. To me the benefits of generator lights outweigh the costs. The costs of flashlights outweigh the benefits for me. I don't need searingly bright lights and the hassles of having to remember to keep the batteries charged, carry a spare battery in some situatons, switch the light from bike to bike, etc., are unappealing. For other folks the math is different. |
#78
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
Tim McNamara wrote:
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 12:30:16 +0100, Sepp Ruf wrote: Not functionally equivalent, of course. You did see the video he linked? I did not, having no interest in or need for his product. Assuming he actually believes what he's saying, oh well ... I can't remember if I signed an NDA There are only two choices with a reversed crescent cutoff: Either aim it low enough that it does not glare directly opposing traffic, or aim it high enough to keep the 90 and 270 degree fields of vision for fast curves. Reversed crescent meaning the arc is oriented with the high point on top or below? single high point on top. |
#79
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 20:35:37 +0100, Sepp Ruf
wrote: Tim McNamara wrote: There are only two choices with a reversed crescent cutoff: Either aim it low enough that it does not glare directly opposing traffic, or aim it high enough to keep the 90 and 270 degree fields of vision for fast curves. Reversed crescent meaning the arc is oriented with the high point on top or below? single high point on top. Ah. Well, that's the easiest way to do it given a round lens and concave reflector. Having the ends of the crescent be higher, or the top of the beam be flat, would do a better job of illuminating the terrain into which one is turning without blinding those coming towards you. That takes some computer analysis and optical manufacturing nous to be able to do. I don't know if Oculus manufactures their own stuff or assembles off-the-shelf components into their product. The latter is quite common but not universal. |
#80
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 12:30:16 +0100, Sepp Ruf
wrote: John B. wrote: On Sat, 09 Dec 2017 19:41:16 -0600, Tim McNamara wrote: On Sat, 9 Dec 2017 10:34:13 +0100, Sepp Ruf wrote: Because you generally want to shield from a flattish \ line of approaching lights, but not shield your view to the sides, the flatter brims work better. We're talking about cycling caps, not baseball caps. A cycling cap bill's curve would shade the center of the field of view while allowing peripheral vision. True. Just use what works best for you, short of Yehuda Moon style. Our beloved champions aren't strict either, at least after a bad (styrofoam) hair day: https://ekz-crosstour.ch/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/RSP_1321-1024x682.jpg Just like the curved cutoff in the awful OculuStvzo engineering sample doesn't work... There's no equivalence between the shape of the brim and the shape of the cutoff. The cutoff is designed to manage outgoing light, keeping it where it is useful and not shining it where it is not. Not functionally equivalent, of course. You did see the video he linked? There are only two choices with a reversed crescent cutoff: Either aim it low enough that it does not glare directly opposing traffic, or aim it high enough to keep the 90 and 270 degree fields of vision for fast curves. black-tinted rear window; auto-dimming mirrors; manure-spreading trailer. I have an auto-dimming mirror in my new car. It verges on useless as it does not dim anywhere near enough. I'd rather have a manual mirror so that I don't have to reach up and point the damned mirror at the ceiling so that I'm not blinded by the vehicle behind me. My wife's small Honda has a manual tab on the bottom of the mirror. Flick it with your finger and the "guy behind"'s lights are focused on the ceiling :-) Still leaves the side mirrors vulnerable. Okay, so the trailer will need to be wide enough to block the view, but not as wide as to require the mounting of extra side mirrors on the Honda. I'm not sure about side mirrors. I have them on my pickup and my wife's little Honda has them But I don't remember ever having a problem with them. -- Cheers, John B. |
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