|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#91
|
|||
|
|||
Battery Replacement on Lights with Internal Li-Ion Batteries
On 2018-02-11 09:28, sms wrote:
On 2/11/2018 8:19 AM, Joerg wrote: snip Or in my case real electrical systems such as cars had them for decades. Though I was surprised how few cyclists do this and that still holds true today. Most just have blinkers with some tiny AAA cells in there. The designers of those things usually weren't even smart enough to integrate a low-battery warning so I often see riders where the rear light has fizzled to the power of a glowing cigarette tip. Those AAA cell lights are really annoying. My favorite tail light is the CatEye TL-LD1100 which uses two AA cells. It also is one of the few tail lights that still has side-pointing LEDs as well are rear pointing LEDs. Still available from Asia. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/CATEYE-Bike-Bicycle-6-LED-Rear-Tail-Laser-Light-Bike-Back-Red-Light-Safety-Warning-Flashing/434036_32786881487.html. Does it at least have a low-battery warning? -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
Ads |
#92
|
|||
|
|||
Battery Replacement on Lights with Internal Li-Ion Batteries
On 2/11/2018 10:02 AM, Joerg wrote:
That is how I used dynamos in the past and would like to do that again. However, in the US it is hard to find a reasonably priced complete front wheel with a hub dynamo and I don't want to spoke up my own. So it'll have to be a bottle dynamo (rollers went the way of the dinosuars) and then I'd like to try Frank's mode with an O-ring and run it on the brake surface nstead of the tire. If we were ever to move to dynamos in the U.S. it would require that bicycle manufacturers have their dealers offer a dynamo wheel upgrade and light on new bikes at a reasonable price. Spending $200 on a new wheel and another $200 on a decent dynamo light is just not going to happen for almost anyone. Yet the extra cost to a bicycle manufacturer would be small, $50 max for a higher-end SP or Shimano dynamo plus a 200 lumen headlight and a tail light. The shop could mark it up to $100. |
#93
|
|||
|
|||
Battery Replacement on Lights with Internal Li-Ion Batteries
On 2/11/2018 10:03 AM, Joerg wrote:
snip Does it at least have a low-battery warning? Yes, the LEDs get dimmer. |
#94
|
|||
|
|||
Battery Replacement on Lights with Internal Li-Ion Batteries
Joerg wrote:
On 2018-02-11 09:28, sms wrote: On 2/11/2018 8:19 AM, Joerg wrote: snip Or in my case real electrical systems such as cars had them for decades. Though I was surprised how few cyclists do this and that still holds true today. Most just have blinkers with some tiny AAA cells in there. The designers of those things usually weren't even smart enough to integrate a low-battery warning so I often see riders where the rear light has fizzled to the power of a glowing cigarette tip. Those AAA cell lights are really annoying. My favorite tail light is the CatEye TL-LD1100 which uses two AA cells. It also is one of the few tail lights that still has side-pointing LEDs as well are rear pointing LEDs. Still available from Asia. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/CATEYE-Bike-Bicycle-6-LED-Rear-Tail-Laser-Light-Bike-Back-Red-Light-Safety-Warning-Flashing/434036_32786881487.html. Does it at least have a low-battery warning? Sure. There are six red LEDs at the back of the unit. When they get really dim, your battery is low. PS: What is the use of a low battery indicator on a device that is mounted where you can't see it? |
#95
|
|||
|
|||
Battery Replacement on Lights with Internal Li-Ion Batteries
On 2/11/2018 10:55 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-02-10 18:25, John B. wrote: On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 19:25:57 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 2/10/2018 4:03 PM, Joerg wrote: Everyone installing a high-powered LED light on a bicycle, front or rear, should walk towards their lit bike during daylight and then again at night. If the light is annoying, do something about it. I agree with this. But I'd add, before buying high powered LED lights, check out any more ordinary lights you have in a similar way. Have a friend ride your bike as you observe. I've done this many times with friends. Contrary to current myths, you do not need super-powerful lights to be plenty visible. Any headlight that shows the road sufficiently will be perfectly visible to motorists, and taillights need far, far less power to make you safe. I had plenty of opportunity to compare StVZO tail lights versus the over there "illegal" lights such as PDW DangerZone or Radbot. HUGE difference in visibility. Joerg, I don't think anyone disagrees that super-bright, non-compliant, glaring lights make you more visible. Using an aircraft landing light would make you more visible. Using an emergency vehicle light bar http://www.fleetsafety.com/federal-s...led-light-bar/ would make you more visible. What many people are arguing is that your extremes are not necessary and not even appropriate. They are detrimental to other road users, including other cyclists, and their promotion constitutes more fear mongering. You're being no smarter than the asses who always drive their jacked-up pickups with high beams, light bars and fog lights glaring. It's MFFY behavior. A bicyclist does NOT need headlights as bright as those on a 75 mph car, just as he does not need 10 gauge spokes, motorcycle-strength chains, solid flat-proof tires or all the other extreme equipment you call for. - Frank Krygowski |
#96
|
|||
|
|||
Battery Replacement on Lights with Internal Li-Ion Batteries
On 2/11/2018 10:45 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-02-10 16:22, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 2/10/2018 3:54 PM, Joerg wrote: On roads and also in towns where people tend to not pay enough attention to cyclists I ride with full lumens, day or night... I would not ride one mile in traffic without those. We know.Â* "Danger! Danger!" This is a classic example of you falsifying quotes. I wrote, quote "I have installed diffusor lenses so people won't be blinded. I would not ride one mile in traffic without those". Out of courtesy to _others_ and not me. Ever heard of brackets and dots to do a legit snip? And even then you'd have been at tabloid quality. The antecedent of "those" was not clear. But we're still left with the fact that you use "full lumens" day or night. No matter what lenses you're using, that's a "Danger! Danger!" mentality. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#97
|
|||
|
|||
Battery Replacement on Lights with Internal Li-Ion Batteries
On 2/11/2018 11:09 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-02-10 16:57, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 2/10/2018 3:27 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-08 16:50, Frank Krygowski wrote: Then I realized my bottom bracket dynamo had snapped on because of the jolt. It was a near-perfect test of dynamo drag. Riding with it on cost me one mile per hour. Big deal! If you are willing to give up 1mph this easy, fine. I am not and I have found a much better solution. Joerg, your arguments are monuments to inconsistency. You've rhapsodized about stopping to smell the flowers, stopping to pet the dogs and horses, taking time to find a nail and rock for a Flinstone-style chain repair instead of using a chain tool... Yet now, being slowed one mile per hour is somehow critical?? In the valley, yes. As you should have figured out by now riding along major thoroughfares, even if they have bike lanes, is no fun at all for me. I want to get that behind me and the faster the better. Vrooom, vrooom, Diesel stench, yuck. Horses, dogs and so on are not to be met there. They are met on singletrack here in the hills and on MUP in the valley. Even on the long MUP along the American River I am sometimes in a hurry when on an errand run. To sum it up: _I_ want to be the decision maker on how fast the journey goes, not some poorly engineered piece of equipment. So is that the only place you ride?? You give the impression of oh-so-gnarly riding. Once again, your song changes wildly depending on your argument. If you had followed more carefully you'd have know that there are two places I ride a lot: Here in the hills and then down in the Sacramento Valley. As I wrote many times that valley is huge and very flat. Nearly all errand rides have to head in that direction because that's where nearly all stores are. Yes, and you've given photos and videos of hilly off-road trails, and said that your mountain bike has to be super-rugged to survive them, so you've reinforced racks, built stout battery boxes, choose heavy tires etc. because weight doesn't matter to you. Weight indeed does not matter, sturdiness is all that counts for me. So I have modified the MTB and to some extent the road bike (some of our roads wouldn't be considered roads in the east). On the MTB I do not care much if a ride on singletrack takes 15 minutes longer. As happened on Wednesday where I spent 15mins with a horse and then 5mins with another down the trail. Also watched a hawk who did fun aerobatics which is a rare sight. I looked at the time at a particular point where I'd normally barrel through at 1320h and it was already 1335h. So what? When I use the road bike and have to be at a meeting at a particular time that is obviously different. Perhaps you'd make more sense if you took notes on what you've already posted, then reviewed them before the next time you post. Perhaps. No, it would make more sense if you paid more attention to detail. Some of us are not restricted to same old same old when it comes to riding. Some of us have a road bike _and_ an MTB, and they use both kinds of routes. The riding is _very_ different and so is the terrain turf. You might also try to grasp the difference between utility rides and fun rides. Again, you're a marvel of inconsistency. Weight doesn't matter on the mountain bike because it has to be oh so rugged for your oh so gnarly riding, including the off-road expeditions you've described to reach your customers. But dyno drag equivalent to climbing eighteen feet in mile is unthinkable? I was talking about riding 20 mph with the dyno off, 19 mph with it on. You pretend that's a critical difference for you? Over a 20 mile trip, it would amount to three minutes difference. No reasonable person would schedule utility trips so tightly that such tiny margins would be important. If you did, you're going to be in trouble the next time the wind shifts unexpectedly. And wind does shift, Joerg. It shifts as frequently as your arguments. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#98
|
|||
|
|||
Battery Replacement on Lights with Internal Li-Ion Batteries
On 2/11/2018 10:26 AM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-11 09:28, sms wrote: On 2/11/2018 8:19 AM, Joerg wrote: snip Or in my case real electrical systems such as cars had them for decades. Though I was surprised how few cyclists do this and that still holds true today. Most just have blinkers with some tiny AAA cells in there. The designers of those things usually weren't even smart enough to integrate a low-battery warning so I often see riders where the rear light has fizzled to the power of a glowing cigarette tip. Those AAA cell lights are really annoying. My favorite tail light is the CatEye TL-LD1100 which uses two AA cells. It also is one of the few tail lights that still has side-pointing LEDs as well are rear pointing LEDs. Still available from Asia. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/CATEYE-Bike-Bicycle-6-LED-Rear-Tail-Laser-Light-Bike-Back-Red-Light-Safety-Warning-Flashing/434036_32786881487.html. Does it at least have a low-battery warning? Sure. There are six red LEDs at the back of the unit. When they get really dim, your battery is low. LOL, that's what I said. PS: What is the use of a low battery indicator on a device that is mounted where you can't see it? True. Plus sticking a couple of AA cells in your tool bag is not a big deal. Running wires all over the bicycle to power lights from a central power source has its drawbacks. |
#99
|
|||
|
|||
Battery Replacement on Lights with Internal Li-Ion Batteries
On Sunday, February 11, 2018 at 7:55:43 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-02-10 18:25, John B. wrote: On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 19:25:57 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 2/10/2018 4:03 PM, Joerg wrote: Everyone installing a high-powered LED light on a bicycle, front or rear, should walk towards their lit bike during daylight and then again at night. If the light is annoying, do something about it. I agree with this. But I'd add, before buying high powered LED lights, check out any more ordinary lights you have in a similar way. Have a friend ride your bike as you observe. I've done this many times with friends. Contrary to current myths, you do not need super-powerful lights to be plenty visible. Any headlight that shows the road sufficiently will be perfectly visible to motorists, and taillights need far, far less power to make you safe. I had plenty of opportunity to compare StVZO tail lights versus the over there "illegal" lights such as PDW DangerZone or Radbot. HUGE difference in visibility. This was as a motorist in Germany. Since I am also a cyclist I paid particular attention to bicycle equipment because I wanted to know. I also wanted to see if the purchase of some lights from there would make sense since those wouldn't need electronics up front to connect to the 8.4VDC power bus on my bicycles. My conclusion was that it does not. Where is "there"? Are you saying that the PDW light was no good and you need a 8.4VDC tail light? At night, a watt or two is very conspicuous -- except in heavy rainstorms. The most conspicuous light I've every seen was this: https://tinyurl.com/yb5z9ep5 (minus the "beacon lights"). A woman with that jacket was riding east-west, and I was at a stop on a north-south street, and when my light hit her, I was practically blinded -- and it was only a 5-600 lumen light. If you are really concerned about being seen, you should use high-viz and reflectors, but I know that interferes with your super-gnarly cotton outfits. During the day, I always see the high-viz before the lights. -- Jay Beattie. |
#100
|
|||
|
|||
Battery Replacement on Lights with Internal Li-Ion Batteries
On 2/11/2018 3:56 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 11, 2018 at 7:55:43 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-10 18:25, John B. wrote: On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 19:25:57 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 2/10/2018 4:03 PM, Joerg wrote: Everyone installing a high-powered LED light on a bicycle, front or rear, should walk towards their lit bike during daylight and then again at night. If the light is annoying, do something about it. I agree with this. But I'd add, before buying high powered LED lights, check out any more ordinary lights you have in a similar way. Have a friend ride your bike as you observe. I've done this many times with friends. Contrary to current myths, you do not need super-powerful lights to be plenty visible. Any headlight that shows the road sufficiently will be perfectly visible to motorists, and taillights need far, far less power to make you safe. I had plenty of opportunity to compare StVZO tail lights versus the over there "illegal" lights such as PDW DangerZone or Radbot. HUGE difference in visibility. This was as a motorist in Germany. Since I am also a cyclist I paid particular attention to bicycle equipment because I wanted to know. I also wanted to see if the purchase of some lights from there would make sense since those wouldn't need electronics up front to connect to the 8.4VDC power bus on my bicycles. My conclusion was that it does not. Where is "there"? Are you saying that the PDW light was no good and you need a 8.4VDC tail light? At night, a watt or two is very conspicuous -- except in heavy rainstorms. The most conspicuous light I've every seen was this: https://tinyurl.com/yb5z9ep5 (minus the "beacon lights"). A woman with that jacket was riding east-west, and I was at a stop on a north-south street, and when my light hit her, I was practically blinded -- and it was only a 5-600 lumen light. My wife doesn't ride a night nearly as often as I do. She's most likely to do it when we're on vacations somewhere, as transportation to and from a B&B or something similar. But her "normal" (not just cycling) lightweight jacket is by Illuminite. It seems to reflect light very well - not that I consider that necessary. Our bikes have lights and reflectors that are perfectly fine. -- - Frank Krygowski |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Dynamo Lights viz Battery Lights in snow qand slush? | Sir Ridesalot | Techniques | 6 | March 4th 15 10:36 PM |
Cheap lights using CR123 batteries | Tom Anderson | UK | 3 | January 18th 11 02:33 AM |
Rechargable Cells/batteries for Lights | Keiron Kinninmont | Techniques | 8 | December 25th 06 11:58 PM |
Lights without batteries? | Steve Watkin | UK | 9 | May 16th 06 10:04 PM |
Rechargeable batteries with LED lights | David Ward | Techniques | 8 | March 17th 05 03:40 AM |